J.R.

There is no law that states you must tell your insurance company that someone has paid you compensation for damaging your vehicle or that you have modified it. Please correct me if I am wrong, in as few words as you can.

The battery used to be a non commercialised size, with a bit of bodging a smaller capacity one could be fitted, the case somes apart with patience, ultrasonic welded no different to any other throw away article that needs to be water tight, throw away meaning designed for production not designed to be dismantled for repairing.

I had assumed (more fool me usually!) that the cosmetic damage to the other vehicle was fire or heat damage, given the Polices desire to view the CCTV footage you could be right, perhaps when they ran a check of the vehicles owner it set off alarm bells?

I was wondering whether someone had some evidence or information suggesting arson or vandalism. Ask the question!

@Graham Butcher You will probably find this interesting. I would be wary of taking as gospel the advice from the expert towards the end, never trust a man who does not know where to place a shelf support 😁 This guys Youtube videos are quite watchable if you are into classic Italian road cars.

Its implausible that an insurance company would take on a motor manufacturer to make them responsable for a random fire on a 14 year old vehicle bearing their name. You should ask the question and see how they react.

Worthwhile for the cost of the belt, I would turn the engine carefully forward to 180° ATDC stopping if I felt any resistance, if that went well then I would buy and fit a belt, then turn the engine over by hand, if that felt OK do a compression test, if all good then I would know the engine will start and run unless I had made a Horlicks of the cam timing.

That is very poor advice for an engine with a known or suspected broken timing belt. I see the OP has already picked up on this.

Yes I understood there was not a 3rd party, people on the end of a phone probably working from home can spout no end of falsehoods and will usually backtrack when challenged, why dont you ask them who the 3rd party is and whether they have responded, what the deadline is for a decision regarding your excess being refunded?

Third party usually refers to the other person(s) involved in the accident, I have never pondered why, perhaps its "insured" "insurer" and "3rd party"? So did the insurer say that they had initiated a dispute against the manufacturer?

Having a bit of fun with you making up a story rather than saying the true "No!"

Failure at idle will be likely be bent valves alone, if any broke then its probably more severe.

Someone is winding you up I reckon.

It will likely be a tri-square fastener and not Torx. Take a close photograph of the head recess, zoom in and compare it to the images on Google showing the differences.

I've somehow lost my elliptical shaped one, it was the best, simpler and took up less room than the speader type I have now although its size was probably how I lost it.

It's a pleasure, it's the raison d'être of this forum.

Be carefull, on lots of our vehicles the front track is not the same as the rear track but looking at your sketch the measurements are in front of and behind the rear wheels so all good

Glad to have helped, I cant visualise the rear suspension pick up points and how the lower arm might affect toe and its too cold to go out and look but it makes sense given the work you have done and my brown trouser moments on the track driving vehicles that when I later checked had toe out on the IRS. If you can visualise a birds eye view of the wheels with one rear toeing out and the vehicle crabbing to drive in a straight line, then visualise what would happen with a slight steering input in the other direction it will get your bum clenching again!!!!!

I'm not sure, I'm relying on my not so good memory, the Octavia 2 and the facelift Yeti have the same unit under the RHF wing but they are the same platform, touch wood the one on the Yeti is still functioning, no PCB battery leakage yet.

He has disconnected the alarm control module which is located under the RHS front wheelarch, this I believe includes the sounder but it could be there is a seperate one. However the hazard warning lights operating when driving does question the above. I think there might be a seperate problem with the body control module as the alarm system should not be operative when driving and certainly not when it has been disconnected, this problem may have caused the BCM to wake up during its slumber which could/would/may have caused enough volt drop to trigger the alarm. If you resolve the additional problem you may find that the alarm control module works fine again. Are there any other electrical gremlins?

Is it not an adaption that should be done using VCDS routinely when a turbo actuator is replaced? That info is certainly available.

No issue, I was simply trying to understand what relevant information you were trying to convey with the abbreviation in the thread title.

I was making the point about the modules having to be awake to monitor the inputs/events/activity that creates the audible warnings plus all the systems that could still be operated by the occupant. You cant have smart vehicles making all the decisions for you (example you are sitting in the car when its shunted from behind and rolls down an embankment, should the airbags deploy or not?) if the decision making devices and the neural network connecting them is not operational and drawing current.

The bit about the car usually screaming at him for various reasons illustrates very well just how many Canbus modules have to remain active until after the occupants have left the vehicle and locked it.

Yes I seemed to recalll some kind of security measure but may have been confusing myself with the cage and shearbolts on the main ECU. I agree, just disconnect.