J.R.

Not true, they might be getting the best efficiency from the fuel but are using much more of it than at lower speeds, I do agree that each speed increment above that comes at a big price. Its the sweet spot for most of us, the compromise between longer journey times and minimising fuel cost, its also less stressfull than faster and indeed slower driving. Once when I was very bored during I played with my MK1 Octavia which would happily travel at tickover in 5th gear without any applied throttle, the ECU increasing the fuelling to avoid stalling when necessary, it equated to just under 30mph in town and I would often do just that where there were speed controlled traffic lights. I did a to and fro run to the next village about 5km overall, the average mpg went over the maximum 99mpg that the display would show, the instantaneous one swung wildly from zero indicated to 60mpg when it had to pour back on the coals, I did a similar run up and down the hill to the aéroport which consumed a little more but still exceeded the 99 mpg display maximum. I did the same thing with the MK2 during covid with the same results, that gave the actual average, I cant recall the figure but it was well over 100mpg. Of course nobody is going to drive like that for the sake of the DMF if nothing else and the road & traffic conditions would dictate frequent stops but it proved beyond doubt that when I am down to the last litre of fuel, a regular occurence with my obsession in using the entire range between fill-ups, if I dont know where the next fuel station will be the slower I drive the further I can get and that means well below 55 mph.

What is cheeky about an unscheduled oil change? I keep hearing younger people using "cheeky" in what seems to me a completely inappropriate manner, I cannot understand what they are trying to convey by using it, when I ask them they have no answer and I conclude that for them at least its just another lame superfluous filler word, what were you trying to convey?

I guess from your unconnected lengthy outpouring that the answer to my question is never! In which case would you please stop saying "I will not say any more on the subject" before continuing without even pausing for breath.

I absolutely did not say that.

I based my comment on the knowledge that slow running marine diesels could reach 50% thermal efficiency, that is an engine running at a fixed speed for maximum volumetric efficiency for the given fuel, bunker diesel which is very different to road fuel. Lets say for the sake of argument that a turbo-diesel can achieve 35% thermal efficiency then that will be at full load operation accelerator pedal to floor (cant use WOT for a diesel as it does not have a throttle butterfly) 3000 rpm for my engine, that thermal efficiency will only be realised in a brief transient condition when overtaking and probably above the speed limit, at normal driving and cruising engine speeds say 1200 - 2200 rpm the thermal efficiency will be way less. Petrol engines are indeed improving but their maximum efficiency lets say 20% is again at wide open throttle peak torque RPM, during normal cruising with a barely open throttle the volumetric efficiency is strangled. My gut feeling was that petrol fuelled road vehicles were around 9-10 percent thermal efficiency and diesel in the low to mid teens.

I didn't think it was anywhere near as high as 35%, maybe at the flywheel under wide open throttle at peak torque but far less during normal driving conditions, then there are all the further transmission losses before the energy arrives at the delivery point, the wheels, losses which I believe EVs do not suffer. I admit at present I know nothing about EV power transmission, I'm assuming a motor in the hub of each driven wheel but then I have seen Tesla transaxles which might have differentials. My interest at present is the economics of the power source and the evolution in the electricity supply market.

I believe that you should either refit the original bulbs and then delete the fault codes or fit appropriate shunt resistors and delete the codes, have you even measured the resistance of your (not) Canbus LED bulbs? Your desire to have a different wavelength light means you are not only willing to possibly suffer a reduction in vision, dazzling other motorists but that you are happy to disable a valuable safety system and rather than concentrating on the actual problem, the resistance of these (not) Canbus bulbs you want to make hit or miss coding changes which are very likely to disable most of the Central Electric functions. Is the potential price paid really worth it for your lights to be a different colour which you cannot see from behind the wheel?

Graham, how many times on this thread alone forgetting all the others have you said words similar to "thats it, I will not be saying any more on the subject"? Any chance of you ever walking the walk?

I wont watch the rant thanks, I thought it was the presenter I remembered from way back when and who grated on me even back then, as you say it was surprisingly civil.

Do most people who own cars have them repaired by a VW dealer or specialist? Even those who own VAG vehicles? I would not make that assumption any more than I would assume that the OP is not capable of removing and replacing an LCD screen and needs to be given orders.

Pot, kettle, black 😒 The OP expressed a desire to remove and replace his unit which we should respect, you might talk candidly to a workmate or one of your children in such a manner if you believe what they are proposing is beyond their capability but should reflect before using the same tone to a stranger on a forum.

I'm pleased that you have found a garage that appears to be on planet sensible. Its been close to 30 years now that vehicles have had superb crankshaft driven oil pumps with none of the fragility of previous generations, the first I came across was on the Ford Zetec engines, they have so much reserve capacity that it really takes a lot of FOD (foreign object damage) to make them underperform and which would usually cause other engine issues. A partially blocked pick up pipe is a strong contender.

Thanks for the BYD video, one of the few EV ones where the presenter has not got up my nose and it has not been full of narcissism, quite and old school car review in many ways. A very impressive vehicle and whilst it has all the things that set me off like any other modern car, (square tea-trays on the dashboard for instance) I found myself really liking it, that is a first time in a couple of decades that I have desired a new car. 😯 I am not surprised about the Chinese buld quality and expect it will be very reliable. I thought the front seats looked superb, other than Tillet carbon shell race seats I have never found a seat to be attractive or desirable. Are there any prices for it yet? I think it will really shake up the European and US manufacturers.

Well they just might be correct with the 0.4 bar at idle but at the very least that would point to a faulty low pressure warning switch, they sure ain't correct in it needing £8800 throwing at it to resolve the alleged low oil pressure. Are you sure the correct filter is fitted and the anti-drain valve is not leaking?

Easiest thing would be to put the incandescent bulbs back and make sure everything is OK, then compare to the the resistance of these shonky LEDS, calculate a suitable shunt resistor using the parallel resistor equation and source some making sure they have enough current carrying capacity, then you will have the white light that you seem to desire and twice as many potential future electrical faults. Pretty soon people will be hankering after yellow lights and I will be cool again 😄

That's a lot of money to me but I understand your point. €150 is peanuts compared to €3600!

Thermostat or maybe a stuck sliding sleeve shroud on the waterpump, the former more likely if its taking 30 miles to get tp temperature, there is also a DSG thermostat if your car has that transmission, they often fail. Ignore the temperature guage it will show a rock steady 90°c between 77 and 117°c, thats the figure that others have given, I just know that its a crazy wild range. So not being able to trust the temp guage I judge how many miles it takes for the heater to start to pass warm air relative to the outside temp, usually 1-2 miles, 2-3 in sub zero conditions

I thought you meant the Warty! I didn't see any of those when travelling in Ecuador in 2004, I would surely have taken a photo if I had.

The OP asked for ideas not to be given orders of what to do, they were appreciative of Felix's suggestion of an economic replacement and no doubt the other contributors also.

That is not a design consideration for any automobile manufacturer.

Cycle the switch and try in all 3 positions. If no joy remove the switch, check wiring is connected, disconnect and test switching with a multimeter on audible continuity setting.

They do not have Canbus, that is just marketing speak, Canbus goes nowhere near the bulbs, they may claim to have a shunt resistor to emulate the resistance of an incandescent bulb but as you have found talk is cheap. If you are going to chance your arm changing a byte to "reset" without knowing what that does (it certainly is not for a change to LED bulbs) then please store or make a note of the existing coding although it seems you have a photograph of it. I think you need to be looking for another byte for bulb monitoring system, perhaps even in a different controller.

Yes. I've done two but struggle now with close work, soldering and welding since having the multi-focaux cataract surgery in my one functioning eye (they are designed for binocular vision), no garage is going to even think about repairing one and I only did them on a nothing to lose and unpaid basis.

I would expect it to take no more than 10 minutes to remove the steering cowling parts and perhaps the steering wheel to find the cause, worst case scenario would be replacement of the clockspring but a DIY person could repair it. Best case scenario slight realignment of the cowling halves on re-assembly.

How old is your vehicle?