TasMan

I've had a fault with the right rear parking sensor for a while and finally investigated assuming it was a dodgy sensor or corroded connector but it turns out to be a one of the wires has been nicked or rubbed through... I'm thinking about cutting out this bad section and soldering fresh ends together, with a short piece of wire if needed to make up the length...I assume that should work pending no other breaks in the wire ? Failing that, does anyone know the part number for the loom ? I've had a search of the forum but couldn't find any previous reference. Thanks Dave

Interesting thread, when my 2.0TDI (CFFB engine) slave cylinder failed, the pedal stuck to the floor and there was quite a bit of fluid leak from the bellhousing. Bugger of a job on a 4x4 with extra labour to dismantle....I'm hoping to run the car a while longer and just hope I don't have this issue again.... ££££££ !!!

It might be worth asking around in case its a batch of contaminated fuel...? Seems odd how after re-fuelling you suddenly have an issue. Its not unknown for fuel stations to have contaminated fuels with water, or fuels getting mixed up at tanker delivery stage. Also, if run very low you could have pulled dirt/air into the system, maybe needing filters changed and purged of air...?

This happened to my 2014 Superb and was early failure of the clutch slave cylinder. I noticed the clutch seemed to be slipping for a few days before then one morning the pedal dropped to the floor and clutch operation failed. Required new clutch, slave cylinder etc @ 4 years old.... There was quite a lot of fluid loss present when the AA guy turned up, had to be recovered to the garage for repair.

Definitely sounds like the normal regen process. You can actively monitor your regens and DPF health via your phone (if keen!). Get a Carista or similar OBD reader and plug it in to the car. Download the VAG DPF app and connect it up via bluetooth to your reader. I found this link quite informative... https://www.hypermiler.co.uk/dpf-diesel-particulate-filter/vag-dpf-review-andriod-vag-dpf-monitor-app I try and allow my car to fully complete the regen process each time, not sure it makes a difference but I'm an engineer with OCD and it just seems like the right thing to do lol... Cheers Dave

Looks like the Haldex coupling unit or differential. Seems a bit caked ? I'd maybe give it a good clean and then monitor for evidence of any leaks. When you mention oil change, I assume engine oil and not the Haldex fluid ? Might be worth checking when your Haldex was last serviced if you don't know the history. They need the fluid, filter changed and pump strainer cleaned every 30k. Cheers Dave

Hi folks, Another gremlin this morning , seems to be related to the driver door, locking seems to randomly lock/unlock. After a few seconds the fob will eventually allow the car to unlock. I can then get the door to lock and it seems to stop cycling. Aware of the drivers door wiring loom issue and will check this out, however I have pulled the code 01038 Central Locking Thermal Protection. Just wondered if anyone else has had this, and whether it was related to the loom or door lock actuator ? These things always come up just before going away on holiday, don't want to be stuck 😱 Phoned local dealer this morning (Ingram Ayr) in the hope of some assistance but they were no help at all, earliest diagnostic booking was August due to lack of diagnostic techs ?!

I tend to run 2.4/2.5 on the front and around 2.8 bar on the rears. This is a compromise between the pressure when lightly loaded or fully loaded. Its definitely helped my tyre wear over the years when combined with a 4 wheel alignment. I got 30K miles out of my last set of CrossClimates and that was with 2 - 3mm left. Is yours an Estate ? I had one pair or rears wear down badly on the inner shoulder, new tyres and a 4 wheel alignment sorted that out, been fine since then. Cheers

Hi, Just checking, was it the BA15S bulbs in your Ebay link that are the correct ones ? Thanks

Hi, Just to note your car will be Gen 4 Haldex at 2014, same as mine. Definitely worth keeping an eye on any further codes and to get the filter swapped out at some point, along with pump strainer cleaned. Cheers

I thought the interval was 30k, however I'm possibly wrong... Skoda don't do it right no matter if you follow their service schedule 😠 In any case, and going by experience and also from others reporting similar issues, reducing the interval to 20k or 2 years should drastically reduce the pump failure issue. The other weak point is the Haldex ECU which corrodes over time due to exposure to the elements underneath. This causes water ingress to the PCB and corrosion and then faults, its almost unavoidable and time/environment related. I am trying to get this sorted on mine just now and will report back in due course. Cheers

Welcome to Skoda ownership! I guess it could be a few things and a search on this forum could give further clues. When the car is idling are is there any noise ? The most common rattling type noise that is reported on here is the dual mass flywheel (DMF) issue. Might be worth a read up on this, plenty on here about the subject, your symptoms might not be the same though. Propshaft damper coupling is also a possibility on a 4x4 but then it would remain at a constantish speed if the car is moving, until you accelerate or slow down...? Worth checking out though. Unrelated - Do you know if your Haldex unit has been properly serviced ? Its my old bug bear from bitter experience. If you are not aware they need the fluid changed every 20k approx and the removable filter changed. Skoda do not have the filter on their servicing system and it never gets done resulting in the Haldex pump clogging up and burning out. If you have a code reader it might be worth plugging it in to see if there are any faults lurking. I use Carista which is very handy. Cheers Dave

Thanks for the replies... I should have been more specific, I'm aware of the Haldex servicing requirements, the bitterness of my pump failure in 2018 despite servicing as per Skoda schedule and getting no support from my dealer took a while to simmer down lol Even telling the dealer about the replaceable filter and the servicing requirements, I was pretty much told "Its not on our system and we don't know about it !!" Since then I have been using an independent with an interval of 2 years and approx 16k miles, well ahead of Skoda's recommendation. After the new pump, filter and fluid fitted Nov 2018 it was done again Sept 2020@16k interval and I was about to get it done this month again just over 2 years@16k miles interval. Hence 4 years trouble free motoring until now. I was wondering about disabling the Haldex via pulling the fuse and whether that would cause any issues until I get it sorted out...? I've been watching a few Youtube videos on the subject and as Del8oy has noted its a couple of bolts to remove. I hadn't realised when you pull off the ECU it is directly linked to the control valve and you can't drive the car any further due to the oil loss potential. Seems a poor design really. Currently looking at my options... can't really afford the car off the road while I send the unit away for repair so will see what I can come up with. If I had better facilities to safely work on the car I would do it all myself, certainly not going near Skoda ££££ ! Cheers Dave

Hi All, After 4 years trouble free 4x4 motoring since replacing the pump on my Haldex unit it seems I have a new issue to deal with.... I have the error code 02248 Valve for controlling clutch operating angle. I am noticing when I pull up to junctions or traffic lights, when in neutral the engine seems to labour slightly for a few seconds and I feel a slight bump at the rear as if something is disengaging. This is what prompted me to check for faults as I suspected a Haldex issue. I have been in touch with Matt at Auto Fault Finder (excellent Haldex Repairs Website) and it is looking like the common issue of a fault with the Haldex controller caused by corrosion on the PCB. Usually repairable but involves sending the controller away for diagnostic/repair. Looking for any advice on the following if anyone has had to do this:- How to remove the controller (I believe it is straightforward enough) ? Until I get a chance to get the controller sent away I am wondering if disabling the Haldex by pulling the fuse is possible ? Fuse 29 is the Haldex unit, often pulled by tuners when remapping on a 2WD rolling road set up to prevent the rears turning. Does pulling this fuse affect anything else ? As much as 4x4 makes for an excellent driving experience with the Superb, it really does seem to be quite a fragile and troublesome option to maintain.... Cheers Dave

Yes, very easy job. I had the same issue and ordered a new button from the dealer and changed it out myself, still working very well with minimal effort pushing the button. Follow the story here.... Cheers Dave

Ideally you want to find a garage that has experience of Haldex. Many say they do but I was amazed by various VAG specialists in Central Scotland that do not change the removable filter. At 2013 yours will be Gen 4 I would think so will have the removable filter. I bought the kit from here... Gen 4 Haldex Pump Replacement Kit for VW Audi Seat Skoda 0AY598549A – Haldex Parts and ECU Repairs by Auto Fault Finder Ltd (haldexrepairs.co.uk) Good service and genuine parts (that was 4 years ago I think). I got a local tuning/upgrade company in Glasgow who have Haldex experience to change everything out and I think it was £120 The pump is the expensive part unfortunately. Have you put a code reader on your car to check what codes are coming up ? The Haldex Repairs site above has some very good information pages on the subject. I still bitterly bang the drum that despite following the Skoda servicing schedule, my pump burned out and I had to get it replaced lol ! I now do the fluid and filter every two years instead of the recommended 3. Cheers

I got 4 new Crossclimate 2's fitted last month, they were just under £450 and I received a £50 cashback deal. I used a local tyre/alignment centre and worked out a package deal to include for a 4 wheel Hunter alignment at the same time. Typically a 4 wheel alignment will be around £60 - 90 depending on where you go. They should give you before and after screenshots of the alignment. They may have to heat the adjustment bolts but the key thing is making sure they do the adjustment and let the car sit for 10 - 15 mins to allow the bolts to cool down. It is surprising how much the alignment changes with the thermal expansion, I was able to watch the alignment change on the machine as they cooled. Once cooled they were given a final adjustment to get the alignment correct. Some places may heat the adjusters, get it aligned but not re-check when cool. Have a look around for pricing, try BlackCircles or phone up a couple of tyre dealers and say what tyres you want and what you want to spend, they may be happy to do you a deal. Cheers

Michelin were doing a cashback deal recently if bought from a participating dealer. Can't fault the Crossclimates but appreciate they are pricey. I have the 140 4x4 Estate and got 30k miles out of my last set of Crossclimates with 3mm left, running them at slightly higher tyre pressure seems to help wear. If I was considering another tyre I would also consider Uniroyal Rainsports. A 4 wheel alignment after a set of tyres is also a good idea, no point in having a new set of tyres scrubbing from day one!

Just back a weeks holiday in the Peak District. Two long runs on the M6 south/north, car fully loaded plus roof box, tyre pressures adjusted. 2014, 2.0 tdi 140 CFFB 4x4 manual Estate Average MPG with a combination of cruise control or feathering pedal was 42 - 47MPG with some peaks of 54MPG. In 6 years of ownership typical MPG has been 42 pretty much constant. Always try to use VPower Diesel or BP Ultimate, however with the current fuel prices it is a thought to keep using the premium fuels 🥵 Its away for its MOT today....fingers crossed !

Spot on Mike. I am one of those owners who had the Haldex pump fail despite rigorously sticking to the Skoda servicing requirements. It was only after the pump failed (when I had assumed servicing was being done correctly) that I found the Haldex Repairs website and the truth became clear. I too had the discussion with my local Skoda dealer and they were adamant that it wasn't in the 'system' and isn't a part they recognised. Hence all they do is drop the fluid and refill with new. Pointless when the filter and pump strainer are blocking up. I now get an independant to do mine every 20k or 2 years approx as I really don't want the cost and hassle of another pump replacement. The same place did the repairs and I bought the pump, filter etc from the supplier you mention. The Haldex servicing nonsense is almost on a par with the emissions scandal, plenty of Haldex equipped Skoda's out there that will likely be knackered..... As you can guess I am pretty bitter about the whole thing lol ! Great post and I hope others pick up on it. Cheers

Sounds like a Haldex fault, if you have an OBD device you can plug in and get any codes for the all wheel drive system. The Haldex Repairs website gives you chapter and verse on the codes and issues. I had the pump fail on mine despite Skoda servicing to the book - they don't change the removable filter that they claim doesn't exist resulting in the pump burning out. I now take mine to an independent with Haldex experience and service every 2 years or 20,000 miles to try and head off any further trouble.... Cheers

Hi, Do you still have the tray available ? Thanks

I've got the 2.0 140 (CFFB engine) in a 4x4 Superb and it is plenty adequate for every day use. I occasionally tow a heavy trailer and have no issues. Plenty of low down power and quick off the mark. When I first got it I thought about getting a remap to 170, but figured it was fine for my needs. MPG is approx 42 - 45 consistently, probably be a bit better for non-4x4.

Sounds ominously like the concentric slave cylinder which if you have the 2litre diesel will be in the centre of the clutch - gearbox out job. I had the exact same symptoms a few years ago and had to get the car recovered to the dealer, new clutch and slave cylinder was required, Skoda gave some goodwill but still had a big bill at the end of it. The cylinder was leaking fluid onto the clutch which ruined the clutch as well as the failed cylinder to be replaced. I had noticed mild clutch slippage first thing in the morning for a day or two but hadn't realised that was the impending issue... Is yours 2WD or 4WD ? Mine is 4WD so the job was even worse as a lot more labour/dismantling was needed. Sorry to be the bearer of bad/expensive news... Hope you get it sorted out.

Check your rear tyres for saw toothing on the inner edges. More common on the estates but wouldn't rule it out as a simple fix on any Superb. Check tyre wear all round and tyre pressures. Any uneven wear would suggest a 4 wheel alignment is needed. However if it is that severe, sounds like skomaz has a more viable suggestion... How many miles has your car done out of interest ?