J.R.

Never ever attempt to use a glass cutter on tempered glass, it will shatter. As for just lifting the glass out, well maybe with a vacuum cleaner if you havn't blinded yourself when the glass shattered. I can tell that you have never cut glass in your life. Safest way is to use a self adhesive film to hold the pieces together when you break it. Yes a flawed theory, they are motorised gear driven deadlocks, when they are locked they are locked, removal of the power changes nothing, they require power to lock and power to unlock.

Touché! You are to blame with your 3 organ pipes comment! How can a 4 cylinder engine have a 3 organ pipe intake tract?

I don't think anyone is questioning that your gearbox is faulty but in the absence of an extended warranty the repair cost is your responsability. What is the relevance of them servicing the vehicle? FWIW you are being dragged down the usual path by the main dealer network, quote you a stupid price for the repairs and then offer a 50% contribution, you would be much better off taking the car to a transmission specialist. If they have already dismantled the vehicle or are claiming that they have then they have you by the ghoulies and to add insult to injury you will have paid them £250 to do so.

Check all the engine mountings especially the one removed to replace the cam belt, also check that the lower engine torque reaction "dogbone" void bushes have not been replaced with a solid or polyurethane version. 3 cylinder engines always sound growly on cam, rather like a highly tuned V6, this is usually reflected noise in the intake tract, you would not normally hear it through a standard exhaust with a turbo,catastrophic convertor,particulate filter etc. Is the acoustic engine cover perhaps missing?

Arrogance like that is not the way to elicit responses or aid from the experienced and helpfull forum contributors. But as an owner of a sh1tty bog standard version vehicle I doubt you will heed my advice.

He didn't say that it was Mr Grumpy, nor was he asked for an engine code, he responded accurately and concisely with the information requested of him - "please tell us which engine your car has"

Yes, No.

I fitted a £30 Ebay condensor and a similar priced crashbar, both imported pattern parts, my vehicle had had a minor front end shunt. The crashbar was missing the hole for the temperature sensor, no biggy, the condensor worked fine, I vacuumed down & repressurised the system myself (had invested in the kit and R134a cylinder) 3 years and 45k miles later its still working fine.

Wisdom 😄 All the money in the world would not have brought me any when I was doing similar things to my cars when young!

Every chance, the connector is a pig to remove and refit and breaks easily, mine is tywrapped together. I paid £114 for a genuine VAG cylinder from TPS, then bu66ered that one up and fitted a couple of dirt cheap pattern parts at €18 each delivered, all had the reed switches integrated and all of them worked correctly.

The last time they mixed the holes up. Drain and refill the diff oil, if my hypothesis is correct only a few drips of blackened and carbonised oil will come out, refill with fresh oil and you might just have dodged a bullet like I did. If the correct volume of clean as new oil comes out then they did the job correctly, your time will not have been wasted doing the oil change and you can then look at possibly changing the Guibo coupling harmonic balancer. I have been getting some diff noise but now quite suddenly a singing type screech has appeared at around 110kph, I have a new coupling to fit and hope that will resolve it. If the last Hladex service was quite recent you should investigate the diff oil without delay, dry diffs usually fail catastrophically very quickly, I was very fortunate to have done 200 miles and get away with a noisier but still functioning differential. As for the additives...............🤣🤣🤣

You are not going to be able to open a deadlocked door without a key recognised by the immobiliser, forget all the fantasies of putting 12v across a pair of wires in the door loop or using the unlock button, I have locked myself in my vehicle so have the T shirt! Its silly to be suggesting cutting a hole in the outside doorskin when the OP could do what I suggested earlier, break the cheapest window, squeeze inside, remove the door card and cut a hole in the door lock worm drive to release the deadlock, all this is documented elsewhere on the forum. But having half destroyed the car doing that what would it actually achieve for the OP? He could then open the bonnet which can also be done without damage with some determination now the grille & bumper are off but nothing else, no starting the vehicle to see if there is any engine damage. It sounds like the OP is resigned to getting the correct keys and coding done by VAG, it means a wait but any key cloning service are going to be able to do anything without a valid chipped key that will release the ignition barrel and I doubt any locksmith will be able to either, most are just smash & grab merchants who fit new lock & ignition barrels.

If I have understood your numbers you bought a 2019 vehicle from the dealer in October or November2019, I presume a 3 month old vehicle with less than 10K on the clock usual Bravo Sugar ex demonstrator, Sales Managers car blah blah blah etc. You have since had it serviced by them. What warranty did you recieve from them when you purchased? On what basis do you believe that the selling dealer and not you should be responsable for the cost of repairing a fault on your vehicle if it is no longer covered under the warranty from when you purchased it?

Yes I do and I have already told you where they should be! I will give you a clue, does air rise or sink within a liquid?

Clamp off the flexible hoses to the front calipers and see if the pedal improves, if it does then the air is within the calipers. You may have joined the countless others who have fitted the calipers on the wrong sides & learned the hard way why the bleed nipples should be at the top and not the bottom! 💡 I have a close friend of some 40 years now who I first met when a mutual friend asked me to have a look to see why he and his friend (now my friend) could not bleed the brakes after refitting the calipers. I have a photo I took in Venuzuela of a piper aircraft that was taking me an others to Canaima camp for an onward trek to Angel falls, that too had the calipers swapped side to side with the bleed nipples at the bottom and no surprise the brakes did not work.

Because a £30 code reader will only give you generic OBDII codes relating to emissions or safety related items, ABS, Airbags etc, it will not be able to interrogate the HVAC controller and in any case the volt drops across the individual resistors in the array are not monitored so there would be no fault code to find even if it could access the controller.

That was really really interesting from both a business and car repairer viewpoint. Not sure if you picked up on it amongst all the figures given but they aim to process 300000 vehicles a year with 3 million parts sold which equates to only 10 parts per vehicle, I'm sure the latter will increase significantly.

Nothing wrong with replacing the air filter more frequently or changing the brake fluid when it has not absorbed any H2O but if you are paying a garage to do it then you might need to reflect. Service intervals seem to be all about maximising the revenue for the dealers whilst minimising what they actually do and charging for the maximum of parts often not fitted.

Since approx 1995 so 28 years or more all vehicles have to be able to run without any servicing including oil changes, air filter, spark plugs etc for 100000kms = 62000 miles and still remain within their emissions limits and at Lambda 1.0. It triggered the use of 3D mapped electronic ignition, long life oils, crankshaft driven oil pumps, larger oil filters and especially larger air filters. The emissions limits have tightened considerably since then with EU3, 4, 5 and EU6 and the 100000kms has probably also been extended, the surface area of VAG (and all other makes) air filters has increased massively during the 3 decades and also the intake ducting picks up cooler cleaner air and has chambers for leaves, water etc to drop out, the lower part of the air filter housing is also designed for leaves etc to drop away from the filter element. I ran my MK1 Octavia to 225000 miles on the original air filter with no more than a shake out and dusting with a soft brush every couple of years, it was never restrictive and I always watched the fuel economy obsessively, I eventually replaced the filter because it was falling apart! Pollen filters are a different matter and need to be frequently replaced, dusting off and brushing helps a little but the airflow from the fan is severely reduced, on the MK1 it was a difficult job to replace and the main dealer servicing it had prior to my ownership never once replaced it despite it being charged for several times.

You remember that new head unit you fitted recently.............................!

Please note that any correlation between these figures and the truth is purely coincidental. It is not a measured value but a calculated one based on milligrams per km or 100kms, you can even alter the parameter in VCDS so that it rises more slowly, also you can tell the ECU through VCDS that a new DPF has been fitted and it will reset the oil ash figure to zero, I did this on mine, even the measured values should be regarded with scepticism unless you regularly do an adaptation of the DPF differential pressure sensor, each time I do mine the offset correction value alters. Measured or calculated? With the EU5 emissions fix software it triggers on calculated and they altered the value of the constant making the calculated value rise much quicker which is the reason for the regens at 100 miles, maybe on your EU6 engine they have sorted things out. A vehicle never able to complete a regen and which initiates one on start up before the water and oil temperature are at the required threshold is one that has serious problems and will be wearing the bores and diluting the engine oil, either the DPF is clogged with oil ash which cannot be removed during a regen or there is a problem with the DPF sensore and the ECU thinks it is clogged. Its time to look up from your phones and the DPF app and take in what is happening in the real world with all the senses that god gave you including that of reasoning.

Whilst passive regens will undoubtedly burn off soot unfortunately the emissions fix software does not take them into account at all and will still regen as often as it is based on calculated rather then measured values. If you use VCDS you will see the measured soot loading (calculated from the DPF differential pressure sensor) drop but the calculated will continue to rise and it will regen when its kidded itself there is 22G of soot or whatever the threshold is even though the measured value might be 3g in my case. I have set off on a 1000km motorway and autoruote journey towing a barn door fronted trailer loaded to 3 tonne, it was pretty much wide open throttle most of the time and 100% on any incline, you could not get better passive regeneration conditions yet the poxy thing did 4 active regenerations during the journey and when I arrived at my destination the fans were running interrupting a 5th, VCDS showed 2g of measured soot. All my journeys that week were a little less than 20kms but it was winter so cold starts, every journey was a started and failed regen, the car was trying to regen every time I drove it. That was the final straw, I paid to have the emissions fix rolled back and since then I have been aware of only one active regen when I stopped, it never reaches the threshold as I have an EGR emulator/simulator and the software now accounts for the passive regens, it does a default regen every 1000 kms I believe.

Drivers door loop.

Wont cut any ice in France, only the combinations that appear on the CoC for that particular vehicle can be fitted. And then you have CT testers that say your tyres are wrong because it does not come up on their computer despite them actually being a homologated fitment. Then you have CT testers and tyre fitters saying any of the ones shown on the fuel filler flap is fine when that absolutely isn't so especially for the Greenline. Then you will have tyre fitters saying a size is OK because the manufacturer (which manufacturer? The happygoluckysunnyshinekungfueychinesetyre corporation?) says it is an alternative fitment. Then you have the insurance agents (it wont be the insurer) throwing in their Bravo Sugar, ditto the so called legal experts (who will be anything but) for the legal protection insurance. Even VAG France say one size only without backing it up with a copy of the certificate of conformity which is the definitive document. You wont be surprised to learn that I don't take a blind bit of notice of any of the above which always comes with a dire warning, I just get on and do my thing, I fit my own tyres so as not to be shafted for a pair of tyres when one has a puncture because eet eex zee loi! which it isn't, my CT tester is a friend of 18 years and will tell me what I need to do for him to not see any of these non conformities. That said it seems like PhilEyre is fed up with the 1.6 engine anyway so wont mind changing, he wont get any compo though, just a long dragged out process while everyone fills their boots.

I would think it is deadlocked anyway so even with a charged battery releasing the inside door handle wont do anything. I think you will probably have to take the Skoda route for the keys, I cant recall if there is any programming to do when you recieve the keys but the old ones will have been disabled, although thinking about it that would have to be done at the vehicle. The cheaper cloning can only be done if you have a working key. If you break the cheapest window glass and get inside the vehicle you can normally remove the door trim enough to get to the motorised lock mechanism and by cutting a hole in the right place you can rotate the worm drive pinion to release the deadlock, at least you cound do that on earlier cars.