J.R.

Engine oil cleaner ?

Are you saying that indicating after having done a mirror check and not seen anyone is a sloppy driving habit and should be discouraged? I know full well that even after checking all 3 mirrors there could be traffic in a blind spot, I cannot see a vehicle arriving at a side junction ahead while I am looking in the mirror. I have to be super aware when driving as I only have vision in one eye, on autoroutes or dual carriageways my blind spots seem to be magnets for other motorists who slow down to my speed once they have hidden themselves there, it is much much worse in recent years and I think that they are using active cruise control which slows them down to maintain a seperation with the vehicle in front, they seem happy to sit there mile after mile and oblivious to the danger they are causing. I see them approach in my rear mirror and if they have not passed through the blind spot in the time it should take at their speed I have to move my whole body round to see where they are (left eye blind) which is dangerous in itself, and if they sit right beside me I still have to turn my head every few seconds, I know young motorcyclists in town have not learned the hard way what an angle mort is but the name should tell them something. I know that I don't always indicate, it's not something I do every time because thats how I was taught, I never had a single driving lesson either from an instructor or family or friends. Returning home at night on deserted country roads I can be reasonably certain that a lack of headlight beams indicates a lack of vehicles but given that at least 20% that I see on those journeys have at least one front or rear light not functioning I can't be sure of that, dependant on the circumstances I will indicate if I have any doubt.

As for being part of a "wonderfull trio" I can assure you that there is no connection or communication between us, with one we disagree somewhat but are aligned on most subjects, there is always a mutual respect between us with thanks & like emojis often being exchanged, never any insults or sarcasm, we are both adults & respect the differing views of others. The other claims to have blocked me so unlikely to be an ally, nonetheless I respect him, agree with the majority of his postings and show that through thanks and like emojis, I probably have already done so to yourself but not for responses like the above.

Thank you for correcting and educating me. I don't wish to argue the toss, if as I believe it is a space saver spare wheel then its purpose is clear, temporary use at restricted speeds in the event of a puncture. If the load and speed rating of that spare tyre is the same as the tyres homologated on the vehicle (91V shows on the photo) then what I said about it being a space saver & for temporary restricted speed use is incorrect but I doubt it because why would they have used such a narrow rim if there is space for a full width one? And for what it is worth when I wrote what I did after reading the thread I did not even know who had said what, your username does not ring any bells with me, I may have disagreed with another posting at some time like I will have with most people but I certainly can't have been jumping on everything that you say as your username does not even register with me, I don't know about the others. Given your response it's far more likely that I will have responded to a previous insult in a reciprocal manner, you cannot have made a habit of it as until now I was completely aware of you. I live & learn.

Eventually with maturity you will start to question whether what you have been doing because you were taught to do so is actually relevant, correct or appropriate. I live in a country where this never happens 99% of the time thanks to the education system and I face the results every single day, if you ask someone why they do something like leave the left indicator on when in the 3rd lane of a motorway, driving on the bumper of the car in font etc they always respond "on m'a dit" if you labour the point and say "but why? for what purpose?" which is culturally unacceptable they get very uncomfortable and have no response, they genuinely don't know why. Nobody can say with 100% certainty that there is not another road user or pedestrian around who would benefit from your signalling your intention to manouevre although when I was younger I would 100% have believed that I did, it does no harm to signal a change of lane direction etc systematically and may save a life. I don't buy the statement that its an indication of not being aware of the surroundings, if there is nobody there the its an indication to who?

In the meantime open the door, stand on the inside face with your knees braced against the inner face and forcibly pull the top of the frame towards you, right knee against the door frame taking most of the reaction. Leave the glass raised, dont worry about it breaking, it won't. That way you should be able to get it back flush to prevent any water leaks and wind noise and one less visual reminder for your mother. You will no doubt be as sceptical as I was when someone told me we were trying to get into a car where the keys were locked inside (pre deadlock days) he yanked the frame aside from outside enough to get his arm in to release the door. I have seen cars with the window frame hanging out at 30° where a handbag or laptop computer has been stolen and the glass hadn't broken, applying the same brute force in the opposite direction and you would not even have known it had been done without looking forensically on the inside rear of the door shut which is usually covered with a vinyl trim. Your door will be replaced anyway so nothing to lose or if you get a prompt estimate ask them to tweak it back.

Its a space saver spare wheel, in order to get the same rolling diameter but with a reduced width of 125mm it is necessary to use an 18" wheel rim, what matters is the rolling diameter and its load rating, the load rating is at a much reduced speed and the rim should be covered by a 360° large yellow sticker warning of that and as a visual indication to any Police that you should not be exceeding 80km/h It is definitely not a wheel whose purpose was to fit over larger diameter brake discs and calipers. Does the spare wheel fit flush with the boot floor? If so then if by the means of a moulded polystryrene spacer/tool tray the its a factory fitment, if its 8cm below flush then the original spare has been lost or damaged and replaced with a space saver.

All of it, I made it all up as usual, all fantasy, I simply regurgitate what the main dealer tells me, I trust them implicitly as I would not know one end of a screwdriver from the other.

Well done for you for finding that video, it was very informative and has answered some lingering questions that I had from changing my own DMF recently. Long before the narrator got to speaking of the noise I could immediately see that those pendulum weights would make a rattling on declutching coming to a new equilibrium as the gear train is no longer absorbing the torsional vibration and your noise could well correspond to that. As you say, you need to find if your vehicle and the others affected have these new flywheels fitted. At the end of the video he speaks of another one for more information on the functio of a basic dual mass flywheel, do you possibly have a link to that one.

The clue is in the name, "damper" and not "spring".

Your new battery may not be the corect type and/or the battery management controller has not been recoded for its parameters. I think the battery management system, regenerative charging on over-run, only 75% charging etc remains active even if start:stop is switched off, it definitely reverts to a proper charging regime if the shunt resistor is disconnected. I had guessed from what you said before that the battery had been changed and thats when your problems started.

Why would you expect a piston rod of a damper without a spring to return to the extended position after being pushed down?

I much prefer the system in my country, its the car that is insured and not the owner/driver, anyone holding a valid driving license is insured to drive it anywhere although the excess is increased if a young and inexperienced driver has an accident in it. It also means that if you insure several vehicles and have an accident in one of them, or someone you lend it to does then you only lose or have a reduction to your No Claims Bonus for that vehicle only. So at a roadside check, rare as they are these days, one glance at the windscreen vignette(s) will tell the officer that the vehicle is insured and tested, all the driver has to do is to produce his license and unless there is any suspicion of the vehicle being stolen (or him being under the influence of drink or drugs) then all is good. I have never even been asked for my license.

Obviously she is going to pay for the repair........................................... That is not something that would be obvious to me. I would pull the top of the door into alignment while she was not looking, tell her she must have better eyes than me if she can see a small dent that I cannot. If she can see it and she remarks about it when she does meaning it is causing her anguish, then I would quietly and discreetly have it repaired & say nothing about it, if she cant see it but you can and it bugs you then do exactly the same thing.

If it is s start/stop vehicle then disconnect the shut resistor wire from the battery negative lead (I think its the negative one) and leave it off, the alternator will then revert to the default normal charging regime and your battery will last a lot longer. You will lose the stop/start facility by doing so.

I don't explain things in the best of ways and my use of the old fashioned "declutch" phrase doesn't help, I believe the noise I heard from under the bonnet was the turbo wastegate releasing boost pressure with a chattering motion, I was saying that it doesn't happen with deceleration or revving the engine up and down, both those scenarios are likely to be followed by acceleration so the boost pressure is maintained, however declutching (disengaging the clutch) for a gearchange in the lower gears where there is a big drop in revs to the next ratio I believe the ECU operates the turbo wastegate. Its what it sounds like, its what I think the noise is, my explanation is only a proposal and I am hoping that those more knowledgable than myself will either confirm or disprove the theory. As much as I was convinced it was a mechanical noise at first I am now equally convinced from hearing the other videos especially the underbonnet one and all the Kevins that hoon past my property (echos from the buildings like in a tunnel) to make farty, chattery,spooky noises, that it is a wastegate noise, its more plausible than multiple transmission failure at low mileages. Of course the explanations from Skoda are total BS but that and total indifference is to be expected, any truthfullness would be a random coincidence.

The guy in the last video has the same suspicions as I do now having heard all of them, turbo wastegate chatter, the chavs around here pay a fortune to modify theirs to sound like sh1te and for people to hopefully look at them, they have had to adopt their driving technique to do the decelleration/declutch every 10 yards, one has one that makes a spooky whooshing howling noise. It was his underbonnet audio recording that convinced me, his subtitles suggest the turbo. I am guessing and I hope someone will confirm/deny/explain that the boost pressure is bled off when you declutch to change gear but not if you simply decellerate.

I found that you could still access some archived threads on that site. I have broken a record, 2 hours sitting on an uncomfortable solid wood dining chair at the kitchen table laughing myself to pieces at the computer! It was worth it! And no, I dont do Fessbook!

That forum linked to would appear to have died many years ago.

My apologies, you are 100% correct, I had bought from Ebay but had yet to use it, I was sure that it drew fluid but have just checked it and it is indeed a sniffer, I can see your problem.

Its been more than 20 years since I have seen or known of a specialised exhaust fitting centre and I am talking about the busy South East where there is everything, exhausts in general last so long and have done so since the advent of closed loop catastrophic convertors and aluminised systems that there just doesn't seem to be the business around for one to survive. The last survivor that I recall was Mr Exhaust at East Grinstead, they gave up some time in the last century, do any members still have an Exhaust Centre near them? -I dont include the likes of Kwik Fit as a specialist exhaust fitting centre. For the first 20 years of my motoring if an exhaust lasted 18 months you were doing well, the factory fitted one may have lasted longer but any subsequent ones didn't, adverts always used to read new/recent exhaust, my Minis needed the manifold flange seal redoing every 3 months. I remember being shocked in 2007 I think it was, during the Credit Crisis or whatever the economic slump was called, the government were giving £1K or might have been £2K scrappage for people to PX a 10 + year old vehicle against a new one, there were super reliable cars in fantastic condition being scrapped because they needed a new exhaust section, the first repair that they had ever required.

I have not read all the postings but have you not tried a cheap combustion residue test of a sample drawn from the coolant? They are very cheap, easy to use and will tell you definitively if the problem is a combustion leak under boost.

Most Yetis that I follow on the road don't have a 4x4 badge, assuming it has not been removed then what engines would they have aside from the 110HP? My 4x4 was 110hp, I think its actually 108hp & feels much less than that, it should never have been combined with the 4x4 transmission IMO as it makes it even more underpowered. Past tense used as I have had it remapped.

I think the oil pressure warning light is inhibited under 1500 rpm, otherwise even a perfect engine when hot running a thinner grade oil would have the light winking at tickover. Oil change, filter change & if it remains drop the sump & clean the pick up pipe strainer.

There is a very large hidden unused volume under the front seats but above the crossbar even with the seat at its lowest height setting.