ChoonDoode

OK, I'll have a look at that. I don't want to start being too evasive with plugging stuff out. Half is working and I don't want to either break the other side or break another electrical item. But I'll see what spraying a bit of cleaner does and then I'll clear the errors and rescan it. But I'll have to try and see if I can get the screen misted up. That's the real test.

I'll have a go at that. I need to see if I can borrow some needle point attachments as the croc clip ends aren't able to get in the gap. Inside the fuse box appears ok, but when I removed both fuses 11 and 12, the terminals in the fuse box were a little green with corrosion. There is a line where the fuses have been on to. I wonder if just reseating them and trying to brush off some of the corrosion would work? The main thing, however, which I want confirming is does the heated screen have a circuit for both the left and right hand side? Being protected by 2 fuses in the fuse box?

so it's just they're just the same as a normal fuse, unplug them and do a loop test?

I've not no, because I'm not sure which one it is. That sounds like the death knell for my windscreen then. I assume there's nothing else I'm able to do / check? If the windscreen really is shot, then I'd probably do a claim through the insurance some way.

As the title suggests, half the heated windscreen isn't working, specifically the passenger side. I noticed this last night as whilst it wasn't iced up, the car deemed it necessary to active the system. The inside of the screen was misted up with a bit of condensation and the heated windscreen quickly cleared the driver's side, but left the passenger side untouched. I turned the screen on with the button as well in case it was that but didn't do anything. The system has been working because the other week it was a bit icy coming out of work at midnight the other week. I've done an autoscan on VCDS and this has come up; 459017 - Heated Front Windshield B1264 14 [008] - Open or Short to Ground Intermittent - Confirmed - Tested Since Memory Clear Freeze Frame: Fault Status: 00000001 Fault Priority: 6 Fault Frequency: 1 Reset counter: 65 Mileage: 23677 km Date: 2021.03.11 Time: 18:09:05 I've checked 2 fuses in the engines bay's fusebox, fuses 17 and 21, and confirmed both are working. These are labelled in the manual as 'ABS, ESC motor control unit, relay coil for the heated windscreen' and 'Windscreen heater - left' as both of those are normal fuses. Fuse 14 labelled Windscreen heater - right is one of those square ones and I don't know whether you can do a continuity check on those the same as a normal fuse. On the passenger side on the black section at the bottom, there is a little stone chip, but that's been there for years. Can anyone point me in the right direction to start checking things. thanks

I've seen videos on youtube of it being able to be performed on older VAG group cars using VCDS, but they were all PD type engines. Don't know if it's able to be done on CR engines.

the main thing of concern when getting a third party place to fit it is whether they do actually use a dedicated wiring loom and code it up properly, as opposed to cut snipping into the rear light clusters' looms and whacking a bit of heat shrink over to cover the solder joint. one thing to consider if you're looking at a new car and it's in a main dealership is to see if they'd do you a deal on an official towbar and that would be both a bit of business for them and also peace of mind it's a proper job. With regards to engines, I know mine is the more powerful VRS tdi, but anything I've ever towed has given the car any issues. Highest weight trailer I've pulled was an empty horsebox which must have been close to the ton mark. Would I be right in thinking the ratios on the 5 speed will be taller, compared to a 6 speed?

My rattle (which I'm in the process of trying to rectify) are both the front driver and passenger seatbelt adjuster slider parts. On both of them, there's a gap of about 2mm which needs to be filled in. Looking at possibly just using a bit of tape to make the sliding part a bit thicker and fit more snug in the guide.

I've got Michelin PS4 on mine and I do think they're a vast improvement over the S001's. The main thing I've found with them is they always appear to be ready with the grip, but the Bridgestones needed to be warmed up before they fancied working. I watched that video and I don't agree with the view of 'it pushes into understeer before you expect it to'. The Bridgestone's lost traction more often than not when giving it the beans, especially in the wet. But I can't fault the wet grip on the Michelins. The problem is a person's perception of something. My ol' fellas beemer has runflats and going over bumps I feel like my spine is going to shoot my skull, yet he doesn't notice them. It just depends on how and when you're running your car. In an ideal world, I'd have 3 sets of tyres on 3 sets of wheels; Toyo R888R's for the dry and warmer weather, Michelin P4S for the wet periods and then some sort of colder weather tyres to ensure grip when the temperature drops.

Cold temperatures will keep the engine idle speed slightly higher. Coming home the past few nights it's been around 0-4'c and the car's idle has been similar to the OP. I've had the blowers on high initially just to get a bit of warmth into the cabin (heated windscreen on Tuesday with there being a smidge of ice about), but not for too long. At the end of the journey I've stopped at the lights and it hasn't wanted to stop start, even with the engine at full temp. I know it's not been doing an active regen because it doesn't smell like a tyre fire when I'm taking my gear out the boot. I'd assume it's just a case of the electrical consumption is high (climate control, heated seat, headlights) and the cooler temperature. Passive regens would (and should) be happening all the time if the exhaust temperatures are high enough. I wouldn't have thought a marker such as a tank of fuel mileage for a regen to start is the case. It'd be more a case of the soot quantity in the DPF reaches the threshold (25g IIRC) and then the active regen kicks in until it's dropped below the 'turn off' threshold.

you've certainly provided us all on this section of the forum with a lot of info, tips and guides on how best to things on our own cars. Hope you have as much fun on your new car

Using it to go the chippy and probably giving it a rag up and down the road. If you've a dash cam, I'd have a look on the to see what on earth they've been up to

That's my niggle at the moment. Both sides do it. Where did you apply the tape?

dont know if it's because I've the Columbus and the Canton system, but I'm more than happy with the sound quality

must have been the facelifts which came automatically with the rear usb ports. I've heated seats, but no usb ports

I wonder if vigorously shaking the car by toing and froing it with the roof rails can set the alarm off

its tagged at the top on the MK3 octavia section

when mine was brand spanking, I had a look at a tracker. However the cost for a 'decent' one vs the insurance cost, meant I'd be paying over the odds. Out of interest I did it on a Golf GTD i pinched a reg off from Autotrader and that dropped the premium by about £20 as well. Don't think our cars are on the wanted list If the alarm system has a thatcham 1 certificate, it's a bit excessive to start putting another system in conjunction or on top of.

When the coolant is on 90'c and the oil is at least got a bit of temperature in it as well, 70'c +

is this a new app replacing the MFA Pro app?

Unless you're planning on driving your car all day at the limit, I wouldn't worry about oil temps or coolant temps. Generally (unless there's something is blocked / broken with your cooling system) the faster you're going, the more air is passing through the radiator and the more cooling will be happening. I took my old Hyundai on a few track days and the only thing which got affected by the temperature were the brakes. Two things to do before going out for a fast drive; make sure all your liquids (oil, coolant, fuel, screen wash) are topped up and get your car up to temperature before you start ragging it.

the main thing to do is to have it done somewhere reputable. A lot of places will just flash a generic map onto your car as 'it's the same as all the other cars we've had in'. But what works for one car, might not work the same for another. I did have a DTUK box on my car, which was good initially, but then I ran into trouble with constant limp home mode. That shows both a generic map and a piggy back device isn't always the best. When it was working correctly, I had a noticeable increase in torque (you didn't notice a full car or a motorbike trailer) and it did return a bit of an improved MPG. Only thing was having an increase in available power did mean you were more inclined to bury your right foot. I know you've 4WD, but the usage power is only as good as your tyres. I did have potenza s001's on at the time of having the box on, which did lead to accidental wheelspin in the wet. I wasn't doing it deliberately, but you did need to be careful when leaving a damp junction as the torque lump from about 1.75k onwards just caused the TCS to bog the throttle down. Box off and wearing PS4's, it behaves well in all weathers. Once all the covid shenanigans have been put to bed so we're not going to be in a never ending lockdown cycle, I do want to get mine remapped at Darkside developments. VAG group cars are their specialty.

these osrams maybe something to bear in mind, as the LEDs which I'm using are just cheap as chips ones off fleabay and they do flicker every so often. It's not too much of a pain, I just find it a little annoying. I did intend on buying osram bulbs for the fog lights, but they were £75 a side!!!

I assume you're using the car in sport (or is it VRS) mode then. I've got all the sport setting apart from the engine sound in the individual mode

I've a MY16 and mines done it