TasMan

Better rear suspension on the Estates that don't cause extreme inner tyre wear (despite 4 wheel alignment done when tyres replaced...) Clutch slave cylinders that don't fail at 30,000 miles with associated ££££ bill !! Grrr!

Sounds like it has been a great car. Can't comment on the noise am afraid but certainly bushes, mounts and springs all come to mind. Are you saying the noise appeared after Halfords did the work ? I recall on one of the posts engine mounts also a possible contender to check. Out of interest, with yours being the 4x4 have you been servicing your Haldex unit ? Have you had any issues with propshaft bearings ? Cheers Dave

Nice update there thanks and some good follow up points. I was the same, a bit wary of messing around with such things but take your time and with the correct part and tools its a very easy job.... the difference is night and day (with the added drama ) !

Do you have access to a code reader at all ? (I use Carista which is fairly inexpensive...) Would be worth seeing if there are any codes getting thrown up once you have the flat battery sorted out. Can a faulty alternator not cause severe battery drain ? Keep us posted thanks.

Good you have it sorted now and can enjoy it with no big repair bills! Is it a recent purchase ? If so it would be worth making sure the timing belt and water pump have been changed so that you can continue to enjoy it ! Is it 2WD or 4WD ? Cheers

Tyre condition ok ? Superbs like to chew up rear tyres which can cause sawtoothing and tyre noise (although it may be variable at different speeds...)....worth checking, especially the inner edges.

Hi, Yes you gently prise the top cover up. Trim tools are worth getting but a flat screwdriver carefully applied should do the same job, just take it easy. The Kodiaq set up might be different, can't comment on that. The Superb has the two screws at the front which you need to turn the steering wheel either way to get access, then the screw beneath the column which isn't obvious. Releasing the adjustment lever should allow the bottom trim to then drop down quite easily. I keep meaning to have a go at my old button with contact cleaner, apparently breathes new life into them, have kept mine as a spare just now, albeit a rather knackered spare !

Yes, as above, quite a simple job. Can't comment on the newer Kodiaq but I expect it will be a similar procedure. You do have to be careful when working around the button and the reader coil, and with the removal of the connectors. I have a very thin bladed screwdriver, maybe 3 - 4mm wide that helped tease the connectors out. New button still working great.... would also recommend changing the key fob batteries while you are at it, easy enough to do. If your keyless entry starts being intermittent it is usually the battery getting low, replaced mine twice now and for the minimal cost its worth doing once a year. Good luck..!

Hi Steve, best bet would be your local Skoda dealer to ensure you are getting the correct button for your car, based on your reg. no. Regards Dave

Good to hear, maybe worth getting another preventative oil change done just in case ? Normally when I think or say things like that, the next day/week/month the very thing I was referring to bites me in the arse !!!

Exhaust heat shield rattling or exhaust rattling off underside of body ?

Thanks for all the replies, I will have a nosy under the bonnet for the body / engine earth point and go from there. Just wanted to be sure as a blown control module would be an expensive and bad start to my new year !!

My 2014 plate is Gen 4 and this set up has the strainer on the end of the pump which needs cleaned, and also a removable/replaceable filter which must be changed at regular intervals. It is likely yours is Gen 4....have a check here... https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/what-generation-of-haldex-is-on-my-car/ Either way it is not a choice, you need the correct pump for whatever generation of Haldex unit is fitted to your car. Despite servicing as per Skoda requirements, at a Skoda dealer my pump failed at 4 years old and had to be replaced. I now change the haldex fluid at a much shorter interval, including replacing the removable filter. It is probably lack of filter change/proper service that has burned your motor out. You may need a new pump and change the filter while you are at it. My advice - don't buy from Ebay - have a look at the Haldex Repairs site above, it has everything you need to know about fault finding etc and you can order the parts you need. This is where I got my new pump and all has been fine since it was fitted two years ago. Best of luck sorting your issues. Dave

I replaced the battery just over two years ago, properly coded in by the installer. My car is a 2014 CR140 with Stop Start, the battery fitted was a decent Varta E39 (I think) AGM suitable for the car, 4 year guarantee I think... With lockdown and working from home I have been using the car a lot less, so it isn't getting run/charged as much as it normally would. With the current cold snap cranking is a bit sluggish and I wondered about giving it a full re-charge with a CTEK smart charger which has the correct AGM charging mode. I know some smart charger manufacturers say they can be fitted while the battery is in situ and connected but I fear this will damage the electronics. Disconnecting the battery seems the sensible approach, negative off first, then positive then connect up the charger. I believe radio coding shouldn't be an issue while the battery is disconnected from replies to my original post a couple of years ago. I would appreciate any advice on the best approach for charging in this type of scenario. Cheers Dave

Sounds like what was wrong with mine when I got the car, it was a flexi pipe which was rattling on mine. The clutch issue is certainly something to be aware of... Cheers

Worth having a read of these threads, not saying it is this issue but best to be aware... Does the noise vary when the clutch pedal is pressed ? https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/363426-clutch-eats-gearbox-and-bank-balance/ https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/418475-occasional-reluctance-changing-from-2nd-to-3rd/

Hi, What year and mileage ? Some folk report issues with the clutch, well reported on here if you do a search. I also had an issue with a flexi pipe which was rattling against the chassis when I first got my car, have a feel around the air filter housing area when its running. The pipe was simply cable tied back from the chassis and the noise was cured.

Just be aware, on the estate, the chrome trims are integral to the window seals I believe. Mine started to discolour while still under warranty and they had to replace the whole window on each side to rectify the issue. Its a common fault for these rear window trims. Cheers Dave

I guess silence from the forum means anyone with experience of such an issue hasn't read the post, or perhaps its a new issue, its good you posted this detail up for others. I have the exact same car as you and not been as lucky. Despite FSH I have had the Haldex pump fail and the clutch concentric cylinder went at about 40k miles.....that was a nippy bill I can tell you, made worse by extra labour due to the 4x4 arrangement that needed stripped out for a new clutch and slave cylinder. I'm still bitter about it given the age mileage but hey ho I just stumped up.... The dealer then managed to overtighten the oil filter top during a service and broke the housing....they admitted they were liable but that was another £300ish repair.....and an oil slick on my driveway.... Did the garage check the Haldex pump is still working ok if the filter was that badly blocked ? I have mine booked in next week to an independent I trust and who has haldex experience for haldex filter, oil and pump strainer clean. Well ahead of the usual service interval as I don't want another pump failure. When you say regular services, have you had the timing belt done ? It would be overdue if not. In the back of my mind I have considered the likely future EGR valve problem will probably present itself along with the prop damper issue....meantime I just keep hoping for the best. I used good fuel (Shell VP) and my car has been running the emissions fix file 9978 since I have had it with no issues thus far. I did consider a roll back and remap but decided if it aint broke......! Cheers Dave

Thats a very low mileage over 7 years...! Probably saw toothing of the rear tyres. Find somewhere who does a Hunter 3D 4 wheel alighnment, you will be surprised how much out of tolerance your car is likely to be. All four corners can be trued up and brought back into spec. Around £80 - £100, money well spent...

The place I use in Glasgow have a fixed price of £149 which includes oil, new filter and de-mount the pump to clean the strainer and new o-rings. A new pump is circa £170 quid + labour to fit. If you can get a code reader I would read the codes on the car to check the Haldex pump isn't already toast and then budget to replace whatever is needed. When I had to replace mine (thanks Skoda!) I bought the pump, oil and filter from the site already mentioned and handed these to my chosen garage to fit. Hopefully with regular proper servicing I won't need the pump done again.

Your cars will have Gen 4 Haldex which do have a replaceable filter element. Skoda do not recognise this filter on their system hence it never gets replaced. They do not remove the pump to clean the strainer either so really it is half a service that they do. See this link and it will give you a load of useful information and you can also see the replaceable filter element... https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/guide-generation-4-haldex-trouble-shooting/

Sounds like the Haldex unit is having a direct affect on the drivetrain. A lot of debate about gearbox and diff oil change intervals but Haldex is well reported at 30k miles. If it hasn't been serviced or there has been much longer service intervals there may be an issue with the mechanics within the Haldex unit rather than the usual pump/filters/ECU etc. Do you have access to a code reader such as Carista ? I would try that and see if it flags up any codes for the Haldex system. Check out this site which has a load of info on Haldex issues https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/guide-generation-4-haldex-trouble-shooting/ Let us know how you get on. Cheers Dave

What sort of mileage (km) have you done ? Has the car been well serviced ? I would have thought a general scan for faults would be the first option, see if it flags anything up rather than focusing on one particular problem. Engine mounts have been mentioned on here in the past, could also be servicing related.

Hi folks, I know this has been raised before with no conclusive feedback. Booked my car in at the dealer for an oil and filter change.... car has now done 57,500miles Asked about gearbox oil and diff oil changes....computer says no!!.....Skoda service schedule for the 4x4 Superb (and probably others) does not recognise gearbox and diff oil as serviceable items.....crazy.... Where I take my car for Haldex servicing have offered gearbox and diff oil changes for £90 each.... I am thinking 50 - 60k miles is a decent interval for sensible preventative servicing for these items.... Just interested in any thoughts or experience for anyone who has had the gearbox and diff oil changed. Will be getting the Haldex done soon and may add the gearbox and diff services in. Thanks!