TruckbusUK

+1 from above, but would defo check the alignment ... doesnt sound right I never thought the lights were that bad at all.

Oh you could but Im far to polite .... if you think its wrong link to your counter evidence.

Well that took longer to come than anticipated, but many thanks for your kind words Urrell, but sorry your are incorrect in your defn/assumption, it is the highest speed the tyre will maintain, but only for 600 seconds, as that is all it has been tested to (testing is done in 10km per hour steps and usually stop once the tyre design parameters have been reached.) I accept that tyres will all be different and some will fail earlier than others, but are you willing to take that risk ... catastrophic failure (delamination, sidewall failure or blowout) are all are likely as the tyre has not been tested for that, unless you are promoting skills as a "tyre whisperer" you will never know as its impossible to tell, hence stick to the sidewall speed rating. As to the comment " biggest and most dangerous load of crap I have ever heard" you are entitled to your opinion, but that is how the rating is calculated and what it means, I am unsure why erring on the side of caution is dangerous, but so be it in your world. 🙂

Lots of useful info in this thread, but one point has been missed or misunderstood .... the "speed rating" ... yes most car will never do the speed that the tyre fitted is rated for, but the reason they are rated above the max speed of the vehicle they are fitted to is because the "rating" does not mean the maximum speed that the vehicle can do, but the rating actually means the speed that the tyre can sustain for 600 seconds before suffering a catastrophic carcass failure .... so say you are on a German Autobahn, if you Yeti has a max speed of 127 miles per hour you need to be using a tyre with a much higher "speed rating" than your Yeti can achieve ..... if using "H" tyres, that have a 130MPH rating you are running dangerously close to that absolute tyre limit before carcass failure, hence they car will be fitted from the factory and homolgated with W rated tyres so they provide a safety margin close to 75% of the tyres speed rating. Make no mistake .... a tyres speed rating should not be used to match the maximum top speed of the vehicle they are fitted to. I await the flaming about UK speed limits etc, but thats how it works and that is why they tyres fitted are "so" much higher rated, like it or lump it. 🙂

Similar here, we are the first owner, and took 1 year extended at purchase ...TBH, we have had very little go wrong, but probably fairly expensive ... electric driver seat control module failed, SatNav replaced ... all under manufacturers ... so I hope we don't get any problems over this headlight issue before the warranty expires. 🤞

I'd agree for condensation in the headlight ... Volvo even mention this in there owners manual for the XC90 .... but with the yeti I'm sure goldfish could survive in mine ... defo not condensation but water sloshing about.

Fair point Expatman .... I'll report back the list of excuses why they think its not covered 🙂 .... why do I have an impending sense of doom approaching. Oh, no Ive turned into Pvt Frazer .... doomed I tell yea, doomed.

Hello Bex, manufacturers? ... unfortunately no, but it does have some Skoda extended left ... Its due in to the dealer in the next couple of weeks for its 4th year service and MOT, I'll mention it.

Afternoon, I need some collective thoughts here ... after a run in some very heavy rain yesterday, this morning I notice I have water in the OSF headlight 🤢 I have checked the covers for the lamps (the ones you replace the bulbs through), they are both intact and have their seals in place and are correctly tightened. Any ideas how the water is getting in, its an active Xenon unit. Ive checked the headlamp lens and there are no cracks or holes that I can see from the front/top. So 1/ best method of drying the headlamp out? 2/ where to look for the ingress point given what I have already checked? 3/ do you need to take the bumper off to remove the headlamp (so I can check under the lamp unit for something amiss?) 4/ if the bumper does require to be removed, does anyone have instructions on how to do this on a F/L Yeti. (Im hoping the lamp can come out via the top .... not holding my breath.) Any ideas?

Thule used to do a hard box for the Easybase/902/3 bike carrier ... I think it was called the Backup Box 900 .... I had one many years ago, I'm sure I paid about £300'ish and that was 15 years ago .... think your between a rock and a hard place ... Thule kit is excellent, buy oh boy do you pay handsomely for the privilege. Good luck with your search

Think I'd be much more worried at the woeful 3 star euroNCAP rating .... 3 stars in this day and age 🤢.... sure I read somewhere the duster is really a Renault Clio Mk1 platform .... its cheap for a reason, and not just because its built in Romania.

Dont forget with an APE you need to learn to drive like an Italian delivery driver in Rome .... I wanna go over there .... Ciao! 🙂

Dont forget buying anything used you are at the risk of everything being a problem not just Pano roofs .... which DONT always leak, but you pays your money and you takes your choice .... Caveat Emptor .... do your checks carefully, there are always signs of impending doom!