TasMan

Hard to say, what sort of journeys are you doing ? (short/long) Does the engine get up to temperature fully ? My 2014 has the CFFB engine, the fix was applied by the dealer before I got the car (unfortunately!) but its been ok. Used to get 220 - 240 miles between regens but this has dropped to 120 - 180ish depending on journeys. I assume the shorter intervals must relate to gradual oil ash build up in the DPF.

A simple possibility could be one of the heat shields has dropped down. They are thin aluminium sheet and will create a buzz/rattle if loose. Worth checking from front to back. The clips rust through and can be replaced cheaply. I had this at the rear of my car. Also the exhaust sleeve in the middle of the system became loose, the clamps had rotted and it needed replaced. Hopefully be something simple.

A negative reading on the egr cooler sensor could suggest the sensor is faulty ? I'm not too familiar with the arrangement but assume the sensor could be replaced. Maybe it is failing safe and causing the aux pump to run continuously and over cooling the engine ? Just a thought...🤞

Hi, Interesting thread, for a couple of years my car has done this occasionally. Get out the car and close the door and the locking goes a bit wild, locking and unlocking maybe 4 - 5 times. Holding the unlock button on the fob seems to get it under control. It can be fine for a while then plays up again. It's been doing it a lot more recently and last weekend I repaired the wiring at the drivers door which were found with the usual broken insulation, chewed wires etc...couple of cables replaced, others heat shrink applied. Been fine all week until today and its started up again. Either my repair is failing or I'm suspicious the drivers door mechanism is faulty. I can close the door almost fully with no problems, but as soon as I click the door shut it then plays up. Suggests this is to do with the microswitches in the latch mechanism ? I'll be checking the wiring again and will also check the other doors but I'm suspicious of the latch. Anyone replaced the latch mechanism ?

Ah, apologies I hadn't realised where you are located ! Yeah sounds easier to buy new wheels ! I used a company in Kilmarnock (Stiggy Motorsport), dropped off 8am, picked up 5pm same day. Really pleased with the service and finish. My wheels are a dark anthracite non standard? colour but they managed to come up with a match.

Worth looking at getting your wheels refurbished (stripped, blasted and powdercoated). I had mine done 3ish years ago now, made a huge difference to the look and also no more losing air which was the main issue. Probably around £250 for 4, some places do a same day turnaround. Cheers

Afternoon all... Just had an issue with my (now getting on a bit) Superb after topping up the washer, the bonnet wouldn't latch shut. It just bounced back up when trying to close resulting in panic/stress as its needed for work.. I pulled the release lever and tried again and it closed this time thankfully but seeking thoughts on how to proceed without getting stuck with an open bonnet. I didn't want to re-open until prepared to deal with it to avoid being stuck... The release lever has been stiff for as long as I can remember despite regular dosing the latch mechanism with WD40/lithium grease spray, just assumed it was a Superb trait... The catch lever under the bonnet is very free moving as I know that can seize up. I guess a couple of questions - Can you get to the cable end to lubricate directly, couldn't really see ? Thinking I will direct copious amounts of spray into the cable end. Is there a joint in the cable or mechanism under the slam panel which needs lubricating ? Any recommended spray lubricant ? (I have been using white lithium with no issues until now...) Is it better to replace the cable entirely ? (anyone have a part number or diagram of the installation ?) UPDATE 28/02/26 So I have basically answered my questions with a bit of investigation and I'd recommend any Mk2 owner doing this as a bit of preventative maintenance. Cleaned up the bonnet latch with a load of brake cleaner which got rid of a lot of old white lithium grease that had congeled along with a bit or road dirt etc. Did the same for the release mechanism lever which was already free but did no harm. I then had a poke around and found the cable joint mechanism under the slam panel just above the nearside headlamp. This is held by a couple of clips which easily pulls off to give better access to the arrangement. I know that this housing is where the cable joint can get detached but mine remained intact. The housing clearly can come apart which means spray oil can penetrate so I doused about half a can of 'Rocket' spray into each end of the cable, and also all over. A rag placed beneath caught all the drips. I worked the release lever and immediately noticed a massive difference, it has freed up hugely and is now springing back as you'd expect. So this joint housing seems to be the cause of a lot of the sticking issues so a liberal douse of spray every so often should keep it free and might stop your bonnet cable becoming detached. Many thanks Dave

Thanks that sounds a good result. Was this via an independent garage I assume ? I imagine a main dealer would be 2 or 3 times that...! I'll need to look into it, currently got a door wiring glitch to deal with thats just started this week....🤔

Hi, Spotted your post as looking into a possible issue with the main thermostat on my Superb. Cabin heats up ok on mine, not a DSG box so reckon it must be the main stat needing replaced. Did your repair go ok, and what was they rough cost at the end of the day ? Thanks !

Thanks folks, I'll need to look into what's involved. Would likely get a garage to do this for me, time is very limited unfortunately.

Many thanks ! My car is a 2014 facelift model but I think they do one for this, bit more expensive at £49 though... My car is a manual 2.0TDI CFFB engine, been struggling to get up to running temperature since the weather has changed a couple of months ago no matter the journey type. Makes me wonder if the thermostat is faulty...🤔

Good to hear you're issues are sorted. Would you be able to share where you got your grille cover from ?

If you go for 4WD try to find out if the Haldex unit has been properly serviced. These will be Gen4 I think which involves a removable filter and fluid change. Skoda don't recognise they have a removable filter so they often won't get changed and then block up which causes the pump to burn out. They also need the pump to be demounted to clean the strainer. The control units are also known to go faulty as the cover corrodes which damages the PCB. I know from experience having had to deal with all of the above...! Haldex however can be fully serviced as a DIY job if confident enough. I have no experience on DSG boxes (mine is a manual) but I know there can be issues if not serviced. Manual box is great but the clutch slave cylinders are known weak points. Estates can be bad for rear inner wall tyre wear, worth checking that, you have to bend right down to get a close look at the inner edges. Mine has done nearly 100k miles now and has had front and rear lower arms due to corrosion and wear, track rod ends, front and rear springs, front top mounts...plus usual servicing, brakes etc. Try to get one with good service history, receipts etc.

Seems to be a very common issue, my 2014 FL tailgate is corroding, seems to have started on the right hand numberplate lamp and has spread around this and up onto the rear outer panel where the badges sit. Not pretty looking. I am tempted to rub down and try and rust treat the corrosion and then paint with some sort of rust proofing paint, and rather than re-spray possibly get a small section of wrap done, maybe black or dark grey along this panel width. Cheap/nasty option but unless I fully replace or cut out the rot its just going to come back through. Despite FSH with Skoda, unless you ask for the body inspection service this is not done and they can then squirm out the anti-corrosion warranty...at least thats my view on it...

Hi Carlston, Many thanks for this detailed information, really appreciated. I'll check out that VIN decoder as that seems very useful to have. I'm assuming that my car has standard suspension at the moment unless I find out otherwise. Cheers Dave

My 2014 Tour De France estate (140BHP 4x4) has now done 98k miles and is needing a bit of time/money spent on refreshing the suspension. I was looking at Bilstein B4 shock absorbers which are OE spec but there are two varieties.... 'standard suspension' and cars with 'sports suspension'. I'm not really sure what spec was standard on this model and wondered if the code label in the boot would confirm ? Was going to start with the rear which has already had lower arms and springs for the MOT last year but the rest is needing looked at. Anti roll bar is particularly crusty along with the shock absorber tubes. Scottish winters and road salt haven't been kind... Thanks Dave

Interesting to see this and well done on getting this done. Have you noticed any difference in performance / response ? What mileage is your car ? I see someone else had posted up a while ago on this process, it all sounds easy/straight forward but likely never the case...! Cleaning V157 throttle body valve - Skoda Superb Guides - BRISKODA

The only aspect I can pass on to check from experience on my Mk2 are the brake disc dust shields. These are prone to rot through and can create rattling and metallic grinding noises. Easy enough and cheap to replace. Have a look at them through the wheel and give them a prod and you will soon know if they are rotted out! My Mk2 is a 2014, 97k miles and I've recently had to replace all the suspension arms due to bush wear/corrosion. Rear springs have also been changed and I'm about to get the front springs done as one had just been picked up on MOT as broken. Largely down to the state of the roads as I am very much aware of avoiding potholes and slowing down for speed bumps etc. Once you have everything sorted a 4 wheel alignment would be a good idea. Cheers Dave

Sounds a great result. My 2014 is around 97k miles now. Still feels ok suspension wise but I expect its matured like an old couch does and I would notice the difference if done! Its getting on a bit now but to get a similar spec newer vehicle its silly money. I'll keep mine a few years yet I reckon. I did have to replace all suspension arms within the last year due to MOT reports.

Ideal thanks...! Its a 2014 so I will bear that in mind about the screws/clips. I had to buy new ones for the engine undertray as several had rotted and the tray was sagging, I assume probably much the same. I'll maybe leave it to the spring and then give it a go. Cheers !

Being lazy here and not going outside to look at my car, I assume its quite an easy job to pull back the liners ? Wheel off and undo the screws around the wheelarch ? Anything else to be aware of ? Thanks!

I keep an eye on regens using the VAG DPF app and Carista OBD2 bluetooth scanner. Always try and allow a regen to complete before parking up or stopping the engine, even if I have to drive a mile or two longer to allow it to complete.

I'm not 100% sure either on that but I expect it is largely down to the map and maybe some things like injectors, fuel pressure etc ? I could get mine re-mapped up to 170ish but then after near 8 years of ownership I'm quite used to the 140 and never felt it underpowered. A pal had a diesel re-mapped and not long after had turbo failure and a £2k bill, co-incidence maybe.... I'm surprised my model (Tour de France 4x4) wasn't offered as standard with the 170 as it would be quite an attractive model when new. Yep, I'm the same, never dry steer and very cautious of having to mount kerbs etc. I have just had the 4 wheels refurbished a few months back so I'm even more careful to avoid wrecking the job ! Its away for its MOT this morning so will see what that brings...😱

Totally agree, maintenance pays dividends long term and driving habits can save a lot of wear and tear. Its a machine at the end of the day and if its abused by crashing over speed bumps and pot holes and stretched service intervals then it will eventually pay you back with problems ! I'm exactly the same, hate all the speed bumps, often have folk tailgating while I crawl over them. Sounds a nice well maintained car you have, mine is the 140 CFFB which has been more than adequate. I thought about a remap but if it isn't broke don't fix it...!

Any evidence of leaks around the windscreen ? I had to reseal the top of my screen recently, only noticed when I washed the car water running down the inside of the screen (driver side top corner). Before fixing I had water dripping down badly from the screen down onto the steering wheel, seat and into the footwell. A tube of Puraflex 40 from Toolstation has sorted that out, neatly tooled down with a sealant smoother tool. Might be worth checking. Cheers