J.R.

Having removed the front wing on mine to panelbeat it I recognise the part, I'm pretty sure that it is number 37 on the diagram and not handed, the wing has to be removed to fit a new one as the bulk of the part you see illustrated (badly) is underneath and supports the wing. You can see the remains of it under the wing where it has been torn off.

No.

Do you mean that they made the new instrument binnacle show a mileage value less than the true 312K miles? I dont ask the question to moralise but the ECU also has a record of the mileage (it can be consulted via VCDS) and perhaps the error code is because the reading on the instrument binnacle does not match? I did the opposite, I fitted a remapped ECU that had come from a donor vehicle, my odometer reading remained as it had always been, there were no error codes but if I did a mileage check using VCDS it showed the ECU as having done a much higher mileage than the odometer. I gave the old ECU with the standard map to the new owner and explained the mismatch.

I think everyone has answered your question regarding the spare wheel. Mine is a 4x4 which I don't think has the indent for a full size or maybe any spare wheel. I also carry tons of essential tools, spares, survival gear etc under a variofloor (recycled from a MK1 Octavia) which had to be reduced by 1/3rd from what was carried in my Octavias, had i put my spacesaver under the variofloor it would have taken up all the space except for 4 little corners. So I have to travel without a spare & only carry it on long journeys which is exactly when I need the space it takes up. If you have a non 4x4 and dont have a penchant for carrying loads of toot like I do then you will be absolutey fine, you will lose a small amount of height for carrying bike for example but will gain a flat loading space without a lip.

It was not while sitting stationary, it was the first average MPG reading after travelling 200m but critically after the engine had been running at idle for say 5 minutes, what I wanted to get across was that the average MPG shown during or at the end of a journey includes the fuel that is burnt when idling at standstill at traffic lights etc etc. The instantaneous MPG reading while idling at a standstill will be - - - -

I would say that it would fulfill your needs and feel very familiar. I have come from 2 Octavia Combis and the only thing the Yeti lacks for me is volume and useable cargo space but then it is shorter and easier to get in tight spaces, the Flex seating is very good and makes the most of what there is, the lack of a spare wheel space on the 4x4 under the variofloor is a real loss, I take a space saver on long journeys but others will tell you it is not legal as it was not homologated, that alone takes up most of the luggage space and a full size one would be even worse, I reckon one rear seat would have to be inclined to fit it in. The above was quite visible and known to me when i made the choice and I have no regrets, its a cracking package overall just not suited to my next few years renovating a property.

No cat on a diesel, the game of the instantaneous fuel consumption is a good one but I use the average one and see how it climbs, mine updates every 200m my usual direction is slightly uphill, the first MPG shown 200m after a cold start is usually 28-32mpg, if I drive through my village at 50kph ignoring the 30kph limit for most of it I will bejust shy of 50mpg after 1.5 miles, then on to a Route departemental to my pals village, another 2.5km initially uphill & then downhill, if I'm driving carefully I will hit 58mpg. All that is a little false as its low speed, no traffic and far better than my overall average but it does not reduce even in the coldest weather bearing out my statement that diesels (DPF aside) are far more economical on short cold start journeys where a petrol engine would be running enrichment. If I drive into town or say to Lidl using the rocade (bypass) both a 5km journey then stop for 30 minutes then return amongst traffic I will get my overall average of 47mpg, the 2WD Octavias were much better. I have not driven a petrol engined car with a fuel computer in decades but I reckon if I had say a 1.5TSi with a DSG box on my local journeys in winter I reckon I would get a real shock. As an aside if i leave the engine running while deicing and defrosting the windows before setting off when I get to the 200m mark the average MPG will be about 13mpg, less than half the usual, its nice to know that the fuel consumed when idling at standstill is actually accounted for.

Unlikely the straps will clear the brake calipers, they are fine if you simply want to put them on wheels removed from the car for photographs!!! There is a reason why snowchains etc never fit in that manner. They would probably work on the rear wheels of my Yeti as I have the smaller brakes all round, I have my doubts about the front, I will have a look later as I have everything needed to DIY a set, I had some webbing made into sleeves many years back for protecting the edge of plasterboard while I was winching it up from a DIY'ed overhead crane on my renovation.

By applying a turning moment to the rim using primarily the upper arm and shoulder muscles. But that will be tomorrow, today in the UK I was doing exactly the same.

The problem will be the internal Ni-cad battery inside the alarm module, disconnect the module as soon as you can & then decide whether to fit a replacement. It is located under the RH front wheelarch behind the liner panel, it has a metal security cage but you will be able to either drill out the rivets or bend it out of the way to remove the unit or disconnect it.

Low resistance would be a short, what does the guage read and what does it read if you disconnect the connectors from both sender units? I am assuming that you have the 4x4 saddle tank with twin sender units as you spoke in the plural. VCDS will give you the resistance or litre reading from each sender.

Now adjust the position of the drivers mirror while looking at the passenger one. Then you will understand why you always seem to have to keep adjusting the passenger mirror after having done the drivers one, unless you are a Chameleon that is in which case you will already know! How stupid did I feel when I finally found out after probably 10 years 😳 I mean who looks at the passenger mirror when adjusting the drivers one! They can be coded to behave in a sensible manner using VCDS.

I think that mine just got thrown in the back with all the other random bits I found that had fallen off or fixings I forgot to refit etc. It never seemed to make any difference to the seat adjustment, I think its purpose might have been to assist in moving the seat forwards while adjusting, most of us use our core muscles to do it as we always have done.

Hence the need to retighten especially if they have been refitted say after a windscreen replacement, but loosen & release the arm then retighten to break any corrosion building up.

Calm down dear! Far from suggesting there is more than one way to skin a cat you said "The only way to get that insert off the wiper motor is.............." I appreciate that by responding I am (also) splitting hairs and being petty.

All the warning lights will clear after a short drive of less than 100m without ever turning from lock to lock or even using full lock in one direction, I expect it probably needs to see some steering motion, unless you disconnect the battery on a dead straight road without having pulled over then it will never be put to the test.

I would say to myself, "once again my defensive riding and assuming that every other vehicle is driven with inattention has saved my life", that is to say I would not have come alongside said vehicle even if he looked to have made eye contact, much more and safer gains to be made on the approach and leaving the roundabout.

Even easier to cut with a hacksaw then, shame they were not brass. The OP is free to choose whatever method they like according to the tools they have to hand or choose to buy, AFAIK only one person was telling them that it could only be done their way " to use a puller as suggested or split it carefully using a Dremel" which is not always true having removed several myself. My puller alone was not going to remove my rear wiper, it had never been removed in 100K miles, being where I was I could not cut it off as to replace the arm would have been expensive and taken a long time, it needed a tap on the extraction bolt but that would likely have broken the screen, I used a combination of oak folding wedges and plywood spreaders to support the rear of the puller and very judiciously tapped the puller bolt with a selected hammer, it worked for me so I could re-use the wiper arm but I definitely would not recommend anyone else taking the risk. I crack all 3 wiper spindle fixings loose & retighten them at least once a year now to prevent future problems. Retightening alone is a good idea, I have had them come loose after many years and on an autoroute where I could least attend to it in safety.

Possible but implausible, sounds like an overvoltage situation but I am at a loss to think how that could come to be, hopefully the auto electrician will find the cause.

I did not know they were brass, if they are indeed brass then I'm surprised that they corrode on the shaft so well. Had I known they were brass I would have avoided using a grinder all the more, that comes from an engineering apprenticeship and learning and seeing the dangers of grinding wheels on surface grinders. I had no choice but to use an angle grinder on aluminium recently, I had plasma cut it 1mm too long, it went against all my instincts but worked just fine. I expect if I ever do get a Dremel I will start turning to it more and more.

"Nothing wrong with the car, just a glitch" That must have been so reassuring to hear! F***wits!

A petrol engine doing short runs in winter will always give appalling economy compared to a diesel, the gap is closing due to more refined & precise engine management, direct fuel injection etc but the physics involve remain the same, part of the problem is that we have had 2 or more generations of drivers who have never driven a vehicle with a manual choke to understand the enrichment that a petrol engine requires during warm up and the extra fuel that it consumes. Once a diesel engine has fired up the combustion chamber is at operating temperature and there is little if any fuel enrichment required, until this latest breed of DPF equipped abortions to me a diesel was the smart choice for those who only did short journeys, the only downside being the slow warm up of the heating system, testament to the much greater thermal efficiency but that has been overcome with the sliding shroud waterpumps which have brought with them their own problems.

I can see you are a risk taker by how few spare tyres you have on the roof! 😆

Lubricant wont make the slightest bit of difference, it will be corroded on. The pullers usually are not rigid enough to remove a corroded and seized wiper arm and will need the addition of the good news with a hammer, you can get away with that on the front spindles aside from the bonnet obstructing the swing but on the rear the puller is perilously close to the screen. A Dremel will work but not necessary, a hacksaw will have it off in no time without damaging anything else, angle grinders & dremels close to glass are not a good idea as the molten sparks will embed in the glass, maybe the Dremel does not throw off sparks, its the one tool that I have yet to find an excuse to buy = to date unnecessary.

Please post the photos and explanation of your old timing chain & tensioner Xman, they will be very informative.