J.R.

That you are the one owner from new might add some weight.

Nobody can answer that without seeing the extent of the rust.

If you dont have the space or tools to remove the wheel then I very much doubt that you will have the space and tools to fit sound deadening with the wheel in place. You probably could remove the liner but would be crazy to do so, I have removed the fixings and freed off the front half with the wheel in place to remove the bumper or something and it was a real pain, I would remove the wheel next time. I also suspect that even if you could remove all the fixings you would have to cut it in half to get it out over the wheel, no way will you want to fit sound deadening through such a small gap unless you are a gynaecologist!

Your chances of them forking out for an 11 year old vehicle are somewhere between No Hope and Bob Hope. I believe they offered some sort of protection for a year or 18 months against consequential failures from the Emissions Fix as an inducement to bring in the pigeons, was yours done recently?

Another muppet that not only takes up two parking spaces but then shows it off to the world. I didn't get to hear what he had to say, the initial "YO! Whatsup!" was enough for me to abandon it.

OMG, the second one is even worse 😯 After bolting on the bracket which wrecks the structural strength of the chassis rail he makes out he lost the video of the repairs around it which would only have been bodged fibreglass anyway. Then it cuts to him spraying the (not) repaired area under the wheelarch which is simply paper or maybe loft insulation poked around it, you can see it blowing around from the spray underseal 😒 then he utters the memorable words "good as new!" 😯 Only in Merica, I used to think the videos I had seen of dodgy vehicles on garage ramps were set ups but having seen these two and knowing that such a bodge kit and its bodge instructions are "Proudly made in America" makes me realise just how many death traps there must be out there.

1st video, what a 'kin bodge! 😒 Last one looks like a proper welded repair, now going to look at the second one.

I tried it on my diesel, it just started with exactly the usual parameters despite the throttle to the floor then after a momentary but perceptable pause when the revs dropped to the usual running idle speed the engine then revved up to the stationary 3Krpm rev limit in response to the throttle pedal position.

Any idea what caused the overheating? High resistance? Excessive current? Continuous and not intermittent use?

My understanding of the posting is not that he will be replacing the front suspension but having welded repairs to the area around the Macpherson strut top mountings.

I am having second thoughts about this, I can see the utility of being able to crank the engine without it starting after an oil filter change, someone mentioned the manual saying do not put the throttle to the floor when starting the engine. I will try it on mine but its a diesel engine, could anyone with a TSi try starting their vehicle with the throttle pedal fully depressed and report back what the result was please?

Clear flood mode is an urban legend, a hang up from over 30 years ago when all but a handfull of vehicles had already transitioned to ECU controlled fuel injection. On a carburettor opening the throttle butterfly wide open will create a zero depression across the idle jet and no fuel will be drawn, it was a very valuable gesture to clear a flooded engine which could be a frequent occurrence with manual and primitive automatic choke controls. All modern petrol engined vehicles have fly by wire accelerator controls, if you put your foot to the floor when starting it wont make the slightest difference to the stepper motor controlled throttle valve, it will remain closed or partially open as the ECU instructs it for the optimum starting configuration according to engine temperature and a host of other input variables. If there is not combustion in a cylinder it will be down to a weak spark, faulty injector or no fuelling, ragged starting and uneven initial idle are all indications of a spark plug problem on one cylinder, four would not fail at once, with a good spark it is pretty much impossible for a fuel injected ECU controlled engine to flood and in any case the fuelling would be inhibited very quickly to protect the catastrophic convertor. The engine will not have started due to no spark (immobiliser etc) or no fuelling putting the throttle to the floor will have had no influence as to why it did eventually start, you should not discount well intentioned advice about having the battery checked, you will find multiple examples on this forum of starting and random other electronic problems being resolved by a battery change, I'm not suggesting that you replace it but have it tested and also have a VCDS scan for fault codes. A faulty engine temperature sensor could create an over-rich starting mixture (but only within strictly defined paramaters, not a flooding condition) and coupled with worn spark plugs may cause some restarting difficulties on a hot or partially warmed up engine, this could be checked using live data on VCDS. I think you have probably answered your own question.

Is that a question or a statement? I don't have an app and have no desire to have one, I answered both your questions pointing out where I was not certain of the figures, SteveTheElder has confirmed the 100 hours, 1000kms and 2 hours.

Tell it to Skoda not me! They will likely be equally disinterested. I do not have an app to see anything so it cant be me that you noticed.

First question. The long term measurement resets after 1000 or 2000 miles or so many hours, I cant recall the figure but its a lot of driving, once reset to zero it will obviously show a low "long term" measurement. That is based on earlier vehicles than yours but Skoda has always been consistent on the reporting. Second question, if you make a second journey within 90 minutes of a previous one they are counted together, again the time might be different on your later vehicle but the reporting has been consistent for 2 decades. As an example if I did a channel crossing via Eurotunnel 35 minute crossing time my car would log one single journey from Picardie to Sussex, if I took the ferry coming back (1.5 - 4 hours) it would show a journey from Sussex to Dover and another from Dieppe to Picardie.

Some punctuation, sentences and paragraphs would help, no problem with a long story that I can actually read and understand. You lost me when you wrote that you started the car while [the] engine was running.

100% agree with your sentiments. If the piston cooling jet solenoid is stuck open, it may even be its fail safe mode, then the low pressure output of the oil pump would be much lower than the specification.

Steering lock only functions if you turn the wheel after removing the key, the exception is if the wheel happens to be in the exact position for the indent which is not straight ahead, if there is strain from the tyres caused by turning the wheel after key removal and engaging the steering lock then you may sometimes have to wiggle the wheel to allow the key to turn, this is almost certainly described in the owners manual. If the above is not what is happening then the problem is either with a damaged or incorrectly cut key or the lock cylinder and its tumblers, some graphite powder (use a pencil) on the key may help.

Of course you do it quickly and not when you are driving through bends or needing to brake although it sounds like you took the vehicle out of gear and allowed the engine to stall which is unnecessary and creates a risk, all you need to do is release the throttle and flick the ignition on and off, takes a fraction of a second, the throttle release is not essential but prevents snatching when combustion resumes.

All absolutely normal operation and designed in features, sounds like your garage never had any ideas to start with! The heater flap goes to recirculating mode during the aforementioned events, the fan is whirring audibly because it is no longer trying to suck through what is probably a clogged pollen filter, I'm not sure why its doing the same after 45 minutes but it could well be a defrost cycle for the evaporator which would create the puddle of water which again is completely normal. Try changing the cabin filter, I must do mine as well. I reckon your garage has simply bought one of the plug it in and leave it to earn you money AC recharging stations and has little or no clue about the operation of the cars AC system.

If no dowels then they are fitted bolts (close tolerance) in reamed holes, I bet you a pound to a penny that the ARP bolts as strong as they may be are not fitted bolts so are a chocolate teapot and responsible for the failures. Even counterboring both components on 2 opposite fixings and using tubular dowels would be better than a friction bodge. If the shim is to be used between the flywheel and crankshaft mating faces then their claim of 3 times the contact is a lie plain and simple, frictional contact or lack of is not even the problem, it is a result of radial play which is the problem and would not be apparent on any engine made by any manufacturer for the last 100 years, until non engineer aftermarket tuners get involved.

That made me laugh out loud 😀 No way is even a smidgin of unburnt fuel allowed to pass through to the exhaust on a modern ECU equipped engine with Lambda controlled mixture, faulty spark plugs aside and I second the advice to check them, but you would notice the misfire, its been 30 years now since anyone was able to flood a petrol engine. Spark plug insulators absorbing fuel vapour overnight! Where did you hear that one from? Does your vehicle have the stop/start system? If so the battery will have been partially discharged before your two engine starts and 25m travel, if it was in good health it would not have struggled to start a 3rd time the next day, if you know anyone with an electronic battery tester then I recommend you have it checked to see what it estimates the remaining life to be.

That your car had a different failure does not mean its a myth, VCDS is definitely the way to go, I wish I had done so many years before but the MK1 was just too reliable and did not need it until in hindsight the end.

My turbo was still working like a sewing machine albeit one with an oven cleaner addiction at 325000 miles, the Touran which replaced it (for my chauffeur pal who sold it to me) I lost count of how many turbos he paid out for, it ran to over £10K on a similar mileage, all because he would not cycle the ignition while carrying punters (I get that) and used the main dealer for repairs and servicing, one can of oven cleaner would have saved him £10K + I would not get any piece of mind from a pattern part or reconditioned turbo for a vehicle long out of production, the same goes for most of the factory fitted parts that have not let go or are repairable. All that car ever had was one £8 timing belt at 250000 miles no tensioner pulleys, no water pump, also a set of brushes in the original alternator (came as an assembly with regulator) and a second hand coolant temp sensor.

You do not usually need to stop the vehicle to reset the turbo actuator, just cycling the ignition should do it. 100% the case on a MK1 Octavia, I must have done it hundreds if not thousands of times over the years, I cant be so confident on the MK2 as I can't be sure the vanes stuck on mine but I had cycled the ignition several times when it did throw funnies and it always resolved it but it was not a regular thing like on the MK1. Oven cleaner enema recommended if in doubt.