J.R.

Nothing showing for that E-bay number. @KenONeill That textured finish has not come from a dipped coating, I actually have a can of genuine Plastidip from years back that I used for coating tool handles etc, probably gone off now, I know they now sell lots of stupid aerosols under their name which are nothing to do with Plastic Dipping, I'm not sure if the bumper insert had been done with one of them or it was used as a generic term. In any case its an excellent match for the OE moulded finish and I would like to have some of the product if it was done from a spray can and not an industrial process.

The master cylinder will require replacing with the latest AF revision genuine Skoda part, pattern ones are copies of earlier revisions where the same thing can occur. The clutch bleed block AKA torque limiter will also need removing and flushing to remove any debris that will be stopping or impeding the fluid from returning to the master cylinder, the system should be throughly flushed before doing this and thoroughly bled afterwards. If you are not 100% sure that a genuine VAG revision AF cylinder has been fitted and the problem recurs under no circumstance should you pull the pedal up if it sticks push it down & bring your foot back up very slowly, it may take several goes, dont be tempted to pump it quickly. I am surprised that its happened on a new vehicle but a small particle could have entered the system at any time of the manufacture or assembly of any of the components. When I wrote the above I had not appreciated it was a new vehicle so the words about pattern parts & revision numbers will not apply, I have left them in case anyone with an older car searches and finds the thread.

I can't help but am really impressed with the surface finish of whatever the spray coating is that has been used to hide/repair the bumper scuffs. I realise that it has not stood the test of time but could anyone advise what it is? It's something that I would like to add to my armoury.

Get the cat microchipped.

Alternatively make the MPH readings on the disc with white Letraset.

Maybe the OP and I could swap speedo discs with each other? Perhaps Misse can confirm that the 12 O clock position on his speedometer equates to just under 130kph? I dont mine being the guinea pig to see how easy or hard it is to get the disc out of the binnacle, I have already removed the binnacle to replace the dashboard and I have dismantled a MK1 Octavia one in the past.

You have no way of knowing that the change to the small MPH digital display is not permanant unless you RTFM , the garage probably doesn't either or doesn't care, as you have paid them to make the changes I expect they will sign the form after someone has ticked the boxes for them and sign a pre-prepared letter. I really dont think anybody is going to be able to make the changes that you require in an irreversible manner and declare that to be so. Ask yourself what a motor trader who imports vehicles would do? It sounds like a backside covering paper chase and the VCA dont want to actually meet the great unwashed and inspect their vehicles, that is exactly what happens now in France since it has all become dématérialisé

I had a Celtic tuning remap done on my 2.0 TDi diesel engine, it was done by one of their agents rather than their mobile fitters and as they had a promotion on at the time it was £50 cheaper. I believe it is the manufacturers map, it certainly feels like it, nothing untoward to report, if it is the manufacturers map then the peak power is less than they claim but I never take much notice of claims, it drives well and gives me the power & torque where I wanted it.

I have just racked up 220 kms in the last week with a day off on Wednesday, mostly trails, very few roads, 62.5 km yesterday, 31 today, all within the 10km as the crow flies radius that we are allowed to exercise in, its very hilly terrain around me, yesterday was 450m of elevation gain, today 320m.

You are looking at the plastic wheelnut covers and not the wheelnuts, one of them will have a larger diameter, possibly the top one looking at the photo, that will have the locking wheelnut beneath it. You should also find a black plastic U shaped clip tool for removing the wheelnut covers.

Sounds to me that you have made the right analysis.

The French seem to think that its Uber cool to wear T shirts with slogans in English most of which are complete and utter gibberish, so if you change the ending of your question from "read" to "understand" the market is already cornered. The most upsetting example I have seen was in a Hypermarket, a pink childs T shirt emblazoned with lareg lettering saying "Daddies little f**k toy" and I have seen families out walking with the youngest child wearing them

Having read the explanation from Chimaera a second time to let it further sink in I can say that had I had that knowledge before I would not have bought the EGR emulator but instead spent the money on having the "emissions fix" software rolled back. Understanding now how the EGR valves get stuck when commanded beyond their restricted operating range, and also how the cheat software made the engine run on a favorable emissions map when on a rolling road there would have been the possibility for EGR failure if an owner had their car rolling road tested!!!

Chimaera, thankyou somuch for that comprehensive posting, it has filled in all the gaps in my knowledge that I have been trying to get info on for ages. You make a very good point about the Lambda value going over 1.0 and the subsequent increase in fuel delivery, I will reflect on that and the possible consequences. Having scrutinised the measuring blocks for DPF parameters frequently I have come to the conclusion that whilst passive regens no doubt are effective as witnessed by the falling DPF differential pressure after a long motorway run the active regens are just as frequent, it seems, and I am quite convinced of this, that they are triggered by the calculated soot loading and not the measured soot loading. My concern is that the oil ash volume/mass (VCDS keeps changing the measuring unit) is a calculated value and even if my DPF is as clean as a whistle with no pressure drop when that calculated value reaches its threshold then it will be game over for what might be a perfectly healthy and functional DPF. Do you have any knowledge or opinion on this? In any case my vehicle like most during the confinement is only doing shorter journeys and rarely gets an autoroute blast.

I dont believe that there is an airbag on the door panel or in the door on your vehicle, if there was there would be a warning logo moulded on the area where it would deploy. I believe that you have one on the seat back side bolster and you may have an impact sensor within the door assembly probably on the crash beam. Any airbag system component disconnected while the ignition is on/with battery not disconnected will result in a MIL light which can only be reset with a fault code reader, if you know that you have to disconnect something like the steering wheel airbag to replace the clockspring or the disable switch to remove the glovebox then disconnect the battery first and dont reconnect until the components have been reconnected.

Mine was good at 110hp but definitely lacked power even when not towing, it is now remapped to allegedly 184 bhp, it has a very wide torque band and good power and I'm looking forward to seeing the difference next time that I tow my big air brake site hut trailer.

My vehicle was registered here using the UK MOT and by a quirk of the system its now valid for 2 years So I wont be putting the vehicle in for a CT test for another year and some months, as the tester is a friend I dont have any concerns. My speedo is as above, MPH only markings on the analogue display, I have a small KPH readout in the maxidot but have not fund a way to increase this to the large size which seemingly can be done for a MPH display, if anyoen knows how I would love to know. I'm not sure if I have done anything regarding the rear foglight yet but again even if I cannot switch sides or have both working it wont be a problem for my CT tester pal. But for the cost of the immobiliser programming the OP and I could swap instrument clusters For the OP, are you sure that the maxidot display will not be acceptable? After all I have used battery powered bicycle speedos to get kit cars through the SVA test and the settings are not fixed on them. Another option might be a sticker for the analogue speedo with the MPH markings, you could make one using Letraset (if it still exists) and remove it once you are registered. Who ensures the compliance? Do you have to undergo an SVA test or is it simply the MOT tester, if the latter then find a more amenable one, I could recommend a UK MOT tester friend (can you see a pattern here, ) but you have not given your location so may be miles away from you.

I did that on my Galaxy as I would left foot brake while keeping the throttle open when going over speed bumps laden with all my tools, it reduced the bouncing. All was well but after several months a fault code was generated (cant recall if there was a MIL light) which said "brake light switch implausible signal), it had decided that travelling 5000 miles without the ECU seeing the brakes being applied was in their words "implausible", that was back in 1995, the systems don't miss a thing these days.

How do you know that there is very little vacuum, have you fitted a vacuum guage? I would first start by cranking the engine with the palm of my hand blocking the intake to the throttle body, if there is no vacuum then do a compression test & if that is OK start searching for air leaks but you would probably hear them. It is possible that the throttle butterfly is held open. From memory the G65 sensor is the aircon high side pressure sensor.

Not having EGR functioning will surely increase the life of the DPF rather than decrease it? Who told you that it would reduce the DPF life and what was their rationale? Recieved wisdom is that vehicles that have had the emissions fix overwork the EGR causing its premature failure and also reduce the life of the DPF, it was on that basis that I fitted an EGR emulator/simulator to avod future problems, if I am wrong and am in fact making a problem for myself with the DPF then I would like to know so please respond. There is another option missing from your list which I think may well be the case with your vehicle. The broken EGR remains in place, and a blanking plate has been fitted on the pipe joint at the front of the cylinder head and an EGR emulator like mine has been fitted to make the ECU believe that the EGR's are still happening, it could also have had the emissions fix rolled back. If I am correct then you will not be able to detect it via interrogating the ECU with a bluetooth dongle or VCDS as the ECU believes that the EGR system is functioning due to the falsified output of the mass airflow sensor. You can detect it physically by tracing the wiring back from the MAF sensor connector, if there is a second identical sensor in line about 6" back probably hidden under the air duct then it has an emulator/simulator fitted.

My kayak fits in the back with the rear seats in the normal upright position, at a pinch I can even carry it on my bicycle. And I think its older than me as well! Its a Klepper! I usually transport it with the front and rear parts of the frame assembled and the skin in its carry bag, it went in the back of the Octavia like that but not sure about the Yeti, I got fed up with fully assembling it by the water because it always drew a gawping crowd making stupid comments.

They are indeed very good, the lack of rear axle overhang makes a big difference.

No labour for the fitting and a contribution towards the oils etc is actually a good result if the garage are otherwise good guys and you want to continue using them, it allows them to save face. I know many wont agree with my sentiments but were they to insist on the garage shouldering their responsabilities they would end up paying the labour at another garage and losing the future service of the good (most of the time) guys. Everybody makes a mistake at some time, they have as good as admitted that they did.

I believe that the ratios are all the same as they simply have to be the same as the front transfer box, the various front differential ratios take care of the various gearing configurations for the different engines. What will be different on the differentials will be the haldex coupling and its controller, MK4, MK5 etc (if I have got that right) I got the part number for mine from 7 zap and all the ones that I saw on E-bay for later vehicles had the same part number, its visible on a plate or a sticker.

How many miles has the vehicle done since the last oil change and over what time period? The answers might be Yes, Yes, but Llanigrahams final point remains inviolable.