J.R.

I think you mean the general consensus about people who paint their calipers. I doubt that those who choose to do so will have a negative opinion about the result or themselves.

Won't a €12 Ali-Express camera do the job or have VAG done something to make you have to go to them? They dont need "coding to the vehicle" they pick up all the commands they use from the canbus signals, reverse gear selected, steering angle sensor etc. What is the benefit of being "registered on the database"? I appreciate that someone wanting to pay to have the work done will not have the same choices but there is a lot of difference between €12 for something discreet & functional that replaces the rear door handle or number plate light and £250, £350 or £520.

If the handle came off in your hand then it is broken, replace it.

I first typed VAG before changing it to Skoda, I had no time to check my info as was going out the door for my first Covid jab, Pfizer mind you, none of that British rubbish

Unfortunately your thoughts and assumptions were not those of Skoda when they designed & manufactured the Yeti. That is to say (kindly) that you are incorrect.

+ 1 to Owatrol oil, I discovered it from this forum, it may even have been yourself. I am on the 3rd renovation of old rusty mobile site huts that have spent their lives on damp muddy building sites since the 70's, the second one being the first I used Owatrol on, it has been outside unprotected on a grass field for a year now right beside the first one I did, that was pre Owatrol & used chemical rust treatment, both had the same crepi finish which I usually use on outside masonry, the first is showing rust stains everywhere and was within no time, not a sign yet on the Owatrol protected one. Those photos are a good example, in fact its recommended for new cast iron garden decorations that are sold with a patinated rusted painted finish if you want to maintain it like that rather than just having a flaky rusty orange thing after a year. It's also quite cheap to buy here in France.

A proper garage roof!!!! I bet they are porous asbestos panels under the plastic membrane. Hats off to you for doing all that in an old school size single garage, I had 15 years of that before building a proper one, I could never go back now, too many tools & equipment there would be no room for a car!

CT cars West Horsley Surrey, £250.75 = 15% off Celtic Tuning price. Fuel economy unchanged, perhaps better if power not used, nothing adverse to report.

Me too, an Ali-Express armrest box was one of the first purchases. The brakes are adequate but not inspiring, I have a trio of unbraked site hut type trailers that I will be using to move my tools & machinery from my UK garage to France, I wanted to have confidence in the vehicle brakes.

The same as my 4wd version with the same power. It limits your ability to upgrade the brakes or makes it a lot more difficult and expensive.

Yours and mine are incompatible without the reprogramming that Wino speaks of, full scale deflection on yours is 240 km/h = 150 mph and mine is 160 mph.

As I said once in 45 years of motoring, until then I had always checked for leakage from within the outer threaded brass core (spit bubble) visually checking for perished rubber (never ever seen) for leaks at the base where its pulled through the rim, I had never considered that the brass core could not be bonded in and yet not leak air when static. It must have been a bad batch but its possible that a car could have had 4 like that fitted during a tyre change.

You are correct Wino, I have the 280mm brakes & bought calipers & discs (320mm?) from a Golf GTi to upgrade but my hub carriers & suspension struts also need changing, mine have the 3 bolt bearing. I could change just the hub carriers as tubular spacers are available for the struts.

I have had old alloys shotblasted, powder coated silver and then lacquered and the tyres never lost any pressure over 20 years, it could be that they were good alloys back then but they were leaking from the beads when I got them. I also had one alloy that would always leak no matter what we did yet you could never see a bubble in a water bath, after about 5 years my CT tester friend finally found the fault by bending the valve stem through a large angle with a soapy water spray, the brass outer valve core was not bonded into the outer rubber but only leaked when deformed, presumably it was happening at high speed. First and only time that I have seen a Schrader valve leak in that way, that wheel had been off & the bead cleaned up &replaced with beadseal countless times before finding the real culprit.

Thanks, I will do that.

I am in France and have VCDS, there is I believe a map on the forum showing the location of VCDS owners who are willing to help other forum members, I am on it (if it still exists) there were not many. I dont know where the OP is but he is welcome to contact me. I believe that the coding will need to be copied from the old unit assuming it is still communicating, the easiest thing would probably be to then connect the new one to the electrical plug to recode it (editted, thats what Langers said), the OP could then ask his garage to fit it pre-coded, be aware that they will still need something like VCDS to bleed the new ABS block. The above assumes that the vehicle can be driven which if the OP is considering going to the UK I guess it must be. The prices quoted and the general insouciance does not surprise me in the slightest. Also I would not believe without question that the fault is the ABS block, they will always diagnose the most expensive part either to make the most money (replacing the reluctor ring or a sensor for example) or as a means of saying "we don't want the job because we dont really know what the fault is" Do you have details of the fault codes recovered? - I think I already know the answer to that one

My Dawes Switchback is 29 years old, I sold my Emelle racer for it, new inner tubes, tyres but only every decade, new chain & then new rear gearset, one STI changer recently which cost me more than the bike did but it is precious to me, probably one set of brake blocks, everything else original. This week I finally resolved the problem of the stripped thread on the headstock that has had me leaning forward to retighten the head bearings every time that I go on a bumpy trail for many years, well at least I hope its resolved, it was a bodge involving removing the washer to gain 2 undamaged threads and some Loctite.

Thanks, the notification took me straight to the post by BNY-SNK without me realising that you had posted before. 12v & not 5v from the ECU duly noted.

Check that the suppy and return pipes have not been reversed on the fuel sender/pick up asssembly, its very easy to do and can cause some very weird problems as the fuel pump has to suck really hard to overcome a non return valve. I can't speculate why that would affect the vehicle on RH bends but definitely worth checking, also remove the sender and clean the filter guaze & check the roll over check valve while you are at it.

A proper old school bike like mine! In fact not even old school by my standards, its the newest bike I have ever owned, when I was a bike mad teenager my father gave me a bike that was owned by a Canadian drifter who was working in his factory before moving on, it was probably 30 years old with rod pull brakes etc, me and my friends thought it hilarious, had never seen anything so old and called it a tramps bike because the guy had been rough sleeping to save money. I bet when the kids see me now on my newest ever bike they laugh just as much and say the same thing A very steep hill that I have taken 3 times this week on various length routes defeated me once and I had to push the bike up it, I had hit 50km just before it, the very next day still tired from the 62km ride I hit it again after 22km and had no real problem riding up it.

In which case whoever may have been playing with it may have shunted the contact elsewhere or broken the circuit dependant on whether the contact monitored by the ECU is N/O or N/C. The next thing to do is get a wiring diagram, find the colours of the 2 pairs (I assume) of wires & specifically the one for the contact monitored by the ECU, with the plug disconnected you should see I believe 5v across them, if not then check the voltage of each conductor to battery negative and also the resistance across them. If zero resistance then it has been shunted somewhere, try driving the car and braking very gently while keeping your foot on the throttle, after a very brief delay the engine power should cut, if it doesn't then the ECU sensing wires have been tampered with, either shunted or cut dependant on whether the contact on the switch is N/O or N/C.

Replace the brake switch, there are 2 sets of contacts, one that speaks to the body control module to operate the brake lights, the other to the ECU to tell it to ignore any throttle input. People sometimes shunt the 2nd contact to allow them to left foot brake, your car sounds like it has been modified & tuned so its a strong possibility. If the ECU records the engine being used for hundreds of hours without the brakes being used it will generate the implausible signal fault code. Not sure why you have been mucking about chnaging other sensors and looking at the wiring unless you thought that the brake switch must be working because the brake lights do.

A great find I have bookmarked it but the dials wont be suitable for me wanting to add km/h to a MPH speedometer, looking at the images it appears that the calibration is different mine having 80 MPH at the 12 O clock position.

That is for something else, I have used it on wheels that had a large silver centre plastic insert hiding the wheelnuts, also for removing the towing eye covers, others have said it is to access the rear light bulbs, it can at a pinch & with lots of struggling remove the wheelnut caps but the correct tool as shown does it positively without any fuss.

Probably, its in another country that wont allow its citizens to return from Covid infested places like here without lots of hoop jumping, costly covid tests and quarantine so I am going from my (very poor) memory.