TheClient

sounds like it!!!

Literally hundreds of postings on these forums. There is a sticky thread on the front mk2 page, on engine failures EA888 1.8 and 2.0tsi. Only you can make the call on trade off risk / vs cost. The earlier revisions were very poorly designed indeed. Do some searches and look at videos if you really want to see why. The is an inspection plug on the lower timing chain cover, you can inspect how far the tensioner is extended. There are some measuring blocks in VCDS which report on parameters that give an indication of the timing phase. There is a possibility an experienced person maybe able to recognise an old version of the tensioner through the inspection plug but the exact revision - pretty impossible. Of course VW/Audi would have a pretty good idea of the in use failure rate that has been exhibited in real life and the design deficiency. Not that they'd ever tell you. Your other questions are all about unknowns, vendor authenticity, reputation, morals. No one can make that call for you. The general rule on purchasing is if there is not proof assume it has not been done.

My injectors weren't terrible. They didn't look terrible when I pulled them. The tests pre-clean reported 2 x good 2 x fair. After 4 x good and the flow was a lot better matched after cleaning. The core problem was definitely the intake ports and intake valves gunked up. Mine is so much better when cold temp driving and idling now. No more shuddering, missing and vibrating when idling! I didn't really notice it getting worse over time, apart from slightly higher fuel consumption but then the rough cold driving just occurred and never went away a month or two before I undertook the cleaning.

Hmm. I've heard of people trying to use donor DSG gearboxes from the same make or even across VAG marques VW/Audi/Skoda/Seat. However, there are additional things to match like the 3 character identifier which I believe at the very least signifies the ratios used. I.e. a DSG DQ250 diesel vRS box will not have the same ratios as a DSG DQ250 Petrol. Buying second hand, even supposed low mileage is always a risk. It can pay off but "not guaranteed" to solve the problem! Getting the gearbox specialist to help source and fit or endorse the gearbox you are looking at may provide some certainty. I did not know the VW DSG boxes were installed in Renaults, are you saying they are?

Until about a year ago I could phone orders or go to the desk but no more without applying for a trade account pushed and pushed last time I was there with the part number in hand - no deviation from policy sir.....

I think it depends on what you need, what is around at the time you need it and who is selling it. For eg. single parking distance sensor (4 in front, 4 in back 8 no. in total) original part is about £40. On ebay, if I searched hard enough using equivalent OEM codes / VW part number etc. I found genuine vw parts at £9.95 delivered. A great saving, but I suspect the seller had got a job lot from somewhere and when they run out that is it. On the other hand if I need consumable parts, seals etc. urgently, then I will frequent Skoda or VW parts department. VW is easier when I need an engine part as I can cycle there from home. Conversely, on seals, I paid about £4 for 5 febi aftermarket throttle body gaskets (looked very much the same as originals) and £15 for an elring intake manifold gasket ordered via ebay. where as originals were something like £14 and £33. so under £20 versus £40... Also, another factor is our local TPS refuse to sell to me now for a year or more, per there written trading policy on a plaque at the front desk!

@davidlpalmer what a shamozzle... It all seems very co-incidental and the dealers attitude is um, very restrictive and prescriptive, and their diagnosis does raise a few questions. I agree with @langers2k it seems the only way to get some clarity is to get someone recognised as independent to report on the failure. It will cost some money but the consequence of the failure is sure to cost a lot more. It is possible, I suppose, as well, that the independent report indicate it is an unrelated failure which could possibly support the dealer. However, there is the secondary issue then, that as pointed out, some of the parts likely to be involved would be under the trust building measure that apply post the update anyway. Proof is always a sticking point but the report will go a long way, in any case they (the dealer) ought to appreciate it is on the balance of probabilities. And there are a fair few things swinging against them, a lot of co-incidences. Just because the there has been one independent service at sometime in the past doesn't mean the dealer is off the hook. It is never a 100% proof matter in civil matters. I'm not an expert of diesels or the fix which is another reason why I would suggest someone independent takes another look. Other option would be approaching skoda uk saying you have an issue with this dealers approach, application of tbm and diagnosis. However, they will likely accept their expert opinion at best, they may offer another Skoda dealer to look, would you trust their opinion now as independent?

Bizarre. But fixed.

It's a nice looking and specd car but alas I need a dsg (wife can't remember if yours has a 3rd pedal) and estate (dogs and children).. I'm sure it'll move looks nice.

I don't think so. Air con, distribution flaps related to car cutting in and out intermittently. No. All the camshaft / crankshaft errors and correlation is more of a worry. First inference is a slipped timing belt but may not be.

You could persevere and give someone else a go at fixing the issue. No guarantees though but someone with experience and a good track record maximises your chances. Other option is go back to standard, ask for a refund, assess on standard map, then possibly try another map, revo, apr et al. I'd probably try that.

I've seen this sort of scenario a few times on here on the CCZA, and in the cases I've seen reported on here, disappointingly, despite a lot of effort and frustration they have never got to the bottom of it. Whether those few cases I have seen are exactly the same fault or underlying cause as yours is hard to know as they never solved it. Search for @planehazza and read what he tried, but to know avail. It's a bit disappointing when the experts and the remapper say it is all good - but it is not. Was the issue evident at all before the remap? Could they put the standard map on and see if the problem is there now? What has happened in some other cases there has been a little flat spot prior to remap and then after the remap it became more noticeable and severe which is understandable with more fuel / air / boost. @roaddetective is another but I can't remember exactly the issue there. How expert are unicorn, can they properly examine data logs, fuel pressure, etc etc?? Sounds like you need to pay for someone who can properly look at the most important parameters that could cause such an issue and that means someone with a lot of experience on this engine. Otherwise you will just start throwing parts at it, fuel pump, fuel injectors, pcv, on top of what you have already replaced. Have you ever cleaned the intake valves? I was astounded at the build up on mine at 69,000. It caused issues with cold start, light throttle when cold, fuel consumption. It did not resolve planehazza flat spot issues though.

Maybe "enquire" with a proper refurbing centre and see what they suggest as a proper fix or quick fix. If they are friendly they might offer up what they would use as a tactical fix I.e spray can paint and colour. But it will never be durable like the original finish. Another possibility is a mobile smart repairer with A decent reputation.

They always have an out because goodwill is discretionary ex gratia and depends a on who is assessing and how they feel on the day. 2 near identical cases are not always treated same. OP, you need a proper independent report on the failure and the only party you will have consumer traction with is the dealer you purchased the car from.

Is it a mk2 face lift? If it is you need to get a genuine pcv / fine oil separator. They are integrated unit together. And there are two variants, depending on engine manufacture date. VW, skoda spare parts departments (retail) or TPS (if they will serve you). Not cheap either ~£90. But Cheaper than the manifold and a lot lot less labour..... Is the boost down on WOT??

The inlet flap mechanism is a weak point and plenty of failures but it doesn't usually result in much noticeable power loss. And usually throws engine codes. Who did you buy the vehicle from, how long ago exactly, what's the history? What's is the engine code, first 3 or 4 characters of the engine number?

Most likely the switch. I've had to replace mine when I first purchased vehicle used.

No change in 160k. Or when was it last done. It is down to removing contaminants from the wear of the clutch so sedate extra urban driving is very easy on it but still, an oil change and oil filter change will be advisable..

I've never driven 19"s. But with 18" on my 2011 vRS I preferred the 17" balance on my golf gt tsi. But, on a car designed for 18" it is hard to go back... depends if standard ride height, spacers etc as well I suppose. Personally I think the 17" rims and tyres were more than enough balance performance vs comfort for me. BUT is doesn't mean they look good!

Yep. It was probably the most painful part of the job. Removing and reinstalling the support bracket. Well, I used the spline on a socket with an articulated universal joint connection. This worked perfectly except for dimensions were so tight to the coolant lines (I had loosened the fastening brackets) as you undid the Spline bolt the socket universal joint would start to foul the coolant lines but I perservered. I did not even remove the bolt or the bracket as a part of the job, I left it hanging. Then on re-assembly those coolant lines were in the way again but I perservered. A shorter universal socket connection or Spline bit or removing those hard coolant lines would certainly help. Not enjoyable.

A bit of a cop out really. I understand the thrust of what they are saying but really, this is a pretty severe case of corossion that has occurred over a lot of years and must have shown signs of comprising those arms 8 months ago. I would also be having a little chat about the garage about whether the car was fit for purpose when sold. Unless it was a bargain too cheap to be true I'd be asking them to cover your repair costs. Maybe get someone competent to have a good look over or under the vehicle too.

Result. Well done, thanks for the update, maybe update your thread as well? It is a shame it is only the dealer who suffers the brunt but that is the contractual model and they really should of been on the ball more in this case. The terminal failure only a week or two after diagnostic checks would of worked in your favour plus the visibility of the number of issues like in this thread.

I doubt it is a sign of something worse. BUT i haven't inspected the vehicle so it is not a very sound assessment. The best placed person to comment may be the independent garage. Thoughts: If it is only the linkage to the actuator arm ok, still not great as a unique feature of a car with warranty that you've paid for them to diagnose. If however, it was say the wastegate arm movement and bushing worn then that would be a problem. How may km has the vehicle travelled apart from the trip from C.R. to mainland Australia in a container? I expect it may be the former issue, rather than the latter. none the less annoying though.

Hmm. Yes, no mention of your consumer rights or 6 years or fit for purpose because they are not the vendor. The most disappointing part of the reply IMO is even though you are contributing to the repair, they are saying you have no further warranty, which is not how co-contributions have necessarily worked in the past, especially disappointing if you have lingering concerns on durability......

.I think it's possibly a mutual mis understanding of what each other is saying. There was a clip available for the gen 2 ea888 as in mk2 Oct Fl, golf gti mk6, audi q5 et al. But the actuator design is different I believe. For one thing the gen 3 uses an electro mechanical mechanism where as the gen 2 was vacuum. Is the car under warranty? If not, is probably put up with it unless it is so sloppy it indicates a failure Ps. I own a gen 2 and installed the clip within a few weeks of buying the car used at 34k miles. So I know the annoyance of the sound. Gen 2 EA888 IHI RHF5 Gen 3 IHI IS20 The gen 3 actuator coupling to the wastegate arm looks much chunkier.