J.R.

Are you speaking of coolant temperature sensors or the dashboard heating duct sensors?

450mm lift height (which will be less allowing for clearance to slide lifting blocks in is less than my trolley jack can achieve, if there is height enough for the columns of the 2 post lift can you not use a limit switch to prevent contact on the roof? I'm sure you would gain more working height and also free access underneath where it is needed.

Timing belt replaced before or after the drop in MPG?

Your car is under warranty, Skoda will repair the non functioning headlamp control for it to pass the MOT, there is no reason for you to be thinking about bodging it to get through the MOT. The only issue that you have is you are frightened to take your Christmas journey in case you cause an accident and are judged culpable because of your inoperative headlamp height control, I say you have nothing to worry about, your headlamps are set to the correct height as that passed the MOT inspection, the only way that can change requiring you to use the control is if the vehicle is severely laden and/or towing something with excess nose weight.

I fitted a new old stock original suffix all aluminium one piece cylinder so no joint to fail. The feed pipe is part of the cylinder, originally it was all one piece, when they changed to plastic it became two pieces, cheaper to mould and cheaper to transport in a much smaller box. I created a thread on the subject showing photos of the failed 2 piece cylinder, the new 2 piece replacement where they had changed the material of the feed pipe and the aluminium one piece original version that I chose to fit instead of the plastic one that I did not have faith in. It could be that the change to the same material (glass filled nylon) for both parts of the joint means the newer ones wont fail, I was not going to take any chances. Use your eyes and hands to judge what tube diameter and material is correct.

Your choice, you have not dazzled anybody in a year, there is no reason that you should do this time causing an accident. Your vehicle did not fail on headlamp beam alignment.

If the lights are correctly aligned, if you are not carrying a full complement of passengers and/or towing a trailer with too much nose weight your lights will still be correctly aligned on the journey so I would not give it a second thought in your position. How often have you or any forum contributor had to use the headlamp height adjustment? I use mine but the car is frequently laden and towing, sometimes I forget and am alerted by an oncoming vehicle flashing their lights.

That was exactly what I did and how I found the hidden connector branching off to the airbag, it was in the vicinity of the seat occupancy pressure mat.

The relays always operated a light (unreliably) it was only after about 30 years that they started to be fitted with buzzers as the cost of electronic components fell. A proper loom would certainly be quicker than splicing into the wiring of the rear lights and have reliable connections, most splices I have seen were from bad (scotchloks) to appalling (wires stripped and twisted together, maybe a bit of solder then insulation tape) I use glycerine filled telecoms IDC connectors. The big difference between a relay and the loom and controller plus any programming is price, a big big difference for a DIY person spending £100 or so on a towbar and standard electric kit, for those spending North of £800 for a "professional" fitting the extra for the module, loom and programming wont quadruple their costs. My pal had one fitted by Norauto last week on his Ford Kuga, he believes it has the proper controller etc and that something has been programmed because now his reversing camera has a guide line where the towball is which it didn't before when the trailer plug is connected, unfortunately the reversing sensors are not disabled or inhibited so he has warning tones going off when he reverses the trailer, he was met with a blank expression when he took it back, they really did not seem to have any understanding of the functionality or programming. It was not a language thing as he has lived and worked in France since leaving university and is now of retirement age, the most fluent speaker I know.

Did you park it in gear on a hill?

Its no surprise to me, I did the same, its the cheaper and easier job so worth a punt before having to bite the bullet and replace the slave cylinder. Bleeding will resolve the problem (air drawn in though the O ring joint between the slave cylinder and feed pipe) but the frequency of failure will become shorter, at the end I was having to bleed every miles in urban traffic. Bleeding is easy, just open the thumbturn screw and close it as soon as fluid comes out, the air rises to a chamber right under the nipple. Reading back I see that you had already changed the slave cylinder and have now changed the master cylinder, did you pay particular attention to the seal which fits on the end of the rigid pipe which is held in the master cylinder by the spring clip? The old one may have detached and remained in the old cylinder, the new one has to be pressed onto the pipe end with some force until it clips on with a positive action, its very easy to think that it just pushes on the end of the pipe, it sits there quite well but needs to go back further. Of course that part is completely inaccessible and you are working blind. More bleeding will be required with a new master cylinder, the best way is to put a long bleed tube on the nipple and run it up to just above the height of the fluid reservoir, open the bleed nipple and leave it overnight, any air will find its way out through the bleed tube or back up the line through the cylinder, the pedal should be in the upper position, no pumping required.

I dont really understand a lot of what you were trying to say but you will struggle to turn the engine in the way that you describe because even in direct top gear you the torque you are applying is reduced by the final drive ratio, somewhere in the order of one third, in the lower gears as little as one tenth. Be very carefull about turning the TSi engine in a reverse direction as this can cause the timing chain to jump on start up and wreck the engine, dont be tempted to turn the engine back if you have gone too far and dont try your wheel trick in reverse gear. You would have more success pushing the car forwards in top gear, you still have the torque reduction but can apply more force pushing from a standing position that rotating your arms, also you can bump the car to use the inertia. The easiest thing would be to remove the spark plugs.

Handbrake cable unless it has snapped is likely to be a problem with the self adjusting mechanism on one of the rear brake calipers. Have a look at the compensator bracket where the two cables have their adjustment, I bet its over at an angle.

I disagree, it's the drivers responsibility to be in control of the vehicle at all times and to be aware of what is in front, behind, road conditions, upcoming junctions, other vehicles, pedestrians etc and to brake to avoid any collisions, far too many are abdicating control and their own responsibility to the vehicles systems, a good example of that is people who no longer dip their headlights because the car supposedly does that and complain that the people flashing them are not being blinded, they just think that they are because they don't understand that their car has this wonderful system to prevent it.

But if the trailer plug is not plugged in then you are blissful in ignorance (that sounds very harsh, I could not think of a milder way to say it) no trailer lighting and none of the mystical stability systems that people put so much faith in. How do the integrated systems cope with LED trailer lights? I doubt that my relay would either. Most of the visual indicator lamps are never installed by the towbar fitters, too much hassle running a wire forward then behind the dash then drilling a hole in the field of vision which is all but impossible often. The audible ones are fitted at the back for ease, usually behind the rear side trims, when the seats are up and the parcel shelf in place nobody can hear them, I have no seats, the back is open like a van and I can only just hear it.

You will need special bolts and eccentric spacers to ensure that the subframe goes back in exactly the same position unless you like driving a car that crabs, will dive into the kerb or across the road if you let go of the steering wheel, I found that out the very hard way.

Definitely worth doing as it will indeed fail, it does not leak to contaminate the friction material but instead draws in air causing the pedal to remain on the floor and no means of disengaging the clutch. However being an earlier vehicle if it has the one piece aluminium slave cylinder I would stick with it, all the problems started with the 2 piece plastic ones (O ring joint between cylinder and feed pipe), I found a new old stock one to fit to my 2015 Yeti, I don't know what year the changeover occurred.

Thanks for that, every day is a learning day. The absence of the audible tone is my warning that the trailer indicators are not working, it also alerts me to if the trailer brake and rear lights are working because the volt drop from them changes the tone slightly. With the integrated system you do not have parking sensors if you forget to plug in the trailer lead there is nothing to alert you. Did the law actually change or does the bulb monitoring system meet the requirements of the existing law? The now prevalence of LED lighting on trailers must be an issue for both types.

I would not have a lot of faith in them with that conclusion from the contradictory information they have provided. But as always as soon as you engage someone else to do the work on your vehicle you can do little but look on with frustration, its all the worse when you can see how things are going.

You say its free and it works, on what basis do you say that because your measuring block data (presumably VCDS) is contrary to that. Have you tried driving the EGR valve through Output Tests and seeing if it does move when driven from the motor? Doing that while looking at the position sensor data should tell you if the internal gears are stripped or there is a problem with the potentiometer. I cant recall if the stripped gears cause the valve to not move or perhaps the potentiometer to not reflect the movement.

As Llanigraham said but also try coupling something to the towing socket, a trailer board ideally, then use the indicators, you should have an audible or visual cue that the trailer indicators are working, hopefully audible, hopefully sounding like the phantom beep to prove you have correctly identified the cause. Many trailer wiring installations are awful, I would check the connections in the back of the socket, they may be corroded or have pulled out, also the connections where the relay wires are spliced into the rear light wiring. Is your rear washer working? The pipe joint often comes apart in freezing weather and the relays are often placed where the dripping fluid will fall.

They are way way cheaper, I appreciate they do not have the functionality which the integrated systems claim to have but they have no value to me.

Nothing nasty about the modern high impedance towing relays, they are a million miles away from the old type where you had to space coil windings out around a reed switch to tune the detection circuit for the audible indicator warning. Cheap? well yes compared to the manufacturers rip offs which should also be cheap. I do agree that the sound is probably coming from that source, that it is waking up the dash display suggests to me that it is a more expensive version with Canbus communication, the cheap basic ones work faultlessly which could not be said of their predecessors.

Thanks, I thought that might be the case. So Android Auto is normally cabled, is that correct? I'm asking because in time I will change the head unit, there are a few things I dont like, the shatnav that will take you to a field in the middle of nowhere if you choose the centre of a town (it takes the geometric centre of all the dependant communes) the touch screen that sets itself off in cold weather, reversed door open icons (inability to change), are some Android Auto head units already wireless?

It will happen of there is not free play in the pedal linkage but will affect all wheels. I'm pleased the OP has resolved the problem but it must have been as a consequence of the cylinder renewal and not as a result of. I wonder if the other front wheel has a sticking caliper?