spinifex

Bumping this again..... Still nobody has any success? I cannot believe that a modern car, and a modern phone, cannot talk to each other, even though it seems this is easy to achieve if you have an older-model phone that is still mirrorlink capable? Can anyone suggest who exactly is to "blame" for this? Is it the car manufacturer, the phone manufacturer, or the headunit (MIB2) manufacturer?

Ahhh.... fair enough. Yes, well since the entire rear panel needs to be repaired, I doubt they'll be able to distinguish between a proportion of damaged caused by the screw, versus the vandalism.

What pre-existing damage are you meaning? The entire right side of the car has been keyed, and that's the claim I would be meaning. And interestingly, the insurance just told me to go out and get my own quote... only wanted 1, and they didn't need it to be assessed by their own team, which I also found odd, but I'm not arguing with it. I intend getting several quotes though. And fully understood about them minimising their payouts... but it's MY car, and i'm paying them MY money, so if I insist on a full respray, then surely that's my choice? Considering the car isn't even 2 years old - and I'm going to have to pay the excess myself, as I cannot identify the responsible party yet.... and doubt the police will identify them either.

That's my next question. I have an excess of $550 australian, so that's not too bad in itself. But my flatmate has noted that on a car less than 2 years old, he wouldn't settle for anything less than an entire respray of the whole car, to ensure absolute paint matching on ALL panels. Having mismatched colours - even if only slightly - will definitely affect resale value when it comes to it, and considering the age of the car, do you all think this is a reasonable request to make? On the face of it, it will probably turn out MUCH more expensive than the insurance company is prepared to cover.... but what would you all do, if you were in this situation. The damage is seen below. Am I being unrealistic in my expectation, considering an entire side of the car needs painting, rather than just a tiny touch-up here and there? The scratches are quite deep, not just a light scrape down the paintwork, but deep enough that you can quite distinctly FEEL the scratch, and the "volcano" effect of the paint as you run your finger along it. By that I mean, when I first saw it, I thought it was just some stringy road much that had flicked up on the door, and when I ran a finger over it, it was lumpy (convex), rather than a crater (concave) as the edges of the paint had sort of rippled upwards. Not sure how else to describe it. I suspect that's a screwdriver job, not just simple car keys....? Thoughts?

Thanks all for responses. I have an even bigger issue now, as my car was keyed badly while parked on the street the night I posted this question.... so now I have a police-report and insurance-claim to try to sort out. The rear panel that this screw is "offending" was also gouged by the gutless lowlife, so it's almost a moot point now, as the entire panel will definitely need a sand/respray.

Automatic car wash, but touchless... so instead of the stupid rotating brushes, it just uses lasers/sensors to guide the high-pressure water jets around the car.

Only at 38000km, so had 2 services in that time. Interesting point to note though.... And TBH, despite everyone's opinions, I use auto laser-wash, as I live in unit complex and literally have nowhere available to wash it manually. Wouldn't think that would be powerful enough to bend a metal panel, to the point a screw tip penetrates through from the other side though... but still an interesting proposal to consider.....

Wow... mine doesn't. It goes off as soon as I take it out of reverse. Is yours a facelift model? As a FL model I used as a loan car a couple of times (while mine got serviced), the camera stayed on a lot longer, as you've described. And it had a lot more view settings options to fiddle around with, in the camera view screen. Mine is a pre-FL model, vRS.

Thanks all for responses so far. Car is 18months old. I also wondered why I haven't noticed since new, and all I can think of is body flex over time, which has caused the screw to move against the bodywork. I've never had any work done on the car anywhere near the wheel arch linings, except new tyres about 2 months ago - but removing wheels to put tyres on would have no need to move the wheelarch linings. Plus I was there watching while the car had them fitted, so there was definitely no messing with screws at that time. So that's the point of asking if I'm the only unhappy person on the planet to be affected by this, or if I can find some other "victims", to balance my claim against Skoda.

OK - odd one. Mk3 Octavia owners, can you check your cars please? I've noticed a rust bubble forming under the paint, immediately underneath the fuel-filler flap which originally looked like a stone chip. Upon closer inspection, it's actually a screw from INSIDE the rear wheelarch, which holds the guard in place, that appears to have been overtightened from the factory, and the tip of the screw has started to poke through the bodywork & broken the paint. It's very clear that this crack in the paint has occured from INSIDE pushing out, and not a simple stone chip. If you stick your hand inside the wheel arch and feel around immediately under the fuel-filler flap, you'll notice the head of a large screw holding the inner guard in place... that's exactly where this rust bubble has formed. Can't see anything on the passenger side, but the same screw head can be felt inside the arch. Looks like an awkward warranty claim against Skoda for this one... any suggestions or comments?

I haven't looked into this myself yet (I have OBD11, but not VCDS)... but does anyone know if the camera screen can be made to stay on longer, AFTER you take it out of Reverse and back into Gear? Opposite to the OP's question. I'd like to see the camera screen still showing as I drive away, for several seconds before switching off.... for things like noticing if I've remembered to close the garage door, or if the wife is running down the road chasing me with my forgotten lunch, etc, etc. And yes, I know I can just look in the rear-view mirror for that.... in which case, why do any of us bother having reverse camera?

So.... I gather then that nobody has managed to get this to work on a modern phone? There's numerous youtube videos of people who have managed to get it working, but unless you speak German or Czech, there's no way of knowing what they're saying or doing. And they don't have details as to model of info unit, so can't determine if it's a solution or not.

Im on 8.0 Oreo. Don't really want to downgrade my android version, just for this to work.....

Ok I’ve tried this till I could puke coathangers. I've googled until I can google no-more.... and nothing is working. My brand new Samsung S8 is mirrorlink enabled. One of the reasons I purchased it was for this very reason... so I could connect it via AndroidAuto AND Mirrorlink, to my MIB2 unit, which is also Mirrorlink enabled. I’ve followed the instructions faultlessly on various interwebz sites.... installed rock scout and various versions of both LG mirrordrive and the Samsung mirrorlink car mode. Android auto works flawlessly. So does CarPlay when connected to my iPhone. But I CANNOT get mirrorlink working to display my phone screen on the info unit. Now before anyone asks why.... Firstly, because there are certain apps (like a particular performance monitoring app) that I want to display on my info unit, and it's not an approved AA or CarPlay app. And secondly, because I'm really anal about stuff like this, and if a function is supposed to be enabled/available (which in both cases - the phone, AND the car - it is), then I want it to actually damn-well work. The video here shows that my phone home screen shows for the briefest of moments when double back arrow but won't stay on screen. I cannot believe that a modern device has so much trouble connecting when it’s completely compatible and other devices in the Samsung range connect without any issues. PS: my partner’s galaxy S8+ also will not display on MIB screen. Has anyone here managed to get mirrorlink working properly and can write a clear tutorial, using a modern phone? PPS: A mate of mine has also tried this... he said his mirrorlink worked perfectly with an older model phone, but now doesn't with his new phone either. Mirrorlink Fail.mp4

Thanks Gerrycan> When I run the fan-only, it's usually because I've go the AC off, and the windows down, and it's usually a good 30min drive or more. That's why I can't understand why the "internal bits" can't dry off sufficiently. I did bring this up at a previous service, and they told me it was because the pollen filter was dirty.... and charged me an exorbitant amount to replace it and put a bomb through the car/vent system. I asked for the pollen filter when I collected the car, and TBH, it looks pretty average to me... certainly not what I would call blocked or clogged..... not even really discoloured at all. I must admit, it smelled pristine after that for several months, but it's come back again after another several months of using the air on and off.. but as mentioned, fan ALWAYS running permanently. I'll try your suggestion and try to locate the AC drain to ensure it's not blocked. Can't see how it could be, on an 18mth old car, but I didn't think my oil-cooler was going to break and leak oil into the radiator coolant after only 3weeks of ownership either !!!

Getting back to the original question - my car has done this several times now too. I have a Mk3, with climate control. This is on almost 90% of the time, in auto, and i force-recirc the air, as the auto/climate-control doesn't seem to do this. Any time i have the AC turned off - usually because I drive a lot with the windows down - I always ALWAYS have the fan blower still running. I NEVER turn the fan off. So why does my AC get that rotten cheese smell, when I turn the AC back on again? There is no reason why my condenser/evaporator, or the pipework or vents, or any other part of the climate control system, should have built-up bacteria or moisture in it, as I know you are supposed to run the fan for a good few minutes after turning off the AC... which as mentioned above, my fan is ALWAYS running. Can anyone explain why I continually have the mouldy cheese smell for a good few minutes after first turning the AC back on again? I'm not happy to have to change the damned pollen filter & run a smelly-bomb through the system every couple of months, as there's clearly either a design-fault, or user-error issue occurring here.

I know right !!! I can't understand it really..... I know that the pillar airbags going off would be with explosive force, but surely you don't want the majority of that force being used just to blow the trim off !!! Those clips are super tight. Then again... perhaps they are there to STOP the trim actually dislodging during an airbag event.... do the bags just deploy out the bottom of the trim, while the trim stays in place? Anybody know for sure?

@Ferretvrs

My thread CLICK HERE might be of use to you.

It doesn't bother me TOO much....... I don't pull over and cycle ignition anymore..... but the OCD in me wants to fix it all the same!

I like the idea of a screen protector, but agree with all replies above. As well, it MAY limit the effectiveness of the proximity sensor in the unit as well......

Check out This thread here which should help identify switched versus permanent-power fuses available for dashcam installs. Depends entirely on the various equipment packs you have installed in your car - you may have some extra fuse-positions available, or some filled, versus the ones on my car, which ^^^ thread is about. Just ENSURE you put the input & output of the piggyback fuse-tap in the correct way around... it DOES make a difference to the way it works.

Yep - did all that. Did the actual coding change nearly a year ago..... and it worked perfectly for quite a time, but just randomly, I notice that it reverts back to 3 blinks. Only way to get it back to 4 again, is to pull over, and cycle the ignition off and on again...... I can't remember if I've tried just resetting the settings/info-unit, instead of cycling the ignition.... but I assume that once the setting is set, that's it.... it should be set. I can't see how it can work sometimes, and then randomly decide to go back to factory settings again. Makes me wonder how permanent these setting-changes are via OBD11...... everything else I've changed (boot close button & keyfob, various lighting adjustments, lap timer, etc, etc, have all stayed set to the settings I've coded).. so unsure why the blinkers sometimes revert back?

Secondary question: has anyone either used the one-touch app/long-coded using OBD11, to change the comfort-blinker setting from the default 3-blinks, to a different number and found that every so often, it returns to 3 flashes.... until you cycle the ignition again? Mine does it.... just randomly it decides to revert to the factory 3 flashes even though I've got it set to 4. I can't see how this could possibly happen since I've coded a number into the ECU so the previous number shouldn't be in there anymore? I'm worried/wondering what other little changes I've made, that will suddenly randomly decide to revert to factory settings again..... And yes - I've un-coded it back to default 3 blinks, and re-coded back to 4 again several times, and it still randomly decides to go back to 3 every so often.

I haven't done this on my car yet but have wondered.... Does this actually change the battery voltage as seen by the entire ECU? ie: it changes a reference point so the ECU continually only sees 10V, for exacmple, when it's expecting to see 12 or more? In which case, wouldn't that mess up other functions of the car? OR Does it change the minimum voltage threshold JUST for the stop/start function, to something unrealistic..... so that effectively, ONLY that module fails to activate, as the voltage never reaches the trigger point? I assume that adaptation is the second option, as the first option can surely only cause issues for other functions within the ECU?