J.R.

Any mid range scan tool that can access the airbag control module will be able to erase the fault code to put out the warning light, where VCDS or similar are required is for correctly coding the new clockspring module. Dealership grade diagnostic equipment costs a four figure sum, VCDS £225, others cheaper.

Clockspring is foutu.

Bull***t The clutch bleed block does have a damper device which VAG call a "Clutch peak torque limiter" it''s function is to slow down the engagement of the clutch if you release the medal quickly, like sidestepping the clutch from a standing start for a burn out, - as you do! - not!!! Their logic is they would prefer the clutch to slip than the drivetrain to be subjected to peak torque, the only time you would notice it is a drag start or snatching a 4th, 5th or 6th gear upshift whilst stamping on the throttle and releasing the clutch mega quick, all the higher powered TDi's will slip the clutch under this abuse. But the above is absolutely not what you described (2K rpm when the turbo cuts in) unless you neglected to mention it was while upshifting. That said the test that he did with you in the passenger seat is the correct one, he could have got the clutch to slip by abusing it but he knows it is now weak and does not want to have to replace it.

You are not alone, I have been using my Avdel thin sheet nutsert kit for 35 years and it cost me £60 back then, they are flush rivets and need a slight countersink in the hole but even they would be resistant enough for the bonnet strut but the flanged ones that you propose would be much stronger, they are what all Skoda roof rails are held on with and if you believe Top Gear (and dont look very carefully) then you can land a helicopter on just 8 of the same size rivnuts. Am I the only person that thought the OP was talking about the suspension strut & on looking at the photo thought it was part of the anti-roll bar drop link?

You seem to have had a sense of humour bypass Llanigraham. Did you not notice the three exclamation marks at the end of my posting? Jokes are never as good if you have to explain them but the reference to the trailer was because no way can you get 5 people and 5 suitcases into a Yeti unless it was towing a baggage trailer. And I did not comment that trailer tyre pressures are mentioned.

I use tywraps as filler rods when making bodge repairs to many different types of plastics, many of us have them in various thicknesses and colours, well black and white and maybe some silver ones for wheeltrims.

The front subframe needs to be dropped with the steering rack and anti-roll bar hanging, the latter held up with tywraps or whatever. It is easier to remove the gearbox complete with transfer box but it adds significantly to the weight hence my using ratchet straps around it running over the engine support crossbeam, under a vehicle lift a transmission jack would do the business, as I was in a pit we laid an alu support platform from my decorating platform under it so it could be slid out. In fact we should have just left it under the car as it was only 15 minutes to swap the clutch & DMF. Other than the weight, the need to drop the crossmember and unbolt the front propshaft coupling there is no extra work or complications with the 4WD system, from memory the gerabox is withdrawn slightly & then has to be rotated a bit to come out, the reverse for reassembly, if the transfer box is left in place this is not necessary nor unbolting the prop coupling, however you risk damaging the seals between the transfer box and gearbox and I reckon it would be a lot harder to align both the bellhousing to the engine and the gearbox to the transfer casing simultaneously. yes it sounds like your slave cylinder seal has gone, I had to replace one at the side of the road today on a builders Transit RWD flatbed truck, external thankfully not a concentric one, it could not have been easier and I could have done it with simply a penknife to release the pipe connector spring clip, I had a hose clamp so I used it but the cylinder had a simple bayonet rotating fitment, release flexible hose, twist & remove old cylinder, push in and twist the new one, clip the hose back in place, open the bleed nipple by hand (knurled thumbgrip) wait for fluid to drip and close nipple, job done in less than 3 minutes!!!!

What are you trying to say with your obscure comment and awarding of yet another "groan" Llanigraham?

Dual mass clutch kit for mine cost €320 delivered from Italy.

I believe that you will have resonance problems and geartrain chatter with a single mass flywheel on the 6 speed transmission, not just poor NVH but enough to cause gear damage, for that reason I replaced mine (same slave cylinder problem) with another DMF flywheel clutch kit. As daunting as the job was it was no more than a slightly longer than usual DIY clutch job, I borrowed a friends pit and would recommend a vehicle lift but it could be done with jacks and axle stands, a 20 year younger version of myself that could still focus on close objects in poor light would have done it laying on their back. The only special tool I would say is pretty much essential is an engine support crossmember, using ratchet straps around it makes removing the 68kg gearbox/diff/transfer box a safer prospect, a standard 5 speed non 4x4 box I would lift out on my chest & replace using my shins but not this hippo. Its a days work taken at a slow pace with plenty of pauses for reflection, the labour hours that garages charge for the job are an exaggeration if I can do it in 30% less working very slowly with it being unknown and my being very rusty, at least 18 years since anything similar but without the 4x4 complication. I bet you have not noticed any fluid loss and when you remove the old slave cylinder it will be as clean as a whistle, if you cannot work out how it could get air in whilst under a constant head of pressure without leaking any fluid ask me and I will point you to the culprit, I wont say yet because I would be interested to hear yours or the mechanics conclusion.

That phrase should be ham forearmed, I have yet to see a ham resemble a fist or vice versa but Popeye forearms do look like hams.

Dowty washers seal axially. There is no need for any fancy solutions or even replacing the plug, VAG macining tolerances mean that a plain steel washer will seal against the machined aluminium sump, were it a steel sump with a copper washer the there would be some merit in replacing it, I wouldn't unless its face was damaged. A steel washer against an aluminium seat is not going to get damaged.

I fundamentally disagree with your assertion - "Thats completely not the way the system works. It will firstly try and remove power first before engaging the rear clutch mechanism, if there is still a slid or lack of traction, it will then and only then engage the rear wheels" As 26Dipp says it is a pre-emptive system - "i.e. when you start driving off or when you are accelerating from a steady speed the rear wheels will get more power through the Haldex clutch. The Haldex controller gets inputs from the ECU and even before there is slip on the front wheels the rear wheels kick in if "asked" for by the ECU. The Haldex is disengaged when braking and when the handbrake is on." He explains it better than I could, I call it a predictive system, its seamless in use and is in operation most of the time but people don't realise because it is not intrusive, this results in suggestions of abusing the system to see if it is working, any driver with an ounce of cerebral connection to the road via the controls would know immediately if it were not functioning in wet or slippery conditions but in general be unaware of its presence. You could put me behind the wheel of a car (on an open safe area) blindfolded in dry conditions and simply from pulling away in first gear I could tell you if the front or rear axle was delivering the motive force, if I were unsure it would most likely be a modern Haldex generation 4x4. My Yeti has never in my ownership felt like a FWD or rear wheel drive vehicle but I did service the Haldex straight away.

Its a shroud although I don't doubt that many suppliers call it a valve. It shrouds the impellor to prevent pumping. The system when it works is absolutely brilliant, compared to previous VAG TDi's the heater starts giving out heat much earlier and the engine gets up to full operating temperature in half the miles that it would without the shroud, for that reason I would replace mine like for like. Are they electrically operated? I think so because there is a connector, if so then its such a shame that they did not choose to do it in the reliable old school way with a wax pellet mechanism.

Even with the lowest powered and one of the heaviest of the Skoda 4x4's (108hp Yeti) and no longer driving like a hoon I would know very quickly that it was in FWD only when pulling out of a junction turning left or right in wet conditions on a less than perfect road surface. The problem is that you have to undo all the self learning of throttle modulation & traction control to actually make use of the 4WD which ultimately means when stepping back into a FWD or if/when the Haldex stops engaging you will get wheelspin pulling away in the situations above like an inexperienced driver.

Won't a clogged filter or gauze screen result in the same errors?

What book tells you to floor the throttle on an uphill section when in snow, ice or slushy conditions? The system works very well left to its own devices, if you need to floor the throttle for the RWD to cut in then it was not needed in the first place.

I think the 3 bar is the pressure for the trailer tyres that will be carrying the 5 suitcases for the 5 occupants of the Yeti!!!

Of course, I forgot that they measure at the tailpipe. There is a case to be made for the Lambda reading being measured from the OBD port, do they interrogate for fault codes in the UK MOT test? Lambda value out of limits would definitely generate a high level generic OBDII code.

Thats what I wanted to explain but the intelligible words just would not come to mind! Thanks for your explanation, I was aware that mine fell well short of the mark & may have confused the OP.

A correctly functioning closed loop lambda system would correct for any lean-ness or richness within correctable limits, I dont think an exhaust leak would put it out that far, an intake leak yes. Before Wino commented I could not remember if the higher value meant richer or weaker than the Stochiometric ratio. I doubt that its gone onto a limited operating strategy through the loss of a sensor input, MAF sensor for example because LOS mapping is always to the rich side of nominal. By far the best way to check a Lambda sensor operation is with an old school analogue moving coil display multimeter, its the only time mine gets used now.

Anything which is causing the ECU to switch to the default non closed loop setting, you should start with having the fault codes read with VCDS. They were not being picky, its a fail, the lambda voltage should switch high and low around an average reading of 1.0 volts for Lambda 1.0.

Its usually a roller ramp bearing free to rotate in one direction (when the engine fires) but the rollers lock in the other direction, it looks like a needle roller bearing only slightly thicker, if you have not heard any squawking/graunching noises then it hasn't broken up & will probably be simply gunged up.

Wait for a wet day and pull away from a slippery T junction with too much power for a FWD vehicle.

Seriously! And they will go on for a lot longer than that, even 25 years ago emissions standards required that a vehicle with zero maintenance should drive for 100000 kms and still remain within, well within in fact, the emissions limits, it spurned long life platinum spark plugs, multiple ignition coils, much larger air and fuel filters as well as well designed intakes that screened leaves etc from getting to the filter, PCV systems became much better and no longer contaminated the air filters. Over 15 years and 20000 miles in my 2001 Octavia I removed the air filter to shake it out but only replaced it once, I was OCD about the fuel economy and would have noticed even the slightest increase, it never happened, it was only when it looked discoloured that I fitted the new filter which I had in stock from the beginning. The diesel fuel filter was not replaced until 275000 miles because I kept being supplied the wrong ones, Eurocarparts speciality! OTOH oil and oil filter changes are as essential as ever but they dont affect emissions or fuel consumption, without them the main stealers would lose their opportunity to rob customers each year. As a consequence oil filter sizes have not increased.