Schtum

You do know that replacement LED bulbs in cars are an MOT fail?

Anything that meets VAG spec 507.00.

Nothing like a good bit of mind blowing to start off the week....

As I'm sure you know the exact stoichiometric ratio is 14.7:1 for petrol engines and 14.5:1 for diesels. However, that's not necessarily best for maximum power. Viz. https://aviation.stackexchange.com/...re-ratio-beyond-stoichiometry-give-more-power

Originally, diesel engines didn't have throttles. They ran at full throttle all the time and engine revs and output were determined by the amount of diesel injected. The ASV was introduced to stop the engine dead when you switched off the ignition. If you'd ever driven an old diesel truck and pulled the engine stop knob, you'd have understood about the shudder. However, more recently, the ASV has been used to provide some throttling of the intake air; notably during DPF regeneration. Hence it's become known as a 'throttle body'. HTH

I'm a big Michelin and even more, CrossClimate fan. I've got CrossClimate+ on the Yeti. In the winter I run Dunlop D5 Winter Sport on the Karoq. A couple of winters ago I did a bit of back to back testing on the same piece of snow and ice covered road. The only discernible difference was that the Karoq braked slightly better on the low friction surface. Thinking about it, some of that may have been because the Karoq is on 215's and the Yeti is on 225's so there's a bit more lbs per sq ins bearing down on the Karoq's tread. In anything above 7-10 deg C it's no contest. CrossClimates are superb in standing water and I've thrashed them in temperatures up to 30 deg C. I also like the steering feel imparted by the slightly convex tread pattern.

I think you're being overly optimistic but it depends what you mean by 'large cars'. 3,500 Kg is Range Rover Territory. Both our Yeti 150 TDI 4x4 and Karoq 190 TDI are homolgated to tow up to 2100 Kg braked trailers. The unbraked limit is 750 Kg.

I spent part of this afternoon in the local turner's shop where Derek modified a DSLR lens support for me before he skimmed this Suzuki cylinder head.

In which case, they'd be well advised to buy a late 2015 on Euro 6 compliant car. The 150 TDI replaced the 170. Not quite so much power but almost as much torque. You don't say what the asking price is on the one they're looking at. It should be possible to pick up a low mileage 2016 in a good spec for around £12k in a. private sale.

It should be due its second DSG oil change now and at the very least its second Haldex service, including removal of the pump and cleaning the gauze strainer. The other thing of note is that if they intend to use it in a ULEZ zone, it's not Euro 6 compliant. However, it will remap to c. 210 bhp and 325 lbs-ft and be satisfyingly perky if that's a consideration.

Not to the best of my knowledge. Mine is a late and well specced SE L Drive with heated windscreen, heated leather seats and the rare electric driver's seat and I suspect that if it had been an option, the original owner would have specced it. I'm reliably informed that all these late model Yetis were built to customer orders. It would be nice though. We also have a Karoq with the heated wheel which came as a pack with DSG gear change paddles.

I suspect it indicates the two versions of that transmission. DQ400 for ICE cars and DQ400E for hybrid cars.

As far as I remember, 200 TDI which was an evolution of 190 TDI which we have in our Karoq has a bigger turbo and different injectors. A remap will take the 150 TDI which I have in my Yeti to c. 185. I suspect that the 200 TDI Superb is fitted with the same DQ500 DSG gearbox as our Karoq. It's a 7 speed wet clutch gearbox, capable of handling up to 600 Nm of torque. The only issues I've seen reported with this are Mechatronic unit failures.

Yes, I've seen the VCDS procedure here... https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/578065-How-to-Properly-Re-Calibrate-and-Adjust-Adaptive-Bi-Xenon-Headlights. That's one option where I'd need to recover my VCDS cable from the neighbour who has borrowed it and carry out that procedure. However, I'd have thought that calibration using ODIS would produce similar results.

I have a problem with the low beam height in my 2106 Yeti with Bi-Xenons, It started when the rear ride height sensor device broke. I had it replaced with an aftermarket part. This required recalibration and my local VAG specialist performed this on ODIS, I believe. All was well until 20 miles later the ride height sensor stopped working on speed hump and the lights went back to oscillating up and down as they had when the original component broke. The same VAG indy fitted an OEM unit. This was recalibrated today but the dip beam is too low and I'm not sure that the lights are performing their usual functions. They are however doing their little dance on engine start. Anyone with experience of this issue? I know that you can physically adjust the height of the headlamp but I suspect this also alters the halogen main beam lamps and they're pretty much correct where they are.

It depends on which Mk4 they're for. GTI, for example came with 312 mm discs. I think that also applied to GT 130 TDI and GT150 TDI. Lesser models had 288 mm, if I remember correctly. You need to know the diameter of the discs on your car and match those.

It's often more about what it does to the roll centre rather than just the CofG but then you know that, J.R, right....

Does the car have Bi-Xenon headlamps or just plain old Halogens?

Get it scanned. It's normal for the fans to keep running for a while after you switch the engine off if the DPF has been doing a regeneration while you've been driving and switching off has interrupted this. However, it shouldn't run for long enough to flatten a healthy battery.

Discussions about winter tyres apart, our three previous Tiguans and current Karoq and Yeti have all been AWD or 4x4 in Škoda's terminology. Tall cars / SUVs with only FWD are something of triumph of form over function. Pulling away briskly or even driving enthusiastically creates too much rearwards weight transfer. Couple that with the previously mentioned 'eco' tyres which seem to be supplied as standard and you have a recipe for wheel spin. My son's partner bought a new FWD 1.5 TSI Q3 a couple of years ago. Riding in it, I was amazed at how often the traction control intervened. At my recommendation, they've recently fitted CrossClimates all round which has shown a significant improvement.

Do you mean what sort of gains might you get from fitting a tuning box or from having a remap? The latter is more effective than the former. A good remap on a 150 TDI should give c. 180 - 185 bhp and c. 400 Nm of torque. I have this engine in my Yeti and a good remap has certainly improved the performance. You can, of course go quite a bit further than this by fitting a bigger hybrid turbo, bigger injectors, etc.

It's not just snow and ice that's the issue. Setting aside the issue of the 'Eco' low rolling resistance tyres which have very poor grip in most conditions, any 'summer' tyre will lose its performance under 7 deg C. I've been using Dunlop D5 Winter Sport on several previous Tiguans and our current Karoq. With AWD and winter tyres, they're pretty much unstoppable, unless you want them to be, in anything less than snow deeper than the underside of the car. On the Yeti, for the first time ever, I've been using Michelin CrossClimate. I can't recommend those enough. They've been great in all conditions, even for an old hooligan like me.

Switch on Auto Hold. Press the footbrake. Make sure the wee green light is on the dash and the light is illuminated on the electric parking brake. You should only need to do that step a couple of times to familiarise yourself with the process to ensure that the parking brake is engaged, Leave the gear selector in D. When the lights change press the accelerator and drive off.

Sorry to hear about this. I'm just along the road from you so I probably read about your collision on Fife Jammers or similar. How long had you had the car? I'm wondering if a previous owner had them coded out because of a fault.

As I said, I've been having Star Performance work on my VAG cars for the past 20 years. I wouldn't keep going back there if I didn't think they were one of the very best in the business. You might want to look at their Facebook page. https://www.facebook.com/StarPerformanceUK