Agent327

Hi, have a look here, it is a dutch site but you use Google translate. It does no give you are howto's but diagnostic information only regarding the fault code(s)

@KirkJames As we all know (those ones who have been dealing with this issue), connected to the drain hole from the roof, there is a 90 degree bend, that holds the drain hose. Do you know is that cleaning tool will go through that bend? The last time I tried it, the hose came loose from that bend as it has very limited space.. I also noticed in my 2012 Superb the drain hoses have shrunk in length over the course of years.

Default cambelt change is done by 131K miles or 210K kilometers. The "No bend lighting AFS function" warning means your car's Adaptive Frontlight System (AFS) has detected a fault, preventing headlights from swiveling into turns for better corner visibility, often due to a burnt-out cornering bulb (like an H7), a faulty sensor (suspension/leveling), blown fuse, or wiring issue, requiring diagnostic checks to clear the error and restore dynamic lighting. (AI source). So you better check its functions. The other check handbook warnings, I do not know about but it may be wise to red the manual.

Have checked whether all the air ducts are properly connected? I found the one serving the driver side near the door hardly blowing any air. when taking out the center dashboard opening grill I found it disconnected some years ago. Just a suggestion here.

I disagree here as Car Scanner is making use of the ELM 327 dongle and, yes, it may return some basic fault messages but in a more generic way. Both OBDeleven and VCDS will give you indepth fault messages which can never be achieved with Car Scanner. Personally I use OBDeleven and Car Scanner

I am afraid, Car Scanner is not capable providing you with detailed information. Unfortunately I am not familiar with the Snap-On scanner. Personally I would recommend using OBDeleven or VCDS for proper diagnostics.

this looks like a thermal security issue here, when the wiper motor axle stops after 3 turns it experiences too much resistance an will prevent the motor damaging itself. it maybe wise to lubricate the axle?

it would be interesting to see the result of you efforts. Btw, what diagnostic tools have been used to scan for faults?

Are you sure there are no codes? faulty glow-plugs and faulty injectors do generate fault codes though. 2 years ago I had the same issue. With a cold engine with outside temperatures dropping, the engine need a bit more fuel. It appeared the injectors never had been cleaned so they got contaminated with dirt. So I replaced them with new injectors. 300.000 km is a respectable number so it may be wise to replace them as well. However, you could first try to clean them by adding injector cleaner to your diesel tank and fill it up with diesel as well. very often those manufacturers advise, for curative reasons, to add 2 quantities initially. For preventive maintenance the advise 1 quantity every 10k. km. If this doesn´t help then replace the injectors.

See here

I bought my 2012 Superb 2.0 TDI in 2016 with 93k km's on the odometer,. First thing I did was giving it an oil change, as Skoda prescribes an oil change every 60k km. I have followed this discipline until today (now 263k km's) and the DSG runs still as if it left the factory. I also have to say I my car not aggressively at all. One can perform an oil change DIY but I prefer to have it done every 3 years with a DSG specialist. Costs are about €200

As I could read earlier in this topic, the fuel consumption by default factory setting is on the optimistic side. Some years ago I used OBDeleven to achieve a realistic consumption level. At one point in time I made the decision to change my fuel injectors for new ones, and yes I had to code them also with OBDeleven. Once done, it did not have an effect on the measured consumption at all.

First of all: Emulsification is a process whereby a fatty substance mixes consistently with a watery liquid. An example of emulsification is the production of mayonnaise. (oil and vinegar) You can sometimes see it on the filler cap (a coffee-with-milk-coloured slurry) of your valve cover (often a result of condensation water mixing with oil). You should take a closer look at the composition of your coolant, for example. When your engine is running, do you see air bubbles appearing in your expansion tank? This could indicate that you have a leaky head gasket. Furthermore, there is sufficient information available on this subject on the forums of various other car brands.

Any pictures and HOWTO available

Well done, good fault finding. I was not thinking in this direction at all I have to admit.

Just try it, imo this is systematic fault finding. Somewhere you light is not behaving well and you need to create a point of departure. I do not know very much about bi-xenon lights but this is how I would start fault finding. the third option is scavenging the internet on the VAG related forums and find similar questions and their answers. Te world is bigger than the (however good) Skoda forums. Even visiting other makes forums could help. as the light units and their electronics often come from manufacturers like e.g. Hella

For a start I would check the connectors from the wire harness on corrosion. Step number two would be reading the fault codes with and OBDII device

Do you drive often long or short distances? In case of mainly short distances, it is likely your injectors are dirty and may need a good clean. You can try this by adding you bottles of injector cleaner to a full as tank as a curative measure, when this solves the issue, add every 6K miles one bottle of this fluid to a full gas tank. If this does not resolve the issue, you may have them professionally cleaned. Since you are not an experience DIY repairs man I´d recommend you to seek for a diesel specialist to do this for you. Replacing the injectors by refurbished or even new ones belong to the options.

Same engine here in France, last week with 37 Celcius on the motorway I had 122 Celcius oil temperature on not so steep climb. Nothing to worry imo

Hi, If youŕe not afraid to deal with a Dutch company I would recommend electronic4cars.nl , seven years ago they did repair my Columbus very well, it functions still today.

The diagnosis is an easy to do DIY job, watch the video, do exactly the same and you will know for sure where the leak comes from, get the multi-meter and start measuring. What made the conclude the drivers seat control unit is faulty, what tools did they use, OBDeleven or similar? Did they show you the faultcodes? I am reading rip-off prices here.

I had my EGR replaced in December '24 due to malfunction of it. My take on EGR deletion is this: you already had a coolant leak but once the EGR is deleted and still present, the chances for coolant leaks are increased. Yes one can delete it but this only a short term solution as the EGR is an integral part of the whole engine. Personally: as I often need to drive long distances I would not drive without the EGR not being cooled.

Another one here in NZ😉

This one helps?