J.R.

I believe if I had to do mine again with decent facilities like yours I could do it in 5 hours, the garage wanted 16 hours labour , that was never going to happen. I left the steering rack hanging and think I would do the same again. What is the height to the underside of those ceiling joists you have and do you find with that limitation you have enough height to work comfortable underneath the car on jobs like this? Same question for suspension and brakes.

Driveshaft balance is neither going to cause a hum at high speed nor a clonking when pulling away or reversing.

The spare belt I carry is one for non AC, it was a deliberate choice, I bought it when I had an AC coupling problem so I could run with the unit disconnected, as a spare belt it will serve for 2 potential breakdowns, a broken belt (temporary replacement) and a broken AC pump.

I know exactly what the problem is. Its easy to run the belt the wrong way around the tensioner and/or idler pulleys, the falling off is a big clue that the tensioner has run out of travel. A better description would be following the wrong path. I did it myself as the incorrect routing looks the most obvious, I didn't have the benefit of a diagram and it took a lot of head scratching, the correct routing looked so so wrong but the belt tensioner sat in the correct mid position and the belt covered a greater circumferential area on the driven pulleys.

6 years down the line seeing how sought after Yetis are especially the 4x4 variant I am doubly proud to have saved mine from being broken for spares! If it wasn't for the help of @MikeTheThinker it could not have happened I was not to know how desirable they would become through rarity and also how much I would enjoy owning and driving it because it really wasn't and still isn't the right car for my needs but its 100% the right car for my wants, I bought it as a challenge project.

Only applicable to a vehicle that spends its entire life driving in a dead straight line. More valid concerns would be the weight capacity and rolling diameter for the ABS and electronic stability systems, I managed to get an 18% space saver with almost identical rolling diameter to my 16" tyres and also the correct load rating so I can continue a long journey if ever it is needed, it weighs a ton and its not the steel rim but the tyre being as thick and heavy as a forklift truck tyre and about as compliant!

I can only get better! If someone can explain to me what a new type engine with 147kw is when its at home (petrol? Diesel? capacity? engine code?) I can do some googling as it does not look like the TSB is going to be forthcoming. Flywheel mounting bolts not being a blind hole and going into the crankshaft oil gallery drilling is a major design failure. I had hypothesised that could be the only way that oil could be present but did not imagine for a second that any manufacturer would be that daft, on the camshaft pulley with the oil pressure powered actuator mechanism I can understand the problem.

Correct although they often ask for one, patience is the key, something I am lacking in I ended up with it locking me out after trying all the codes that had been written on the manual by the PO. The next day it sorted itself out on its own!

Yours will probably have a description completely different and unrelated knowing VCDS, there is a search function, try using "offset" as the search term.

Thats why I made the request, every day is a learning day, I look forward to reading the TSB to get the info from the horses mouth. I had the same reaction initially to leaking camshaft pulley bolts but then learned what was going on with them, far too many disadvantages of most of the modern complications with very few if any benefits to the owner driver.

I wasn't aware but as that was even more relevant to diesels my reply is worthwhile.

Both, the latter with a degree of urgency, diesel diluted engine oil is a poor lubricant aside from on scaffold clamps! Essential in my view, leaving diesel diluted oil in the sump is not desirable. It was not a problem on VAG diesels pre the "fix" to the emissions software, all the other manufacturers were suffering but not VAG, funny that!!! My mileage is now low after being high for several years, nearly all short journeys but with the emissions fix rolled back and the EGR disabled the engine is running just fine, I heard the fans running on shutdown 2 nights ago, the first time in a couple of years.

They or you? I cannot imagine any scenario where engine oil could leak from flywheel bolts. Its bad form to be advising a stranger to remove their engine to loctite the flywheel bolts based on a figment of your imagination.

An engine support beam (for replacing mountings, removing gearbox etc) is also sometimes called un berceau. Please explain the context in which they used berceau, I cannot see any reason why they would need to remove the engine to find a broken part. Maybe they think it is in the sump and need to remove the crossmember to remove the sump?

I had not realised you meant Autoglass warranty team, reading it again it makes sense. What does not make sense is them replacing your accident damaged windscreen, I would have simply refunded what you paid for the repair. Or was it an insurance job? - Now a double insurance job!

The newest Yeti will be 8 years old, the majority probably have over 100K, less than half way run in. Less than £6k for a sub 100k mile 4x4 variant? That may once have been a reasonable proposition but certainly not now, mine cost £3200 with 80K miles and was 3 years old, one advertised on here a couple of days ago for £13K 😲

All will be revealed in the document that you signed without reading. If the clause is there, if it is legal, if it is enforceable getting the money from you is another matter.

Do you even know what engine the OP has to give such advice? I've been working on engines for over 50 years and have yet to come across one that has an oil gallery drilled through to the flywheel mounting flange which is outside of the rear main bearing seal. What I am saying is there is no oil behind the flywheel bolts to leak past them, please correct me if I am ignorant of something. If the OP is certain that the oil is engine oil then it must be leaking from the crankshaft rear oil seal.

Charge the battery via the accessory socket then unlock the doors using the remote. The key should have opened the drivers door, I can't explain why it didn't but whats important to you is to get them both open. You can actually open the bonnet without opening the door beside the release lever, it takes a lot of bending though and I would charge the battery if I had the time to avoid the possibility of breaking it although many have opened it that way without breakage.

What can anyone say? You dont know what part of the injector or perhaps an ancillary part has fallen. To me it can only have fallen into the combustion chamber or fallen outside of the engine, maybe lodged behind another component or on the undertray. Thats based on their location on my engine which may well be different. Maybe others will explain to me that the injectors are under or pass through the cam cover on your engine Could it be the O ring seal that became dislodged and fell? Berceau is cradle or birthplace, I would need to know the context in which the word was used.

There is an adaption procedure in VCDS to calibrate it, or perhaps that should be re-calibrate, it alters a parameter called DPF sensor offset.

Engine would not run if it were blown. It does nothing that isn't done whenever the keys are removed from the ignition but there will always be those that swear by it. It will certainly not remove fault codes, you would not want to remove valuable diagnostic information and in any case removing a fault code does not remove a fault, it just makes it harder to find. Your problem would appear to be intermittent comms between the canbus modules and the gateway controller, definitely check all live feeds and earths to the controllers, the problem is likely to be with one of those with a high current requirement, engine ECU, power steering, whatever controls the glowplugs, ABS modules frequently cause problems. When you are faced with something like this then the cost of VCDS becomes a very good value investment.

Does such an animal exist? Things I would do with an EGR: Prevent it from operating and ultimately very expensive failure by fitting an EGR emulator/simuator Clean all the clag build up from EGR flow in the throttle body and inlet tract for greatly improved throttle response, driveability, power and economy. Things I would not do with EGR: Clean a non existant (in my opinion) filter or do anything to facilitate the passage of EGR gases, hence the fitting of the emulator/simulator.

Of course you and I were paragons of sociablity when we were yoofs! 😁 They wind me up because they make me feel a hypocrit It's a good job that I didn't know how close some of them would have been to lamping me!

The engine is slow to drop revs due to inertia and also for emissions reduction, you could fit a lighter flywheel and probably find no difference other than the myriad other negatives that it will bring. Most people who modify engines and fit lightened flywheels are concerned with the throttle response, how quickly the engine will pick up revs for heel and toe downshifting and in their imagination miniscule gains in acceleration.