TruckbusUK

Never had a Mk2 Phase1 or 2 Renault Clio then?

Didn't see you mention if it was a 4x4 Yeti, if so the Haldex fluid needs done, plus I'd also pull the filter and clean or replace dependant on which Haldex is fitted.

Yeah, just to get you there ... then they will find that a fly once had its behind go through its head as it hit your windscreen, and voila .... £5k reduction.

Agree, I have a set of load stop from the "old" square black bars .... real pity they cant be used with the "T" nut system bars ...

100mm, was best guess, but my wife always says I exaggerate

Hi, no, on the Yeti I have 127cm Aero bars, and they don't stick out further than the top of the doors ... about 100mm each side from the feet. The Wingbar Evos, are on our BMW, and are longer (135CM) bars, so cant move them over to let you see.

The Wingbar evo (latest variation,) has two sealing strips ... so the "T" mount slides between them, and you never remove or require to cut the rubber strips .... big improvement over the non "evo" versions.

Morning Rustynuts, what was involved with the reprogramming, who did it and at what cost? I must admit I always find this type of thing a bit suspect .... (manufacturers milking it a bit) but if there is a good reason then fairy doos!

127CM ... be careful about using longer bars ... Thule only machine a slot about 150mm, on the underside to accept the foot kit ... if you use bars that are much wider than Thule recommend then you need to elongate the slot to accept the longer bars or you will find the feet dont actually sit on the roof rails properly. Hope it helps.

Hi, the Westfalia one is the key is inserted and turned to unlock, the knurled knob is twisted in the direction of the arrows ... green to red, and the towbar hook, simply pulls down to detach ... sure all other detachable bars are similar. Check the instruction on-line at the manufacturers website.

I'd support the detachable version ... the shin crack is very painful .... only downside is the detachable is no protection the the presence of the sh1** head parkers ... I actually had a neighbours visitor came to my door to complain they had cracked their number plate on my towbar .... quickly despatched with a few choice words, note of their registration and examination of any Yeti damage.

Dont forget if the centre bore is too big, but everything else is sized correctly you can get spigot reducing rings to reduce the bore back to 57.1mm required for the Yeti. .... Usually less than £10 per set from most alloy wheel dealers. Hope it helps

Rain-X is a good product IMO, but a pain to apply properly. back to the OP ... if you have condensation in the car you either have water in the car or something in the car is holding water ... likely culprits are carpet mats if you are sure you dont have water ingress. In the current weather the mats will just soak up the damp and then you will have condensation issues, either that or you are not allowing the car to dry out properly (prob short journeys.) Don't forget to run the AC/Climate if you have it as it is effectively an air dryer and will help, but if the problem is consistent then you have a leak or otherwise something is allowing water into the car. Hope it helps.

There are slots on the welded seam of the sills, that are for drainage (often mistaken for jacking points) ... if blocked can allow water to enter the car interior.

We used to have a Ford Galaxy with a heated screen and I would agree, however the heated screen on the Yeti is light years ahead than the Ford version and TBH we never notice it ... occasionally you get a glint when a car is approaching with full beam on at night, but IMO is not a problem, where the Galaxy was like wired glass in comparison, but checking it out is a good idea.

Absolutely ... it takes seconds to defrost even a -11° frost (dont know why its not more popular,) just dont use the wipers till it looks slushy or you will be buying new blades ... how do I know? ... go on guess

A power station take a lot longer to build and bring on line than the current crystal ball gazing of 2030 ... still no plans as to where the power infrastructure is going to materialise from to supply the electricity that is needed. TBH it will get dressed up in all sorts of spin, but wait for the delays .... I am sure they will be inevitable.

TBH I have always thought reversing lights were actually an indication that the car was about to reverse, rather than lighting up the area behind the car ... unless you fit an additional rear light as has been suggested (I did have a "front" fog light fitted under the bumper of my Cortina in the '70 for that reason, but they were happy tinkering days. ) The alternative is use a PIR security light on your house/garage/fence to light your way if its needed. Just a thought

Re the rectangular slot in the first pic, I had a Skoda emergency bulb kit in that space on delivery ..... didnt ask for it nor pay for it as far as I'm aware, but it was in that space. Hope it helps

Yes they can be a bitch ... I ended swinging on the end of a 30" breaker bar ... I think the factory need to check the calibration of their torque wrenches ... can believe they are supposed to be that tight