freemansteve

Why would a Skoda version of a large previous-generation Audi be similar to a Citigo?

Yes. So long as the wiring is still in the housing, just buy the right mirror, pull off all the old stuff, connect and clip on new mirror. Sounds like the body shop was sloppy to me.

I think its "1s0959263a" like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185582596318 may be cheaper elsewhere. This may help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WOpxgh0Z5TE

Great, but be aware, you could only see rust because it had gone through the steel panel from the inside to the outside. If any rust is left in the steel material of that panel, even microscopically, it has a good chance to come through again, sealant or not. I'm sure everyone knows this, but in the end, if the rust can be kept at bay until EOL of the car, or one's ownership of it, then it's "mission accomplished"

Some washer fluids can contain silicates and other stuff, that can cause deposits to harden on the jets. Air won't remove this stuff, but sometimes a fine needle can. Or as said buy some new ones, but it may be better to for an OEM part.

It's not condensation. The usual causes of water ingress on these cars are blocked drain holes, or on some early cars, unsealed bulkheads.

No rubber timing belts on Citigo engines, but we know what was meant Given the disaster of the "cam-belt in oil" designs in various other engines, it has made people rightly wary (Citigo has a dry belt). Post-facelift cars have lots of improvements, not least a better gearbox and wheel-arch liners on later models - I get it may be out of budget, but I'd go for these even with a higher mileage. Higher mileage is meaningless compared with usage pattern - 40k miles of mostly motorway cruising may lead to a much better car than one with 20k short-distance, stop-start driving. Hard to tell how a car has been used though. You have judge these things on a test drive - varying roads (fast/slow, bendy), some full throttle and max revs runs (these engines are surprisingly sweet if in good nick).... As for electronics, very little new stuff on the latest of the Citigos compared with early ones - the "useless junk" was mostly fitted to later Up! GTI models.

Citigo/Up/Mii was a slightly shrunken Fabia platform I believe and there are various interchangeable parts. Most people who go to Fabias just need a bit more space; they are very similar cars... I reckon at current used prices it's good value at £2400. Check for rust around the fuel filler on the rear quarter, but it's not a show-stopper.

You don't lose any settings on Citigo, AFAICT....

What is the memory saver for?

The fuses look splendid, but you can't tell if any have blown without pulling them out and looking. Someone here will be able to give you a picture of the fuse layout for a 2014 car (they vary by year and model), or tell you which numbered fuses are for DRLs..... The fusebox lid usually has the legend for layout. My bet is that 2 fuses would be involved for both DRLs, and if so, it seems a coincidence that both would blow. Are you sure the actual DRL bulbs have not failed (albeit a coincidence again)?

Zero reports of this for Up!/Citigo/Mii on the massively larger Up! Owner's Club site..... I note "lpt100" has an Octavia, not a Citigo, at least as the profile info says, so is this just a feature of his Octavia? (I did 260K miles in two of them with zero defects)... Sounds like "I'm confused by completely different cars"

What vent? AFAIK it's an ultrasonically-welded plastic unit, and unless the seams have failed between the various parts, the only other way in or out for moisture is the via the rubber bungs over the bulb holders. Assuming the rubber bits have not been disturbed and are in good nick (a smear of silicon grease may help seal them), then the headlamp has a failed joint somewhere, and you may as well get one from a breaker's or buy a new one.

Allowed the wheels to cool? You mean they were more than slightly warm? If "hot", get the tracking or alignment checked.

There is no 'protection' to remove, like a code in the radio, but a change of radio will need it to be enabled in the ECU with software tools. There is a CANbus data exchange to verify the radio's unique ID is right for a given car. My 2019 SEL came with DAB enabled, but I recall being told by the dealer that if I bought a different Citigo, DAB could be enabled on that too. I assume it depends on whether the current radio has the DAB socket on the rear for DAB part of the antenna - worth a quick look before buying anything. Not sure if all models have the same antenna though - but I assumed they did, given what I was told by the dealer....

High CO (only) reading sounds like the cat not performing. High HC would imply fuelling is rich. Did you fit VW/Skoda-supplied lambda sensors? "Compatible" ones often are not. Could be a temperature sensor not 100% but not being picked up as an error. If the ECU thinks the engine is cold, it may not adjust mixture correctly. It could also be a problem with one or more fuel injectors, or even coil-packs....

You can use almost any wheel size and keep the rolling radius of the tyre about the same - with the right choice of tyre. Check an on-line tyre chart.

The GTI has far fewer options for wheels less than 17", as it has bigger brake calipers and disks. There are 16" wheels that fit - check on the Up! Owner's Forum; tons of info there. A lot of GTi owners change to 16" to reduce the pothole issues, and improve ride comfort.

Was it an Up/Citigo with ABS-based TPMS? And what happened when you reset it? My spare wheel (OEM) is a definitely a slightly different rolling radius to the other three tyres, and I have had occasion to use it. It triggers the TPMS system from the off, but resetting makes it work fine - no warnings.

You can de-badge the existing tailgate. Why add extra weight with the glass one?

Consider changing the main battery, if it is old. There's a well-documented effect on various electronic systems with batteries that start the car but drop volts in the process, disrupting electronic power-up and CAN signals for a short period. I didn't know that any Up/Citigo radios required a code - I thought is was CANbus these days....

They don't need to all be the same size. For example, the fronts are often higher pressure, and have a greater rolling diameter than the rears. Similarly if you change one damaged tyre for a new one, it also won't be the same size, but won't trigger a warming if you reset TPMS.. Once it is reset, it's the change that is detected, if a tyre deflates. My money is on a flaky ABS sensor or (less likely) steering angle sensor (or possibly wheel alignment?)

Maybe, but the bulb should be at half brightness when the headlights are on. Hence we need the "truth table" of all the switch positions and bulb brightness results. But why not try a new bulb? It's cheap enough....

I think you need to stop the car, turn off the engine, then turn on ignition, then press the reset for it to "take", but if this has been done, one of the ABS sensors is going dodgy. There should however be an error code for this. If not, there may be a fault with the steering angle sensor, which may need a reset, but which may not always report an error.

Does your car have DRLs - it probably does? i.e the front "sidelights" being on all the time with ignition on? Twin filament bulbs - on DRLs should be the bright filament, on sidelights should be the same (but tail light are on too), but when using headlights, the dimmer filament should be on (and the same with parking lights, both sides but with L or R selectable using the indicator stalk). Please post results for all combinations to help pinpoint the fault....