SurreyJohn

The cars service schedule indicator will be date or mileage (whichever comes first). It might be set to variable (max 2 years) but you might reach a mileage limit first. The actual mileage will change depending on how you drive, I think the brochure says can be anything from 9000 to 20000 miles However bear in mind that most service plans are designed for certain mileages, and if what you have been sold is inconsistent with your expected mileage, then possibly mid-sold so need to get a remedy from seller. (Take a look at chart posted earlier, does your plan fit with what is due on that, if not you have been sold wrong plan, as going to have to pay for what isn’t covered, but needed.

My understanding is that the usage until the fault was first reported can be deducted, any time since shouldn’t be deducted if fault is still not fixed. Of course, some may try and pull a fast one, and use date of return, or later attempt at same fix. Which it is why it is important to have evidence of first notification date and insist on any usage deduction stopping on this date.

@Skoolboyerror However if the fault was first reported quite early on, and within the 6 months, but still unable to fix it after multiple goes (and now beyond the 6 months) then it is much easier to still reject. If fault first occurred after the 6 months that’s when your rights are much weaker. Also look through following threads which have lot of info on rejection (especially the post by Kodiaq Sportline) https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/500371-4-weeks-old-car-and-gearbox-fault/?tab=comments#comment-5616869 https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/500276-car-rejected-activated/

Yes, number of sensors vary Basic rear parking sensors normally has 4 on Skoda models If front sensors added then similar at front The corner ones (by wheel arch) at front only part of park assist From memory the rear side ones are also fitted if there is blind spot or cross traffic assist fitted

https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/models/enyaq/new-skoda-enyaq-coupe-rs-iv/

If car has not been locked for production (about 3 weeks before assembly), can usually change options. Does not change position in queue. But if dealer orders another car for you (and keeps your one for someone else) then join end of queue But there are shortages of some parts, if you add option with delays, car will take longer. However opposite might also apply, if you delete something not available, might be earlier (but might be unchanged)

Seems Kamiq isn’t only car to get mechanical winders in rear also on Fabia S spec, and SE comfort spec

Unlike old style bulbs which give off lots of heat, LEDs don’t waste energy by giving off light only. Not really sure why LEDs need ventilation, but the only way you will clear it is to park in a warmish dry garage, or wait until warmer dryer weather in spring.

If it only has 38k miles on a 6 year old car, might be better allocating say £2000 for servicing and repairs (and using the money pot to fix whatever it needs over next 2-3 years), rather than spending thousands more trying to change it during current market turmoil with lack of good secondhand cars.

Just out of interest, how did you manage 10 years ago when cars didn’t have any USB sockets. What are you doing now that needs multiple sockets that you could live without a decade ago.

Yes, a crack can spread. But it might not for months, then suddenly grow. It will all depend on stresses and thermal movement of the glass. Without knowing details, might be possible to have it fixed (using special liquid bond that is invisible when set). But might need replacement glass.

If the car is wallowing and grounding occasionally, then there is also possibility that it is : overloaded tyre pressures wrong have damaged spring or damper shock absorbers need replacing wallowing is soft springs, the Superb is specified more as a limo than a sports car (Sportline trim is a look, doesn’t mean gets sports car handling) If DCC is not fitted, then sport mode only really changes gearbox change up points, has no effect on suspension

The current British Government is not making good rules either, and London is even worse (20mph limits on main roads and buses with ISAs set to 17mph in 20 zones). ISA regulations assumes speed limits are set sensibly.

Maybe the old orders are not profitable enough, certainly less profitable than more recent orders at a higher price, so they just keep being pushed back, with someone hoping they will get cancelled. But no one wants to admit this, and easier to say still awaiting a build date. Could still be in same position in 6 months time (and if look back 6 months, with hindsight, same position then). Logically anyone delayed multiple times is already upset, so pushing it back further is less worse option than delaying someone else’s car and upsetting them as well. This piecemeal sliding of dates seem to be norm with some dealers, saying March-April keeps customer placid because they are too scared to say might be Autumn or 2023 which might be nearer the truth in some cases.

The extended servicing is for long distance cruising when engine is warm, no labouring up hills, or mainly short journeys. You have to remember the system of extended intervals is pampering to fleet users that dispose of a car after certain mileage, and don’t care who picks up subsequent repair bill. Manufacturers also have a vested interest in not making a car that can easily go on for 200,000 miles or 20 years without major failure or worn out engines as it would be harder to sell a replacement. My view is if it is a lease car, or one that will be handed back on PCP, then service at max intervals when car says it needs it, but if you intend to keep it a few years then give it a bit more care and get oil changed more regularly. It’s a bad trade off to save bit on service, but then be broken down on a dark wet night with car needing something like a new turbo. As for the comparison with BMW, Mercedes etc, as a nosey person I often look what brand is stopped on hard shoulder or on back of tow truck on motorway, and these brands seem to make up fair share.

I suggest keeping it on variable, but getting it serviced every year If you switch to fixed, it will suggest a service every 9-11 months Just because in favourable conditions can stretch servicing to every 18,000 miles isn’t a recommendation to do this, especially if you expect the car to remain trouble free for 10 years

DCC is variable electronically controlled shock absorbers. The actual springs are not part of the system (but vehicles fitted with DCC are often lowered by about 1cm, so might not have identical springs as non-DCC cars. You also need to remember that the suspension is a secondary system (cushioning the body from movements of wheels) so is absorbing dips and hollows in roads. It is not the primary system (between road and wheels) so isn’t designed to deal with imperfections in the tarmac. That is handled by the rubber in the tyres. So if where you live roads have billiard table smooth surfaces you can have big wheel rims and thin tyres. But if road surfaces are poor then opt for smaller rims and deeper tyres as they will absorb the small ripples much better. One other thing is shock absorbers usually need changing at intervals (every few years depends on use) and DCC ones are very expensive so factor that in if you intend to keep the car for years.

Could be, and Pirelli P7 summer tyres are known not to like cold rain, with grip falling off in wet below about +10c. Others have reported spinning front wheels with these tyres pulling out of junctions on cold wet mornings (even with 1.0tsi engines) I actually find the P7 are very good summer tyre, but it is not an all year tyre, so you do need to swap to winters Nov-March. Seasonal swapping time does mean would have been able to even out tread depths by refitting in different corner. Hopefully @techsearchuk realises factory fit summer tyres (and handbook indicating should be swapped around) means don’t just use them all year in same corners until one dies. Probably more of a warning to others.

Could be steering alignment. However it does highlight the need to swap the tyres around at intervals. It’s not very helpful having one badly worn tyre, when the same total wear could have been 4mm tread all round. If you have 3mm difference in tread size on same axle, then you have wheels 6mm diameter different. Not going to help car drive in a straight line.

Just be thankful you haven’t ordered a Toyota Land Cruiser, as there is now a 4 year waiting list in Japan https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-60078594

The consumption readout is not a good indicator About 3 years ago I compared normal unleaded with Shell V power 99 for three full tank fulls each. On my then commute in SW London / Surrey border I was getting upto 11% better mileage. (On an Arona with 1.0tsi DSG) Its less on open road, but with people reporting about 4% worse consumption on E10 then suggests difference is now 10-15% in mileage. Therefore with fuel at about £1.42 per litre, it’s a no brainer to choose E5 super unleaded as long as it’s no more than about 14p litre more. (probably nearer 10p / litre more if no city driving)

So to be clear, you could have the service done as while you wait. It is the warranty work they want all day for Slightly misleading thread title as it implies your problem is just with the service, nothing in title about the warranty work you are trying to get done at same time

Buy the best batteries you can, kessy eats batteries as it sends a ping scanning for car in proximity, cheap batteries will only last few weeks, premium ones last nearer 12-15 months Old style push the button to activate key fobs, had batteries that last years

Don’t sign their job completed receipt until they show you the calibration certificate (or at least something that shows it has been done, eg printout from calibration process) Remember these need to be done in a workshop with appropriate test equipment, so can’t be done by a fitter in a van.

I was wondering the same, if you are going to buy a new engine, why not buy the correct one. If proposed engine isn’t new, It doesn’t seem logical to source the vRS diesel then stick a secondhand engine from something less powerful in.