SurreyJohn

If it is your car, the dealer probably won’t care if you pay for it, so if you want a 22 plate offer to prepay. But you will have to raid your piggy bank, as finance company won’t advance the balance until it is registered. If you don’t want to stump up the money, stop moaning and accept current plate. You seem to be forgetting that once delivered to dealer Skoda might want paying for it without waiting for some arbitrary future date

In UK, the latest car sales figures (December) were just 4.8% for diesel, and 25.5% for pure electric. Petrol car sales were 8 times diesel at 38.7% (other 31% were hybrids and mild hybrids) Skoda UK don’t offer 25% of its UK models as electric, and obviously the under 1 in 21 wanting a diesel are not going to make much difference, so unlikely to be a priority. If they want low CO2, need to be chasing the 5 in 20 wanting electric, but they can’t as haven’t got the production capacity to make the electric vehicles.

If it works some of the time, then try and spray some lubricant (WD40) on the actuator. It might be stiff and not moving easily If problem continues then you need a replacement lock motor

But it is Skoda’s choice to raise the list price above £40k, then offer them at discounts taking price back below £40k. As the tax is based on list price, it is a stupid policy. Especially when there is a waiting list and they have no need to dump unsold stock on brokers.

If you like the current one so much, why are you choosing to get rid of it Surely it’s not worn out and only fit for scrap man yet.

Remember that tyres come in various grades. Anything called Sport or Eco tends to firmer than comfort tyres. Also as a general rule at average UK temperatures all season tyres will be softer than summer tyres.

Be careful if a leaseCo is offering to cancel with no fee and no penalty. They will not be doing this for charitable reasons, probably can lease it to someone else for a higher rate. In other words you are giving up a good rate that is no longer on offer. Don’t try and compare PCP vs Lease costs by simply looking at monthly amounts. Instead add up all monthly payments plus initial payments and deposit, then divide total by number of months. Then add in the PCP balloon payment, and revise your number of months for how long you will keep the car (eg 60 months for 5 years). Then subtract the estimated sales price before dividing by number of months. Compare these average monthly cost. This might sound a faff but monthly amounts (excluding initial and final payments) can mislead.

The problem with WLTP (where W is world) is the tests are at something like +23c, but UK is so far from equator that the test temperature is unrealistic From memory @roottoot is fairly far north in Scotland where the number of days where average daily temperature (day and night) where it hits +23c are probably non existent. The test for battery vehicles needs to have an alternative figure when temperature is 25-30c lower (at about -5c) so guidance on range in winter is given.

@croquemonsieur my 16 inch winter tyres on my Arona are Goodyear ultragrip 9+ seem to wear very slowly, currently on 3rd winter, probably going to be good for another 4 or 5 years For info : Arona (like Kamiq and T-cross) have 215/45 R18 as standard, my winters are 205/60 R16 which have virtually identical outside diameter (3mm difference, or 1.5mm of tread wear)

Depends on the colour of the car, oddly if you pick the black or graphite or anthracite alloys then they often looks better than shiny silver 18s or 19s as whole lot is one colour. Look at the pictures in this brochure. In German schwarz is black, platin is platinum, silber is silver, anthrazit is anthracite, hochglanz is gloss, politert is polished https://www.skoda-auto.de/_doc/c7684484-4438-48a7-a6ed-f3aec77544c1 DCC is just another thing to go wrong, and shock absorbers do not last the life of a car, and will someday need replacing. Active shocks are not cheap to replace.

What, since when can you just invent things for a finance application. Next time I apply I will just make up a salary. I suspect the Finance Company and FCA (regulator) will not be very happy with your dealer in Paisley if they are doing that. I hope they lose their finance license if they are inventing things to get finance agreed

I prefer the 16 inch with 60 profile winter tyres to the 18 inch with 45 profile standard summer tyres on my Arona too. Once I changed back last April I really noticed how roughly the 18s feel in comparison, as they pick up every ripple in poorly laid tarmac which the 16s absorb.

Depends on how big you want your car, maybe a 1 year old Kia Stinger would be a contender

Once you have the sizes your car is homologated with (used to be on tyre pressure chart as indicated by Derbyshirebod), then can either buy aftermarket wheels through a specialist, find them being sold by ebay etc or order new ones from a Skoda retailer. You can sell the existing on usual auction sites. Take a look at this brochure, all the Superb wheels (with their part numbers) are on pages 14-20. It is the German accessories brochure, (but there is no comprehensive UK version) https://www.skoda-auto.de/_doc/c7684484-4438-48a7-a6ed-f3aec77544c1 Once you have your wheels, order new tyres in appropriate size to be fitted (from any UK tyre retailer website). I would suggest getting all season tyres rather than summer tyres, as better in UK climate. Some sites let you order both wheels and tyres, so then you can just jack it up and change each in turn as you would if you had puncture (or you can pay a tyre centre to fit them for you)

If it was a stipulation that it had to be delivered by end of March, is this recorded on both your copy and dealers copy of order. If yes then it has been made a contract of sale. If not (or on best endeavours basis) then it was more an ideal, than actually being required. Even if you have it as a contract requirement, you are still bound by the order until the day the dealer fails to meet the deadline. Therefore unless there is mutual agreement to cancel, if the car arrives during March you have to take it (or pay a cancellation fee, which will be specified in small print). Therefore currently unless the other side agrees to cancel, you potentially will end up with 2 cars if you also buy elsewhere. Really you need to read your order form and contract, or at least the parts on delivery obligations and cancellation reasons/penalties. Also get something in writing from the dealer regarding dates, including screen grab of the current status on the Skoda system. You need to get accurate info, rather than salesman patter embelishing / distorting the truth.

I think you should probably think plus or minus at least 20% on any delivery estimate with all the current uncertainty. Maybe others will suggest different error percentage. Therefore assume 12 months estimate to be 10-14 months. Probably best to assume the worst, and get a surprise if early, rather than be disappointed if it turns up nearer 14 months.

https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/models/enyaq/first-sketches-of-the-enyaq-coupe-iv-elegance-with-tradition/

The bigger wheels (with thinner tyres) might suit a keen driver, but that doesn’t mean it’s better for anyone sitting in the back. If it is a family car (and why buy one of these if it going to be solely used by one person) then you should consider everyone that will be expected to travel in it at some time, from young children to aged parents. The smaller wheels will generally make it more absorbent of poor road surfaces (which seem to exist in certain parts of the country)

If the waiting list is 12 months, also have to consider if you will be as enthusiastic by the time it eventually arrives. Not so much the waiting, but if something else becomes available that you would prefer (from whatever manufacturer), is on sale by the time it arrives, or the world has moved on and it has become uncool to buy anything other than an electric car. This is an example but you will get the idea that 12 months is looking at crystal ball territory

I would hazard a guess that the battery is weak, there tends to be lots of extra electric load (rear window, mirror, seat heaters etc) in winter. Weak batteries seem to cause multiple errors to be flagged. If you have an automatic battery charger, try fully charging the battery. Alternatively take the car for decent run (with as much switched off as possible) to get battery fully charged. However if your battery is 6-7 years old might be easier to just replace it. If you are lucky, few minutes after restart, with battery at full voltage, the errors will have cleared.

Pirelli all season SF2 are available in 235/45 R18 98Y XL with seal inside Michelin cross Climate 2 would be good alternative If you want something with a quieter (69db) rating then there is new Nokia seasonproof I have no personal experience of any of these 3

If your car is worth £22k, and the remainder due on PCP is £13k, and you like your current car, then keep it and pay the balance payment. Seems to be too many software problems (which after 2 years have not been 100% fixed) on the mk4. These are likely to irritate you. What would you gain by changing it whilst current version is glitchy, perhaps a tiny bit of extra refinement, but lot more irritation. Not worth it in my eyes.

Also check the boots on drive shafts, although these tend to produce a screech rather than clunk on full lock if catching and making a noise. The cure is usually to spray some silicon lubricant.

I think you will find the handbook suggests swapping them around. Haven’t bothered to recheck, but it is something like every 8k miles Garages and tyre centres have a vested interest in tyres being worn out, as it gets you in the door. Therefore not the most impartial of sources.

I would never recommend swapping front tyres to rear with only about 2mm of tread as rear could slide out. You don’t really get same problem if have 4 or 5 mm of tread on back. There is also no sense in wearing front tyres down below 3mm whilst having 6.5mm on rear, better to have 5mm all round.