Jump to content

a666andy

Members
  • Posts

    165
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by a666andy

  1. Ok, so short story is, I purchased a spare wheel / tyre and jack etc. for the car due to continental use loaded heavy so didn't want to rely on repair goo...... Took the polystyrene insert out of the car to fit the spare in and forgot to put the unlocking key in the car. 1 flat tyre in France, a force removed bolt and now I have one locking nut missing from the car..... Is it possible to get 1 single nut to match the rest of the set (and existing unlocking 'key') and if so where from, would Skoda direct be my best bet? I'm toying with removing the rest of the locking nuts, really not sure it is worth having them on for the horror stories of broken keys / removal / etc.......... But, want options other than buying a full new set of locking nuts (as let's be honest, they are not much of a deterrent anyway so not worth spending much on) Cheers
  2. Edit just seen you said you've changed the bulb
  3. I got the 7inch wide rim as per the previous link and it being the primary size option for the 16inch Fits in my boot wheel well of the estate no prob.
  4. Does the 3 button reboot work? Hold down track backwards and forward and info button on the right all together and the unit should reboot
  5. I went for the 'full size spare' option of 205/55/16 about £75 brand new with tyre from mytyres (choose your own tyre but i went cheap nankang as not directional) All wheel options here
  6. Water may be resting in the scuttle that runs along the bottom edge of the windscreen which is where the ecu is also located. Remove the plastic trim just by pulling it up, one side (on uk right hand drive it's the passenger side) will come off without having to remove the wiper arm, this will let you see if there is water in there. Also if new battery has been fitted already, worth double checking the connections are all firmly done.
  7. One of my rear springs did exactly the same a little while ago. As i am due a long france drive with the car loaded, i decided 2 new springs and shocks as car is just over 150k miles. While it was all coming off, new mounts and bump stops too. Parts £70ish for pair of bilstein springs £70ish pair bilstein shocks £25ish pair top mounts £10ish pair bump stops £75ish labour (done at same time as oil and filters change by mechanic friend)
  8. Hi Wino, cheers for that and good point, I'll give it a try with the sensor disconnected That is a little more informative with the superseded part number, I was using http://www.realoem.me/Skoda/CZ/SUP/2011/632/R/8/823/823010 this site which just lists all the possible part numbers and doesn't always show which has been replaced etc.... Many thanks
  9. Update - so my mechanic says there is a break in the wiring 'somewhere' and was unable to locate and wanted to take the dash out to possibly run the new wiring that came with the new siren....... Err no thanks, I don't want my dash pulled out! Question, should it be fairly easy to run the new cabling from the alarm siren to where it comes from (I presume the alarm control box)? I'm sure I read in a post on this site somewhere where a previous person purchased the new siren, it didn't work and a garage said "it's not compatible with your current wiring, we need to replace it" and it was re-wired in an hour ish, anyone any ideas on this please as i would rather an auto electrician sort my siren out than my mechanic try and 'find a way' . Cheers
  10. Steve / all I took a look at my air quality sensor (correct part number is 1K0907659, Steve you had a 9 missing in your earlier post) earlier and not totally convinced it is or has been shorting. It looked a bit messy and had a sticky substance on it but I don't think melted or burnt. My mechanic said there were no errors showing after he did his stuff so I'm not sure if I have a dodgy one or not, but may replace anyway especially as my alarm siren is not working and the wiring are wrapped together! (I have another thread on that ) And if replaced I can then change my fuse back down again Anyway, the plastic cover over the airbox where the air quality sensor is seems to of been lost by my mechanic so I want to replace, struggling to confirm the part number to a picture and can only come up with the below, can anyone confirm these are the correct parts numbers please? 3T2815159 - cover (multiple ending letters, mine is 2011, so guessing I need D, or has F superseded all of them??) N 90732103 - Hex bolts (x2 required) Thanks
  11. Glad all is looking good for and I'll be checking my air sensor too! Thanks
  12. Steve I'm not sure on how accurate this is (maybe someone else may be able to confirm) but my mechanic said there was supposedly a bulletin that said Fuse 4 is too low an amperage and to upgrade it to 7.5A..... Mine has been swapped and hasn't blown again since and I can only trust his word for it as my Aircon is working again as normal and my oil level sensor warning is also gone.
  13. If you mean the round star clips in your picture (pushed on to the end of the screws / bolts) then no, not at all. Just the rubber seal along the top front edge, it should come off quite easily
  14. Many thanks for that, it's all started to link together now and make sense Will start with the wires from the oil level sensor and work back, hopefully it's not a long search Cheers
  15. I'm sure I don't have a anti dazzle mirror, it's just basic, my reverse lights have been working all along but no idea about the pressure sender but it at least is related to the aircon. Although my oil level sensor is throwing an error at the moment too (waiting for mech to check the wiring as already had a new sensor put in last week) Anyone else can tell what this fuse is for? Thanks
  16. It's really not that bad at all to be honest, I'd say 5 mins tops to get to it
  17. Hi Pull that rubber trim off that runs along the front edge of the plastic scuttle and if you lift the edge of the plastic you'll see it just to the right of center where the two trims join (flat plastic in the middle of pic without the holes) there is then a silver metal box with the ecu in it with a wide plastic clip along the front edge that you pull towards you and down to release Ps easier to get to if you remove the wiper arm and trim, but you wont need to just to read the label on top Edit - you can just see the edge of it in the extreme left of this picture
  18. Many thanks both The fuse has been swapped but after going for a regas on the aircon yesterday, they've left it empty because it wasnt working.... so i dont know if the new fuse has made any difference to my aircon issue. Thanks for offering to check, it was first registered end of sept 2011, 2.0 tdi elegance estate, variant accfgbx01
  19. Evening all Can anyone advise me correctly on this fuse number 4 I believe please. To make it very obvious I've circled the fuse and also added the fuse diagram from the back of the cover which is confusing as to me, even after seeing a previous post about it being the wrong way round or something.... Anyway, my Aircon is currently not working, even after a regas attempt and it supposedly holding the vacuum / pressure test so I thought I'd double check fuse 16 as that is what is supposed to be for the aircon according to the handbook.....I think? Anyway, this fuse circled, when pulled out seems to be number 4 (it has a 4 on the plastic it slots into so I'm sure this part is right) and does look like it is blown The diagram on the back of the cover shows a nice little pic of what seems to be the same part as for fuse 16 which is the aircon I believe (Fuse 16 looks ok) However, the myskoda handbook app tells me that Fuse 4 is "WIV, parking light, dimming mirrors, pressure sensor, telephone preinstallation" I've never used the parking lights and don't think I have dimming mirrors (or maybe they are just not working?) no idea what the pressure sensor is and my bluetooth phone works ok but presume this is not the same as telephone prep. I'll obviously replace the fuse anyway, but can anyone confirm for sure what this fuse 4 is actually for? Thanks in advance
  20. cheers, will let the mechanic loose on it when I get back to him to check a few bits
  21. And a very useful post here with official approved sizes etc.
  22. cheers VWGDT - I'll check it again later, but no way of clearing any codes until i can get back to see my mechanic for now and it had a few hours yesterday but still no noise on locking / unlocking (ATA is enabled and I disabled then re-enabled just in case) else I'll try and set the alarm off again later just in case.
  23. Ok So I have swapped the siren, not given it 30 mins yet as didn't have time. Does it need this and / or the code fault reset before I should expect to hear sounds? For anyone else who may need to do this, the siren is in the back right corner of the engine bay (looking from the front of the car) almost next to the bonnet hinge and is a fairly simple swapout once you know where it is You have to remove the wiper and plastic surround, then the plenum cover and in the back corner (circled) is where the siren is bolted underneath Close up showing the back of the siren just poking out. Circled is where it is attached with a ½" bolt (directly underneath), you can get a spanner in here to loosen, then it will slide off to the right or you can undo the bolt fully and drop it out
  24. Cheers VWGDT The part has arrived already so will find 20 mins and give it a try
  25. Hi mantiss, thanks for that, i had seen posts in the octavia forum but wanted to check before pulling things apart, due to my below response to rnh Hi roynhayley, excellent thanks. I had seen on a picture somewhere that showed it in that area (i cant remember what car) and that also confirms the part number is correct Thanks both and I'll confirm back once the parts arrived on the slow boat and I've given it a try
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.