J.R.

There will be a compressor shut down code which will tell you exactly why the aircon is not running, you have not said whether the aircon is cooling, I am assuming not as the reading from the high side pressure sensor is what triggers the fans to run. Did the person check the system pressure static or while cooling? If no codes then there is a possibility of the shear plate having failed or the alloy hub stripped so the compressor shaft is not actually turning. VCDS will tell you all the above. Editted, writing the above prompted me to go and check my system pressures using VCDS, I had recharged my system once a year ago then had to do it a second time and thought there may have been a leak, all looks OK, it was 18°c outside, the static system pressure was 4.7 bar and when the aircon put on full cold & high fan setting it went up to 12.7 bar before stabilising at around 10 bar & 28% cooling fan actuation, evaporator output temperature was about 3° but would have gone colder. I havn't looked at my temperature and pressure charts but the above seems in the right ballpark from memory. This is just to give you an idea of just a tiny bit of what can be monitored on the HVAC control module using VCDS, obviously in my case there were no shut off codes unless I switched the ventilator fan or the AC switch off.

If his lips were moving then anything you heard was bull****! If they weren't then you imagined it, in which case there is a far greater chance (albeit very remote) of it being true

Not suprising given the remnants of the bearing shell backing material in the sump, I had a tiny bit of hope that it might have been a thrust bearing spat out but no longer. Terminal I'm afraid.

Its a project that I am about to start, I was going to make one of the wooden boxes with the forward hinged flap for a raised reclining position, this has given me some other thoughts about an interim measure. If you look at the photos you will see that the top part of the 2 main mattresses are totally unsupported, unacceptable given the price and the little extra it would have cost them to do it properly.

I am teetotal and sensitive to racism.

This site is rapidly becoming one recommended for cryptographers.

A 4X4 has a less boot depth, a full width spare wheel would put it above the loading level, thats the case for the Yeti at least, maybe other vehicles have deep enough boots to start with.

I have taken exception with him before but on reflection only when I was on the recieving end of the blunt way he puts things but when its others getting the good news I find it entertaining! I should be ashamed to say that but I'm not because what he was saying was not incorrect. He certainly knows his stuff though and I can't think of an example where he has been wrong, I think he works in the trade and sees a lot of our vehicles perhaps not hands on and I reckon he has had to suffer a lot of fools, he certainly is not defensive of the motor trade and makes me laugh with his description of them.

Sounds like bull***t to me, with a new EGR not leaking away the vacuum the turbo should work correctly, running correctly within its limits is not going to "tip it over" I would be looking at ways of blanking off the EGR both from recirculating the gases and also plugging the vaccum line, on my PD I had to drill a small hole in the blanking plate but there might be a simulateur/emulator available like I have fitted to my CR engine which would allow it to be deleted completely without triggering fault codes, they only cost about £100.

I had 5 speed boxes on my last two 1.9 TDi Skodas and a 6 speed on this 2.0 CR one, I dont agree that the 6 speed is a 5 speed with a longer top gear, granted top gear with the diff ratio is taller but the gaps between the intermediate gears are closer as first gear remains pretty much the same. I dont like having 6 gears on a turbo-diesel engined vehicle but when mine was an asthmatic 108hp it really needed them, it was very nippy in the lower intermediate gears but was terrible for mid range overtaking, in fact it felt so nippy that you would misjudge the over 50mph overtaking distance. Now with it remapped I would really prefer a 5 speed box for the road, the track is a different story. None of the TDi vehicles with standard gearing is ever going to run out of revs in top gear no matter how much they are boosted and thats on the road, on the track the Nurburgring aside they would not get anywhere near it. Ken, the OP was talking about track days and not racing within a restricted formula.

Not so, were that the case race cars would still have 2 or 3 speed gearboxes. You select the gear ratios and number thereof according to the power developed at the new RPM when upshifting each gear, poor description and it could be with a wider torque band that the benefits from an additional gear might be marginal. If the vehicle runs goes beyond the max power RPM on the fastest straight its the final drive ratio (or tyre size) that is changed. The advice you gave above is relevant for a road car but not for a race car.

The wiper spindle would not be central. Looks like a bodge, as if someone has cut the trim panel in half to remove it or replace it easier and glued an overlapping fillet onto one half, I doubt that VAG would do that but nothing surprises me these days. In any case if my theory is correct it would only be bonded to one side to allow removal.

I used some conductive paint probably 40 years ago, I bet I still have it somewhere It worked well but as would be expected was a higher resistance than the printed element, as such on initial demisting the repaired bits would clear first & then the rest of the screen and the undamaged unrepaired elements would demist quicker than the repaired ones. A worthwhile repair though.

You can buy retractable covers on Ali-Express but they are a standard fitment on Yetis made in the Far East and from the looks of things the rear side panels are very different and incorporate housings and a locking/release mechanism to accommodate it, I think it would be difficult to adapt, that and the cost of delivery (the cover price was reasonable) put me off. On my first Sierra Estate I made a retractable luggage cover from a roller blind, it was saggy, & certainly did not look OE but did the job of hiding that I was carrying tools & equipment in an otherwise standard lookig family vehicle.

Thanks for that, I had made my chrome grille black by flatting it with a scotchbrite buffing wheel on my bench grinder, then a satin black followed by clear 2 pack epoxy but it wasn't as durable as I thought and 10K miles later there are loads of stonechips showing silver. I will definitely try the Plastidip next after stripping off the paint, if it doesn't last then at least I can peel it off easily and nothing will be lost. Do people find that as a rubberised finish it is resistant in heavy stone chip areas like a grille surround?

Yes they do look that way, nobody has sat in mine yet! I have them reclined to close off the gap. The solid parcel shelf is the only thing that I dont like about the Yeti, I prefer a retractable cover like the MK2 Octavia, can be retracted for tall loads and is easily removed for carrying long tall loads and will always fit in down the side or on the top of the load, when I have loaded the rear of the Yeti with materials a couple of times I thought I was going to have to leave it behind. Mind you compared to the Octavia estates the carrying capacity is much reduced and if I know before leaving I prefer to remove the rear seats and the parcel shelf, it was never necessary in the Octavia, the squabs could be easily unclipped allowing the backrests to create a full length flat loading platform, the squabs took up very little room.

The battery is foutu for sure but dont condemn the alternator until you have checked the charging voltage with the engine running.

I prefer apples.

Who do they think would want blue teeth?

I'm bored so I will try again, looking carefully at the photo the seat squabs are in the rearmost position. Yes it does fit but the rear seat squabs need to go forward one click from the rearmost reclined position.

I am guessing that the rear seats need moving forward or at least the backrests inclined to allow the parcel shelf to slide down the gap, my seats are pushed back tight against it to reduce road and transmission noise. I tried removing, reversing and stowing the parcel shelf last night and I could not even get it into the rear of the car in its reversed position whichever way I angled it, with the seats forward I could but its a long way from being the simple lift off & stow if you have tall luggage that I had expected it to be, with a variofloor I dont have much height.

I am still suffering and its looking like the root cause of my problem may be other than the defaults that I have already rectified. It seems to be set off by high revs rather than temperature, my engine will rev much higher after the remap than before although I never use it, I gave it one acceleration run through 3rd & 4th gear hitting peak revs & am back with the intermittent jelly clutch pedal. I think that the pressure plate is causing fore and aft oscillation of the release bearing at high revs and pushing fluid back, the modified bleed block could be making it worse. When the wind drops the original unmodified one will be going back on, this is the second maybe 3rd time as much as I relish a challenge and enjoy getting to the bottom of a problem this is beginning to wear me down, I need to have confidence in the vehicle for it will soon (I hope) be used for towing a heavy laden trailer for several cross channel house removal journeys. I might have to bite the bullet and remove the transmission & replace the clutch & DMF, something I dont want to do unless I am sure they are faulty. Crankshaft end float could also be an explanation, unlikely I think on a VAG engine but I need a helper to rule it out.

From reading the numerous posts on this forum the above is a very good description of precisely what is happening, systems working randomly or not at all, manufacturers fobbing off owners, cars rejected and then sold as an ex demonstrator to the next pigeon, they now dont even have to bother giving the cars to family members or fleet operators, hire car companies etc to put 5k miles & 3 months on them like they always have, the mug punters pay for that priveledge.

The derailleur has taken a knock & displaced to the outside, if it looks out of alignment then you should carefully try to twist it back to the correct position, otherwise adjust the stops and also the shifter cable. I dont like the twist grip selectors because any change in the cable adjustment will affect the alignment in all gears, on my STI changer its still a manual selection like an old school racer from my youth but with the addition of a ratchet and an upshift lever that releases several clicks of the ratchet at a time so I can always get the perfect alignment like I could in my youth.

You have either replaced one of the fuses in the wrong location, put a smaller capacity fuse in place of the ignition fuse or possibly blown the correct fuse through the initial surge current. Look at the fuse diagram in your manual or if you are lucky the printed card in the fuse box, be aware that it may be a mirror image, and check the relevant fuses.