imart143

It is locking tool, like one that is used to lock crankshaft pulley. Can be some universal. Adjustible. I have that one, also i use tool for blocking one camshaft pulley to another. https://www.amazon.com/DPTOOL-Camshaft-Sprockets-Holding-Compatible/dp/B0BYP231KX Also many mechanic make own blocking tools.

i bought this tool for 200$ https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005007567631042.html

i am driving skoda karoq 1.5 tsi evo 1, 150 ps, i am second owner, it have 85000 km on board. everything works nice. in documentation says it is model 2020? but it is produced in 04.09.2019. most of parst i changed have 19, front rotors, some plastics, all have 2019. stamped in plastic, and that stuff. also car was put on traffic in 12.2019. yesterdy i diassemled instrument cluster (analog one) and found marks that it is produced in 3.2020. i think it is not changed 5 months after car was on road, i barely pull it out, it was very hard to do. is anyone have similar situation: car model 2020, produced in last months of 2019, have parts on which is stamped 2020?

yes, i have karoq 2019 with evo 1. it is euro 6 engine, but evo 2 is euro 7 ready.. evo 2 have cat and gpf one next to another near engine, but evo 1 have gpf and part od cat near engine, and one more cat 1 meter away. those engines also have some other changes wich are connected to ACT, on evo 2 it works with little difference. i dont know why it was second cat on evo 1 so far away, but cat rarely can be blocked, i never heard of that. GPF can, but i didnt see it on tsi engines. so both cars have similar equipment, but evo 2 had lower emissions which can put it in euro 7 category, along with with some electromotor in mild hybrid. i have plastic cover but i am removing it when outside is hot summer, or from may to september..

Hello. I have 110 cm emblem classic chrome - black design. I like to replace it with glossy black. Paint of my skoda is royal green. I cant find emblem with this colour. So front part of new from ebay can be separated logo from surface? Can it be separated emblem frame also from surface? I see seller habe two pics: Also this is my car colour

yeah i can monitored it on display, every now and then it works in 2-Cylinder mode.. when i drive steady, same rpms, no much throttle, etc.

in Conti belt (CT1185) have no kevlar fibres, just glass fibres. but technology is different. The tensile members are twisted in opposing directions (anti-clockwise/clockwise), which ensures that the belt can’t twist out of shape. Regularly check the outer belt that drives the alternator and air conditioning compressor, because it is longitudinally braided and when damaged, fibrous pieces are created that often end up under the timing belt and cause it to skip and get damaged. checking timing belt every 50000 kms means pull water pump out, put measuring device and check timing, correct it if i is out of range (1.0 or 1.5 degree) not removing plasic cover, looking to belt and evaluate its condition by lookin at it.

At idle engine stops. If its start / stop system works..

For sure ACT must be deleted and then remap engine. Fuel consumtion will be higher.

only impact gun helps.. blocking crankshaft and do it.

It is because newer bolt is 10.9 and older 8.8 strenght..

I am preparing tuning my 1.5 tsi to about 175 hp, my tuner said that for better success, he will delete ACT. So it want be active, like there is not ACT. My question is if i delete, disable ACT, could i change timing belt and phase it good without complicated and expensive tool with sensors which is done tipically on ACT engines. Because Conti timing set with water pump belt isnt expensive. About 150€. I dont need to do it yet now but i have this regulat tool for 1.4 tsi non act, i am mechanic and can do it myself.?

At 100% it will trigger active regen. Since you drive long trips it may extend. 50% ash oil residue, yiur DPF is only half full of ash, anyway i would do machine clean this 50% of ash and code it like i put new dpf. It will last longer.

My car is same but no rust under rubber. Maybe doors were replaces, original, but nothing like factory ones.

I have seen that before. Small belt should be replaced every 50000. Together with its pulley..

Are Sachs struts confort?

I drain 0.2 l do let it be like msnual says. 😂

It drives softly and i have only issue knocking first 5 minutes driving on my street, bad road, only right side, alfer that driving is confort, no issues with speed humps, i slow down to 20 km/h also because my lower back hurts. And on right shock i see little leak. Rear shocks looks and works great and are hard to compress. Here is mine front right. And should i change all 4? Not expensive, about 250€ all of them. With nuts only.

Mine front absorbers are very weak, so i had to replace them. I can choose Monroe and Kayaba Excel -G. Kyb is much harder, so to get similar confort, should i take Monroe? For karoq 2019. 1.5 TSI Number is 742117SP Front are both 150€ https://web.tecalliance.net/tae/en/parts/cars/assigned?assemblyGroupId=100121&targetId=128287&typeNumber=128287&groups=854#@brc/brands:Car;targetType:cars/assem:SKODA%20KAROQ%20(NU7%2C%20ND7)%201.5%20TSI;targetType:cars;targetId:128287;typeNumber:128287/lnkparts:Shock%20Absorber;targetType:cars;assemblyGroupId:100121;targetId:128287;typeNumber:128287;groups:854

Dear friends, I have a skoda karoq, 2019, 1.5 tsi, 110 kw, front drive. I am the second owner and it has 85,000 kms on the clock, or 53,000 miles. rear shock absorbers are working well, when I push the rear bumper down, the rear part of the car goes down 3 inches and slowly returns. but when I do the same in the front, at the front end, it goes down easier, goes lower and comes back quickly, when I repeat it a couple of times, the front end of the car at the front hood actually swings, up - down. I noticed that when I leave home, the road is worse, the right side of the wheels knock a little and after a minute it stops. it also seems to me that the front right shock absorber has traces of liquid under the protective cuff. but it might also be the humidity, I'm not 100% sure because it's winter. I don't know what the factory shock absorbers are, a colleague who works in VAG service says that in recent years VAG has been installing cheaper products, that the shock absorbers are Monroe. how does your karoq behave when you squeeze the front hood hard and rock the car, does it stop immediately with movement or is it soft and sways? because, maybe it was made softer at the factory. but the back end is hard. and what should I take in case of replacement, Monroe or Kayaba Excel-G? The original ones are 3 times more expensive and that's too expensive for me. the car is out of warranty. thank you very much

I put 0.3 L more, now is 2.3 L inthere, hope not leak on driveshafts.

I did push forward. My engine have belt. I didnt turn it too much, finally i found some tool to rotate bolt on crankshaft clockwise. Sorry it was late i was exhausted and used google translate.

greeting. I have a Karoq 1.5 tsi 2019 with 85,000 km and today I cleaned the carbon buildup on the intake. I cleaned 3 intakes and the fourth remained. I was thinking of turning the crankshaft pulley to close that valve, but I didn't have that key. maybe it's a 23 mm 12 angle wrench or something special. alternatively, I wanted to turn the engine a little by putting the manual transmission in 4th gear, but turning the wheel that was on my jack and the support, the engine did not turn. as if it is in reverse, with a little more resistance, as if the clutch is slipping. I tried all speeds and the same thing, the clutch works when pressed. but I didn't touch anything with the clutch, it works normally, yesterday I came home from work and this morning I lifted one wheel in the air and put a support so that I can remove the engine protection from below. before that I unlocked the car, pulled the manual (electric) and disconnected the battery. maybe it doesn't work if the battery is not connected or similar?

I cannot influence how many greenhouse gases there will be in 30 years and what the consequences will be. there is not only Co2, but also Methane, etc. I have already written several posts about toxic gases coming out of, for example, Euro 5 or 6 cars with disabled exhaust cleaning systems, how cars with an "operated" exhaust system directly endanger the health of people in their immediate vicinity. everyone in this part of the world has the right to clean air and water, this distinguishes us from the inhabitants of Africa and similar countries where there are no standards for air cleanliness. no new egr, dpf or src is worth a person's health. ask yourself: would you have the same attitude if you fell ill with some disease of the respiratory system due to the fact that people disabled the exhaust cleaning systems in order to avoid adequate maintenance and repairs, but instead disabled the broken components to return the car to Euro 4 with its exhaust.

I did not dispute the chemical significance, but the removal of ecological systems from cars does not endanger the health of some people on the other side of the planet. nitrogen oxides and soot particles affect the immediate environment, in contrast to CO2 emissions that are dispersed in the atmosphere and have no local impact.