J.R.

That made me laugh!

Don't exaggerate, they are far worse than that, bull **** has some uses!

Neither would I because I am not psychic, having a good engineering knowledge and many years experience with vehicle drivetrains I could speculate but were I in the role of this person, who has in any case no such knowledge, it would be wrong for me to do so. The guy seems to be doing his job very well, in terms of promoting the (now de minimis) Skoda brand values 🤣 Like NVQ Kate he will probably be rewarded by promotion!

Thanks for that, for myself and for the OP.

The photo looked like a head gasket leak but hard to tell, I agree find all the other leaks, I would pressure test the cooling system, if that reveals no leaks then I would retorque the head retaining bolts, I know that you are not supposed to but if they were not done correctly in the first place............................... Someone may intervene to say that is wrong advice for a reason unknown to me, possibly liner related so wait a while as despite my instincts I would be double checking that what I proposed to do would not actually cause more problems

I wholeheartedly agree but many people go on a crusade to have white and not "horrible old fashioned yellow lights" (their words) regardless of whether they actually illuminate better in the case of headlight bulbs and then after complaining of fault codes find their "can bus compatible" bulbs are nothing but words (canbus and bulbs should never even be in the same sentence as they are nothing to do with each other) so they bodge in resistors into the wiring loom to draw the current that the incandescent bulb would but producing only heat and not light so actually more heat but in the wiring loom not the headlight probably bound up in insulating tape to hide them to overheat to their hearts content until something melts................... Meanwhile they complain that their headlights now steam up!!!!!!!!!!!!

Better to assume that they have supplied the lowest possible current rating of the particular resistor they could get away with, they start at 0.6 watt, prior to that 1/4 watt was the smallest.

BTW, you might think that it is working perfectly normally but it ain't, the problem will recur very quickly and get worse. Lifting the pedal up manually is actually the worse thing that you can do but unless you get out and bleed the system straight away you have no other choice but to draw more air in by doing so.

Concentric slave cylinder drawing in air through the O ring joint between the two plastic mouldings that make up the assembly. You are probably going to be sent on a parts bingo merry go round of changing the master cylinder, repeated return visits for bleeding, replacement of any other external parts like the flexible hose or bleed block and eventually a full clutch replacement, just make absolutely sure they do replace the slave cylinder instead of looking at it, deciding it isn't leaking (which it wont be) and leaving the old one but charging you for a phantom new one as happened to another contributor recently who is about to pay for the whole job to be done a second time.

To answer your question you repair the leaks - end of! You don't ponce around bodging with powders, liquids or OXO cubes, their place is for get you home breakdown repairs and they will do more harm than good if left in any length of time.

Glad you said non expert. The engine oil is the primary engine coolant, it takes combustion heat directly from the underside of the pistons, it also takes heat from all the bearing surfaces, all of this is heat that will therefore not need to be removed by the water cooling system. It is not cooled by the water circulating in the coolant channels in the engine block, it is cooled (and heated) by the water to oil heat exchanger part of the oil filter housing. The only reason that this heat exchanger can help raise the temperature of the oil from a cold start is the clever VAG water circulatory system during the warm up phase with the sliding sleeve water pump and auxiliary coolant pump(s) on a more basic engine the oil will get hot before and quicker than the coolant and those equipped with an oil cooler would also have a thermostat to prevent the coolant from cooling the hotter oil during the warm up. Nobody has yet mentioned that the water temperature guage will show a rock steady indicated 90°c for any temperature between 70°c and 110°c. My oil temperature regularly exceeds 120°c when I am towing, I would not expect it to do so cruising at the NSL during moderate temperatures. I would compare the maxidot indicated oil temperatures with a measured temperature using a probe down the dipstick tube, I would want to be sure that I could trust the indicated reading before doing anything else, I know for sure that I cannot trust the water temperature guage reading. It is indeed possible that the silkat crystals have partially blocked the radiator (they wont have blocked the engine water jacket) and that both the oil and water temperatures are too high as a consequence.

Not necessarily, its a half decent lubricant, sometimes I use it as flushing oil instead of 50/50 parafin and cheap thin motor oil. With the PCV system working correctly you will not see any increase in crankcase pressure, that happens when the combustion gases get past the rings in significant quantities, not much smaller volumes of unburnt fuel. On the positive side your old engine oil is already thinned for use as a fence preservative or bonfire starter!

Disconnect the battery from the vehicle and you will find that the charger will function correctly and as you expect with your battery.

It sure is!!! Had to fiddle with mine yet again before setting out on a 1000 mile towing round trip, 12v it certainly is both the power to the relay, the outputs and the sensing currents.

I believe the lacquer over the silver base powder coat will be paint sprayed, I am basing that on wheels that I had powder coated in the 80's so times may have changed but I believe the principle is the same. The reason that powder coating is unskilled compared to paint spraying is that the operator just has to wave the nozzle in the right areas, the metal object is electro-statically charged and the powder is an insulator, when the designed thickness of powder is built up any further does not stick and fall away, for this reason you cannot apply a second powder coat (the lacquer) over the first one. Or at least that was the case back then.

I'm not quite sure what the mistake is in never considering something that yours and other peoples lives may depend on, it's not like taking a wrong turning. The reason that I find it scary is that I am under no illusions and believe that the vast majority of todays motorists fall into that camp and that its myself who is the exception, the sheer volume of vehicles on the road with so few actually having regular safety & maintenance checks is what makes it scary rather than what individuals do.

OP stated that the system needs bleeding every 2 days hence it will have been bled multiple times. Also stated that both master & slave cylinder were replaced, it's easy to check visually that the master cylinder has been done so I reckon it has (but he should check anyway) if its a concentric slave cylinder then you cannot really check visually & hence why I suspect it was not actually changed, it my have been and could as you say have been faulty or developed the fault subsequently.

Once again scary Driving a car for 12 months without ever checking the tyres or even knowing what the correct pressure should be, and as for blaming the dealer 12 months henceforth, words fail me! Checking the tyre pressures and fluid levels would be the very first thing that I did on getting home with a new (to me) vehicle and something I always do after new tyres are fitted, never once have they been inflated to the correct pressure, never once in 45 years aside from the last couple where I have been doing my own tyre fitting.

Button at bottom of B post. Funnily enough my alarm has not gone off at all in the many recent times that I have slept in the car, I need to check its operation.

I have had dozens of alloy wheels powder coated going back to the mid 80's without ever a problem or a refusal, other than for a specific or lacquered finish I dont know any wheel refurbishers that are not powder coating as their standard finish. That said I dont know what the factory finish is, at the minimum its a 2 pack epoxy oven cured spray finish, probably powder coated.

That still has not answered my question as the gearbox was removed to replace the clutch but as we are not getting any further forward to identifying whether your vehicle has a concentric (internal) clutch slave cylinder I will proceed on the assumption that it does but you really should know this for sure before confronting the garage that did the work. In which case the problem is an air leak into the system at the O ring joint joining the two halves of the concentric slave cylinder, I doubt that you will be able to prove it but they most certainly will not have replaced it to gain them some money and a little time judging it to be good for future service as there were no fluid leaks, air is drawn in but fluid does not leak out. There is a slight possibility that air may be being drawn in past one of the 2 'O' ring joints on the clutch bleed block AKA Clutch Torque limiter, as these are external and easy to access they should be replaced to rule out the possibility. If the problem remains and I am fairly sure that it will then the only solution is to remove the gearbox to replace the concentric slave cylinder, whoever does the job will be sceptical and with good reason because it will appear to be in good working condition with no leaks but I am 100% certain that it will be the later 2 piece plastic bodied type, it will only be the joining 'O' ring that needs replacing but would be false economy not to replace the whole thing after incurring all the labour charges for a second time.

Concentric slave cylinder? Please confirm That means internal to the bellhousing, gearbox has to be removed to replace, the external type is visible and will act on a pivot arm that protrudes from the bellhousing. Usually fitted to the 6 speed boxes but not limited to them I believe.

Concentric slave cylinder? - Do you know for sure that it was really replaced? I'll wait for your answer before explaining further, suffice to say been there, done that, got the T shirt. I was having to bleed the clutch every 3 miles on urban journeys.

That sounds about right, if a byte is ticked to say that the vehicle has a certain option or module installed then the can gateway will be trying to communicate with it and every scan for fault codes on the installation list will bring up an error code of failure to communicate. No doubt this module if it were fitted would play a part in the decision logic of whether to respond to a command for rear washer operation.

You were (and still are) the person telling people what they need to do, I was simply pointing out that the OP had chosen to drive in 6th gear at 1600 rpm