J.R.

It will not be the wrong parts or the driven plate fitted reversed, that would have been apparent immediately and would not cause air to be drwan into the system. I am one million percent certain of what your problem is, you asked what you can/should do and I suggest you follow my above advice to see if I am correct, I will be very happy (for you) to be proved wrong because your problems will start with trying to get the garage to re-do the job correctly given how they have behaved so far.

Can anyone confirm whether the hole in the bellhousing where the plastic pipe exits should have a rubber grommet to take up the clearance? Mine didn't and I cant see one on any of the parts diagrams, the absence of such apart means that the heavy bleed block attached to the white plastic pipe can vibrate with the engine revolutions creating an oscillating movement of the pipe joint against the main cylinder that is solidly attached, this wears the O ring. I have an oil change and cam belt inspection to do this week, I am going to seal this gap even though I have a solid aluminium cylinder with no joint. I should add that I suspect the vibration from a less than perfect dual mass flywheel aggravates or even cause the vibration, it always seems to be the higher powered cars that suffer, mine was perfect until a remap and its first failure was the very first time I gave it the beans on the drive home. I replaced the DMF with the clutch, did your garage do the same? Maybe they have a new DMF and a concentric cylinder put to one side for future use?

Take matters into your own hands, remove the air filter for access and fit a bleed tube to the nipple on the plastic thumbturn bleed nipple on the clutch bleed block. hold the pipe vertically upwards and open the valve 90°, you should see fluid rise immediately but you wont and it will be air for a few seconds then aerated fluid which will reach its level in the tube followed by micro air bubbles, when these stop close the nipple. You will only have lost a tiny amount of fluid in the bleed pipe. I am betting that your clutch will then work properly but will rapidly deteriorate with the pedal getting lower, do the same check and you will see the same thing, then you can go to the garage and tell them exactly what is wrong and what they should do. If you look at the picture above, on the slave cylinder you will see a joint between black and white plastics, this contains an O ring and is inside the bellhousing, air is drawn into this joint but it never leaks fluid, it defies logic as it has a positive head pressure from the master cylinder but I am 100000% positive that this is the cause of the many reported clutch problems like yours and mine which took me 6 months to diagnose and finally resolve when I was having to bleed the clutch every few miles of driving. In your case the garage probably has not actually replaced the concentric slave cylinder when they saw it was not leaking, I would not even fit the one that came with my clutch kit, I found a new old stock VAG part made in aluminium in one piece without the joint and used that.

A bit pointless on such a new vehicle when cleaning would probably suffice if it is even needed, it sounds like a sensor or cabling problem, you should get it scanned as a matter of priority, it may not be getting the data to initiate or complete a regen, you probably dont have a blocked DPF but you will have if regens cannot occur and you continue driving. The absence of a signal or reliable data from the DPF differential pressure sensors may prevent the vehicles normal safeguards, warning lights, limp mode etc, from preventing the DPF from filling beyond the limit where it can be recovered. That is when you start considering DPFectomies, you don't want to put yourself in that situation.

I skimmed through, listened to a couple of snippets and the last 3 minutes, I definitely will set aside the time. I am dissapointed though, I was expecting some georgeous creature speaking with a captivating accent wearing very little skin tight clothing doing Yoga poses, if it wasn't you that posted one before then I apologise for confusing you with someone else, suffice to say had it been I would still be behind the computer in 45 minutes time

Vehicle value is pretty much inconsequential in their risk assessment, the damage to other vehicles, property, personal injury claims, claims for permanent disability and all the false or inflated ones encouraged by the Ambulance chasers is the vast majority of their liability, its why there is relatively little difference in fully comp & third part only insurance premiums, there is a much bigger gap in my country where the claims culture does not exist but the Third Party liability remains the greater part of the risk assessment and premiums. Even when insurers pay out on say a £10K vehicle their loss is far far less, the excess is deducted, they will get up to 60% back guaranteed from salvage dependant on the category without any costs, the deal is done globally in advance with the salvage yards according to category, there is no negotiation on individual vehicles, they recover or collect them, store them, allow access to examiners then have to pay a fixed percenteage when they are "cleared" by the insurers. The insurers then cancel the remaining term of the insurance without refund of premium and will charge the client more for many years to come on their subsequent vehicle(s), they move to another company who will do the same and the ex clients of that company will move to another possibly the first one, its a merry go round where they always win.

Be carefull, it became a rabbit-hole for me and also a friend in Dublin who I casually mentioned it to. For myself, it being not far from me piqued my interest,I discovered a forgotten tragedy with a political and colonial back story from what seems in hindsight a different world.

Will it have bodywork of fabric stiffened with highly inflammable dope? The hydrogen vented off and burnt above the passenger car, even wartime gasbag conversions put the gas bladder on the roof, the opposite of an EV and probably any hydrogen vehicle. I recently traced the site of the R101 airship disaster in a forest south of Beauvais l'Oise, all but forgotten to the majority in the shadow of the Hindenburg.

Yes and no. I drove 500 miles yesterday in 9 hours (should have been 8 but for Paris congestion), first 3 hours on RN's & RD's (A & B roads) with one detour for a 5 minute stop at a Lidl to get sustenance and a pee at the side of the road before regaining the motorway, I had made up a flask of coffee before leaving. On the journey down the Paris congestion at the start of the journey and the slow boring 3 hours at the end caused me to take multiple stops to sleep & pee, that journey took 10.5 hours because of a mistake when setting out, I was on autopilot and heading for the Dieppe ferry I can do the journey in under 8 hours if I pick my times but getting up earlier invariably means I stop more on the route. Editted, no kids, no dogs but I do have an aged weakened bladder.

That is not bravery, I have run every tankfull for a minimum of 50 miles beyond "zero" on the MFD since 2005 and only ever ran out when I had a fuel sender problem. Octavia 1, Octavia 2 and Yeti, 200-250 thousand miles. The range the display gives you when you refill is the range that you will get (and more) without running out if you drive in a similar manner, it is linear down to below 1/4 of a tank, about the time the fuel warning light comes on it starts cheating to create a reserve capacity of 5 litres or more (I reckon its more like 7) by knocking off remaining miles double quick. Those who refill when the fuel light comes on are filling up are refilling their vehicles one extra time for every 3 (proper) fill ups, that adds up to a lot of time over 16 years but nothing to the time that we will be spending when we all dribe EV's.

I have owned my Yeti for 2 years now & still don't actually know if the heated mirrors work and/or how to operate them/how they should operate. I tried to use them this morning but did not see any change through having done so, on previous cars they came on with the rear screen heater, not sure if they do on this one, the mirror control manette has a mirror heating position, I switched it to that this morning but it didn't seem to make any difference, maybe its to disable the function? Having taken a vow never to read an instruction manual does make some things a little more difficult but it simplifies the majority!!!!

Measure the voltage with the wires connected to the mirror heating element, it should then read close to zero volts with the switch in the off position and something a bit less than 12v with it on the heating position. What you are probably seeing is a small control current to detect if the element is working or not or short circuited.

Are you sure that under the conditions you describe the regen is actually continuing and finishing or simply the fans running because the DPF is critically hot from the interrupted regen when you were driving? I would love to believe that you are right but when I was rebuilding my Yeti it got moved from place to place in my parking area, in and out of the garage etc over a few weeks, never driven on the road, eventually I heard the fans running on switch off so I knew it had tried to regen, I left it ticking over for a long time until the fans stopped thinking like you that I had allowed it to regen, but once warmed up it would try again, fans running when I switched off. I repeated the idling regen several times once for nearly an hour, very soon after that and with zero miles driven the DPF warning light came on telling me I had to take it for a spirited drive. Luckily I had finished the repairs by then so after getting the engine warm I drove between junctions on the A23 and the light went out within around 5 miles. My car regenning every 90 miles like at present I believe is in fact several attempts to do the same regen, I found in VCDS that 240 kms had elapsed since the last regen and then drove another 40kms before it regenned, then I did 190 autoroute miles to Picardie followed by 550 miles the next day to Nouvelle Aquitaine. I was dismayed to hear it regen the very next day and do the same 3 days on the trot even though I had driven 100 miles on each day, but they were slow rural trips househunting with many stops, I am convinced that it was the same regen never having the right conditions to complete.

The noise is not the pivot (which does not have bushes) but the spring loaded (very strong) button that rides on an arc shaped cam, this is a control loading device which is both a pedal return spring and a pedal assist spring, once over the centre unassisted part it helps push the pedal to the floor which is why it sticks there if air gets into the hydraulic circuit, in a correctly functioning system the clutch diaphragm spring pushes the master cylinder piston back (via the slave cylinder) and once it has got past the centre position it pushes the pedal back up. A long description but that is where you should be directing the spray from your snake oil of choice. A proper grease would be the best, its what is applied in the factory, any sprays like WD40 are likely to remove what little remains, a spray White Grease perhaps?

Why do they call them Portal Axles when the vehicle retains its existing axle and simply has reduction hubs fitted? Maybe because the ratio is 1:1 so no reduction, "geared hubs" perhaps?

Its never a good idea to use a pressure washer in the vicinity of electrical connectors but these are (normally) well sealed and in this instance its very good that you did, otherwise the bodge may not have come to light for a long time, maybe even when you needed the ABS for an emergency stop in wet weather.

It certainly has or had more defoamer, I used to have a hell of a problem refilling the Octavia 1 and 2 with diesel in the UK, no problem at all in France, the Yeti has the problem licked so I don't know if the UK fuel remains as was or has now been improved. You could be right regarding the calorific value, I always get less to the gallon in the UK but put it down to the journey profiles and traffic, since covid all my journeys aside from country to country have been local, last time in the UK my fuel economy did not drop, because of the fuel shortage I had refilled at Calais and drove for the 2 or 3 weeks in the UK on the same fuel, usually within a week I will have filled with UK fuel. And now I come to think of it the journeys France to England (190 miles) vs the exact same return trip are always more economical and yet there is only 9 meters of elevation difference between the two properties, the fuel for each trip 99% of the time has been bought from the destination country. Elevation does make a difference, I frequently travel 25 miles to Arras which is 40m lower than my property, there is an 6mpg difference between the outward and return journeys on the same roads at the same speeds, the mean of the two equates to my average for similar journeys. Returning to sea level from the Alpes would give better economy than in the other direction although the difference would be minimised by the long journey, add in different fuel and it could be significant.

Squared not to the power of three. It is linear at lower velocities, I do not know what the transition point is, it would be very usefull to know if anyone does. Editted, when checking I found that the power requirement and hence fuel consumption does indeed rise by the power of three with speed even though drag raises with the power of two. It is because "power is the rate of doing work" so even with the slipperiest car in the world drive at twice the speed the aero resistance is 4 times and you will use 8 times as much fuel. Incredibly wasefull when you consider that most of the energy of the fuel disappears as heat in any case.

Agreed.

They have completed screwed up the steering geometry with that conversion, just look at the positive scrub radius, I bet its an absolute pig on the road, like a shopping trolley with a mind of its own.

I can also read from your description another fault I once created, I had not correctly inserted and clipped into position one of the solid to flexible turbo hose joints albeit on the MK2 by then, it did not hold boost for long enough to detach or be noticeable in the lower gears but in the higher ones and at higher speeds it was exactly as you described. I was faced with a drive back to France but on a dual carriageway it could barely maintain 70mph on the flat, the slightest incline was like you described.

Next time it happens cycle the ignition, if it picks up power even if only for a few seconds then its the vanes and/or the actuator sticking on the turbo, time for a Mr Muscle enema!

If you are going to ask me questions it would be better not to contradict the answers before I have even replied. I have a couple for you though without answering them for you: Where have these insurance claims "certainly" been refused in EU countries? Where did I say or even intimate that any of this was enforced in the UK?

Correct, disregard the well intentioned but incorrect advice, you need to find what wheel and tyre sizes (inc speed rating) were homologated for your vehicle, you can request an EU certificate of conformity from VAG and they are one of the fe manufacturers that dont (currently) charge for the service, it will list all the tyre and rim variants homologated for your particular vehicle, the number that you have is the reference and there may be a way to search for the info on the net. A much simpler way is to look at the tyre pressure sticker on the rear of the fuel filler flap, if it has not been changed then it should list all the homologated tyres, mine corresponds with my CoC but I can't recall if it shows the speed and load ratings. Another way might be to ask an MOT tester, here in France a vehicle fails on non homologated wheel & tyres so when they input the VIN number as well as getting the emissions test limits they also get the permissable wheel and tyre combinations from the homologation certificate, I don't know if UK testers get the same info.

I think that its good practice to fit a smaller fuse than what the cable is rated to, sufficient to protect the radio. My explanation could have been misinterpreted by someone who might fit a smaller cable than required.