Snaefell

This from VW regarding their CHYA/B Citigo engines. The belt service schedule is to inspect at 240k km (160k miles) and replace if necessary, there is no time limit.

The engine manufacturer of the CHYA & B engines, VW, recommend inspecting the cambelt at 240k km (160k mile) intervals, and to replace if necessary. There is no time limit. All covered in the service manual (below). My 2016 cambelt is on 95k miles and running as smooth as silk.

Located in the spare wheel well. Example below.

You could bleed the clutch slave cylinder to ensure the release bearing is getting full travel. Does gear selection get any easier once it's warm? Is it easier to select 1st and reverse if the wheels are moving (very) slowly? It's unlikely to be pressure plate related, try the easy 'solutions' first.

>I didn't know you could get filters with a hexagon on the end. Bosch oil filter Part # P3318 fits the CHYA/B engines. The hex is to aid removal, not fitting.

Hi Mavver:- Have you carried out the following diagnostic test, and if so, what were the results? To test for 'neutral gear rollover', park on a hill and select neutral. With the clutch engaged (pedal not depressed) and the engine running, allow the vehicle to roll downhill. If the noise subsides at about 10-15 mph, you have 'rollover'.

To test for 'neutral gear rollover', park on a hill and select neutral. With the clutch engaged (pedal not depressed) and the engine running, allow the vehicle to roll downhill. If the noise subsides at about 10-15 mph, you have 'rollover'. This from Volkswagen:- This is a documented issue acknowledged by VW and is the result of the car NOT having a dual Mass Flywheel, the device that has been causing some serious trouble on older cars. It is covered under the VW technical product information notice below that basically tells you there is nothing to worry about and nothing that can be done to stop it. Rattling noise from engine bay at idle vehicles fitted with 02S 5 speed manual gearbox (UK TPI) Release date: 05-Dec-2012 Technical product information Transaction No.: 2032109/1 Customer statement / workshop findings Rattling noise from the engine bay area with the engine running at idle. Technical background Neutral gear rollover noise describes the condition whereby a rattling noise from the constant mesh gearing in the transmission is heard while the engine idles with the clutch engaged (pedal released). It is caused by engine torsional vibration and is particularly prevalent on vehicles with a single mass flywheel and low idle speed requirements. The intensity of neutral gear rollover noise will increase with transmission temperature and / or an increase of torque loading, for example air conditioning or heated rear window activation. The rollover noise is inherent to transmission design and will disappear when a gear is selected and the vehicle is driven. The noise is not detrimental to the transmission or engine components and does not constitute a manufacturing defect. Production change None. Measure When evaluating transmission complaints please draw on the statements above when assessing the complaint, remembering to account for engine refinement, gear selection “feel”, and clutch operation. Warranty accounting instructions Normal warranty guidelines apply. Parts information No parts information. Customer information Neutral gear rollover noise will not negatively affect the longevity or performance of the vehicle. It is concept related and does not constitute a manufacturing defect.

I replaced the brake fluid a while back. Approx. 50k miles on a Feb 16 (manufactured) Citigo Colours. Skoda recommend bleeding in the following order:- O/S/R, N/S/R, O/S/F and finally N/S/F. They also suggest pressurising the system at 2 bar (~30psi) minimum to counter the ABS pump. Engine and ignition off. All worked fine for me. I would suggest checking the water content of the new fluid, and at regular intervals to determine whether the fluid does indeed need changing at the figures quoted. I should have checked the old fluid as it was removed but didn't have a gauge. Good luck. Forgot to add that the brake fluid service schedule is to replace a 36 months and every 24 months thereafter - irrespective of mileage. Fluid specification is:- VW 501.14

You could try 'tyre sticks'. Relatively inexpensive at under £10 and possible to carry out repair without removing the wheel. I've used them to good effect in an emergency. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nCwWPlaghfs

It may be that a previous owner has fitted a heavier grade transmission fluid to mask 'gear rollover' and this higher viscosity is making gear selection more difficult. The recommended oil is SAE G052 527 at 1.1 litre capacity. Filler plug shown below.

Try bleeding the clutch at the slave cylinder prior to clutch replacement.

>"Do I need to check the tension on it?" Not in the normal course of operation i.e. the service life of the belt. I'm surprised the belt has been changed on an 2015 vehicle as VW (the engine manufacturer) doesn't have a time limit for the PTFE reinforced belt; and the service schedule states to check the belt after 160k miles (240k km) and to replace if necessary. The cam gears are trioval in design and the belt tension is carried out harmonically at Top Dead Centre.

I'm an Isle of Man resident and therefore not part of the UK - it's a Crown Dependency. There are no plans to introduce E10 compliant fuels in the island. We're told the E10 additive is blended with the base fuel at the refinery and that this additional process won't be completed prior to shipment across the Irish Sea. This info may allay concerns with fellow residents. Thanks.

I think the light sensor for the instrument lights is in the face of the rev counter, below the spindle. Either that or the same place on the fuel gauge. It's about 10mm in diameter and difficult to see as it's the same colour as the clock face. It can be tested in poor light conditions (i.e. instrument lights off) by shining the pencil beam of a small torch on the sensor and see if the instrument lights illuminate. Needless to say the test should be carried out with the headlights off. If you wish to have the instrument lights on at all times, you will need to bypass the light sensor (probably best done at the ECU). I understand it's configured this way to discourage drivers from driving without headlamps in poor light conditions.

Very basic On-Board Diagnostic (OBD2) code readers can be had for sub-£20. They will give the basic codes that are logged in the ECU memory and will also cancel the codes once you've read them; i.e. will switch off the dashboard MIL lamp. They are easy to use and are powered by the cars electrical system, so no need to worry about batteries etc. You can keep it in the glove box. Once you've got the code/s, just Google to determine what they relate to. On the Citigo, the OBD plug is located above the drivers feet under the dash. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154509962715?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338792760&toolid=10001&customid=EAIaIQobChMI1PDWl5qO8gIVCAsGAB1QNwAtEAQYASABEgKOgPD_BwE&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI1PDWl5qO8gIVCAsGAB1QNwAtEAQYASABEgKOgPD_BwE

Perhaps consider an electric Citigo/Mii/Up! Or throw yourself at the mercy of Consultant Orthopaedic surgeon, Mr Hutchinson (Nobles Hosp. Isle of Man) who replaced my knee to very good effect; slightly north of £10k at current market rates. But saving a fortune on ibuprofen tablets.

>Sorry if this seems pedantic, but it just sounds so wrong to my ears to hear 'PTFE reinforcement'. The PTFE coating reinforces (i.e. strengthens or supports) the cambelt. The reduction in friction allowed by the PTFE coating gives a cooler running belt which lasts longer as a result. Similarly the trioval cam gears reduce belt tension when it isn't required. And the powder metallurgy cam gear production process gives a smoother surface finish without the sharp edges found on hobbed gears. VW have done their development and recommend the service schedule accordingly. As previously mentioned the CHYA/B belts aren't to be associated with the rubber cambelts of say the 70's Ford etc. All that said, if owners wish to choose a different service schedule than specified by the designer/developer/manufacturer, that's their choice and one I respect. But, there's no engineering reason to do so. So all the single parents out there on a very limited motoring budget (myself included) can rest easy knowing the cambelt doesn't need replacing at 60k/5 year intervals as advised by some Skoda dealerships. Respectfully yours...Snaefell (2016 - Citigo Colours currently at 72k miles on the original cambelt).

VW don't specify a time limit, only mileage; but at an average 15k per year (approx.) it's good for 10+ years. The cambelt is PTFE reinforced, not rubber like the 1970's Cortina. And the cam gears are trioval in design. All this research and development allows the 160k mile extended service schedule as listed above. It's perfectly acceptable to change the belt prematurely for 'piece of mind' - and if the owner has the money, but it's totally unnecessary from an engineering point of view. My 2016 Citigo Colours recently passed 71k miles on the original belt and I plan to inspect it in late 2023, I'll report back with my findings at that time.

VW recommend inspecting the PTFE reinforced cambelt at 160k miles and to change if necessary. There is no specified time limit. My 2016 Colours model has just passed 70k miles on the original belt without issues.

>"Would probably enjoy a new cam belt...". Not at 12k miles it wouldn't. VW recommend inspection at 160k miles, there is no required time limit specified. Could save yourself £'s by sticking to manufacturer guidelines.

> "Might be because it’s got 35000 miles on it". The PTFE reinforced cam belt and trioval cam gears will be due and inspection (and replace as necessary) at 160k miles, there's no specified time limit.

My 2016 Colours model has hill start assist (HSA). It can be a nuisance e.g. if you're wanting to reverse downhill without using the gears, say from a parking spot. Or if you're nosing out into traffic and want to roll backwards if the traffic is busy. I've got to be honest, first time I noticed the HSA thought the park brake was sticking on...

Spark plug socket is 16mm - across the flats - for both NGK and Bosch plugs. Plug gap is 1.00mm (0.040"). Service interval is 40k miles, no time limit specified. Spark plug torque is 25Nm. Best to apply some grease to the thread prior to fitting.

To diagnose 'neutral gear rollover', on a hill apply the park brake and let the engine idle with the clutch engaged i.e. no foot on pedal. It should show the knocking symptoms described. Release the park brake and, in neutral, let the vehicle roll down the hill. At about 5-10mph the knocking should cease as the gears are loaded via the rotating driveshafts. This is quite common for this transmission and isn't clutch related. My 2016 Colours model started knocking at about 5k miles and currently still does it at 70k miles. The transmission works perfectly, albeit noisily. Other contributing factors include:- 1) A lack of dual mass flywheel coupled to a 'less than smooth' 3 cylinder engine. 2) Thin transmission oil to reduce transmission drag, thereby improving fuel efficiency but not damping transmission noise. 3) A 'class leading' low mass transmission housing not damping transmission noise. Below an explanation from Volkswagen from 2012:- This is a documented issue acknowledged by VW and is the result of the car NOT having a dual Mass Flywheel, the device that has been causing some serious trouble on older cars. It is covered under the VW technical product information notice below that basically tells you there is nothing to worry about and nothing that can be done to stop it. Rattling noise from engine bay at idle vehicles fitted with 02S 5 speed manual gearbox (UK TPI) Release date: 05-Dec-2012 Technical product information Transaction No.: 2032109/1 Customer statement / workshop findings Rattling noise from the engine bay area with the engine running at idle. Technical background Neutral gear rollover noise describes the condition whereby a rattling noise from the constant mesh gearing in the transmission is heard while the engine idles with the clutch engaged (pedal released). It is caused by engine torsional vibration and is particularly prevalent on vehicles with a single mass flywheel and low idle speed requirements. The intensity of neutral gear rollover noise will increase with transmission temperature and / or an increase of torque loading, for example air conditioning or heated rear window activation. The rollover noise is inherent to transmission design and will disappear when a gear is selected and the vehicle is driven. The noise is not detrimental to the transmission or engine components and does not constitute a manufacturing defect. Production change None. Measure When evaluating transmission complaints please draw on the statements above when assessing the complaint, remembering to account for engine refinement, gear selection “feel”, and clutch operation. Warranty accounting instructions Normal warranty guidelines apply. Parts information No parts information. Customer information Neutral gear rollover noise will not negatively affect the longevity or performance of the vehicle. It is concept related and does not constitute a manufacturing defect.

> unsure about cam belt ? When it would need changing ? VW (designers and manufacturers of the CHYA/B engines) recommend inspection of the cambelt at 240 000km (160k miles) and to replace if worn. Water pump is belt driven off the gearbox end of the exhaust camshaft. Cambelt is PTFE reinforced and the cam gears are tri-oval, so wear isn't the problem that it was on previous engines. Clutch wear is pretty much relevant to previous use and whether the driver has been kind to the transmission. Cheers...Snaefell