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Yep Fabia 1 VRS 1.9 of turbo Thanks for that. I will give dealer a call.

Hi, I found a few links on Briskoda about 'sticky throttle/accelerator pedal' Lifting the accelerator pedal with foot under it does lower the revs from 1000 back to 800. It is unclear how to repair? - Someone has put an 'English spring' - drilling a small hole on the pedal and attaching spring to retract the pedal (saves lifting with foot). - Replacement with second hand units or new - Apparently fit and forget. I have replaced brake pedal switch some years ago on same car. - Throttle body in engine bay (is this the anti shudder valve ASV?) near EGR - Lubricating (someone suggested silicone - I wouldn't use silicone - it is an insulator and will prevent electrical contact) pedal. Will a new pedal solve this issue and any ideas on a dealer sourced part cost? Suggestions (guide)? Thanks

I've had the Fabia since it had 44k miles and it has had 5w30 505.01 since then. I went for Shell since I used another grade in a Peugeot 180 bhp 307 which requires 5w40, the mpg economy never got over 39.9 mpg , ever, since using Shell the car managed 40.4mpg. Engine was smoother too. So, the Shell was a quality engine oil. Back to Fabia, the 'looser engine' effect when the car hits 90C on coolant from cold has always been there in the fabia and I never noticed this particularly on other cars.

Yeah, don't get me started on that! Things have improved. Kwik fit and ATS just use the ratchet gun to take off the nuts and use the torque wrench to put nuts back on, I've noticed, so practices have improved.

One reason I do as much maintenance myself , as much as possible, is that some garages cut corners. One dealer (Peugeot) in Barnsley but now a Kia dealer changed engine oil and filter, except they didn't know the last filter change had been done in Germany using Ohaus. They hadn't changed it. The sludge (petrol) on it was consistent with a 12k miles change not a 3k oil change that followed at 15k miles . On another car I suspect they hadn't used the correct oil, in the cold it felt like 10w grade not 5w. I had paid for an oil filter they supplied too! Hard to prove conclusively in court. Another garage in Leeds even offered to change engine oil using more expensive option with 507.00 oil on a DPF car, which it needed. The fact it was an extra £30 option suggests some folks were getting the wrong oil and the extra sludge and DPF ash.

Yes Wino, I have previously used5w30 Quantum Platinum Plus . I bought Shell 5w30 505.01 which is no longer available, but Quantum is a good oil. I will stick to 5w30 505.01 quantum platinum plus. Another reason for trying 5w40 505.01 was the mileage on the engine and associated wear. It is approaching 90k miles, and some people suggested out of the two 505.01 oils, the engine might benefit from 5w40 rather than 5w30

I read the 5w40 505.01 Vs 507.00 5w30 oil. It would make sense to buy just 507.00 for my 2 cars. Buying a 20l drum always works out cheaper than 4 X 5 l cartons. Wino - Is the 507.00 really a more cam / engine protective replacement for 505.01 like that link suggests? I thought 505.01 oils would have been dropped and replaced with 507.00 oil. I have seen this with GM oils for 2004 on era models being replaced with newer oil branded with the Dexos 2 oil standard, however, it is backward compatible with older models.

It was a discussion on here, but I know it is 505.01 additive that protects not the 40 grade Vs 30 grade. The Quantum oil I used in the PD is always 505.01. I have used Quantum 5w30 507.00 in my Octavia 3 which is good stuff compared to some other '507.00 rated oils' ( fewer regens, quieter engine). I will be swapping back. The car is in good shape and everything else being equal I noticed the fuel economy difference on each fuel fill after. The average fuel trip computer, although over generous on mpg, is always consistent. The lack of looseness on engine warm up was noticed straight after the oil change on the following journey and thereafter. It is subtle but noticeable. It is not a major issue and yes I don't want to generate a big debate / argument. I just thought I would share my observations. Stick with the 5w30 505.01

Thought I would share my recent experience of switching engine oil to more viscous 5w40 from 5w30. Car is Fabia VRS 130 PD using 505.01 PD oil. I have always used 5w30 engine oil, however, based on the discussions on Briskoda about minimal difference between the 30 and 40 spec oil when it reaches engine operating temperature I thought I would try 5w40 Quantum oil. The fuel economy is lower, easily by 2 mpg on a like for like journey. I have been using the new oil since XMAS. When using 5w30 when the coolant reached 90C the engine 'loosened up', having noticeably more power and seemed to have less resistance, keeping revs in gear when having a accelerator burst and letting off accelerator. Now the car seems identical when warm compared to cold running, a lot more up tight. The 5w40 was 1/3 cheaper than 5w30 and it has been suggested it would protect cam loves more effectively than 5w30, but I think I will be swapping back. What are other people's experiences?

That is useful, thanks. Looking at the engine, I didn't clearly see an EGR between the airbox / MAF sensor and DPF at rear top of engine bay. This is the DPF? Photo taken from front of car looking to rear of engine. I only assumed EGR might cause premature DPF issues given its mention as a cause on several websites, probably other manufacturers, along with faulty sensors measuring differential in exhaust pressure across DPF or other issues. Looks like this EGR is found on a range of engines including 2l 110kw tdi Out of interest, how long would I get out of the EGR?

My car is 2016 reg so avoided the emissions fix. But you are correct the earlier diesels (Octavia 2?) then went onto develop problems post emissions fix. There is a plethora of mk 1 and 2 models on YouTube where EGR is being cleaned but nothing on Octavia 3. Are the EGRs on new diesels just as likely to block up as earlier diesels, that is by 50 k miles? Images posted look like it is a throw away part and replace?

Another use for my endoscope camera...

No one's going to go against manufacturer's guidance. This image is a 7yr old Fabia pd cam belt about to be changed, 38k miles after last change. Overdue on time (by 3yrs) The belt is smooth, no cracks, fraying as yet. This can belt Q came up before. Apparently, the same 2l diesel engine is found in VW and Audi, yet VW offered 7yr and Audi 9yr on Cam belt. I heard the Bora diesels had plastic impellers that broke but if s metal impeller seizes it throws out the whole timing of the belt destroying the engine. The metal is stronger, the plastic breaks. Different manufacturer, but friend who breaks cars had a couple of timing belt fails on Peugeots, both went at 60 k plus miles and were over 10 years. Another car, a Xantia went on 70k miles. Owner had one belt kit change and it went to 140,000 miles and he forgot about the next interval. The mileage was more important as the belt had come to its threshold. Lots of factors way in, but I think you would get to 40k or another 2 years before contemplating. Are Cam belts really this fragile nowadays? Pulleys might start to squeal and give sign they giving up. 20k seems too low imo. I take a picture of my Octavia and we can all compare belts!

Sorry to hear. Dash cam is standard operating procedure nowadays I'm afraid. Could have been worse...it could have come through your windscreen. Is bumper all one piece on Octavia 3?

I posted a while ago about info about EGR cleaning on Octavia 3. There is plenty of info on YouTube about early diesels and I have changed the EGR on my Fabia and cleaned it since. No one responded, but since I have come across these images of an O3 EGR for sale. Unlike the earlier diesels it looks impossible to clean out. Look at the mesh pattern in the chrome metal, allowing air flow through, but no possibility of cleaning tools. On Peugeot models I come across metsl-plastic joins that when separated the EGR breaks and replacement is the only option. I'm admittedly a bit paranoid about keeping on top of this, if the EGR starts to gunk up and work improperly the DPF will take all the smoke that will lessen its lifespan. Here is a few images of the EGR. Anyone care to correct me on manufacturers opting for replacement rather than ability to clean? Last image I think is the anti shutter valve (small disc) Unlike the Fabia mk1 which has no electronics I think the O3 has a wiring loom to it, possibly flagging engine check light if blocked? Or is that power if it is not vacuum operated? There is a sliding scale on efficiency before blockage occurs, hence wanting to clean. Also, do new EGRs need programming so the car accepts new hardware? I'm aware that new power steering pump on Audi (2012) required OBD2 programming for ECU to accept it.

Nice one, that's what I did last time. I noticed the pin went further than photo. I slowly cranked back forth to check it inserted correctly. O ring - yes, has one. No silicone check. Thanks

XL good for cornering, carrying heavier loads, trailers. I think most of weight in Fabia VRS diesel is up front though. You will still have a problem at rear if you put to back just less vibration. Alloy wheel reconditioning - not sure. Wouldn't heating and cooling weaken the alloy. Probably expensive. I think 16" alloys are a lot cheaper than 18" (half price). I bought a second set for winters and got 4 good ones for £250 with two ok tyres. Needed refurb that I did myself. If someone selling then agree to take to tyre balance shop and slip them some money to spin them. The tyre balance machine will often state whether they can be balanced or not. But you will see a wobble side to side if the alloy is bent and will cause problems on your car. Clutch flywheel kit cost £650 fitted when I got mine done

I would start looking for new alloys and if the seller offers to drop them off at your house I would walk away as there is no come back.

A bit of guess work but...XL would keep their shape to the alloy better. If the alloy is warped then they would follow and keep their warped shape better, perhaps? Plus heavier (making the wobble worse). Imagine a centrifuge unbalanced (or washer with too much weight one side), it will shake badly. The non XL tyre will have more plyability/deform better keeping s more circular shape? On a side note I have had XL and non XL wheels and the non XL accelerate better due to less weight in tyre. There is a noticeable difference in weight. If you get a flat tyre on non XL and continue to drive then your alloys will be wrecked (50p) as the circle becomes a poly sided shape.

This guide is very good and when I changed timing belt aux belt tensioner and water pump there was a few things I didn't ask, but all worked out in the end. It is now timing belt change time again so I just wanted to clear some things up. 1 The guide mentions setting the timing to Top Dead Centre (TDC) by turning the spline on front right side of engine behind wheel arch plastic that you remove. To be honest I could not detect much change in resistance when rotating. Also, would not all the 4 cylinders of the 1.9tdi be at different positions. I am uncertain of what TDC means I guess. I think this step was instructed in case timing lock tool dislodged. 2 Water pump - The water pump simply pushes horizontally into right side of engine. Is there any recommendations on sealant? I just went the rubber seal of water pump and smooth surface of car with coolant (has that glycol greasiness). I didn't fancy silicone sealant dislodging and gunking up coolant system or causing a leak. Thanks

Maybe the extra weight of the new tread made it worse? Or are the new wheels Extra Load XL? If vrs 16" spider alloys 205 45 16 I believe the load values are 83 (no side wall reinforcement) or 87 (with reinforcement, XL).

If the rear alloy()s were damaged, IE had a buckle you would be at pains to notice it on the rear, although the vibration would still be there and might cause rear wheel bearing failure. Moving the rear wheels to front of car has simply made the buckled alloy(s) noticeable. You seem to have ruled out the tyres. Flat spots from an emergency brake will produce same effect as a buckled alloy, so new tyres won't have this. I suspect it is not the wheel balancing. I have lost weights on newly sprayed alloys and it didn't make too much difference compared to buckled alloys. The bigger inch the alloy the worse the effect. You could take the wheels to spin them on wheel balance machine. Use flat screwdriver to get out stone chips out of tread. Even a slight buckle will show a wobble and to be honest I would send it to scrap yard and look for a new alloy(s) (pair). Hope this helps.

Looks like credit card coming out! Thanks.

Hmmm I'm tempted. There is 15% off also. The Jabba is now group buy of 6 or more only. It lacks the drop links so I think the bar has slightly more clearance, but has no adjustments, and is pricey, particularly now if you have to buy 6!

Thanks. What setting do you have it on, low middle or stiff? Parking - I guess issues might occur when the inside of wheels are near curb with other 2 wheels on pavement?