T07

When driving you can notice a Regen as the throttle response is a bit less sharp. Also revs will sit at 1000 if a Regen is running. So at junctions you might notice the revs don’t drop.

Sounds like they’re referring to the charge air cooler

On mine it started intermittently, the clutch pedal would almost slap my foot when I first moved the car after it sitting for a day or so. Tried to bleed the clutch but no difference. Was a few months before it failed totally. Yep inside the bell housing. I did the flywheel at the same time but mechanic reckoned it was fine so could have got away with just the clutch.

Your slave cylinder might be on the way out

Sorry thought you meant the option to disable or turn it down. Yep they all have them just not the options in the selector on the old ones. Turned mine off with OBDeleven

Only newer ones. My 2014 doesn’t. Not sure when it changed.

Maybe topping it up every couple of tanks of fuel. So what’s that every 800-900 miles or so?

Nope didn’t need to put it under pressure. There was no noticeable rough running to be fair. Just the lack of coolant!

Sorry should have added, it could be a dodgy connector to the control module that has a wee connector plug on it. Try giving it a clean and refitting. Might help

Yes have had similar. Seems to be a dodgy connector on the battery. So check those. Worth getting it scanned for faults. Mine showed an intermittent open circuit fault

Slave cylinder is failing.

Octavia with removable westfalia. Never bother to remove it and absolutely no issues with parking sensors

That cooler looks ok. I had white residue in mine. To check the charge cooler you can remove the temperature sensor and put a bore scope in. I got a cheap one off amazon and you could see the drops forming inside.

Have a read of this https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/Blog/mqb-platform-ea288-engine-tuning-184-cuna-cupa/

You’re also missing a lot of heat protection around those sensors. Should look like the attached

I would be rejecting the car and asking for a refund. Coolant issues are a nightmare on these engines. https://www.moneyhelper.org.uk/en/everyday-money/buying-and-running-a-car/your-rights-if-something-is-wrong-with-your-car

Needs twisting aswell I’m pretty sure

https://fuse-box.info/skoda/skoda-octavia-mk3-5e-2017-2018-fuse-box-diagram

For anyone searching this, the tools below worked perfect. Just need to clear the fault to make sure it’s all worked ok https://amzn.eu/d/09Np3mHK

That’s looking in from the front of the wheel

It didn’t show an error on mine. Was just maxed out as it was the arm that snapped so lights just stayed at the lower limit. Will try get a pic of its location

That’s strange. I had to replace the front level sensor on mine when it snapped. 2014 with bi xenon. Pic of the broken part

There’s a front sensor aswell on these

Ohh and coolant pump 3 is towards the back of the engine at the bottom. The other electric pump is towards the front just below the oil filter which pumps coolant around the charge cooler circuit. The coolant circuits are quite complicated on these engines

My guess would be your heater matrix is blocked forcing coolant out the overflow of your reservoir. Have a google and you’ll find plenty of threads about it