ChoonDoode

He's got a 230, so 340mm single pots at the front. @TMac88 is there a reason you're wishing to upgrade the rears? Looks or better braking?

aaah right, it's above 150 which is IRS

IIRC 150hp and up is IRS and sub 150hp is a torsion beam

Anything CV related I'd have thought it would be all the time as it's always moving when the wheel is When you say noise, what best describes it? Whirring?

Yeah, the app control would only be of advantage if you had a tuning box. When you get the pedal box, you can easily route it into the little glovebox by your right knee for ease of hiding and controlling. Quite often I drive with mine in eco / comfort which is the green light. I find that is the best for your daily driving. The sport mode (orange) does give you a bit more of an instant acceleration so is good for a razz. Sports + mode (red) I find to make the accelerator a bit severe. You so much as touch the accelerator and you're flung back in your seat. Never found the + and - buttons to do much however.

I bought a bleeder kit for the bike and they are worth it

Yeah mines the same. 3 on the top and the other 4 on the bottom row Can't understand why they don't bunch them rather than leaving them spaced out

It appears to be the latest thing by a lot of car brands; we're not making as much on new car sales, so let's make up for it in the after-sales. And using things like brake fluid to make you think 'god what happens if it fails and I've my family in the car?!?!!'. If there was an issue with the brake fluid, you'd know. I didn't bleed my brakes properly on my track bike when I was faffing with braided lines and the lever did nothing; no feeling of resistance when pulling it nor any real stopping power. That was a fairly instant thing to see, but if you're brake fluid was contaminated to such an extent so quickly, you've a bigger issue. A little while ago, BMW started to charge an absolute fortune for their services and only after receiving low scores from all sorts of places have they realised you can't start charging people extortionate amounts for things which don't need replacing as often as they were making out.

Yeah, checked through the paperwork and it's been checked, but not changed. Peddle feels fine and the car stops when asked to

@bajabugsteve is it Johnsons on Derby Road you're taking your car? I've never had the brake fluid changed on my car and it's just over 4 years old. Might be to do with my car's lower mileage I'm not sure. It says £60 on skoda's service section on their website.

I assume a lot of your mileage has been done on the motorway and if that's the case, the clutch isn't touched. It's the constant stop start and slow moving traffic when the clutch is subjected to wear and tear. I can't see a remap affecting the clutch, the increase in torque isn't going to be dramatic enough for the car to start failing to pieces. 320nm is the stock figure on a 2.0 150hp and that's around the remap figure I've seen having a quick google. It would be interesting to see your DPF levels is at the moment given the current mileage you have.

Only thing with LED bulbs is they're not ECE certified. LED headlights on brand new cars are the whole unit. So if they fail, you have to replace the entire unit. Depending on the bulb, the beam pattern might not be right. MOT's get failed all the time in the UK. If your car is being re-registered in the Netherlands, I'd imagine it will be similar to the tests cars in blighty have to do. Probably won't be as strict as it is a car sold on the continent. You wouldn't be able to installed LED headlight units, because they're for the FL model and as previously mentioned, the xenon units need washers. Halogen bulbs are your best bet. Get a decent set (I've always used Osram) and you won't need to do anything else

Depending on the lumens rating of the LED would determine whether you need washers. Sub 2000 lumens and you don't. You'd need to find the rating for these headlights. @JD85 I'd just throw a pair of LHD halogens in and then you're guaranteed all to work and to be legal. Last thing you need is Dutch plod giving your car the once over, as a RHD car with Dutch plates will look out of place.

i want to do a few more things like - upgrade cornering fogs to LEDs (what bulbs and how many do i need to order?) H16, 2 per side. They're the JDM H16's not the EU H16's surprisingly. You can get H8's to fit though - front honeycomb grille (do i need to order just the grille from superskoda or a replacement surround as well?) They are separate bits IIRC - does the petrol vrs need a replacement timing chain/waterpump at this age/mileage? I think it's the same as the diesels 5 year or however many miles (service page on skoda's website will say) - should i get the intake manifold checked for sludge buildup/+- cleaned unless you've a concern something is wrong, leave well alone

darkside development, barnsley Be just up the M1 for you

I find, whilst the tyres may play a role in the noise, it's ultimately the road surface which determines the sound. They resurfaced our top road with proper tarmac rather than that chipping guff (which was the reason they were resurfacing it because that had disintegrated) and it's almost silent driving over it. The main sound is the engine noise.

I had it put on my car because I wanted all the bells and whistles, but it does prove a useful feature to have. In some car parks, those stupid little bollards can be misinterpreted by the sensors, but you can see them clearly in the camera when they go out the sight of your mirrors.

@SashaGrace how that's a demo video and a half Have you plumbed in the washer?

I suppose the camera to use would depend on what you want to be able to see with it. I've the lowline camera and it just shows the picture behind with the green, amber and red box. However, the box doesn't move with the steering wheel angle. No big shakes. The highline camera moves the box with the steering wheel angle. Think there are a couple of other features it does. Also, if you have a towbar, the highline camera can do the trailer park assist (IIRC). That's not a problem for me because my trailer is easy to reverse and if needs be, it's light enough to be pushed by hand

@themanwithnoaim I watch their youtube channel with their project cars and their knowledge is amazing. When I've the money, I do aim to get my car remapped by them

Now this is your stereotypical case of 'the devil makes work for ideal hands'........ and it appears to have gone sideways. After a while of thinking to do it, I've finally fitted an aftermarket dogbone mount bush; a Powerflex Front Lower Engine Mount Hybrid Bush (Large) PFF85-833BLK to be precise. I chose the black series just to get the 'best' I suppose, but I don't know if that's the root of the problem with it being more track orientated. Unless I've fitted it incorrectly and or bought the wrong one, it's vibrating like a right beepity beep. When you have the car idling, there's a little bit of an additional hum, but I was expecting that. The main issue appears when you go to move away and when the revs are between 1 and 1.5k, there is an almighty vibration which goes through the whole car. I drove the car up my close and the vibrations go away completely when you're over 1.75k. I've had the car back on the ramps to make sure I've not done a schoolboy error and forgotten to tighten it all up, but everything is as tight as it's recommended (I don't want to tighten it any more in case I break something) Now I had to go to work this morning (slightly knobbled car or not) and I was able to check it going through the gears properly, even up the motorway. Once your moving, it's fine. As is accelerating (which actually feels better). But go into the above rev range and it's god awful. I understand the rubber mounts are deliberately designed to get rid of any harshness, but deary me, if this is what a poly bush feels like, I've well and truly made a mistake fitting this. I'm at a bit of a loss because I had to 'chop' the old one out. Help. Advise. Please 😢