J.R.

And assuming you were doing it vigourously I bet your average heart rate was double the whole time what Shy believes his MHR was. . My Garmin watch is calibrated to go into alarm if my heart rate while exercising drops below 97bpm or goes above 160. He has either misread the figures or the HRM is completely foutu, in any case the numbers cannot possibly stack up WRT heart rate, duration and calories expended but he cannot entertain the thought.

Who would have thought that taking a holiday would result in a bicycle that goes nowhere replacing an obsession with BHP and fuel economy? How many MPG does 68 bpm MHR equate to?

You can buy the plain pop on type retaining studs for peanuts on Ali-Express, they simply screw into the carpet which sounds violent but isn't. If unsure about compatibility then buy both parts, the eyelet for the mat and the stud for the carpet.

Dependant on the Shy ones height and weight 68bpm maximum maintained for 2 hours would equate to around 225 calories and not 1050. He would consume more lying on the settee watching the Tour de France and pressing the remote control button

Maybe he is over 152 years old George, either that or he dreamed his pretend cycling session. My theoretical 100% heart rate is 159 bpm which I regularly exceed when running or cycling and can remain above for one hour in the right conditions, on the 400m track I have hit 200 briefly several times and 203 once but only a peak of 195 with the cardiologist beside me during an epreuve d'effort. My Garmin watch was proved to be fairly accurate on that day against the calibrated laboratory instruments but I only use it as a comparator to back up how I feel (listen to your body) a fellow runner older and far fitter than me has an identical watch & his HR is always much lower, when we swopped watches it jumped 25 and he set a 1km record on mine that I will never ever come close to!

Every vehicle has its weaker points, those which are known of in standard tune are far more likely to manifest with a higher level of tune, thats the risk you take and the price we often pay in the search for more power. Whilst I can understand the premature failure of many engine, transmission and driveline components when running higher than standard boost pressures what is it in the turbo itself that is put under strain and fails? I cant see it being the casing, impellors or even bearings, does it push out the oil seals perhaps? It has to be something quite definitive to fail within 200 miles. Editted, I read the postings which overlapped, a shaft problem, I will read further on the matter as I am intending a remap once I can travel again, how can I determine if my engine has this known weak turbo?

I think they deliberately only put 1 - 1.5 litres of fuel in them, not sure if its for security reasons but a main dealer around here was robbed by a pair of typically mentally challenged locals, they tried all the keyfobs hanging on the rack till they had the keys for the 2 new vehicles that they wanted. Both were found abandoned in nearby villages one 7km away, the other 12km away having run out of fuel.

Being able to order a takeaway should not play any part in the decision making process. Being able to charge an EV from every home including flats and those without off road parking is essential. I believe ultimately (not in my lifetime) that all motorways will have drive on roadtrain carriages, electric powered and with inductive charging from underneath the stationary vehicles, Eurotunnel could be the first to trial this. OR, and the physics will no doubt preclude this flight of fancy, when you drive on a main road or motorway your vehicle charges inductively from the road surface taking on more power than it expends. No more filling stations, no more charging stations, no more home charging but road tolls that include the cost of the energy consumed and stored.

Replacement parts will have a sleeve or flanged joint, you simply cut the old pipe off, if you are only replacing part of it then you make the cut in the scrap part & then cut to the right length for the sleeve joint. Most modern vehicles take their original exhausts to the grave with them, I have not seen a dedicated fast fit exhaust place for a couple of decades, at one time they were on every street corner.

I understand now. The title did not contain a question mark like your subsequent posting but that's not a problem, when reading the posting the title is not on the screen and the posting makes no sense even now I know what question you are asking. I hope Wino has given you the information that you need.

Thankyou in advance for what? You have not asked a question, your posting is gibberish & makes no sense to me, maybe others will understand.

For over 25 years now emissions standards have required that a vehicle should be able to cover a minimum of 100000 kms without any maintenance and still remain within the permitted emissions values. So yes, long life oils, long life sparkplugs & long life filters. Clearly the earlier you change the engine oil & filter the better it is for the engine, the earlier that spark plugs & air filters are changed make a measurable bit not significant difference, & then of course there are the engines that eat the plugs much sooner than that. Air filters have a much larger surface area than they used to. As someone who keeps an obsessive eye on fuel consumption and spends money wisely on my own servicing but not wastefully I have several times taken air filters well beyond 60K miles with zero ill effects, they do get removed and shaken out and blown through in the reverse direction at low pressure, I replace them when they look degraded or start to deteriorate or if the fuel economy fell but that has yet to happen. On my MK1 Octavia the diesel filter did over 225k miles mainly because everytime I bought one it turned out to be the wrong diameter or the unions were slightly different, I cut the old one open and it would have gone on to a million miles by the look of it, there is a very good filter on the fuel sender/pick up unit which would block long before the huge underbonnet one would & that never had any build up on it. Leave diesel in the tank too long or use fuel from a jerrycan that has been standing too long and it will have turned waxy, I now date my jerrycans and always filter the fuel before putting it in the tank.

That happened to me last year when I tripped at full pelt on a tarmacked section of the Somme Canal towpath, the roots of a tree had raised a trip hazard that I did not see with my compromised vision, I still cant believe that I pulled it off by chance and not instinctively because I have never done martial arts in my life nor that I ended up on my feet again and running, I think the velocity & momentum turning into inertia made that happen, the most dangerous part was remaining upright & continuing to run when my head did not have a clue even what planet I was on let alone what had happened. A very weird experience which could have turned out very badly & probably will the next time.

If both front wheels & not the rears then probably an ABS block problem.

Given their claims of superb engineering and safety being their first priority they shot themselves in the foot with the in car camera angle pointing straight at the exposed screw threads sticking out of the rear of the steering wheel boss. A couple of threads I would expect but if they cant be bothered to specify the right length of fastener on something so visible what faith can you have in the rest of the engineering? Things like that just shout out at me. But hey, its got a 3 year guarantee

The smell immediately flags up the problem to me, TBF you might not initially know but once you realise as with most smells the slightest whiff gets your attention.

Has the fuel sender been removed & refitted? My experience is with a diesel but its likely to be similar with a petrol, I dont know what engine the car in question has but the sender is the same and the fuel suction & return lines similar. If the pipes are connected the wrong way round the fuel pump has to work overtime sucking against the resistance that if correctly fitted would prevent the tank from being pressurised, this will manifest itself in several ways, a drop in performance (may not be noticable), a noticable decrease in fuel economy, air being drawn into the system and airlocks (a big problem on diesel but probably not on petrol) finally the whooshing sound when removing the fuel filler cap.

It sounds like something in the clutch pressure plate is acting like a James Watt governor and impeding the plate from re-engaging at high revs. That it's a non standard clutch makes it the primary suspect.

Feel the temperature of all the brake discs after a run, especially the rears.

You forgot to say that it must be set to "recirculate" for that to work.

Guff indeed, its been at least 15 years since VAG vehicles had an old school E/M clutch operated system but it will likely be another 15 years before the guff ceases. I find that leaving the A/C on results in steaming up when restarting the next morning because of the condensation present on the condensor when shut down remaining in the vehicle, it does not take long for the system to clear it but if its not used in the first place it does not happen, any misting will be due to the weather conditions, wet clothing etc. I had a vivid example of it once when returning on the Eurotunnel, I had driven 75 minutes to Folkestone, then maybe another 20 minutes around the terminal before embarquation, A/C was on & all windows clear as they were initially when I restarted after the 35 minute journey, the weather conditions at Calais were the same as at Folkestone but within 2 minutes on the rocade everything was so steamed up that even with vigourous wiping with the chamois the fan would immediately steam them up again, it was so bad that I had to stop.

They will have taken a feed from the fusebox or the battery as was the case on my MK2 but I would be very surprised to learn that they had picked up the trigger wiring for the trailer relay (L & R rear lights, L & R indicators, brake lights, foglamp) as none of them are anywhere near the fusebox, indeed many of them emenate from canbus modules close to the rear light clusters. Using the appropriate sensing relay puts no loading on the circuit and other than how well or badly they make the connection there is no possibility of causing a problem with the circuits, blowing fuses etc. I think most towbar fitting operations work on £3-400 minimum gross profit, there was a time when that was earned but other than being able to cut a square slot in a removable bumper insert there is little or no skill involved in a basic install, remove crashbeam & replace with towbar, connect relay to rear light feeds, boot power socket & the towing socket. For the more expensive all singing & dancing installs there will be the programming of the trailer module, central convenience & canbus gateway modules which will be beyond the scope of most DIY'ers unless they have VCDS. My neighbour like me had always fitted his own towbars, him for over 50 years, he was freaked out at the thought of the Canbus system on his Octavia F/L and scared by the horror stories related to him by the towbar fitters so he had it professionally fitted at great cost. At that time I did not have any working knowledge or understanding of canbus so thought he was doing the right thing, when he had problems caused by the bodger removing a section of insulation and connecting by twisting the wire core around it and covering in insulation tape and I redid the install correctly I was able to show him that all the magical "canbus" work was nothing more than connecting a relay no different other than price to the ones that he had always fitted.

The VAG ones are the most expensive but very long lasting, they are usually a twin pack of a base coat plus clear or maybe that it just for the metallic colours, the lid has a paint & rust scraper wire brush integrated. I bought one in 2005 for my MK1 Octavia, used it on my MK2 which was the same silver metallic & have now passed it on to my neighbour with a facelift Octavia same colour again, I have put a couple of drops of thinners into them during that time. For the Yeti I bought the cheapest on t'internet of those with a larger volume and one that came with a supply of the toothpick type touch up sticks.

Its a well demonstrated phenomenon that when people have been relieved of a lot of money and/or been made to jump through lots of hoops they take exception when others don't suffer in the same way. My Towbar was £105 on Ebay but the seller is no longer there, it is the same as this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tow-Trust-Fixed-Flange-Towbar-For-Skoda-Yeti-MPV-2009-2017-/133519749954?hash=item1f1665b342 I needed a fixed flange type so as I could fit a Nato type coupling or for my bike rack and other accessories I have fabricated over the years which use the bolt fixings.

Would I be happy what happens to 2 or 3 owners down the line from me? Not the sort of question I ask myself often. Do I get ****ed by what previous owners have done to my vehicles? - No, I buy them as seen and do whatever needs doing to suit my purposes, I buy older high mileage vehicles and run them into the ground, I have not sold a vehicle less than 10 years old for a couple of decades, anyone buying something of that age should have their eyes wide open as mine always are. Building work, structural not cosmetic, thats a different matter, it will quite literally be the roof over someones head for many generations after I have passed. Too many people these days look to blame others for the situation they put themselves in.