J.R.

Given your experiences I would buy older to get an EU4 emissions diesel, EU3 even better but thats probably an age where reliability other than the engine is an issue and it would lack the features that you have probably grown accustomed to and appreciate.

That does not surprise me.

The same initial fuelling and starting but engine stopping immediately is also a feature of the immobiliser. If you try to start the car with a key that does not have an RFID tag or one that has not been stored as valid in the immobiliser memory then the above will happen. If you have a spare working key for the car try using that for a while to see of the problem stops. The RFID tags are quite bulletproof, they are in a small glass vial and are only likely to get broken if removed from the key and trodden on, the inductive RFID reader coil around the ignition barrel can also cause problems. If you have access to VCDS then all the above including crank sensor will show up as fault codes and there is also a list of engine shut down codes.

Thanks, I thought that was the situation, so to confirm both V5's had you listed as the new registered keeper and recorded one previous owner?

That's what happens to the vast majority of new vehicles that either are leased or are punted out to fleet operators or extended family members of anyone connected with the manufacturer and dealer network so they can then be resold after some miles are put on them at a higher price than the net price new after the VAT was reclaimed, those that aren't foisted off to mug punters with the fairy tale of being a sales directors car go to auction, often closed auctions to the manufacturers main dealers. Whether its the main dealers or smaller dealers they are selling for a profit so not dropping value. When a dealer in the UK buys a car at auction and sells it on does the V5 reflect that or just show the original registered keeper?

I'm 100% with you, this is not the first poster on this forum to not only be wantonly ignorant of the effects of their abdicating decision making of such a simple function on the safety of oncoming drivers but also insults them. The central barrier on autoroutes and dual carriageways also stop the high beam assist from recognising oncoming traffic and hence dazzling them, some new HGVs do it too, probably all the new ones have it but as the drivers are professionals like yourself I reckon very very few use it. Editted, its easier for an HGV with said system to see over the barrier and detect oncoming headlights because of their height.

They are pretty bulletproof, in over half a million miles spread between 3 VAG vehicles (one with 325k miles) the only problem I ever had was once with corrosion of the solenoid terminal with the battery cable, nut slackened, cable wiggled and it was fine, this is the only actual breakdown I have had in the last 25 years of driving VAG diesels. On my MK1 I ran out of fuel and did not know how to prime and bleed the injection system (VAG diesels were so reliable I stopped learning) so cranked the engine mercifully for what seemed like more than 5 minutes, I stopped when dense smoke from the starter windings came out from under the bonnet. I thought I had killed the starter, anything else is foutu when the insulation breaks down and lets the smoke out 😁 but this went on for another 5 years and 120K miles before the car was scrapped, it probably would have gone on for a lot longer.

I bet it was only localised heating to 130°c in the vicinity of the temperature sensor due to non circulation through the radiator (designed warm up strategy), 10-15km from a -5°C or zero degree start is not enough time for a diesel engine to have heated the volume of coolant to 130°C unless towing treble its weight limit uphill through switchback bends. That there was not an overheat warning message lends weight to my theory, the engine has more than one temperature sensor, for the last 30 years VAG vehicles had fiddled the temperature gauge readings to read a rock steady 90°C over a wide range of actual coolant temperatures so as not to concern the driver with normal running fluctuations, from the sound of things I reckon that has been removed on your Kodiaqs. When it happened to you did the heater output cook you? Could you smell overheating?

Good point, I agree, I had not read the whole thread, on my MK1 I was replacing the fluid after 15 years, should not have bothered as it was better before!

You will have probably been ignorant of the bleed nipple on the master cylinder as I was. Others say there are two on the master cylinder, too long ago now for me to recall.

Whatever you do don't cry! 😄 I'll get me coat.....................................

How would that work with a taxi then? Or is yours a special warranty and they are doing this to prevent covering private hire vehicles etc?

Expect them to pull the same trick if you have a warranty claim before the next service!!!!

Nothing but upsides for me. Cost was expensive, had I been able to have my remap done at Celtic Tunings headquarters it would have been done free with the remap but due to the covid restrictions and my moving house the remap was done by one of their agents. A couple of years later I dropped in on the offchance to ask the question, I had 20 minutes to spare before my stepmothers funeral nearby the best I could hope for was to go back later in the day but they did it there and then, it cost £250 but I was not going to argue given the service I recieved.

"Undefatted", a good description for me post confinement I hope this year will be the one when I return to my previous form, the broken back put paid to it last year.

Can someone tell me what fuel type the engine of a Kodiaq 190 is please, I am not a mind reader. I believe that it is only the diesel variant that has the sliding sleeve water pump but happy to be proved wrong. I dont think either a petrol or a diesel engine is capable of overheating in 4 miles from a zero degree start, was there any significant heat coming from the heater? Localised slight overheating I can understand (dependant on the location of the sender) before the thermostat opens and when the coolant is only circulating through the heater radiator, normally the VAG fudge factor gauge correction hides that, perhaps the gauges are now telling the truth? Oil temperature is correct which makes me think that the engine just has very good warm up coolant circulation management for a better emissions rating. If you dont know the history of your vehicle it could perhaps not have any anti-freeze in the coolant, your thoughts of something freezing could indeed cause the higher readings through a lack of circulation, back again to the question was there significant heat coming out of the heater?

It makes sense as the hatchback at the point of measurement only has a single sheet of pressed steel behind it, the estate has a thick rear door with trim panel which intrudes inside.

I paid to have the emissions fix software rolled back, I never hear an interrupted regen now (twice in 3 years), I think its happening every 1000kms or maybe 1000 miles which is a safety default, my DPF never builds up enough soot to trigger a regen due to the passive regeneration, yours would not either but for the software update. 250-300 miles means the DPF is working well. When you are more used to VCDS try output tests on the EGR to see if you have one and if its doing as commanded, hopefully it will not!!!!

They have even changed "calculated" which was a true term for "specified" the muppets!

Its a calculated figure based on the particle filter back pressure which is nice and low. You need to find the parameter for oil ash volume service limit, it could be that 125ml is beyond the maximum, it does not help that they keep changing the descriptions and units of measure. Do the measurements again before another 10km has passed and see how far it says the vehicle has travelled, mine is in meters and you have to divide by 1000, you cant trust anything in VCDS to be what it says it is. The soot (carbon mass?) should go up to 22.5 or 25g before a regen is triggered. If it builds up slowly then your DPF is working OK and if the oil ash volume (estimated) is too high maybe you need to do the adaptation in VCDS to tell it that it has a new DPF fitted, that might make a difference.

That makes complete sense with what has been written. Thanks Langers!

For the CT alone I would just shine the dipped beam against a garage door at night and set to the headlights with gaffer tape, on the assumption that the headlight aim is not too high all the OP needs to do is to stop the kick up to the left. For safer driving in future then new units from Ebay.fr/ Amazon.fr (or any EU country) Autodoc etc is money well spent, unless of course the units can be set for RH dipping.

225000 miles on MK1 Octavia 1.9Tdi, at that inspection I could see that the belt plies were beginning to separate. 150K miles on a MK2 Octavia PD engine that puts additional stresses on the belt and no signs of degradation. I'm currently at 140 something K miles and 10 years on the 2.0 Tdi Yeti but VAG have now increased the service limit to 150K miles I believe, I am going to start inspections now.

My MK2 with projector lamps didn't. Those beam deflectors are a chocolate teapot and make the car dangerous to drive but if they do the job for the CT then thats great. @MichaelTL if you can see the part number on one of the light units (usually on the rear) a Google search will reveal what type of light they are, or post the number on here and someone will know My pal who is the oracle regarding matriculation in France says you are right and I am wrong regarding the TVA I am pleased to say 😃 If only I had included the Elan (which had already been in France since 2006) on the inventory of my customs declaration when I sold my UK house 3 years ago and finally moved the remainder of my things over, I think it is going to get added! The declaration and initial inventory was for the first journey which they kept a copy of and I added to it for the subsequent ones. Nothing ventured nothing gained.

I think its always been one month for residents in the UK and other EU countries Lee, I speak for France and the UK but don't know about Germany. To precise that one month if you move to the country and take up residency which starts on your first day, there are the god fearing brigade that will wag their fingers and say that you are illegal driving your car from the ferry , most people when moving or moving back will do several back and forths during the first 6 months or longer anyway. Pre Brexit there was free movement and nobody in authority gave a rats but they always had the possibility to seize the vehicles if someone, or in this case their vehicle was undesirable. Also residence then and to a certain degree even now was where you claimed it was at the time it suited you if you had dwellings in either country.