J.R.

Thanks, I dont have the sensor for auto-lights, I will check when I next drive my car.

The idle speed should be +/- 850 rpm, difficult to see the difference as the dial marking is at 800rpm but 1000rpm is usually during a DPF regeneration.

But thanks for the following: My 170 used to begin active regens (given the right conditions) when either the measured or the calculated figure met a threshold, which IIRC was somewhere in the region of 18g.

Unless what the door hits is a projection and not a plane surface like a wall, another car door etc then the central rubbing strip will make contact rather than the door edge, if you look at the chamfer on the rear of it you will see that the angle has been carefully calculated. The same applies for someone else opening their door against your bodywork, it will invariably be their softer rubbing strip that makes contact. One notable and damaging exception is when I dismount to use a French péage , I have to park closer to the raised kerb on the right to have room to use the ticket machine, they have a sharp edge where they have been cut down so that doors of HGV's or big 4x4's can swing over them but not low enough for my vehicle and not high enough for the rubbing strip to hit them, they can leave a vicious scar on the lower section of the door. As for those metal spined rubber finishing strips NOOOOO!!!!! - DONT DO IT!

I think the leds might be illuminated all the time unless car is locked, I have been sat in the car at night with the lights and ignition off and they were still on otherwise I would not have been able to find the map light button. That said there are various timers on the lighting module, I cant see any logic in them being operative only when the headlights are turned on.

Anyone giving a MK1 the love it needs to keep it on the road whether it be a 90hp SDi or a VRS gets my vote and admiration

Yes, I bought and fitted a remapped "plug n play" ECU from Ebay, it looked like it had been opened so I removed the tamperproof fasteners to see if it had been resealed, it hadn't & was showing signs of corrosion, there were a few traces of the original sealant but large sections with nothing, I only had silicone to hand to bodge it with but at least it was then sealed. Had it looked undisturbed I would have left well alone, the manufacturers sealing is usually excellent and you dont want to break that seal if you can avoid it, I learnt that from opening others through curiosity. Its very well protected on the MQB platform cars, if the connector is good then there is nothing you can do inside other than cause additional problems, there are no connections to clean, its all flow soldered and covered with a conformal coating (think thats the right term). They are incredibly robust, I had one from a burnt out Galaxy that was calcinated with a molten blob of fused plastic and copper wire strands where it had been cut from the loom, by carefull dissection and cutting with a fine blade I managed to seperate & remove the loom part of the connector by undoing the ejection screw, what was left looked like it had been deep fried & then put in a camp fire overnight but after fitting a new loom & rewiring the vehicle it started the engine & operated perfectly, a Ford dealer friend uploaded the latest software to it and ran full diagnostics & I drove for 100Kmiles & 4 years with it.

Thankyou for the correction of terminology, the point being in either case is that the load is taken through the fastenings and not the central bore which has to be a clearance fit.

I take it all back It would be worth removing the connector and cleaning the terminals but you will need an agle grinder and a lot of dexterity to remove the shear head fasteners and wiggle the ECU out of the security cage or to get the connector apart.

I can give you chapter and verse regarding RHD to LHD conversions on older headlights with P45 (I think) dual element main & dipped beam bulbs but know nothing of the optics on projector headlights other than the ones on my MK2 Octavia were completely useless even with brand new LHD units. Editted, I can recall a significant detail now I have thought about it, there was a small shaped aluminium shield inside the units which masked the light output to give the correct dipped beam cut off, the LHD headlights had the same but a mirror image, had I been able to get them apart & modify it I am fairly sure it would have worked but as the light output was so pathetic I decided to buy the correct new ones as they were quite cheap. The output from them was just as crap, my Yeti with standard halogen headlights is a thousand times better.

Nope, its only a couple of mm, maybe even a very loose tolerance, wheels locate on, take the weight of the vehicle and transfer the drive through the conical bolt seatings. They are genuine Skoda steel wheels for the Yeti bought from this very forum!

And you cant really trust your mechanic either if he trots out the old line "it must be the ECU!" rather than say,"this one has got me puzzled, I need to look further, to try some other things" or "you really need to take it to someone more experienced in these matters than me".

Best not to look too deeply at where Superskoda source theirs from then.

I was dismissive of those studs but bought a pair so that I could give one to a neighbour who does a lot for me and keep the other for the box, which is what I really wanted to keep the locking wheelnut adaptor & the bolt cover removal tools all together and easily identifiable. Having used it I begrudgingly admit that it does make things considerably easier, removing 2 difficulties that I had: The winter wheels having a larger central bore were difficult to align. With my bad eyesight and looking level through the bolt holes for the tapped holes I would often mistake the blind holes in the hub carrier on the same pitch for the threaded ones. My apologies for telling Sticky Mickey that I had no need of one. The problem that I now have is getting the wheel onto the projecting pin, I would like it to be much shorter and to protrude only as far as needed for my fingers to grip the knurling, at present I have to bend over to place the wheel, I would prefer to be in my normal posture of sitting and lifting it with my shins.

Is there a switch in the centre console or elsewhere to lock/unlock the doors? Could this have had fluid spilt on it or could its action be gummed up by belly button fluff? Could you be placing your phone or something else on top of it?

If thats the worst that you currently have to contend with then consider yourself fortunate. I dont care what my headlights look like, its not as if I can see them when they are doing their job.

I dont understand your choice of title, surely that is a given?

I bet they would not be able to design an engine specially for me for my journey back from work. I live on site! I have also been coasting for the last year.

It probably wasn't. I had it on company Sierra XR4x4's and it was great, not had it on any car in the 30+ years since. My last 2 Skoda diesels have been the worst because of the slow warm up well explained earlier, I have been pleasantly surprised that the Yeti with its 2.0 common rail motor produces heat from the vents very early on by comparison, between 1 & 2 miles & gets up to full (indicated) temperature a lot quicker than the PD predecessor, must be something to do with the achilles heel sliding sleeve on the water pump.

Do you have a heated windscreen?

Assuming that the Yeti is the same then they provide some illumination of the gear lever area and being partially sighted I find them very usefull for guiding my finger to the buttons for the actual reading and interior light switches.

My cat doesn't know how to upload photos!

I wanted a tiny key to be able to hide in a convenient place (if I tell you where I would have to kill you!). If I do as you say the alarm sounds but is silenced when the ignition is turned on and the keychip recognized, trouble is that draws attention which is exactly what I am trying to avoid, I dont want people to see where I currently stash the keys, I have found a way to lock the car with the remote leaving a rear door open so I can put the keys inside and close the door which then deadlocks, anyone watching would not know about the hidden key as its only used to unlock, I want it to unlock but not start the vehicle and do not want the alarm to sound. If the programming for the 15 or 20 second delay would work I would have a solution to all my problems. I did not buy a remote key for reasons of price, its bulk and also the hidden valet key is also to be used if I lose my keys (the spare remote key is very well hidden somewhere else within the vehicle for that eventuality). When I have the energy to tackle the programming again I will start a seperate thread, the answer is there somewhere.

Advertising stopped informing about the vehicle decades ago, since then it has all been about lifestyle & aspirational "think how cool you will be if you owned one of these" etc, I am incandescent with rage whenever I see the advert with the youngsters driving around impossibly free of traffic city streets sending text messages to each other using the infotainment, I think it was for the Vauxhall Corsa. Now as you say its all about the (flawed) tech.

You have hit the nail on the head and to my chagrin it seems the majority of new car purchasers are willingly buying into the bull**** judging by the way the content of this forum has drastically changed over the last year or 18 months. It seems that many people are more interested in their social media than driving and would willingly let the car drive for them if it never disturbed them.