Karock

For those thinking of changing their car and considering PCP this may prove worth watching:

If the car was in danger of hitting something there is a very good chance that the emergency braking would cut in. Last week a car in front suddenly stopped and I instantly braked but the emergency software had beaten me to it and was already slowing the car.

I have just received this: Makes wheel changing even easier.

From memory It was about 5 years ago

A different car, different engine but when our son had the cam belt changed on his Octavia at 50.000 miles (or 5 years) the VAG trained independent in Bradford said he had never known a cam belt fail in all his years servicing VAG cars..

Thanks Varoom for taking the trouble to post those diagrams. It explains exactly why a cam belt change is so costly as half the engine needs to be dismantled.

Why do you have to be so objectionable! I have always found Toot to be most helpful on this Forum and would sooner take advice from him than someone like you . It is obvious Toot knows his stuff regarding engines etc. But as you apparently cannot grasp that. Perhaps something to do with your background and lack of engineering experience.

Last year our neighbour who has A LR Discovery was saying how it had a winter/snow setting and that driving in winter conditions was no problem. The next day the farm track was icy and he landed in a ditch and had to be pulled out by a tractor. The same day I went down the same track and back up the very slippery 1 in 5 hill with summer tyres ( Bridgestones) without incident, mainly keeping in as high a gear as possible and being as smooth as possible with the right pedal. If I had attempted the hill by going slowly as advised a few posts above the icy hill would have defeated me. On that occasion the ABS, Traction control or whatever was constantly clacking away and certainly did its job.

As you seem to be an expert what sensors other than the ABS sensors are used to detect unwanted differences in the speed or otherwise of the wheels to implement corrective measures be they ABS TRaction control or whatever?

Toot, I bought the alpines as unused 2 years ago on alloys but suspect that they had been hanging around for some time. I could not identify a date code last time I looked

Toot, The tyres are Michelin Alpine on a spare set of wheels. A fair bit ofpremature cracking on the edges ( several owners have complained of this) but they seem to perform very well. ABS, traction control or whatever my understanding is that they all use ABS sensors to detect differences in wheel rotation.

We live at 1000 ft on the Pennines so winters can be quite severe. During the freeze last week our 400 metre farm track was sheet ice and the lane to the nearest B road again sheet ice. I needed to travel to the nearest town so ventured out. To my surprise going downhill there was not the slightest indication of any loss of traction,but even more surprising was the return journey particularly up a very steep part of the lane, no skidding at all. I do have winter tyres all round but was most impressed with the cars performance. The ABS was no doubt working overtime but certainly did its job.

Carlston, you are splitting hairs! The tool is a useful guide to anyone not sure what effect changing tyre size and or profile would have on the speedometer reading, the fact that most speedos are designed by the manufacturer to read slightly high is neither here nor there. www.bertram-hill.com

There is a useful tool that indicates the change in speed when tyres other than those specified by the manufacturer are fitted: Speedo error calculator – speedometer error as a result of tyre size change – Speedometer calibration (tyresizecalculator.com)

The cut off is 1986 so cars before that date are exempt. It depends how keen your MOT tester is but cars after this date could fail if an inappropriate bulb is used in the wrong type of housing.

I have used both Osram Nightbreaker and Phillips extreme vision as replacements on a TVR and the improvement was marginal but there is a downside because both bulbs are basically standard bulbs overrun i.e. do not last very long. Be aware that for cars later than 1986 changing the bulb type from QI to LED or HID in housings not designed specifically for LED or HID is contrary to legislation and could fail an MOT.

Yes, Wheel nuts 17mm, well they are on my 2018 1.5 SEL Karoq I would think that all Karoks would all be 17mm otherwise new tooling would be needed for the plastic caps etc.

I am just about to renew the extended guarantee. The conditions imply that LED headlights are covered but not non LED. See here: https://www.insurewithskoda.co.uk/media/1151/skoda_extended_warranty_cover_booklet_nav_0122.pdf

+1 My experience also but I did find that to clear the error message on the screen that locking and unlocking the car doors did the trick.

Well mine does! While reversing up a narrow unfamiliar lane it put the brakes on and displayed the red alarm thing. On inspection I was about to hit a rock jutting out low down. It does occasionally display the red warning thing when nothing appears to be near but when regularly passing over a very narrow bridge with inches to spare each side it stays silent. So summarising it is worth having but prone to phantom triggers.

The Basic models have fewer bells and whistles so much less to fail long term, things such as electronic handbrake and much else I believe were not featured on the basic models.

On a few occasions the warning signal " low pressure in one of the tyres" has displayed. While on one occasion it was a genuine problem as the tyre was flat but on two other occasions on mesasuring the tyre pressure they were within a few pounds/inch pressure. On the last occasion I noticed that the nearside pressures were about 3 lb/inch2 higher than the offside and realised that the car being parked in bright sun had caused the difference, this was enough to trigger a fault condition so always a good idea to keep a pressure guage in the car. When the Low pressure display occurs if you reset the tyre pressures in the settings menu and no more fault displays occurs all is probably OK if however the display returns then you probably have a flat tyre.

I had a repeat performance this morning where the car refused to recognise the kessy fob. As the Panasonic battery was replaced only recently I knew that was not the problem. I leave the car unlocked so maybe that could be the cause. By locking the car then unlocking the key is then recognised and everything back to normal. Maybe not locking the car upsets the software in some way as it expects a start to follow the unlocking?

Some kind soul on here a few years ago posted this: Checking VIN for SKODA TMBKR7NUXK5007434 | CARInfo If you enter your cars VIN mumber it details the build spec.

Sorry, senior moment I meant "My destinations" I never bother with routes.