J.R.

They are only slightly too high, very marginal, I assume the tester set the headlamp height control (if you have one) to the high setting for the test as he should, did you by any chance have the boot loaded or do you have sagging rear springs? Someone else may tell me that your car has self leveling headlamps and the above is not relevant, if they are self leveling then you definitely cannot adjust them but equally there may be a fault somewhere. The good news is that you wont need to replace your headlights. Can you please show the rapport final de contrôle technique with the avis défavorables

Well I'm darned!!!! Now I look carefully it was a regular shape, the oil drips looked like deformation.

If your eyes are good enough for surface mount repairs you dont need directions from me to find the RFID capsule. Its not on the PCB.

Given the low cost of a pattern part replacement keyfob you would be daft to try replacing surface mount components, are you sure they are damaged (if so how?) and not on the other side of the PCB. If you use a new keyfob you will need to remove the small RFID capsule from the old one to fit to the new.

The internal pipe will be a pick up pipe for the second half of the tank, the lift pump will draw from both reservoirs together but there must be some valving to isolate the first side to empty or the pump would suck air when there was fuel remaining in the other side. When mine ran out (I pushed my luck too far) and I was using VCDS to prime the system I looked at the fuel level measurements, both sides showing zero litres, after using a jerrycan it had 5l in the right hand reservoir and still nothing on the left.

Seriously? Escalation is what happens when you show weakness to a thief, in their mind if you were daft enough to be exploited the first time you deserve to be taken for as much as they can extract, we have a word for it in France un pigeon - a willing victim. The inner lip has taken a bashing, did it obstruct the sump removal?

I've had an experiment and it was me highlighting the text to quote what you had quoted. Instead of doing this: I should have done this: every day is a learning experience.

Ask them, not what I think.

£900 to take photographs of something that they have already been paid £1000 to allegedly inspect with their eyes says it all (emoticons not working but am expressing sad one) Its the VAG modus operundi get the customer to keep jumping through stupidly priced hoops before ultimately refusing the claim in any case.

I would have thought that obvious, there are access plates to be removed on each side for the dual level sensors, the one on the right is also the pick up pipe, filter and roll over cut off valve.

Be patient, it will sort itself out, refill the tank if you are in doubt.

You are using a fraction of the engines output so not a good idea. The cam timing is done when fitting the new belt, I would bet my arm they screwed up and that is your problem, the loss of a small amount of torque and power at medium throttle openings and cruising is not so noticeable, pulling away from a standstill using partial throttle the loss would cause RPM drop and stalling. I was going to ask if the cam belt had been changed recently.

I have to use a lot more revs doing a hillstart towing a very heavy load, an uncomfortable amount of revs and clutch slip, if the first gear ratio were lower it would not need it but that brings problems in every day driving as I described earlier which would not be acceptable.

Normal behaviour, the gauge always reads zero when the ignition is turned off, "quite a few miles" is meaningless in this context, you need to say how many, due to the geometry of the swinging float arm its hard for a fuel gauge to be accurate at 90-100% full tank, usually they are very slow to drop, the trip history and fuel consumption since fill up are used to give a more accurate full scale reading and for the calculation of miles remaining, this data was lost when your battery was disconnected. Drive some more miles and both the fuel gauge reading and miles remaining display will become more plausible. The saddle tank uses 2 sender units and there is no equalisation balance pipe between the two sides, it must therefore have 2 pick up pipes and some valve arrangement to stop it drawing air when the first side has run dry, I wish I had thought of that and studied the pick up/sender unit when I had mine apart in further detail. In VCDS measuring blocks you can read the overall fuel level, example 40 litres, and the level of sender 1 and sender 2, example 23 litres and 17 litres. I'm happy to be proved wrong about the absence of a balance pipe, I did not go specifically looking for it although it should be apparent, not having one brings complications as described above so better to have one if physically possible.

Isn't a minus reading toe in? I dont know the specified reading for your vehicle but it is usually parallel to a slight amount of toe in, your is either in the range (if negative is toe in) or only slightly outside, I would live with it, see if you like the handling and response and monitor the tyre wear before considering a change.

You are only soliciting a small amount of the available power when pulling away slipping the clutch, the revs dipping does sound like a flat spot or emissions related ECU intervention, try doing a hillstart on a very steep incline without the caravan to see if you feel the same thing to a lesser degree, the extra weight with the caravan could be highlighting a deficiency that is there all the time.

Yes I did! - Is that a fully enclosed and sealed airbox with the foam filter inside and drawing from the original air ducting or as you describe it a lid? Looking carefully again I can answer my own question, it is, - my apologies. It wont be as free flowing or filter as well as the OE pleated paper filter but they are massively overspecified so as to remain within emissions limits after 200K kms in dusty areas, if you prefer the sound then I commend you on being able to hide it so well. Why the blue silicone hose? Is it for bling? I have not read through the whole thing to see if you have changed the turbo-charger, intercooler etc.

Because all turbo-charged engines give so much more power with pre-heated induction air 🤣

All modern clutches (asbestos free) have an awful smell with slippage transmitting large torque, it need only be a couple of seconds and the smell will hang around in the engine bay for weeks. A few hill starts is not major wear on the clutch, if it was already worn you will soon notice slippage on upshifts to the higher gears when towing at speed or up hills. Its just a horrible experience, we have memory, the clutch linings dont!

Thanks, its an acronym that is not really decipherable.

Could you kindly explain what FAB and MCU is supposed to mean please? I can probably guess the last 2 letters of the latter one.

I know my Yeti is not a real 4x4 but is physically capable (although not legally) of towing massive loads which I have done many times, when doing so and having to do a hill start with the diesel engine I miss having the low range gearbox of a proper 4x4 which would take all the stress away from both the clutch and myself!

6th gear is a very tall ratio only suitable for cruising and light acceleration when unladen. The pulling away from standstill is a problem with all diesels particularly turbo-diesels, the final drive ratio is already high for cruising at 2-2.5K rpm, first gear is not as low as a petrol engined variant due to the increased low down torque of the diesel and more specifically the limited rev range, a common low first gear ratio would leave a diesel vehicle accelerating turning across a junction needing to change gear before the manouevre is complete taking one hand off the wheel. Unladen the diesel vehicle with the taller first gear will not struggle from a standing start but more care must be taken when feeding in the clutch to avoid a stall, laden becomes a big problem, either smoky clutch slipping and higher revs or stalling, I find it best to slow right down in advance and read the road ahead to try and avoid stopping at all costs on an incline.

No problem, take no notice of the other poster, he sometimes has bad days.

yes a very common failure, when it happened on mine the only symptom was the engine surging instead of slowing down when I took my foot off the throttle at lower RPMs, like someone else was pressing on it, very disconcerting as it would happen slowing for traffic lights, pedestrian crossings and traffic in front. One of the few bits where pattern parts invariably are as bad as the failed original, I think its a green VAG one that you have to look out for.