J.R.

And I wont even realise that it has not arrived to claim a refund, looking back through my Ebay purchase history I see that i paid for and did not recieve a genuine plastic film carbon fibre lookalike rear bumper protector for my car 18 months ago. I would not be seen dead with such a thing, I dont drink so cant blame being drunk, someone must have hacked my account!!!

I think all this nonsense started after I had left the UK, I reckon the last time that I bought road tax was 2003, possibly 2004, I dont recall their being bands and some vehicles costing more than others, I dont recall it being a criteria for me although come to think of it my bike engined Caterham with an 1100cc engine did have cheaper road tax so my memory is not so good. I dont think that back then the full rate was punitive and it certainlt did not influence my buying decisions, I had had a 2l Petrol Galaxy and then a 1.9 TDi Alhambra & my memory is telling me that the road tax was £125 pa, can anybody enlighten me as to what the rates were back then please? Because £150 today sounds really cheap 15 years after. Back then fully comp car insurance for me was about the same price, I dont think that has gone up much either unless you remain with an insurer and let them shaft you with increases year on year. OTOH a neighbour told me how much it would cost these days for road tax on an older vehicle, my 95 2.0 Petrol Galaxy for instance, I was gobsmacked, his wifes little Japanese hatchback (petrol automatic, small engine) is costing him £300 per year, what do older vehicles cost?

Its the tax on first registration, usually we dont pay any more until we sell and buy another vehicle & if its second hand & registered then the tax is lower but still hefty, that said I think for the most polluting vehicles there is now also an annual malus to pay. First registration does not mean new, if you import a second hand vehicle say from the UK where someone will already have paid their dues that €12500 will still have to be paid, also from January vehicles from the UK are subject to import duties plus 20% TVA the UK no longer being an EU country. There are a lot of newish Range Rovers etc still tooling around on UK plates which should already have been registered, the owners are going to get a great shock.

Unclip the connector before unscrewing the lid, you can get more purchase that way, using the thumb one side pull the clip inwards with the index fingernail while pulling upwards. You can get the cap up enough with the plug connected to visually check the contents & level.

I ordered something, cant even recall what it was called, from Ali-Express, some generic Chromecast thing I think, not arrived yet.

Have a VCDS scan done.

That is two questions, which one do you want an answer to?

Its taking the weight of the roof bars which are rated for 75kg but will take many times that, a helicopter if you are Top Gear, the roof rails transfer the weight to the roof via 4 point loads so an evenly distributed load in a roof bag will not be a problem, it will carry as much as a roof rack, much more if evenly spread but not advised. Your problem will be rubbing and I think the rubber might even make it worse. If ever I need to use my roof bag on the car it will be on top of a sheet of plywood supported by the roof rails.

You have it set to instantaneous fuel consumption and not average fuel consumption, you need one click up or down.

I have one that I bought from a rédérie (car boot sale) as it was dirt cheap, it was as an emergency measure to protect stuff if ever I had to store things outside, I would only use it on the roof in extremis and for a very short journey, I would have no worry about weight if it was evenly distributed but would expect it to destroy the paintwork in very short order even with a rubber sheet, in fact probably more so with that than the nylon unless you meant having the sheet inside.

All the parts are available, yours will probably only need an oil seal, circa £3000 sounds about right This is for my transfer box, a later model year than yours but you will be able to go back to select the right model year and then forward again, its under the front suspension section and not gearbox. https://skoda.7zap.com/en/cz/yeti/yet/2015-779/4/409-409041/ Part number 6 or 9.

I have also recently bought a pick set like yours but a long handled one, before I was using a sheet metal scribe to clear out the recesses in those fasteners or anything similar, it does indeed make a big difference and having a choice of dedicated pick tools has made an even bigger difference, I dont know how I lived without them for so long, same goes for the plastic trim removal lever tool sets.

TPS or even a main dealer is often cheaper than Superskoda and then you definitely know that you are getting OEM parts, in fact the times I have checked Superskoda for prices TPS have always been cheaper.

Loss of ABS potentially fatefull! - I must have been really lucky to not have been killed driving the scores of non ABS equipped cars I owned in the past, and that was when I drove like the road was my personal racetrack. My ABS triggered the other day, I had pulled out to overtake 2 vehicles & while passing the first I saw that the front one was indicating to turn left into a side road across my bows, my error but compounded by having a RHD car in a LHD country, anyway it was the first time in several months, maybe even longer, that the ABS had cut in. In the late 80's I had Sierra XR4x4's as company cars, my first ever ABS equipped drives, as the roads were then still my personal racetrack the ABS would cut in at least 4 times on my 20 minute drive to work on a dry road I have a warning light now to tell me if the ABS is not functioning, just as well because I need it, the fault light that is & not the ABS.

My mistake, now I can see what I was looking at rather than what I thought I was looking at its very clear to me, the rounded sheet steel seat frame looked like black neoprene on top of two distorted blocks of fibreboard.

Quite right too, if the spanner was not worth adding to your toolbox (Snap On etc) then he amateurs should not be entrusted with your vehicle If ever you want to buy a cheap Snap On 10mm combination spanner find someone that works at laundry that does the overalls for garages, its their number one find.

That aint steel in the photo!

Looking forward to hearing that side when you can speak about it without compromising your case. I had a horrible feeling your answer regarding switching off the system would be like that.

Keep it in case you need to do an emergency cash machine withdrawal but have forgotten your card

I dont brake test HGV's And in fairness none of them here are stupid (or fast) enough to tailgate.

I hope that you find the right garage, they are all wrong uns around here I found to my cost with the O ring leak, its cost me a lot to become equipped but it has been worth it. Flammable is one thing, explosive is much worse, someone will take the can off your hands, maybe even the garage to give to someone who refuses their services.

As someone who frequently resorts to brake testing tailgaters here in France (they are a real problem) but who is also concerned with the rise in use of dashcams one day soon I will come unstuck, in those circumstances being able to blame a driver aid system could be a big advantage!!!!

The weight given in the VAG spec is the weight of R134a needed to allow the pump to perform to its specified rating, when i am topping up I have no way of knowing what weight remains in the system so I rely on the guages, I continue filling until the high side reaches where it should be (AC set to min temp with fans on high) according to the ambient temperature, its very hit or miss. A refrigerant gas with a lower molecular weight could possibly get the system up to full pressure and operating to specification with a charge of only 168g but that does sound just like butane gas. Also they dont mention that you will never discharge the full contents of a can into a system and the higher the system pressure gets the more partially filled cans you have to throw away creating your own personal hole in the ozone layer while doing so as they are the pierce to open type just like Camping Gaz. And if you are filling a system that is not under vacuum not only will you get even less of the can contents in (the OP will probably need 3 cans) but will be mixing the probable butane gas with air to make a lovely explosive mixture. I also question whether "compatible with R134a" actually means it can be mixe with R134a safely or otherwise. To the OP, take a selfie of your eyebrows before you start so you will have an image to reproduce with a marker pen afterwards

It sounds like butane gas hence the eyebrows reference. Seriously be very wary of filling your vehicle with this unknown allegedly R134a compatible yet not a greenhouse gas, the only one I can find which could fit the bill, would be cheap enough for them to sell, that has a lower molecular weight (although I dont believe the 168g = 453g) would be R600A butane gas, purer than Camping Gaz but every bit as inflammable. There is a reason why they are not saying what it is.

I can understand you wanting to reject the car and having no confidence in the system even if it is supposedly repaired in case it happens again etc. What I am struggling with is that you wont drive the car and your partner refuses to get in it with the system switched off. I believe that you deserve a refund, if you bought the car for and/or paid extra for these systems you cannot be expected to forego the use of them, if you buy another car would you want these systems again or would you avoid them?