J.R.

As my old phone is 2004 slightly older than the 2007 one which I use (both bulletproof Nokia dumbphones) that would not work for me but I have a question, would the "old phone" not need to have a simcard and contract or PAYG to work or will the shatnav work without a network or data connection?

I am 100% with you there Bogart, the solution for me was a cheap Chinese head unit with shatnav, the only downside for most is an upside for me in that it will not work with the standard Skoda Bluetooth module, it has its own shonky one built in but as I only carry a dumbphone and do not want to be making or recieving calls when driving it does everything I could want.

If the word "would" were substituted for "should" in your posting I don't think Xman would (should😆) have commented.

Adjust the linkage cables then.

Physically will not go in or goes in with resistance and/or a crunch? For the former then reset the linkage cables, its a very easy procedure, plenty of Youtube videos to show you how.

Hear-hear!

Wrong pads fitted.

Air is being drawn in via the O ring that joins the two plastic moulded sections of the concentric slave cylinder, gearbox out job. Cost of parts 1 pence but most of us would replace the cylinder, clutch and DMF at the same time. Now I know you havn't said whether you have a concentric slave cylinder or an external one but I am right aren't I!!!! Bleeding will gain you some reprieve but it will get worse and worse, I was having to bleed mine every few miles unless I was on a motorway and not changing gears. These vehicles dont need pressure bleeding on the clutch, just simply attach a clear vertical tube to the bleed thumbturn and open it 180° the air will come straight out with a tiny bit of fluid, its sits there in a pocket designed for that very reason, it is coming in downstream and downhill of it and does not rise any further up the system, pumping or pressure bleeding is more likely to dislodge the air and push it into the cylinder

But there favorite place is the tray beside the tyre demounting rig where you will find a vast selection of locking wheel adaptors, centre caps & bolt caps. In fact it you go into any tyre place you will find several and might get lucky and find one that fits your wheel bolts, there are not that many combinations, otherwise take a photo of the wheel bolt internal pattern & look on t'internet to find which part number corresponds and then search on Ebay or go to a dealer and get reamed.

Hear-hear! 👍

Missed out? I would be thanking my lucky stars that I dodged a bullet. Now if the system prevented a driver from driving either forward or reverse whilst talking on the phone or playing with the infotainment screen that would be desirable but as all of the once safe, tactile & ergonomic controls have now been put on the screen that isn't going to happen.

Yeah! Make it have it! Show it who is the boss!

That thought had occurred to me also, not sure about the Roomster but on other models the drivers door window motor and the rear wiper motor are both canbus nodes, it could be if the can gateway does not get a sign off handshake signal from one of them that it does not shut down, thats exactly what happens with the aftermarket radios. I'm probably way out on my speculation of why a fractured door bellows cable causes havoc but its well known that they do so definitely something to check.

You need either a chicken or small dog in the box for the system to react, don't try it with a rabbit as that would be cruel.

You have not answered how long you take the current measurement for, "all the time" is not helpfull for the reason the question was asked. These cars always create a big spark when the battery is first connected, that is normal, when you take the current measurement you must have all the doors and bonnet closed or the latches closed onto a screwdriver or similar to fool the car that everything is locked, the current should drop after 20 minutes, people say 3 hours, its been written so many times that it has been believed but its actually 10 minutes, 20 maximum. A diode could have failed in the alternator rectifier which would give a current draw like the one you are seeing whilst still charging at 14.4v, you should try disconnecting the alternator & see if the discharge stops, do the same with the alarm, the internal back up batteries fail & leak acid onto the PCB and can drain current. What radio does the vehicle have? Is it an aftermarket one & was it fitted recently? They can cause battery drain problems via the Canbus Gateway. Has any other work been done recently on the car, any electrical parts replaced?

An old school drain plug wrench has tapered male hexagons and can be hammered and rotated at the same time, the hex socket probably does not have parallel sides so old school may win over on this one, failing that a chisel.

The behaviour of the high level brake light as you described it is suspect. Within VCDS you can cycle the brake lights using the output tests, this is sending a command to the BCM/CCM/whateveristcalledtoday to apply voltage to the bulbs & high level LED, this will test if the module does what it should if it gets the right input from the brake cylinder switch. Pay attention to the operation of the high level light, I don't understand how it could screw things up but there have been reports that it does. You could also try disconnecting it.

Are you a member?

Are you sure that there is not a second brake switch on the pedal as well, often the engine management and cruise control use a seperate switch, if the one on the master cylinder has only 2 wires = 1 pair of contacts I would bet there is an additional switch. To rule out the master cylinder reed switch and possibly a sticking magnet on the piston assembly disconnect it and see what happens, the contacts should be open circuit, also when its in position until the brake pedal is pressed. Some have reported that a problem with the high level rear LED brake light has caused similar issues, are all the LEDs working correctly on yours? The last port of call is the Body Control Module, might be called Comfort Control Module or Central Electric Module on your car. Have a VCDS scan done if you can, if its a switch it will bring up an implausible signal error code, if its the module it may say something like incorrectly coded or communication error.

Is your rear washer working? If not then that might give you a clue!

Why have it picked up by the AA (not that they do that), the OP drove it there and he can drive it away, his old MOT is still valid and the failure was not marked as dangerous.

There would be 72000 headstones like that and how could they decide what cemetaries to put them in? The monument is the size that it is (10 million bricks and 45m high) to be able to have the engravings of the name & regiment etc of all of the 72000 honoured there, as you will know the engraving is not large.

Picardie ( is the region which includes the départements of L'Aisne, L'Oise and La Somme and covers 20000 square kilometers, the english spelling is Picardy but I did not use that spelling in my profile so that is why I was surprised that you appeared to know where I live, your direction was almost spot on and the route on the map you have shown from Picardy actually goes through my village!!!! The Thiepval memorial is for all the fallen soldiers whose remains were either never found or identified, behind the memorial there is a small cemetary containing war graves of Commonwealth and French soldiers but those were those who died close by during the battles, they were identified & buried there during the war and before the monument was constructed after the war. Remains are still being found today and they actually have more chance now of being identified than they ever did, I have been to a few of the funerals at the 2 Commonwealth cemetaries in my village, its upsetting to see that their remains fit in a casket the size of a shoebox. So it is possible for someone to be listed on the memorial as one of the missing yet later on to have been found & buried and have a gravestone, you will find loads of information on the CWGC website, his regiment and where he was listed as killed in action most probably. There are probably some errors in the above, a WW1 enthusiast would know the exact details. Sorry for the thread drift.

Have done several on Octavias, never paid more than £30 each, add on another £3 for the foam bump stop which is usually decomposed, 15 minutes a side for me to fit on a good day. £627 presumably is for just one, sounds about right for a main stealer. Your mistake was having an MOT done by someone with a very vested interest (AKA robbing lying barstewards), no MOT station would have told you that unless it had been flagged as such on the failure certificate. If the car was under warranty and you had it MOT'd elsewhere & it had failed on leaking shock absorbers the main stealer would have called it "slight misting" and said it was completely normal. I would ask to see the MOT failure certificate and inspect the dampers visually myself, if I had any doubt I would get a second opinion from an MOT test station that did not have a vested interest, one that only does tests & not repairs.

Do they make them as a 4x4? If so then it would be the ideal for my use over the next few years. A remap absolutely transformed by 108hp Yeti, supposedly 184hp, I reckon its the standard 170 VAG map. I cant believe that the same engine without a different turbo, exhaust, injectors etc could produce so much more torque & power.