J.R.

Fascinating and thanks for that As I have the airbags in the A pillar like the photo, and I think that there was one in the B pillar (it certainly has the logo) then I conclude that mine does not have the curtain airbag system. That undeployed airbag in the roof looks scarey, it makes me think of the inflatable auto-pilot in the Airplane movie I am on intimate terms with the steering wheel, passenger dashboard and drivers knee airbags having replaced them all, the latter one I had in and out twice during the weekend to remove the clutch pedal and cylinder.

Do you mean that when you step off the throttle when changing gear that the revs are slow (or slower than before) to die down? That will be a function of the emissions control system. Otherwise it sounds like you are trying to do full throttle gearchanges The clutch pedal switch is built into and comes as part of the master cylinder, it can however be removed from the cylinder by releasing a clip like on the wiring connectors, you would need to remove the cylinder to do this anyway. Fast gearchanges are not possible on these vehicles, the clutch torque limiter engages the clutch slowly even if you do release the pedal quickly, the revs will not rise until the clutch pedal is sensed to have returned fully, if the latter happens before the former you get clutch slip, that is VAG's way of limiting the torque

My A pillars definitely had individual airbags. The previous MK2 Octavia had airbags in the upper outer side of the seat bolsters, I think the Yeti has one in the B pillar but it could be over the roof, there are no signs of the headlining having rupture points to allow the deployment, on the moulded dashboard its invisible, it would also be in the fibreboard roof moulding but for the fabric covering.

My mistake, I thought the curtain airbags were the ones in the A or B pillars. My Yeti has an SRS logo on the B pillar trim, I'm sure when I removed them to replace the seatbelt pyrotechnics that the airbag was behind it and not above the roof lining. Certainly when I pushed the fishrod (a straightened coathanger that has been in my toolbox since 1992 when I started my alarm company!) through there was no obstruction there.

Spot on! And as for leading to much more expensive damage, to what exactly? Certainly not the vehicle and the extraction pump will be the usual cheap disposable tat of todays world so not that either.

There is no risk, anyone with an ounce of common sense would see where to run the cable so as not to impede the airbag were it to deploy in an collision or rollover.

Its item 26 on this diagram but the drawing of it means nothing to me as I dont have your vehicle, hopefully you will recognise it. https://nemigaparts.com/cat_spares/etka/skoda/oct/753/885600/

Having done both I would fish it through the roof liner every time now. I have had the A, B and C pillar trims off two Octavias and a Yeti several times and it holds no fear for me, people freak out a bit regarding the curtain airbags but they have no reason to. Even if I were still happy to grovel around on my knees & were able to focus in the gloom the cable threading is so much easier at high level.

You are a chicken just like me I definitely feel more secure having it and were it to fail or were I to have problems that might be related to it then its very easy to disconnect it and reconnect the original loom connectors. But my EGR had not failed, it was a pre-emptive measure and I have not fitted the blanking plate, reverting to stock should not cause me any problems. I can see that the DPF is getting less ash build up from the measured values but unfortunately it appears that the regens are triggered by the estimated value and so are as frequent as they ever were, I dont like the extra fuel that is consumed or the heat generated, I am also concerned that the estimated oil ash residue is rising faster than it really is because the ECU believes that the EGR is being solicited frequently and that the ECU will decide I need a new DPF when the measured differential pressure is still well within limits.

Was that a VAG part number then? If there is also a part number for the torx head screws on the later airboxes they would be a better bet if you are intending replacing all of them like Ahenners appears to have done.

1st world problem. Patience means rather more than 5 days.

And women also Or equally men. My father used to say "plenty more fish in the sea my son!" Well that didn't turn out to be true for the real fish did it!

AG revision is the latest VAG part which has the pushrod firmly retained in the piston, pattern parts are likely to be A revision, I have had 2 new A rev pattern part cylinders in the last fortnight where the pushrod came away in my hands. I dont know where the particles come from, probably heat from the DPF degrading the piston seals or maybe the plastic cylinder body, I know they are magnetic because the toroidal magnet at the front of the piston (for the clutch position sensor) had plasticky particles stuck all over it, any one of them was big enough to block the bleed valve return orifice. Also the fluid bled from the clutch was black and full of particles, the braking system I had flushed through with fresh fluid a few months ago but not the clutch. Do your own searching as to why VAG consider that its preferable for the clutch to slip rather than a driver being able to do a quick start off the line (I think its crazy) and you will no doubt find a sectional drawing and explanation of how it works, I am not going to draw one for you even if I were capable of putting it on the computer. There is no documentation because to my knowledge I am possibly the first person to have done the forensic analysis of a failed cylinder and of the pattern part ones and the latest VAG revision and to have worked out why so many people have a clutch pedal not return and get shafted by their garage playing parts bingo with their money. Plenty of people in the racing or tuning fraternity have discovered that the bleed block/torque limiter is a chocolate teapot however rather than sharing that it can be drilled out for no cost they would rather sell you a billet machine aluminium one for a kings ransom. This thread may enlighten you:

Patience and warm weather.

You have a partial blockage in the clutch bleed block AKA clutch torque limiter which was also the reason that the clutch pedal went half way to the floor, you did not need either of the cylinders replacing although the new master cylinder being an AG revision is worthwhile as it would prevent air being pulled into the system if the clutch pedal is manually pulled back up. The bleed block has no restriction when depressing the clutch pedal (a valve comes off its seat) but has only a tiny microbore for fluid being returned to the master cylinder when the engaging the clutch, the particle will have stopped the return flow causing the clutch slip. Sadly it sounds like another gearbox out job to now replace the clutch, make sure the bleed block and clutch piping is flushed (the fluid will come out black) and preferably that the mechanic drills out the centre of the bleed block to 4.5mm diameter.

I think that mine had either been cleaned before or had done a lot of motorway miles, it will be very interesting to see how much crud a year of lockdown journeys has added, I have now fitted an EGR emulator/simulator so there will be no more crud but I should remove any that has built up since my last clean. the car drove so much better afterwards and the fuel economy increased by about 12%!

The mileage would reveal far more than the age, how many has it done? Mine looked like that at 82K miles, the emissions fix had been done but I dont know how long or how many miles before. I have been meaning to expose it again so I can put an endoscope down to see if the clag had gone as far as the intake ports & valves, I have done 10K since the clean up so it will be interesting to see how much has returned & if I need to clean it again after a year.

With the emulator the EGR is umplugged but the ECU sees the emulator and thinks that it is still in circuit, when it commands the EGR it gets the expected output from the potentiometer but from the emulator, the second thing it does is to falsify the MAF sensor output to show the expected drop in airflow. If you have left the EGR connected and blocked the pipe and its not going into limp mode, if it doesn't do so on a proper fast run then for whatever reason you dont need the emulator and I may have wasted the money on mine if my engine were to have responded in the same way. I dont usually blindly accept recieved wisdom and was going to try what you did to prove that the emulator really was needed, however my experience on the much simpler PD engine with a blanking plate was that it went into limp mode and I had to drill a small hole in the blanking plate to let some EGR gases pass through, I ended up opening it progressively to around 4mm before the engine stopped going into limp mode. I suspect on your brief test drives the EGR has not been commanded.

No it is working fine, the EGR is disconnected so cannot function but from your experience it seems that I may have been able to achieve that by blocking the pipe, everything I had read said that it would result in the engine going into limp mode but yours hasn't so far. When I have time I will reconnect the original ECU connection to the MAF sensor i.e. stopping the emulator from changing the sensor output and see if the engine goes into limp mode.

Is she a very nervous jerky driver by any chance?

I am assuming that this is not costing you big money and you are going down the route of dedicated wiring, coding & all that malarkey for a bike rack & that he will be fitting a by-pass relay. I'm afraid there is no reasoning with someone that prefers to bust his gut stripping out interiors time after to do a lash up ring terminal connection direct to the battery when there is a perfectly adequate power supply close by in the boot. It is the auxiliary socket but good luck with convincing the fitter to use it.

Changing a burned fuse will not resolve the problem of what caused it to burn or the consequences of it which you are suffering. You need to bend the contacts in the fuseboard to make a good connection or if they have also overheated and lost their spring temper replace them and probably the board moulding if it has melted.

Huffing and puffing and burning their house down? You havn't said how long you have been waiting for the refund.

I would believe what a mechanic told me over what a service receptionist said but that aint saying much

Possibly it wont go out of parameters except at higher revs. In any case give it a try and do a scan for codes, maybe following the recieved wisdom cost me £99 for nothing Thinking about it, we think your EGR valve was stuck open, maybe during your test drive you did not get to the conditions where the EGR valve would be commanded and the ECU would expect to see a drop in mass air flow, possibly engine not up to temperature?