freemansteve

If not fuel cap, then it might be LP feed or return hose damage, or couplings on them. Or possibly the seal on the sender/fuel pump assembly on the top of the tank. There is a big screw-on ring that holds the assembly in the top of the tank. Sniff around the plastic cap that cover the access hole to the tank.

A new base may help (unlikely IMHO, but get a genuine part if you need to) but there are several possible reasons for poor radio reception: - At least some, if not all radios have signal boosters in-line with the coax from the antenna - these can fail. The connectors can also get corroded and reduce signal or become dislodged. - Water ingress can cause shorts or corrosion. - The coax can get damaged. Surprisingly, one user commented that a factory reset of the radio unit fixed their reception issue.

Use a clutch specialist garage or ring round for more sensible local garages. As I said, the most common problem for dragging clutch on early cars is bent or damaged clutch finger springs. Replacing the clutch with the 200mm one (originally from the Polo) is the most favoured solution - see prices here: https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/repair-kit-clutch-complete-10151/skoda/citigo/citigo-2011/15995-1-0

No worries, but different sizes, speed ratings and max loads can mean different characteristics for tyres of apparently the same 'name'.

I genuinely hope you get good service from yours... It's the control electronics and the solenoids that can cause grief, eventually ruining clutches, or refusing to change gear, and it's hard to find anyone who knows how to fix these units. The gearbox itself is fine - being a normal manual box.

Is this not a Citigo part of the forum? The Superb has completely different wheels, tyre sizes and suspension, so there's no real comparison.

ASG? - walk away....

"The cambelt replacement will now be based on mileage as per maintenance schedules." And what is that, or are they still persisting in being evasive and vague.... ?

Yes, you don't see many clutches today that aren't diaphragm clutches on cars - many of the early Citigos/Up!s had problems with the fingers in the diaphragm, apparently.

Good news! One of the features of weak or damaged finger springs is (I'm told) that it can make the mating surfaces non-co-planar, which means that you can effectively rub the mating surfaces down - for a while - but the problem may return. Or you can get debris that make the clutch drag, which can get eroded with a bit of slip. I'm happy it's working, but reply back here in 5K miles with an update!

I think we possibly might rule out the gearbox leaking oil - given it's all gear selections and only when cold, it could be a failing or broken clutch finger springs. It could also be a simple hydraulic problem like a leaking master or slave cylinder, which gets masked as the car heats up..... Do a search on the Up! owners forum; there's a lot of talk of this on there...

Not even that is the same as VW are telling Up! owners.... They make it up as they go along....

I'm not sure, but the bumper may have changed for the facelift, so watch out. If they do fit, go for the lamps with twin H7 bulbs (and LED DRLs) - they are massively better.

There is no holder that is a direct fit into the slot on the dash, other than the original Up!/Citigo/Mii bracker designed for the entirely hopeless Garmin PID. Post-facelift models (>2018??) have a different system designed so that instead of the Garmin PID, you get a bracket that lets you use a smartphone. There has been lots of discussion about mounting phones on the Up! Owners Forum, and pictures of the various possibilities. It can get quite involved, depending on the functionality you need to get (like seeing water temp, fuel MPG, range, integrating phone over Bluetooth to the radio etc). You are probably better off capping off the connector on the dash top (there is a part for this) and just using a phone (or a SatNav) on a windscreen mount, and plugging in to the cigarette lighter.

Not sure of costs, but it will be expensive if you cannot do the work yourself - it involves either cutting out a section & welding in new sheet metal, or doing a new 1/4 panel, plus respray. The problem is that the rust comes through from the inside of the wheel arch. You may be able to argue with Skoda UK about the perforation warranty, but they will tell you all about wanting to see regular (documented) inspections with a dealer, and then suggest that bubbling is not actual perforation, blah blah blah, in their usual war of attrition (they are there to protect the dealer network from owners, after all!). There's more on this on the Up! Owners Club website if you craft some searches. It all depends on how long you want to keep the car before buying another. I suggest if it's more than a year or two, the rust may well get so bad, it'll be hard to sell on after that time. If it's a stop-gap at the right price, go ahead.

Tough call - it'll be expensive to fix properly and will only get worse if you don't.... Point out the problem to the garage selling the car and see if they can do the repair, to get the sale. As mentioned many times, cars without the plastic wheel arch liners (fitted later) are prone to this problem 😞

As per the same post on the Up! forum!

All the wiring is under the dashboard. There should be plastic elbow that fits in the slot (cover plate removed) that holds the Garmin or other GPS. Top Tip: If the original Garmin unit did not come with the car, just don't bother - they are no longer supported and are pretty rubbish. If you need GPS, buy a SatNav or use the phone with off-line maps, and plug into the cigar lighter.

It will save you money, you'll sleep better, and you'll not get a broken leg.

Yes. The air in the cabin is usually warmer and moister than fresh air. Demisting in the winter is also better done with A/C on + fresh air, but it's surprising how many people get that wrong, having never done a proper A-B test!

You'll be lucky to get to chat with any mechanic at a main dealer for something as mundane as brakes! Just find a local independent or and get a quote for a strip-down and check, and for new disks, pads, drums, shoes as required. Do a brake fluid change anyway. A check may reveal other problems, like weeping brake cylinders. The point is that the work you are asking for is total bread-and- butter work for any garage that they do every day of the week. Nothing clever involved. Just ask about the origin of the parts, as they are all going to be pattern parts, and you probably want something manufactured in the EU by a known brand, rather than a fake Chinese part.

I've seen loads of these, but usually on old Land Rovers. At least they don't tend to rock about in the night, given common nocturnal tent fun.... After they've had a few drinks, it's also a lot of fun watching the roof tent occupants brave getting out, to take a leak in the darkness!

I agree with AGF. Also, it's possible that something has come loose in the cigar-lighter style plug for the dash cam, but didn't show up when you tried it on your car - or could be that the sprung centre contact is faulty (really common), OR something metallic like a washer has dropped into the socket (check fuse again).

If that's wrong, will the manufacturer pay thousands if the roof is damaged and needs replacing? Just buy a tiny and ultra-light Quasar tent. Up in a couple of minutes, and far more wind/water/insect proof than any roof tent.... Saves fuel, and less to get damaged/stolen than something on the roof....

A local dealer will give you the service history. Cambelts rarely need changing on Up/Citigo - there's lots of disinformation on this "out there", just to make a quick buck.