J.R.

Don't get me wrong, I truly believe that a Yeti roof would withstand the weight but the roof rails would probably collapse and in doing so rip out the rivnuts, at the very least the roof panel would become indented and the roof rails wobbly although I reckon the former. None of which would be allowable for a helicopter landing H&S wise, even a slight drop to one side with the inertia and gyroscopic precession of the rotor blades would end up as a catastrophe. Having seen the spreader plates & bolts it would not surprise me if they had fitted a roll cage inside and had matching mounting plates attached to that, very easy to edit around stuff like that. You will be telling me next that they give actors guns loaded with live ammunition to shoot towards the cameraman/person.

Complete bullsh1t, if you believe the article then do what I did and watch the episode very carefully using freeze frame or 1/10 normal speed, Youtube makes it easy.

Were there not some still photos of the combination at rest? If you are OCD like me you will scrutinise the whole episode because the camera angles are carefully chosen to never show for more than a fleeting glance the platform attachment points but if you freeze frame at the right time you will see that there are several extra attachment points with spreader plates bolted through the roof, I bet if you DVLA search the registration number it was scrapped soon after filming. Any modern car roof, the roof not the roof rack, will hold a couple of tonnes, not allowed any more in the UK but abroad you still see them stacked three high in scrapyards like they did until the 80's when roof pillars were much much slimmer & weaker.

A Robin helicopter weighs just a littlemore than that!

Thanks for the clarification. As has been said it's a general warning lamp for a fault affecting the vehicle emissions, the good news is that it will almost certainly be a generic OBDII fault code that all manufacturers have to use and will be readable with a cheap fault code reader in the first instance, VCDS will give you precise information but a cheap OBDII reader will probably list what sensor etc is faulty or producing an out of spec output.

You could start by editting your first post to actually say what problem you believe you have and what you want to achieve, we are not clairvoyants on here. Also put your vehicle engine size; fuel and type in your profile. If I might ask a question of my own which might illustrate what I am saying: Do you think that I planted them upside down or too close together? For the humorists amongst you that is the punchline of a very old joke.

Thanks. I don't know for sure but from my study and understanding of the EGR process I believe that my vehicle will be producing less soot to be burnt off in the DPF albeit at the price of higher NOx emissions, the calculated and measured DPF soot levels bear this out and have always had such a difference since it was fitted, before there was a slight difference which was due to passive regens which are not taken into account by the ECU software. I am irked that fuel is wasted doing regens before they are really needed but perhaps the duration is shorter, I will be really pi55ed if the thing shuts down before it is actually clogged up because the algorithm says that it must be.

+ 1 to that!

A lack of servicing would not result in the problem the OP is reporting, I still think that it is a characteristic and not a problem. In any case his Haldex coupling is working despite a possible lack of maintenance.

Forget the dyno, do a timed 0-60 run or better still 30-70 in top gear if the figures are available. Back in the days when before Youtube and irritating influencers with stupid names like Shmee the road tests in Autocar or Motor magazines would give you the full range of performance figures, economy, dimensions, turning circle etc etc etc, nowadays all people seem to worry about is connectivity with their smartphone.

Do you have Climatronic or simple air conditioning? I have the latter in my Yeti, when the AC is switched off (I know the pump still circulates some fluid) if I select the screen defrost position rather than footwell or centre vents, the aircon switches itself on automatically and remains that way even when I restart the vehicle. IOt took me a long time to realise what was going on, the little green LED showing the aircon working is small and not something that I scan routinely, I only have vision in one eye and keep it on the road as much as I can. I have also noticed that when I have the airflow set to footwell and centre vents the air is much cooler at face level which I really appreciate, I would surmise that its the same for the screen unless the heat is turned up to defrost.

Normal that the guy did not explain the difference? - Only he or someone that knows him can answer that. Is 100 hp at the wheels normal for your vehicle? Well it would help if you were to say what you were expecting, what the manufacturers figure is.

I managed to have a VCDS session until the laptop battery decided to give up, it did so before I could save the measuring block data but luckily I wrote it all down. Since last regen 250455 seconds, 322185 alleged kms which is in fact metres, 17.45 litres of fuel consumed since, all correlate to each other once you correct the spurious units that they use. So IO have done 320km = 250 miles since the last regen which is OK, where my 90 miles came from might have been because I unknowingly interrupted a regen and the next journeys were not long enough for the conditions to be right. Some other interesting data, Field Regen Limit is 22.89g my calculated soot load is 18.15 indicating the next regen in 65 kms, however my measured soot load (remember my EGR is disabled) is only 4.67, this suggests that the engine only really needs to regen every 1500 kms with its present regime. At tickover the pressure drop across the EGR is actually negative at -6 HPa and at the 2500 rpm rev limit it rises to a positive 40 HPa, do these figures seem reasonable for a vehicle with 100000 miles? And as if the VCDS units are not confusing enough already they use a volume for the Oil Ash Volume, mine shows as 0.1 litres, I have no idea what this corresponds to as a mass or what the max limit is. What I would like to know is how many miles my DPF has left in it but without a oil ash mass figure I just dont know, I currently have by their reckoning 0.1 litres of oil ash although going by the measured vs calculated soot volumes I bet it is in fact a lot less, the pressure drop across the DPF is -6 HPa at tickover and + 40HPa at 2.5k rpm with the DPF having 4.67g of soot measured or 18.15 calculated. Based on the above can anyone estimate the remaining life or point me in the direction of where I can find either how to convert oil ash volume to mass or the maximum volume before its unserviceable? Any comments on the above values will be welcomed!

I too have come to that conclusion when I was keeping an eye on the figures. Even when I do believe there was passive regen activity the figures still rose in a linear fashion. I did once leave the laptop connected and have a passenger keep an eye on the values, the EGR temp rises very quickly when overtaking on full throttle, we did see 700°c but I agree regarding motorway cruising at the legal limit. I have done a lot of miles towing very large very overloaded van trailers, most inclines were full throttle and dropping one or two gears, three on A roads, I could not see the EGR temp but the oil temperature rose very quickly and significantly, these were 200 mile journeys an EGR had happened before leaving and I do believe that passive regen was happening on the journey, the very next day the car regenned again I think that the regen is triggered by the calculated soot load which does not take into account passive regens, however the active regen will be shorter if there is not as much soot to burn thanks to passive regeneration. I reckon the DPF differential pressure sensor input and the subsequent "Measured soot" value is not used for the regen trigger point it works using the calculated, if the measured is higher than the calculated for whatever reason then it will trigger a regen once it exceeds the threshold, the regen ends when the pressure sensor indicates that enough soot has been burned. The above is only my hypothesis based on observation, when I get back to France I can find the article which gives temperatures and soot laod trigger points, the latter only being relevant to the vehicle DPF system under consideration but the temperatures for active and passive regen will be relevant.

Understood, thanks for the clarification Vaderoguy. Paulski, I often look at the distance since last regen and its nevr very much, I'm too much of a disorganised muppet to subtract the figure from the odometer reading, write down the resultant figure as when the regen occurred, not lose the bit of paper so I can compare it next time I hear/feel a regen or remember to do another scan at a set mileage. I have too many other conflicting priorities, knowing myself well if I did do it and write it down I would only end up beating on myself for having lost it, or truth be told not being able to find it or remember where it was written. Does anyone know how much excess fuel is burned during a regen?

Were you pulling positiveG when it deployed? Dont drive wearing a G-suit

If it were the explosive pre-tensioning you would know all about it, you would be deafenened and the car would stink of explosive residue and burnt plastic, I am almost 100% certain that the airbag would have deployed as well, it also renders the seatbelt retractor mechanism unusable. If your seatbelt is still operating in the normal manner and there is no permanent airbag warning light on the dashboard then my assumption is that there is some kind of motorised retractor fitted also which was deployed by the circumstances you describe, yet more expensive and unreliable BS added to new vehicles. Please let us know if the seatbelts are working normally and the dash is free from warning lights.

The coupling that engages the propshaft to the rear differential giving you drive to the rear axle in addition to the front. Google will explain its operation, there are many videos.

Lack of maintenance could only result in the Haldex not engaging, what the OP is noticing (if I have understood his translation correctly) is the Haldex not disengaging in a timely fashion. To the OP, my car does this often when starting up and pulling out of a supermarket parking space on full lock or having reversed out pulling forwards on the opposite lock, it is momentary 4x4 axle wind up and it is a characteristic of the Haldex system being predictive, when you pull away it does not know of you are on a slippery surface or are going to accelerate hard, the algorithm will have the Haldex coupling partially engaged in anticipation, if you pull away slowly and it detects no wheel slippage it will be released resulting in the snatch as the axles unwind. Thats what I am putting my characteristic down to but I am keeping a close eye on it, if it gets worse then it could be a sticky clutch pack or actuator and will require my attention. Its hard to tell from your posting how bad yours is, most drivers would not even notice my vehicle doing it but as I have owned several old school 4x4s I recognise the symptom.

No problems, the values that I had were from an article written by a VAG engineer that explained the whole process very well and I believe that they were much higher, however I am working from memory as the printed and laminated article is in France and I am in the UK. Your figure of 15g may be correct but your use of light, full and full hard regen is very confusing, I dont think a "Light Regen" exists in that at 9g the vehicle ECU commands an operation however Passive Regens occur at any time the driving conditions are correct, high speed/high load etc. At whatever the threshold is be it 15g or 25g an Active Regen is commanded, it is not a Full or Hard Regen, it is the one and only Regen that the vehicle does automatically. Beyond that if the driver has ignored the warnings and the vehicle goes into limp mode having hit the higher threshold there is a Forced Regen which has to be done by a dealer or garage/individual equipped with VCDS or similar. Plese feel free to correct me as I am still learning and there is a lot of inconsistent and incorrect stuff written on the subject, I still do not know for sure if the regen is triggered by the measured value (from DPF diff pressure sensor) or calculated values, my car appears to be the latter.

Thank you from me as well, I had been asking for these values on another thread. Now I ust find the time to hook up VCDS.

Are you sure about that? The value seems far too low. When the light comes on it is to advise the driver to do an active and not forced regen, a forced regen is required if the driver has ignored the warning light, carried on driving short journeys and the soot level subsequently reaches the next threshold which puts the car into limp mode and brings up the engine wrning light as well.

I have noticed that the calculated soot values are always higher than the measured ones which correspond with the differential pressure readings, does the system trigger a regen based on measured or calculated values, it seems to be the latter on my vehicle. My EGR is disabled thanks to an emulator and I think that the engine now puts less soot through the DPF explaining the disparity between the measured and calculated values. Another question, when the ECU says that the DPF must be replaced is it from the differential pressure sensor readings or from the estimated oil ash mass/volume?

It would be usefull if people when posting the frequency of their DPF regens were to specify what their typical journey profile is and more importantly whether or not they have had the Dieselgate fix. I cn't run a DPF app & in any case would not drive with something like that to distract me, my vehicle has had the emissions fix, before lockdown when I did as many 30 minute journeys as local short ones if not more I never heard the fans running for an interrupted regen, I did notice them when driving and would say that there would be two per pank of diesel = 600 miles, looking at VCDS I never saw more than 220kms since last regen but I never made a note of the mileages or checked more often. Now with shorter journeys I frequently interrupt regens when shutting down and I reckon they are happening every 100 miles even when I have done most of that on motorways towing a very heavy and large trailer. Does anyone know the soot threshold or DPF differential pressure that triggers a regen on a 2.0 TDi CR engine with emissions fix? Also the threshold to finish a regen?

The OP wants a Start/Stop button, not a switch, ie a momentary contact that you push to start or stop the engine. I appreciate that you probably meant a normally open momentary contact push button switch A button wired as you say would start the engine but not stop it. Probably acceptable to the OP as his keys will be in the ignition anyway. In case the OP trys, you definitely do not want to use a 2 position switch on the starter circuit.