Schtum

SE L Drive suggests a late model - 150 TDI 4x4, manual or DSG...?

There's a sunglasses holder in the roof, isn't there...? I'm pretty sure there is in my wife's 2019 SEL.

I have a Team Heko one on my 2016 Yeti 150 TDI. I fitted it primarily to help raise the oil temperature more quickly so that I could drive it a bit hard harder earlier. The car's a 4x4 manual, mapped to c. 185 hp and I'm getting just over 40 mpg in this weather.

Has the car had the 'Emissions Fix' and that hasn't been rolled back? I'd replace the EGR valve, have its outlet rotated in the other direction, clean the DPF, have the Emissions Fix rolled back and possibly have the car remapped.

I wrecked a Dunlop D5 Winter Sport on the 17" rims which I fit to my wife's 190 TDI Karoq in the season. We replaced it with a new one without any issues. Equally when a truck sideswiped one of her Tiguans a few years ago, the insurance would only run to one new tyre on that side when I was repaired by a VW dealership. Again, that created no issues.

Given that they'll have to be coded in, it'd be reasonable to think they can also be coded out. Find someone with VCDS and knows how to use it.

I suspect that, if correct, that only applies to some pre Facelift cars. It's certainly not the case on our late 2019 190 TDI SE L. I suspect the cut off point for the changeover was the implementation of WLTP. While I'm here, I'll briefly mount my personal hobby horse and suggest that if you're at all an enthusiastic driver, buy a 4x4 model ,

Do I detect a problem with relying on old memories? Actually, what was taught was that surface area has no effect on friction but mass does. However, that was only true for static friction on smooth surfaces. On the road, wider softer tyres will grip better. Note that In order to exceed 300 MPH in 4 seconds, Top Fuel dragsters must accelerate an average of over 4 G's. In order to reach 200 MPH well before half-track, the launch acceleration approaches 8 G's.

I bought a new Panda in '83. We had some very bad winters back then. I remember I used to happily park it in snow drifts at the side of the road and drive out again.

Currently, I have CrossClimate+ on the Yeti on the original 17" rims and Dunlop D5 Winter Sport on the Karoq on Audi Q3 17' rims rather than the original 18's. I find the biggest difference in performance is braking on snow, where the Dunlops are bit better than the Michelins but there's not a huge amount in it.

Different models. The Outdoor model looks like mine, here. Personally and particularly because good, low mileage ones are thin on the ground, I'd be telling her to be less fussy.

To get to your destination before you need to recharge....? 🤔

Uwe Ross says.... https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/6252/

Possibly. I had 16" Audi A3 alloys with winter tyres on my Mk5 Golf GT Sport, in the season, rather than its standard fit 17's. I encountered the occasional collision between caliper and balance weight after having wheels balanced and weights replaced.

If, as I suspect, your front discs are 312 mm, then you're correct that you can't fit 15" wheels. 16's should fit with the risk of a possible, balance weight and brake caliper interface.

Might I politely suggest that's generalised nonsense. I owned and drove this for 8 years and 238,00 miles from new until a low speed collision in the city wrote it off. It was running as sweetly then as when it was new. It was on the original turbo and the head had never been lifted. I thrashed it from the point at which I'd completed running it in. I towed a very large caravan with it on occasions, spent long periods at 100 mph on the Autoroute, squealed round an open road race circuit in France, commuted in it, drove it off road, etc...

Dearie me. I paid £11750 for my high spec. 2016 150 TDI SE L Drive 4x4 manual with 32k miles on it, in early 2020. Last year WBAC offered me £14.5k for it at one point, although I suspect that would have dropped a bit by now.

What sort of money are they asking for late model cars, these days...? It occasionally goes through my mind to sell mine. I've not been keeping very well for a while and I don't know how much sense it makes to have two diesel 4x4 Skodas sitting on the drive.

I'd find a good independent to do the job. As you've rightly said, it's not on any VAG main dealer's service schedule. This was the state of the gauze strainer in our 190 TDI Karoq at 22k miles.

That'll be us. We got a new Karoq in October 2019. My wife was doing 15k miles a year then so the payments were c. £400 a month. The car itself was £36k list but the dealer immediately offered us it for £32k. I think it was a cancelled order and he was concerned that not many people would want a 190 TDI SE L. During Covid, my wife decided she'd had enough of her senior management job and packed it in. In consequence, we currently have a 33k mile Karoq sitting on the drive rather than one with 60k on it. The balloon at the end was just under £12k. With an initial deposit of £1500, I think we just under £33k all in. I'm still not quite sure how we managed that but those are the figures. I did the same thing with the new Mk5 Golf GT TDI I got on a PCP in 2008. It was a £20k car then. I think by the time the PCP was up at 3 years and I'd paid the balloon, the total was £22k and then I kept it for another 8 years.

Our Karoq which is really my wife's is a bit quicker off the line. Just put it in Sport and floor it and it goes. I'm still swithering about mapping it and the DSG now that the 4 year warranty is up. It also handles and rides better than the Yeti. It glides over bumpy back roads where the Yeti leaps from crest to crest. It's much more refined, much smoother, much more comfortable and having XDS+ as standard it rotates very well in tight corners. I've enabled XDS in the Yeti but it's only on the front whereas XDS+ is front and rear. It does help the Yeti turn in and hold a line but it doesn't extend to assisting rotation. The Yeti will live with the Karoq if they're both driven quickly across country. It doesn't feel as quick and it's harder work. However with my son in the Yeti chasing me in the Karoq, we discovered it would keep station. Having said that, the Yeti's rear seats live in the garage all the time so the weight loss will have helped a bit as well. However, if I remap the Karoq it should make 220 - 230 bhp and 330 lbs-ft.

Since I see you have an Impreza Turbo, a good remap does wonders to wake up a 150 TDI. My 2016 manual SE L Drive 4x4, mapped by Angel Tuning Scotland is now making a claimed 180 bhp and 295 lbs-ft. Driving it hard, I get c. 40 mpg.

I think it's got much worse recently, along with the huge hike in premiums. I just paid 50% more for my recent renewal than I did last year. However, more importantly, there is a significant difference in grip between all-season / winter rubber and ordinary "summer" tyres on low friction surfaces. Unless you're pretty adept at a bit of drifting, I wouldn't recommend it.

In my recent experience some companies will attempt to wriggle out of first party claims.

I don't believe you. Please feel free to go and test it out in practice and report back. 👍