J.R.

Mine has no wheel well but there is a foam insert which carries the towing eye etc, I dont think/dont recall that there was any space underneath it but I seem to recall some space in a box shaped pressing to the right that looked like a battery tray, maybe I put a jack in there? - I simply cannot recall. There is only one thing for it, I will have to turf out all the brin to have a proper look and then find it refuses to pack away again, you know how it is when you keep squeezing extra "essential" items in!!!! Better for me to find out here and now that I didn't put a jack in there than at the side of the road with a puncture.

Of interest to me is where did you find the diff bearings and particularly the outer oil seals?

Does the vehicle as sold by the factory come with a jack or indeed is there a space for a jack? The obvious answer is that I should simply look to see but I created a vario-floor which is packed out with essential breakdown stuff I can't get enough space to lift out the polystryrene moulding. I know the original electric inflator and tyre gunge were missing when I bought the car, these I replaced and also added tyre plug kits and one of those mushroom plug fitting sets plus wheelbrace etc, these I can remember and can see, what I can't recall is did I put a scissor jack in there? If I did then it's not visible and must be in a compartment beneath the moulding, I just cannot recall. I used to carry a space saver wheel and bottle jack on the longer removal journeys but the latter was mainly for the trailers, I removed the rear seats a year ago and strapped the space saver wheel above the fuel tank but it has dawned on me that I may not have had a jack in all that time 😒 So back to the question, did the 4x4 without spare wheel have a jack or was there space for one? Thanks in advance.

The "locking" that has been described - "steering turned applying gas" will be transmission wind up not the differential planet gears locking up, there is a small degree of wind up or snatch present normally when reversing or driving forward on lock out of a parking space due to the pre-emptive engagement of the Haldex which I feel and am aware of but only because I drove proper 4x4's for many years. Even when the Haldex is 100% engaged (I dont accept the 35% is maximum, that is nonsense, I have driven mine on test watching live data) it declutches momentarily every few seconds to release any transmission wind up. As I alluded to above different rolling diameters of tyres on front and rear axles will cause real problems of wind up. I think the haldex plates are not releasing smoothly as they should, this could be a problem with the pressure relief valve, contaminated Haldex fluid or clutch plate metal contamination.

By "tricking it clear" do you mean selecting the option to say the DPF has been replaced? I also did that but I believe it can lead to problems. Come back to us with your readings from the parameters above at both tickover and high revs which might be limited to 2500 rpm at standstill, my DPF is somewhat clogged now from using the wrong oil so I know what a high reading is compared to what it used to be, I found it very hard to get any concrete figures on the internet not helped by the multitude of different units of measure.

Certain conditions have to be fulfilled for a VCDS driven regeneration which has the options of a driven or static one, engine temperature, fuel level etc. I tried doing a forced regen 2 days ago and it refused saying ERROR conditions not met or request sequence error which is as much help as a chocolate teapot, I had the same trouble with the routine for purging air from the injection system. And yet if too many regen attempts are foreshortened it will try and regen the next day on a cold engine as soon as you start it! There are so many parameters for the DPF most of which are for other vehicles and show nothing, the terminology changes all the time as well just to add to the confusion, these are the ones I select when looking at live data on my engine but I have to scroll through thousands to find them, this time I took a photo to make it easier next time. Particle filter: difference pressure (not a typo!) DPF: Offset for differential pressure Particle filter: soot mass calculated Particle filter: soot mass measured Particle filter: oil ash volume Particle filter; kms since last regeneration You can see the differing terminology, your oil ash may well be measured as mass and probably have the wrong units stated. The kms are actually shown as metres. Regens are triggered on calculated and not measured values, frequently the measured are far lower. On my vehicle they are triggered at a calculated 23 grammes, there is a higher threshold 35g??? where it then has to have a forced regen if you can actually get it to work, and a higher one still 40g????????? where it will not allow anything but replacement, for the life of me I cannot understand why a non blocked filter showing low measured back pressure would have to be replaced because of a wildly pessimistic calculated reading.

We should be thankful it wasn't the usual dissertation on battery charging and "invasive" computer systems.

How do you notice"more guts" unless you are driving on full throttle? More instant throttle response I could understand. I drive very economically pretty much all the time so would not know that the vehicle had gained or lost power until I tried to use it. If I am aware of a regen I will select a lower gear than normal but only in a 50kph limit where I am usually doing less than 1000 rpm.

Yes but first they have to read through a huge volume of irrelevancy, this OP was wise, he no doubt has seen what goes on so requested very specifically what he wanted advice on. I for my part have added to said volume this time because I sometimes feel the need to challenge nonsense which when oft repeated might be taken as gospel.

150°c with a dry sumped motorcycle engined Caterham during endurance races on short circuits like Lydden Hill or Brands Hatch club circuit, much less on faster longer circuits like Silverstone, Cadwell park etc. It hit 170°c once but ran a crankshaft bearing.

I agree regarding buying the vehicle first! Wheel fitting tools are completely irrelevant to the OP who wrote very specifically what he was seeking advice for: What do I need advice for?: - Worth buying the Skoda Oct. with the above mentioned engines yet high mileage? - Other brands/models that could be relevant? - Something worthwhile that i haven't considered & presented in my above mentioned thoughts?

My advice is that you should be more specific with the details. What is your engine, fuel type and transmission (manual or auto, 5 or 6 speed)? Multiple warning lights, - which ones? Needed recovery - why? Lots of faults coming from transmission - what were they?

Yes EGR is inhibited, I doubt that there is any performance gain unless any of the post combustion injection fuel remains in the cylinder after the exhaust stroke, my engine sounds raspy and rough when doing a regen but I need the windows open to appreciate it, I should say used to sound as since having the emissions fix rolled back it only regens once every 1000kms and I am never aware of it, fans have only come on once from an interrupted regen once in 3 years. It would be normal for the gearbox to change up and down at higher revs during a regen, the maxidot display on the manual gearbox cars changes its suggested gear prompts in this manner during a regen, the owners manual advises the driver to do exactly this during a regen.

Do you have different sized wheels or tyres on the front and rear axles?

I dont have an auto but that sounds perfectly plausible, the gearchange prompts on my Maxidot display will tell me to change down earlier and hold a lower gear longer when the engine is doing a regen. Not that I take any notice of them, I don't like being told what to do!

I'm afraid it is very unlikely to diagnose a failed or failing lithium battery on the alarm module PCB, my VCDS never showed any fault codes until the acid corroded the tracks and the module stopped communicating with the Canbus Gateway, the siren even worked using the Output Tests. To the OP there is nothing to indicate that your vehicle needs a new main battery so you can stop worrying about the coding of a new one.

My pleasure! Thanks for the thanks!

One alone works just fine, I bought a pair and gave one to my Skoda owning neighbour as it was redundant. Most people only have one. Having 2 does make it slightly easier in that you dont have to rotate the wheel to get the first bolt in but it is also much harder to lift the heavy wheel and align it onto 2 studs. Using 4 studs is just plain daft.

Sounds like you have quite a decent unit anyway so ignore my suggestion, the Chinese ones often come with their fair share of niggles. When the clocks changed recently I had to reset the dashboard time on my 2015 Yeti but the Chinese Shatnav unit did it automatically, if it hadn't been for the arrival time looking wrong (it wasn't) I would not have known the clocks had changed.

Good to hear that you resolved it, without that video you would have been stuffed! I certainly would have baulked at buying another one even if all the indications were that the first one was faulty.

I was going to disagree until I realised I had not taken in the word above So instead I agree and think its a very good description to cover a wide range of operating conditions and giving a margin of security. Engine oil will frequently go up to and above 130°c when towing a very heavy load with a big wind frontage, that is well within the capabilities of the oil and lubrication system, I have seen it peak to 140°c once, it will usually come down to within your range once on the flat, if it doesn't then something is becoming marginal. The water temperature would no doubt also have climbed in the above scenario but the gauge hides that from me, it's better to not be worrying about 2 things at once!

My linkage was always sloppy, it felt like a very old car, it was only when I removed the gearbox to replace the clutch slave cylinder that I found someone had been there before me, someone who threw away fixings when he could not immediately see where they had removed them from and left others finger tight..................... When I came to remove the weighted quadrant shown in the first photo the nut was only hanging on by a thread and the quadrant was flopping around all over the place, after refitting the gearbox and tightening the nut correctly I initially found it harder to select gears, I had to be much more precise now the linkage had no play. Something else to check on yours but from the photo it looks OK, some lubrication would not go amiss though.

I'm not sure if you are going to get angry with my solution and its contrary to the rule which you posted in upper case text but here goes. I dont know what radio you have fitted as you have not specified (without that detail how can people help you?) but unless its the top of the range one you could spend your repair money on an upgrade to a full screen LCD head unit with Satnav, Bluetooth and whatever those acronyms are that allow connectivity with your smartphone, this will give you the correct time and loads of other beneficial features like a reversing camera etc.

We have yet to hear of one!!!!! They work as far as the manufacturers and sellers are concerned because people pay them money for them!

Volontairement! Soot mass measured being a negative value. It is not measured as such but based on how resistant to flow the DPF matrix is, to do that there are 2 pressure sensors, one before and one after the DPF the difference between them (the differential hence "differential pressure sensor) is the pressure drop across the DPF or its resistance to flow, how bunged up it is with soot (which is removed during a regen) and oil ash which isn't. You cannot have a negative reading meaning a lower pressure on the engine side than the outlet of the DPF. A new sensor has to be adapted (a VCDS routine) to atmospheric pressure and the outputs of the pre and post DPF sensor. That probably hasn't simplified things but it was the simplest way I could describe it. It is usual to see the (not) measured soot value being less than the calculated (due to passive regeneration) but not a negative figure.