STU3Y

To confirm. You are correct, I can access the module with lin convertor out, but not with it in.

So now checked my clock spring. As you can see the terminals are not even touching properly which has resulted in the others getting got and being burnt. it is these that grab the pins for the heater. As the Russian forum suggests my mate has now soldered them and the problem is solved. Heated wheel is back to normal and fully operational. No fault codes. Not pretty but has done the job. @Purpletom Take yours apart and solder it and pretry sure it will solve the issue. Then you can send your febi one back or sell it.

https://www.drive2.ru/l/668838421808044836/ Its Russian so needs translating, but it is the most likely issue. Seems tk be lots of people of the drive forum reporting the same. Once soldered seems to fix it. Worth considering. Not done anything myself yet, will be taking a look tomorrow

Just a random thought. Can you go back into your coding turn the heated wheel button off and see that makes any difference. For some reason I can't seem to access it anymore. Pretty Sure thats where I turned off my flappy paddles too and haven't got back into it since. Dont know if that's related as the wheel worked while it was like this. Given that you are having the same issue, would be good to know if you can access it or not? Anyone have any ideas why I can't access this any more

Will check when I can, on nights tonight so had to put it back together for now to get ready. Engine running or not?

Hi, thanks for the response. Sadly I am a bit useless when it comes to this stuff, hence why I went the plug and play route with the adapter. The fuse is fine. Can you advise how to do the checks you mention. I can follow guides etc but rely on the expertise of others who have figured it out. I have just checked the resistance and continuity on all the adpater loom and new fuse wire. All was at 00.2 ohms. Couldn't see any damage to wires or loose contacts etc.

I am messaging the guy o got the lin from as he fits wheels all the time. He said to check the power line wiring to the paddle block. Not sure what that means. Seeking clarification

No difference with adapter removed. Just lose bakc buttom, phone and additional menu

Might go unpaid the lin in a minute and see. I just never like touching anything without the battery disconnected, which is annoying keep doing.

Strangely I think my ali one may actually be a genuine one, as most are only marked AG but mine is VW AG, and came in a VW packaging. Plus it is dated 2017, so suspect it could even be a used one. The seller claims it is a brand new old stock, genuine part, and basically told me to get on the forums for help as thw part will not be defective. If i had no luck then he suggested return it for a refund.

I haven't removed the lin, as did not think that would have any connection with the heating side of the wheel. How much was your febi spring?

Hi guys Sadly i am back and in desperate need of help. My heated wheel had been working perfectly until a couple of weeks ago when it suddenly stopped. I plugged in the obd11 and got a fault code B156613 Heat element for steering wheel heater open circuit : I can clear the code and it only returns when I try and turn on the heated wheel again. I have tried to do some research but not had much success. It advised to measure the heat element in the wheel which should read about 1.5ohm. It measured 1.6 so should be all good. If this is ok it says its most likely to be the clock spring/steering module. I have therefore ordered one from Ali which sadly this gives the same error. I have fitted another heated wheel to test and that is the same. (The element on that was tested at 1.5ohm too). Basically I can press the button on the wheel and it does nothing. If i turn it on by the media screen it pops up and then goes straight off as if tying to turn it on but can't. Any help would be greatly appreciated. As I am lost.

You're welcome. I had my lin convertor programmed to operate the phone from the travel assist button too. That way I have voice on the normal button and still have phone seperate like on the Mk3. Only thing that would be better is if the heated wheel button actually operated the heat stages rather than just turn on and off. Not sure thats possible though. Either way I love it.

Looking to do this at the moment. I have Vrs 230 Fl Petrol Read lots of threads and opinion is so divided as to what insert to use. I want the insert as I get really bad wheel hop when its wet. I don't drive hard it's normally just a quick bit of acceleration to get a gap on a busy roundabout. Obviously yellow is for mine, but worried it will vibrate inside too much, and also concerned about them melting. Has anyone actually compared the metal ones to the yellow with regards to interior vibrations? Also i saw mention of a briskoda discount code, what is this and where can it be used?

That's the difference between the two B versions. 832 and 833? Other than the price

Realised then cruise control wasn't working. Spent ages trying to sort it as i thought I had a dodgy clock spring. Put the old wheel on and off several times. Then realised the clock spring itself needed to be coded under steering column. After this everything worked. And randomly the fault code above has disappeared for now

@Purpletom I have finally completed this modification and all buttons work perfectly, including the button to turn on the heat on the wheel itself. This was just a matter of coding as I posted above. I have a fault code though I have spkken to the Russian guy who supplied the lin adapter, and he states that it is just caused by the lin bridge but doesn't affect the operation or safety of the vehicle. Do any of you guys have this fault code.

The 12v socket in the front, used to be for a cigarette lighter years ago

Is the new genuine console the same colour as the old one and side panels. It's hard to tell from your images. I ordered the ali express one but it's black so my ocd can't cope with it.

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@Purpletom Still gathering the parts for this. One question... where did you route the positive and ground for the heated wheel. I am using a kufatec replica loom rather than re-pinning the original, just incase anyone ever wants to revert back To the original Mk3 wheel. I have run the loom from the fuse box, fuse box diagrams i found online suggest original position for heated wheel should be port 4. I have pinned this, and ran the ground to an earth point in the side compartment by the fuse box. I have then run the loom across below the fuse box, behind the media screen and into the steering column shroud. I haven't removed anything else yet as don't have the lin convertor. Not being able to see exactly where the loom connects i am bit concerned mine is too short

Just did this one myself. As above cigarette socket was a pain to remove. Kit fits well, only two observations, the biggest is the difference in colour, it bugs me like mad. Kit is black and car is a dark greyish colour. Other than that the bottom two torx screws have to be left off as the insert is so well secured can't get it out to fit them. It's still held well though as top ones go in fine and clips in also.

Seems like most are around 38mpg then but mainly dsg. Mine may be a 2-4 down then. Maybe that 7th gear makes all the difference..

@Purpletom Did you try the coding I added for the heated wheel button. This has to be dine prior to installing the adapter. I have been talking to a Russian guy that makes these and he says it doesn't matter which version of the adapter you have i.e basic or full, as the button is operated by the coding only. To get it to work for you now, you need to remove the lin adapter, plug everything in without it. Then do the coding, once coded plug the lin adapter back in again and it should all work.

I've seen the new ones for sale, but where are all the used ones that people have removed. Would hope to pay half that for one.