ChoonDoode

sound happy days, I'll get one of those on order. Cheers

@Ecomatt @T07 thank you for confirming. I thought from my research it was the same, but just wanted to double check. Did it come with the screws to hold it in, or are they a separate purchase? Doesn't say on the parts sheet. thanks

A good use of existing space. Only question would be where are the tools for changing the wheel now?

Yeah I've already done those. I put pictures up on one of my other threads, but they've disappeared. And yeah, the grill I mentioned in the first post is that one underneath the air filter. I'm just wanting now to make the blocking on the driver's side permanent as it's only blocked of with tape. The amount which I've used does mean it's secure, but a proper job is what I'm after. That's why I'm trying to verify the blanking plate is the same for both TFSI and TDI intakes.

It was, but that's what I've blocked off. I've measured the coolant and oil temperatures on a few runs and at no point have they ever gone excessive. I had it on the graphing and you could see when I'd driven fast because the water temperature would rise slightly, along with the oil temperature. The fan would kick in and bring the coolant temp down back to around 90-95 degrees and the oil temperature was sitting around 110 - 115 degrees for the length of time I was 'driving quickly'. When the speeds reduced, the oil temperature reduced back to around 95 degrees and stayed constant for the 'cool down' part of the drive. I don't feel it's problematic having it blanked off. Otherwise why would they sell a blanking plate?

I've never really considered that to be an issue because I've not cut out any of the front grill, so there is still protection from the majority of the rain. I've driven through a few downpours on the motorway and I've never felt anything amiss in how the car has felt. Also, the potential quantity of water potentially getting into the engine doesn't concern me because A, it wouldn't be a constant stream and B, by the time it's gone through the filter, the intake system, the turbo, the intercooler and then into the cylinder, it will be in such a low quantity I wouldn't see it affecting combustion.

Right, a while ago I blanked off my air filter inlet panel on the driver's side (the bit which would allow the air to go into the engine bay) with tape to see how the car would be and if it's of benefit. I did that along with removing the plastic grill from inside the air filter box as well. With the car going in for it's service in the next few weeks, I've checked the air intake side of it other and I'm pleased to report the following; the engine bay has stayed cleaner than when the section was open the air filter box didn't have a load of 'bits' rattling around the bottom the air filter itself is still remarkably clean (only needed to scrap a few flies off it) As blanking the driver's side outlet off hasn't shown any negative effects, I'm wanting to purchase the correct blanking plate. Now I've only been able to find one (5Q0129849) and I'm assuming because the intel part (5Q0129254B) is the same for all MQB cars. Just a bit hesitant to buy it without some proper delving into to as all the ads for them I've found say they're for the 2.0TFSI engine. Anyone able to verify the above please? Cheers

@SashaGrace struggling to think of things which are yet unchanged on your car

I've got those spots on mine and they do my head in. I took the wheels off, thoroughly cleaned them and then polished and waxed them. I haven't seen them getting any worse.

If you get a sports cat and have it mapped, you should be good to go.

If anything with the exhaust filtration system is messed with, it will affect the emissions regardless of whether it's had a remap or not. As said above, if the test thinks any of it has been messed with, it's a fail. It's similar to people who hollow out their DPF's to try and make it appear they're still fitted. They're wise to that one. Whilst it's not illegal to remove such gear, I've seen a few people on other sites who've been fined by VOSA because they're driving on a public road without them fitted and it's been obvious they're driving a car which should have a DPF because of the smoke being emitted. For the sake of a few potential extra horsepower, I wouldn't bother the hassle of attempting to get your car to pass it's MOT and running the risk of having your collar felt with running a decat.

I've had it at night where the wipers will glaze over the screen, especially going under a street light. I just used some white spirit to strip off any 'gunk' which may have been on the screen and then washed it thoroughly will my usual soap and water. I clayed the screen, give it another rinse over and then dried it. To finish I applied my usual TurtleWax Clearvue (the old stuff which got pulled because of the VOC level) and now all is good. No troubles since doing that. Even stopped the wipers from jumping.

There's a time and a place for all the knobs and buttons and the setting and functionalities in our cars.

I'd say putting the car into ESC sport mode gives you a bit of 'slip', but you're still safe in the knowledge that if things go pear shaped, then the car still has the ability to right itself.

i would say when I had my box on, my fuel economy was around the same. Only thing I noticed was the amount of regens the car appeared to increase, especially active ones. Since removing the box, they appear to have calmed down. Can only assume it was due to the additional fuelling.

I had problems with my box and I ended up taking it off. If it wasn't for the issued I faced with the dtuk box, I would recommend one as it did provide a very noticeable increase in usable power

the best 0-60 time I had on mine stock was 7.6 secs. When I had my dtuk box on, it dropped to 6.5 iirc. I didn't get it to start doing traffic light grand prix so I only did it to check there was a power increase. The main difference I saw was in the effortless overtaking, didn't ever seem to matter what gear you were in, it just went. Best thing thing to do would be to go somewhere with a rolling road, get them to do a thorough before tuning check of the car to make sure all is well and then have the remap done accordingly.

yeah same here. Have winrar extract it straight to your sd card. Saves waiting for it to unzip and then copying over

yeah swapped that both times. Only a few quid

That's it, I've tried it, the result isn't as hoped, but hey ho. The result may very well have been different just getting an insert, but I don't want to try anymore.

so an update on the hybrid lower mount for you all. IT'S GETTING TAKEN OUT!!!!!!! I've driven with it now for approximately 5 months and done about 6000 miles with it fitted and I can sum up with the following; Pros The car, I feel, does handle better with it in. It doesn't feel as 'understeery' when pushed hard. Acceleration does feel more precise. That may because there isn't anymore squishiness in the mount. Cons The cabin vibration is the problem. Full stop. End of. Initially on lockdown and with limited driving because of WFH as well, it didn't really annoy me. Now things have sort of returned back to normal, I'm doing a normal ish commute (can sometimes be 100 miles) and I'm experiencing it properly in day to day driving. Trying to drive as normal as possible, the vibrations get on my nerves. I try not to drive paranoid about being ultra eco, but even just going along a 30mph road in 4th, the engine is happy to be there, but the vibrations coming through mean I'm putting it into 3rd to get it revving out of the 'vibration range'. Whilst I appreciate it's only the car's advice, but the majority of the time if you try to drive in the recommended gear, it's going to be an uncomfortable journey. There's a bit of road by where I play footy and why it's 20, god only knows, but it's a copper's area of choice, so 20 gets stuck to rigidly. I've driven along this stretch in the past in 4th, like the car has expressed it is happy to do. It's a 2nd gear road at the moment. It is also a hindrance when you're driving along the motorway in one of the 50mph zones. The engine isn't being laboured driving in 6th gear at that speed in that gear, but if there is a slight incline in the road, you are shaken to bits by the vibration. Sitting at idle when the stop start doesn't kick in (regen or air con related) you sit there shaking. I've my service due next month and I'm going to get the mount taken out and it put back to standard. It is a once bitten, twice shy affair. Whilst the mount provides the performance side, the NVH aspect outweighs it most certainly. I hope this will serve as a 'take heed' post for those considering changing your bushes. I appreciate there are different options and I've gone down the extreme end of the scale, but I feel it's best leaving well alone.

How old is your car? Also when it comes up with that light on does the engine go into limp mode? Sometimes on a motorway cruising car, giving it a proper italian tune up blows a lot of crap out the system.

Have a look on the vcds page on main forum. Gives you a list of people who've got it and you'll be able to see who's close to you.

https://www.awesomegti.com/shop-by-car/skoda/octavia-mk3-5e/brake-pads/ go on there, choose your pad, select your car and jobs a good un

It really does depend on what you're going to use the car for. Over lockdown when the roads were a little quieter, I went for a good few spirited drives and I never once felt the braking performance affected at any stage. On a couple of those days it was around late April early May when we had a mini heatwave. Unless you're planning on taking the car onto the track, or if they're in need of changing, I wouldn't bother changing them from stock. I've looked at changing my calipers to 4 pot monoblocks........but for what? Driving to and from work and the occasional back road blast. Must be me starting to mature, but I can't justify the cost.