TasMan

I looked for a manual 170bhp around the time I bought mine (2016) but could only find that in the auto variety. The 140 Tour De France model happened to come up at my local dealer which met my needs. I have found the 140 to be perfectly fine and driveable, happy days! You could always get it remapped, I thought about it for a while but decided it wasn't really necessary for me. Make sure any one you view has had the Haldex servicing properly done, which should be fluid change and the replaceable filter changed (which Skoda doesn't recognise) every 20 - 30K miles. If there is no evidence of the servicing there is a good chance the pump will be damaged and the car only running as 2WD. Great car if you can find a decent one.

A big job and quite a headache. Do you have access to a lift etc ? Would be interested in hearing how the repair goes and if that cures your problem. Good luck!

Yeah, thats a very good point. I can't remember what one was the culprit (Sachs or LUK) but it is well documented on here. I made sure when they replaced the clutch due to the slave cylinder failure that it was the clutch that hadn't been reported with all the failures.

Better rear suspension on the Estates that don't cause extreme inner tyre wear (despite 4 wheel alignment done when tyres replaced...) Clutch slave cylinders that don't fail at 30,000 miles with associated ££££ bill !! Grrr!

Sounds like it has been a great car. Can't comment on the noise am afraid but certainly bushes, mounts and springs all come to mind. Are you saying the noise appeared after Halfords did the work ? I recall on one of the posts engine mounts also a possible contender to check. Out of interest, with yours being the 4x4 have you been servicing your Haldex unit ? Have you had any issues with propshaft bearings ? Cheers Dave

Nice update there thanks and some good follow up points. I was the same, a bit wary of messing around with such things but take your time and with the correct part and tools its a very easy job.... the difference is night and day (with the added drama ) !

Do you have access to a code reader at all ? (I use Carista which is fairly inexpensive...) Would be worth seeing if there are any codes getting thrown up once you have the flat battery sorted out. Can a faulty alternator not cause severe battery drain ? Keep us posted thanks.

Good you have it sorted now and can enjoy it with no big repair bills! Is it a recent purchase ? If so it would be worth making sure the timing belt and water pump have been changed so that you can continue to enjoy it ! Is it 2WD or 4WD ? Cheers

Tyre condition ok ? Superbs like to chew up rear tyres which can cause sawtoothing and tyre noise (although it may be variable at different speeds...)....worth checking, especially the inner edges.

Hi, Yes you gently prise the top cover up. Trim tools are worth getting but a flat screwdriver carefully applied should do the same job, just take it easy. The Kodiaq set up might be different, can't comment on that. The Superb has the two screws at the front which you need to turn the steering wheel either way to get access, then the screw beneath the column which isn't obvious. Releasing the adjustment lever should allow the bottom trim to then drop down quite easily. I keep meaning to have a go at my old button with contact cleaner, apparently breathes new life into them, have kept mine as a spare just now, albeit a rather knackered spare !

Yes, as above, quite a simple job. Can't comment on the newer Kodiaq but I expect it will be a similar procedure. You do have to be careful when working around the button and the reader coil, and with the removal of the connectors. I have a very thin bladed screwdriver, maybe 3 - 4mm wide that helped tease the connectors out. New button still working great.... would also recommend changing the key fob batteries while you are at it, easy enough to do. If your keyless entry starts being intermittent it is usually the battery getting low, replaced mine twice now and for the minimal cost its worth doing once a year. Good luck..!

Hi Steve, best bet would be your local Skoda dealer to ensure you are getting the correct button for your car, based on your reg. no. Regards Dave

Good to hear, maybe worth getting another preventative oil change done just in case ? Normally when I think or say things like that, the next day/week/month the very thing I was referring to bites me in the arse !!!

Exhaust heat shield rattling or exhaust rattling off underside of body ?

Thanks for all the replies, I will have a nosy under the bonnet for the body / engine earth point and go from there. Just wanted to be sure as a blown control module would be an expensive and bad start to my new year !!

My 2014 plate is Gen 4 and this set up has the strainer on the end of the pump which needs cleaned, and also a removable/replaceable filter which must be changed at regular intervals. It is likely yours is Gen 4....have a check here... https://www.haldexrepairs.co.uk/what-generation-of-haldex-is-on-my-car/ Either way it is not a choice, you need the correct pump for whatever generation of Haldex unit is fitted to your car. Despite servicing as per Skoda requirements, at a Skoda dealer my pump failed at 4 years old and had to be replaced. I now change the haldex fluid at a much shorter interval, including replacing the removable filter. It is probably lack of filter change/proper service that has burned your motor out. You may need a new pump and change the filter while you are at it. My advice - don't buy from Ebay - have a look at the Haldex Repairs site above, it has everything you need to know about fault finding etc and you can order the parts you need. This is where I got my new pump and all has been fine since it was fitted two years ago. Best of luck sorting your issues. Dave

I replaced the battery just over two years ago, properly coded in by the installer. My car is a 2014 CR140 with Stop Start, the battery fitted was a decent Varta E39 (I think) AGM suitable for the car, 4 year guarantee I think... With lockdown and working from home I have been using the car a lot less, so it isn't getting run/charged as much as it normally would. With the current cold snap cranking is a bit sluggish and I wondered about giving it a full re-charge with a CTEK smart charger which has the correct AGM charging mode. I know some smart charger manufacturers say they can be fitted while the battery is in situ and connected but I fear this will damage the electronics. Disconnecting the battery seems the sensible approach, negative off first, then positive then connect up the charger. I believe radio coding shouldn't be an issue while the battery is disconnected from replies to my original post a couple of years ago. I would appreciate any advice on the best approach for charging in this type of scenario. Cheers Dave

Sounds like what was wrong with mine when I got the car, it was a flexi pipe which was rattling on mine. The clutch issue is certainly something to be aware of... Cheers

Worth having a read of these threads, not saying it is this issue but best to be aware... Does the noise vary when the clutch pedal is pressed ? https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/363426-clutch-eats-gearbox-and-bank-balance/ https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/418475-occasional-reluctance-changing-from-2nd-to-3rd/

Hi, What year and mileage ? Some folk report issues with the clutch, well reported on here if you do a search. I also had an issue with a flexi pipe which was rattling against the chassis when I first got my car, have a feel around the air filter housing area when its running. The pipe was simply cable tied back from the chassis and the noise was cured.

Just be aware, on the estate, the chrome trims are integral to the window seals I believe. Mine started to discolour while still under warranty and they had to replace the whole window on each side to rectify the issue. Its a common fault for these rear window trims. Cheers Dave

Hi folks, I know this has been raised before with no conclusive feedback. Booked my car in at the dealer for an oil and filter change.... car has now done 57,500miles Asked about gearbox oil and diff oil changes....computer says no!!.....Skoda service schedule for the 4x4 Superb (and probably others) does not recognise gearbox and diff oil as serviceable items.....crazy.... Where I take my car for Haldex servicing have offered gearbox and diff oil changes for £90 each.... I am thinking 50 - 60k miles is a decent interval for sensible preventative servicing for these items.... Just interested in any thoughts or experience for anyone who has had the gearbox and diff oil changed. Will be getting the Haldex done soon and may add the gearbox and diff services in. Thanks!

My car was in at the local dealer for a service and they commented the Start Stop button was sticking. I had noticed it was needing a bit more of a positive push but not had any bother so far starting or stopping, got the knack of working it I guess... Is this an easy DIY replacement job ? I have been quoted £124 incl VAT for replacement, the switch is around £40 apparently (part number 3V0905217AWHS ?) I read on here that electrical contact cleaner is a good option to try, any thoughts ? Certainly don't want to be caught out for the sake of a switch...! Thanks

Seeking some advice on toe and camber settings following a 4 wheel alignment done this morning.... After getting a full set of new tyres I booked in for a 4 wheel alignment locally. The rear passenger side tyre was badly worn on the inside so things were clearly out of adjustment, seems to be a common Superb Estate issue.... The garage was using a Hunter system and gave before and after prints as attached. Anyway, I am not convinced on the new settings and questioned these at the time, but was told 'its a 4 wheel alignment and we only ever adjust the toe, and not the camber as its not adjustable...?!' I got a second opinion elsewhere (Kwik Fit of all places....) and was advised everything should be 'green' suggesting camber is adustable. I questioned the original garage again but was pretty much told they only advertise 'alignment' and not camber.... Am I wrong to expect the camber to be part of the deal on a 4 wheel alignment ? Left Front and Rear camber appear out of tolerance, and worse than before alignment...should I be getting this re-done ....? Thanks Before After