freemansteve

There is a switch (possibly magnetic, like the other doors) in the hatch to indicate if the tailgate is open or closed. I'd locate it and check it. Is the boot light on all the time too?

After checking the light switch, the ignition switch is next to check - it's a common failure point. Here's the reversing light switch:

- A/C compressor is driven by the engine, but the fan does use electrical power, more so, should you turn it up higher. - It's normal on modern cars for there to be higher static battery drain - things like remote door locks need to have a receiver listening for a signal, and possibly some other electronics are running. Thus, cars left undriven for weeks, really do need charging (or driving!) - Batteries that are usually used on cars with smart alternators (almost all cars now) and stop start-systems are often coded because the cars computer makes a guess about the age of the battery, and number of starts if has done, in order to allow fewer stop-start cycles as the battery ages, and may choose to turn the smart alternator on a bit more often. Putting in a new code with a new battery tells the system the battery is new, or has slightly different characteristics for optimized smart charging. - Battery voltage is not a perfect guide for understanding its true condition - sure, if a battery under zero load presents 12.7V or more (+/- some), it's probably going to start the car. It is a well-known thing that even if the battery cranks the engine, the voltage presented to the electronics can drop to a level so that the electronics malfunction and the car may not start, and even weird faults show up, like the radio thinking it has been rejected by the ECU. This is common on Up!/Citigo models, being a budget car - the electronics don't use an Up/Down DC-DC converter to keep a minimum voltage applied to the supply to the electronics (with a DC-DC converter, even say 8V would be converted to the necessary 12V). Anyone with caravan/MH leisure batteries knows why Up-Down DC-DC is needed! - Last point - don't disconnect the battery voltage sensor. It's a false saving on reducing battery wear with stop-start - you use far more costly fuel over time, than the value of the marginal "life elongation" of the battery. Besides, Up/Citogo engines are very easy starters, and a very low-load on the battery by design...

I've always pressed the clutch to start, even with new cars. Makes a lot of sense to spin as little mass as possible, but also means a smooth engagement of reverse gear every time (no spinning gears/shafts). Not to mention when someone has nudged the gear lever, and you not seeing it until the car bucks! With other problems, like Safe Lock (which can be turned off if you don't want the car to deploy deadlocks) or a gear indicator which most people would only notice if staring at the dash instead of the road, these are quite trivial (IMHO) - so a really basic car from 60's is the thing to go for! But it may keep you busy fixing it every 2nd day....

On the pedal.

Any grease at hand is fine for the parts in the pic....

Shocks are probably fine, as far as that goes, as all Up!/Citigo variants are well-known for poor quality shocks (often branded Monroe) that rattle and rumble. If you do fancy some new ones, get a proper brand like Bilstein, Koni etc. Much discussed on the Up Owners Forum. As for creaking, unless the bush has rotted, silicone should be fine, but best if you unbolt, clean and then lube with silicone. It could be a different bush though, and the action of jacking the car up moved the problem bush slightly, but the car has settled again. Try spraying the other bushes. Also, it's common to find the rear suspension top mounts over-tightened, and they can creak under the big washers.

Indeed - the wheel arch liners are a must, but the mudflaps don't really help much.

Get someone to waggle the gear lever, while you try to look at where the cables terminate on top of the gearbox. It could be an obstruction or a problem with one of the cables. If nothing obvious, you'll have to pop the cables off the yoke (I will post a pic of this if you want to take it on). Then take a look at the shift mechanism:

https://hitchhikers.fandom.com/wiki/Towel

The advice in "Hitch Hiker's Guide to the Galaxy" is to always carry a towel. The towel has many uses, including throwing over the lower rear tailgate aperture. It saves you from scratching up a new plastic cover, if fitted.

Don't do it yourself - first off, you probably have a leak from an old seal or pipe junction, or damage to the radiator, which is why you lost refrigerant. This needs checking before you blow more gases into the atmosphere. Second, you need to be sure you have the refrigerant/oil mix right. Third, you probably need a new desiccator to be fitted.

Possibly earth continuity, but if not fuses, it could be the BCM is detecting over-current, and turning off the circuit. Test to see if the lights come back on if you disconnect all the stuff added.....

Could be ignition switch. A common-ish failure.... It's part of the steering lock/ign key but will not require new barrel etc. Read more on the Up! Owners Club.

Here's one from a 2019 Citigo SE-L - are these the buttons you were thinking of? Standard leather, too. I'm sure the airbag is compatible with yours, but one off say, a Rapide, may not, as the car interior is larger, so the bag may be a different volume. Some ECU coding may be needed, but I don't know if the wiring loom is present on yours. I'd check out a few breakers for a suitable steering wheel...

They would be non-OEM seats on a Citigo/Up, but you may be able to adapt them to fit the exiting runners. Make sure you also adapt them for seat heating, seatbelt sensor and side-airbags and - if you don't, the latter will affect your insurance cover, being safety related.

19 is central locking. Look at 6, I think.

You won't see the wedge. 'Poking' won't do anything - you have to lever the wedge up to slacken tension, using the hole in the drum as a a pivot.

Ask yourself - "how often is air in the cabin colder than outside air when you get in the car?"

Just spraying stuff in slots or whatever will be a very bad idea... You'll need to find out what the problem is first, to work out a solution, and removing the radio is, I think, the fits step. There will probably be a bowden cable that links the lever to the flap.....

But I'm not stating any facts, I'm suggesting it needs more investigation.

All these jobs are easy, but changing the car to left-hand drive is not. I'd sell the car here and buy locally in Germany. I'm sure some EU countries won't even let you re-register a used RHD car, and many have all sorts a taxes on self-imported cars (Italy I know does) - be very sure before you start messing with the car, and don't believe what some bloke from the pub reckons is the correct procedure.....

"Citigo had energy recuperation"... Yes is does, and AFAIK all cars with smart alternators do. When come off the throttle, the alternator kicks in (depending battery charge state), and uses some of the car's kinetic energy to charge, hence "energy recuperation". As soon as you back on the throttle, the alternator is turned off, but will periodically start up to keep the battery at 80% or similar level. A great feature, but it really messes with caravan owners, who largely don't understand why leisure batteries don't charged on older caravans lacking DC-DC converters!

try spraying a load of silicone into the lock. It sounds like there is an internal locking tab that is sticking or somehow not catching (or something has broken)