J.R.

Yes it needs to be reset, I dont think a basic OBDII reader will be able to do so, you need something that can communicate with the airbag control module like VCDS, others may confirm or correct that statement, I know that it can be done with VCDS.

20 minutes is enough for it to go into sleep mode, no harm in leaving it longer to be sure, but what is far more important is making the necessary preparations to be able to measure it without waking up the systems, unlocking the door to open the bonnet is enough, it will not go back into sleep mode with the bonnet open. A properly charged battery in good condition may show 12.3v if the vehicle systems are awake.

If it were me and I had doubts that it was a genuine NIP then I would just let it take its course and defend myself if the time came unless it was requesting any action on my part. T Paul RT, did the NIP request anything from yourself?

There is a setting for steering assist, I think the brake assist only functions if it senses you have stamped on the brake pedal hard & fast but within its logic not hard enough so unless the pressure sensor is playing up I dont think that is your problem, having said that if it measures the pedal travel instead or as well then it might interprete your long pedal as an emergency braking manouevre, I would try to get the bottom of what is causing the initial long pedal travel. I have experienced a similar braking effect to yours when I rebuilt a servo and the main piston seal (it was a large drum piston & not a diaphragm) was creating resistance and lag, I would brake gently and the car would not slow enough due to the lack of servo assistance, then brake harder at which point the servo would overbrake and the car would pull up short of the junction I was slowing for, it was a real pedal dance to compensate for it!!!

If as has been explained the EML's dont extinguish within a short while of driving then they will remain until read and cleared with VCDS or similar, its not a case of still appear by which I think you mean re-appear but of remaining. I would charge the battery, invest in a cheap voltmeter, have a VCDS scan done, if all the fault codes are of a similar nature, failure to communicate or low supply voltage then you can be fairly secure that the start up with a discharged battery is to blame, using the voltmeter to monitor the standby voltage over a period you can decide whether to change the battery or simply keep an eye on it as I do and drive the car when the voltage iss getting low, I have an LED voltmeter mounted on the centre console that I can read from outside without waking up the canbus network which will give a false low reading.

A good cheap car for someone. 2 years ago I was delighted to buy a 2006 Elegance Estate needing work for the MOT for £750, it had lower mileage, cant recall exactly but maybe 112000 miles, being over 100K made it less desirable to many but not to me. It only cost me £30 to repair, I registered it in France very cheaply (about £100) which included the equivalent of road tax for as long as I owned it, I drove it for 2 years and 20K miles and sold it for 3 times what I paid for it.

Wrong! For reasons unfathomable to me VAG made engines that will start with a significantly discharged or failing battery but communications between electronic modules that cannot.

Immobiliser not recognising the RF chip in the key. Were you by any chance using a different key to the usual?

What is wrong with an old school one that has an audible click and break torque action? I expect they will make a Bluetooth connected one next Editted, I have reading problems as well and did not take on board you speaking of the markings, I bet if I used my Norbar one again I would find its yet another thing I now find difficult to read.

Would you service a car that had been dropped off by trailer where the engine had thrown a rod? I am only speculating but customer finds that aircon is not working so asks for it to be serviced, they hook up the guages adnd find that the static pressure is OK so refrigerant charge is sufficient but the high side pressure does not rise when system is operated, = not working, their instruction was to service it and not diagnose the fault. If they had done the service as you advocate and told the customer that there was a fault, even if they could confidently say what it was the customer might swear blind that it was working perfectly before they serviced it.

Seasider was on the best track, I have retrofitted 2 vario-floors to an Octavia MK2 and a Yeti and in both cases I used a second hand variofloor from scrapped MK1 Octavia Estates which most had fitted as standard in those days. The width between the wheel arches is common to both Octavias and the Yeti and I am betting its the same in the Kamiq, you need to adjust the height of the side rails & fix them and if you are OCD like me change the rear profile to match the lofted curve of your vehicle, its all easy DIY woodwork. For the Yeti you simply use 2 out of the 3 sections, if you search the forum you will find a thread that I started with photos but once you have the second hand floor & side supports in front of you it will be obvious what needs doing.

Happy to oblige knowing that you will appreciate it: go for it" or "Jesus Christ don't do that you complete plonker"

Current set up What can happen when you use the wrong coupling! Ride height The ensemble

Gyms may be closed but people can still cycle outdoors against real resistances and inclines and consume real calories proportional to the real effort expended. 64 consecutive posts must be a record though.

I am guessing that the static pressure was above the threshold to shut down but the high side was not increasing when the A/C was switched on, they were right not to recharge it. An educated guess would be failure of the N280 modulating valve, shear plate failure on the pulley or the central splines stripped on the pulley, all of those would result in no cooling but no fault codes with a correctly charged system.

Ebay every time for me but then I usually go after vehicles with faults.

After googling I may have answered my own question, looks like there may be a 15 second alarm delay that can be programmed with VCDS, looks like the golf MK5 has it so I could be in luck!

My spare key I want to carry with the vehicle, its no use being miles away (or at present in another country) if I lose my keys, on my MK1 I kept it in a sealed bag hidden in the chassis, this time I wanted to protect it from the elements and also resolve another problem of hiding my keys when I go running from the clubhouse or a remote location. Currently I hide the keys behind the petrol filler flap but if there are people around trying to do it covertly simply attaracts attention. So I decided to have a plain key cut with no immobiliser chip, one that if found would open the vehicle but not start it and to have my spare key hidden within the vehicle, when running the intention was to lock my keys in the car in another hiding place, on my return retrieve the dumb key from its hiding place to get in the vehicle. First unforeseen problem was not being able to lock the keys in the car , eventually I found that I could lock the car with the remote while any passenger door (but not the drivers door) was open, put the keys inside then close the door & it would then deadlock with the others. The problem I now have is that when I return & open the drivers door manually with the dumb key it sets the alarm off , having played around and read the manual this will happen even if the proper key is used manually rather than using the remote control which is quite a surprise an would be a problem if & when the keyfob battery fails, I would hope that putting the RF chipped key in the ignition and switching on would silence the alarm. So my problem is how can I lock the car without setting the alarm? Preferably I would like the alarm to work at other times but if that is not a possibility then can just the siren be disabled via VCDS? The absolute best solution would be a siren delay. Any ideas welcomed!

Sorry, my mistake, I had skipped a paragraph.

You made no mention of this, if this is what was happening then its clear what the problem was, if there was no movement then I am confused by why you wrote the above.

Original factory bolt, no torque wrench, they only gets used for head bolts, main & big end bearing caps.

Buying a sump plug from the main stealer is really buying into the bull**** they put on the service invoices and their justification for it like the threads stretching I took my Octavia up to 500000kms with regular oil changes & it went to the scrapyard with the original sump plug & washer, had it ever leaked I would have replaced the washer, I dont think in all my years I have seen a leaking sump plug washer unless it or the sealing face were damaged.

My answer is no and I have never upgraded bios on my computer either.

Reminds me of when I was on day release at technical college, it was the days of furry dice & winscreen sunstrips with yours and your girlfriends name in large stick on letters. "CLIVE & PAT" used to get changed by us every week and we would even buy extra letters to get what we wanted, my favorites were "CLIT & APE" & "VILE PRAT"

Brexit ate my homework.