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That is very interesting! I assume the Supermarket branded Super Unleaded (which to be honest is what I was using) has less fancy additives in? (Whoops! Just notice Tesco Momentum in that list.)

I think there are two issues here. No idea about the engine flutter, but as to the fuel filler cap noise, the locking mechanism on the fuel flap can fail. There's a thread on here about it somewhere. It's a pain to fix IIRC, so if it is on the way out, some timely preventative action could save you a bit of bother. Of course it might be something else, but it's worth knocking off the "could-be" list.

You can get specific bird poo remover and it works okay, but them so does water and a bit of a wipe. I have some waterless car wash spray that I keep in my boot and that does a decent enough job if I'm away from home and get a bird mess on my car and haven't got access to a water supply.

JR Tuning also claim the 245 & 430 figures. https://jrtuning.co.uk/remap-tuning-files/viewdetails.php?make=Skoda&model=Octavia&modelyear=2017 - 2019&engine=2.0+TSI+190hp

Good question! I'm afraid they are simply numbers straight off the websites. I think one or two websites do reference fuel variations, and some tuners don't comit to a figure but just say they'll tailor the remap to a specific vehicle. So to answer the question honestly, I do not know. It's actually an issue on my radar, as I've been running mine on regular unleaded for the last 2-3 tankfuls to "water-down" the Super Unleaded I was using previously prior to remapping, as I don't want the remap done on my car running Super Unleaded and then find it won't run quite right on regular unleaded. It might be my imagination, but my car does seem like it's running at high altitude on regular unleaded. It seems to have lost a little of the lazy grunt it had on Super Unleaded, but the weather's changed which I suspect means the fuel additive packs have changed (or is it only diesel that has summer and winter fuel additives?), and I'll accept any apparent changes in performance may be all in my head.

Here are a few of the available numbers from those websites. Not all companies quote a power increase, preferring to tailor a map to a specific vehicle. However some companies seem to have very similar improvement claims, which indicates to me (rightly or wrongly), an off-the-shelf map. (I've quoted a variety of units as there's inconsistency between units quoted by sites, so I used a conversion tool so the numbers could be compared on a like-for-like basis. I've rounded up/down to limit to one decimal point. https://www.unitsconverters.com/en/Power-Conversions/Measurement-18?MeasurementId=18 ) Power Power Torque Torque Nm Stock 190ps 187.4bhp 236lbft 320nm Revo from 242ps to 266ps from 238.6bhp to 262.4bhp from 291lbft to 321lbft from 394.5nm to 435.2nm Racingline 240ps 236.7bhp 286.9lbft 389nm Quantum Tuning 261.6ps 258bhp 324.5lbft 440nm Top Tuning 261.6ps 258bhp 324.5lbft 440nm Superchips 261.6ps 258bhp 325.2lbft 441nm Turners 248.4ps 245bhp 317.2lbft 430nm Chip Tuners 248.4ps 245bhp 317.2lbft 430nm

Thanks for the info. I really have no knowledge of what goes on at charge points, and what <should> happen is very often different from the reality on the street, so thanks for your reply. 👍

I hope this is off-topic, but I'm curious: Is there any enforcement employed to ensure "charger hogging" isn't a thing? I'm thinking of people leaving their EVs parked and connected to free chargers for hours while they're off out for the day. I suppose they'll eventually start printing off tickets that give EVs the use of a charging spot for <charge time> minutes, and then start issuing tickets like they do with car parks. Being able to fairly quickly find a working and available charger is important to me. (I hate to queue: I go to fill up my petrol car in quiet times, usually first thing or evening.)

I think there's enough VAG vehicles about with Gen3B engines for tuning solutions to be pretty sorted now, however I haven't seen a thread on what's available out there, and any real-world experiences with Gen3B remaps (and boxes, but to be honest, I'm not a huge fan of tuning boxes.) So I thought I'd start a thread with the goal of highlighting options for Gen3B engines, and hopefully collating any experience Gen3B owners have had with tuning their Budack engine. To kick off, here are a few companies that offer tuning products for the Geb3B. Obviously more tuners exist, but not all have products to tune the Gen3B. (For example, Celtic tuning don't offer a Gen3B solution on their website, but it's worth noting that some of these websites are not updated as often as they should be. ) Some of the links need you to enter car info and don't give a direct link to the relevant information, blame their poor website design, not me. 😋 Where a direct link can be given, I think I've given it. It's by no means comprehensive, but it's a start. Feel free to add any other companies you come across with Gen3B products and please add any experience or links to experience with Gen3B tuning. I know you can't go too mad tuning the Gen3B, but it's a decent engine and in the Skoda Octavia it creates a fairly nippy but attention-dodging Octavia. https://www.onlyrevo.com/product-details/software/skoda/octavia-mk3-2013-2020/421/stage-1 https://www.racingline.com/ea888-gen3b-software https://www.getunitronic.com/ecu-tuning/volkwagen-tiguan-20l-tsi-2019-stage1 https://sportignition.com/product/group-8-jb4-tuner-gen3b/ https://www.quantumtuning.co.uk/ https://top-tuning.co.uk https://www.turnerperformance.co.uk/car-registration-lookup/?RegistrationNumber=lb69pdv https://www.chiptuners.co.uk/vrm/ https://www.superchips.co.uk/ECU-Remap/Skoda/Octavia-A7-2013/Petrol/Laurin-2-0-TSI-187-bhp/lb69pdv https://www.angeltuning.co.uk/ https://jrtuning.co.uk/remap-tuning-files/viewdetails.php?make=Skoda&model=Octavia&modelyear=2017 - 2019&engine=2.0+TSI+190hp Also, please check @skodamota's thread here, which I forgot to include in my list of suppliers, as TVS didn't show up in my UK-based search when I was researching potential remap suppliers.)

This is the biggest inhibitor for an EV for me, but I'm also concerned with security and safety when charging. Petrol stations almost always have staff present as well as good CCTV, which inhibits crime. I'm not sure the same applies with all charging stations. That bothers me a little, though to be fair, I suspect most of my charging would be overnight at home.

I've been eyeing up those solar-powered battery chargers. I don't need it to charge my battery, just stop it discharging, when my car is parked and my dashcam is in park mode. Something I could plug into the 12v socket would be ideal, but my spidey-sense is tingling about whether these products actually can be connected via the 12v socket. I don't think the dashcam needs much current though, so even if it does next to nothing, that's a bit better than nothing. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Monocrystalline-Waterproof-Maintainer-Motorhomes-Motorcycle/dp/B08QHRWK4M/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2U4547USNAGQX&keywords=solar+12+charger+12v+socket&qid=1653990931&s=industrial&sprefix=solar+12+charger+12v+socket%2Cindustrial%2C53&sr=1-3

Hello Fred!

I didn't ask who he was, but when I said can I speak to the service desk, that's who I'd gone through to. Usually I get through to reception, and they've put me through to the service desk. (I say usually, but that's really only been a couple of times I've phoned them.) As for asking them to correct and compensate, in theory, you're absolutely correct. In practice, it's a 40 mile round-trip and I've decided to take my car out of the Skoda dealer network. The chap at Listers telling me a long-life service only lasts 12 months really bothered me. I'd use All-Electric in King's Heath but their almost total absence of parking bothers me. (I'm quite easily bothered, TBH. I might not complain much, but if a business bothers me, I never return.) I've found a local independent and I'll give them a go for the coolant change. They seem to have a decent reputation, good parking and are not in the middle of nowhere relative to where I live, so I'll see how I get on with them. As I intend to keep the car as long as possible, the full Skoda dealer service history is less of an issue for me.

Hopefully the car will be fine and you'll have a happy niece.

Is she going ahead with the deal @roottoot, hopefully with an adjusted price?

I have not seen one like this before, and I like it.

I used this one. Made a mess of the installation first time as didn't know about the airbag in the A-pillar. Tried to get the trim off, but it's really tightly wedged in, so didn't risk forcing it. It looks fine now it's all installed, though.

I have to admit, I was slightly gobsmacked to find airbags in the A-pillar.

Where did you ground the wiring, @hhcd80? I've spent a few hours today plumbing my A129 Duo in and spent ages hiding all the wiring, which I just need to connect to the fusebox now. Trying to decide where to ground it.

If your spidey-sense is tingling, a history check might help. I know they seem expensive, but they do come up with some useful info. https://www.carvertical.com/gb Other checking sites are available, some are probably cheaper. (Incidentally, there's a 10% discount available if you use the discount code HIGHPEAK. There's a direct discount link in the description of this video. Clicking it probably gives him something, but the code worked when I last tried it.)

I dunno, I was on about my comment about no-win, no fee lawyers. As bad a reputation as they have, they still provide a vital lifeline for people who have no access to decent representation. Yeah they might well take a big chunk of any payout. But proving your case in court and 80% of your payout is still better than no payout and no justice.

I know I'm a grumpy old so-and-so, but I gave you the link in my original reply, @meekhong. The information you need was (and is) literally two mouse clicks away. I don't understand why you need further help.

Depends on the engine. Larger engines need more oil. A quick search online returned this. https://oiltype.co/cars/skoda/octavia/2017/ Have fun!

Hindsight is always 20/20. Incidentally (not directed at you @J.R.), no-win, no-fee lawyers aren't all bad. Some of them do good work for people who can't afford to take wealthy people/institutions to court. Nobody should be priced-out of getting justice.

Don't feel that anyone has had a go at you, it's really just a case of trying to give helpful answers and needing more info. When it comes to the air coming into the cabin, there are only limited things your car can do with it. 1) Accelerate it, via the fan(s). 2) Direct and divert it, via a series of flaps. 3) Block it off completely, via the recirculation flap. (My term for whatever it's called.) 3) Heat it up via the heater matrix. (Basically a little radiator) 4) Cool it down via the air-con. 5) Possibly something else I don't know about. Oh yeah! Filter it via the cabin filter. The problem seems to be associated with 3). The heater matrix works with water from the cooling system. If you have no water in your heater matrix, you won't get any heat. Likewise if you have a blocked heater matrix; it might have water in it, but the water will be cooled by the airflow, and won't be replenished with new warm water because there's no water flow. You've said you've only driven it once, home and back to the garage, where it's remained. So you've not been able to see any of the effects of the garage's attempted repairs, and the garage has replaced a lot of parts. It seems like the car was originally losing water "The problem arose straight away with an empty expansion bottle after just a 19 mile drive home." That's a pretty catastrophic loss of water for a 19 mile journey. There's a cynical part of me that wonders whether there was water in the system in the first place. There's another part of me that's wondering whether the car is still losing water. So, given how many parts have been replaced and the flushing that's been done that hasn't solved the problem, I'm wondering if you have a warped cylinder head.