J.R.

No that is a problem that I am coming up against, I want to be able to unlock the door with a valet key (no immobiliser chip) as I will have hidden my main keyring inside the car, using any key even the remote control one manually will set off the alarm. It makes no difference if it is locked with the proper key or the valet key, the alarm gets set but can only be unlocked by the remote without setting off the siren, if anyone knows how to overcome this I would be really gratefull. I have programmed in a siren delay (Thatcham setting) in VCDS but it has not worked.

I had a similar experience, I wanted to change some settings for the alarm, according to Rosstech the module was number 46 IIRC central convenience, it was presented as one of the modules under the installation list where it only shows those fitted to your vehicle but I could not open it and got the same message as you. I could open all the other modules, however when I opened the Body control module (I think, I am relying on my poor memory) all the long coding and whatever the other coding shortcut is called were there for the alarm module and I could make the changes I wanted although they have made no difference. So it left me confused, I thought perhaps on my vehicle the comfort control module may have been a sub module of the body control module. VCDS always leaves me with more questions than answers.

How did you get it apart to look? I had to cut my old one apart to do an autopsy. An Octopus armed with 6 seperate pointed tools and a puller might be able to release the pressed together plastic assembly but I couldn't. And I'm betting if you had actually removed the master cylinder today for the first time you would not be talking so nonchalantly and your forearms would look like you had been self harming

I think mine has an alloy sump, I had to do the first oil change from the bottom (the 5/16" copper tube of my suction rig would not pass through the dipstick tube) had it been a plastic sump I would have thrown a rod before the engine had a chance to!

My Outdoor S spec model has the maxidot, if it isn't standard then its probably because it was a local authority vehicle (possibly forestry) and had bluetooth fitted so they could bend the ear of the driver!

assuming the 1.6 is no different to the 2.0 Tdi then its the connection between the flexible pipe leading to the clutch housing and the plastic tube of the concentric release bearing. Its adjacent to the gear linkage under the air filter housing and has a white knurled knob and vertical bleed nipple. If you remove the U duct between the inlet water snorkel (unclip the lid first) and the air filter housing you will probably see it, if not then remove the filter housing and all will be revealed. I have spent far too much time in that area over the last few weeks for similar as yet undiagnosed and probably unrelated problems, in the course of which I have learned all about its operation and the IMO dubious reasons for its existence. Basically you can declutch as fast as you can push the pedal to the floor the shuttle valve offers no resistance but when engaging the clutch it will only return at its own speed even if you sidestep the clutch, there is a tiny metered hole allowing the fluid to return and the master cylinder only has one seal and does not draw fresh fluid from a partial vacuum on the upstroke like a traditional one. I drilled mine out thinking that it was causing my problems and found that the throttle pick up between gearchanges was much faster with virtually no delay for the turbo spooling up, it was not the problem so I have refitted a standard unmodified one to avoid other possible problems. At the very least you should pressure bleed your system from this valve, if the fluid comes out black then you will have a failing master cylinder like I did, any of these particles could restrict the metered hole, indeed there is a high powered magnet on the end of the master cylinder piston which was covered in rubber like remains of my seal which must have had metallic composants in the mix. The clutch master cylinder on RHD models gets very hot from the DPF.

The proper Skoda touch up pens come with a bottle of base colour and one of clear, the lid of one is a needle scraper for the rust, the other the brush for the paint, they are actually worth the extra cost, I was still using the same one from 2005 up to last year on my second silver Skoda and then passed it on to my neighbour for his MK3 which was still the same colour, it needed a tiny drop of thinners in all that time. It will probably serve for 20 years!!!!

H20 and not coolant. It will be the condensate drain from the evaporator. Are you saying that last summer the whole cooling system would empty every few days, that no work was done and the problem went away all on its own? Or were you perhaps just topping up the expansion tank, maybe overfilling or possibly after some engine work where coolant will have been released?

You have certainly given that the good news I dont think you are the first though as there are traces of rust coming from some of the chipped areas and others where the primer looks to have been exposed for some time.

The clutch will of course slip at the bottom of the pedal travel, it should not do so when your foot is off the pedal, if its worn then it will manifect in top gear first. You should be able to feel it or see it on the rev counter, another indication would be the gear indicator on the maxidot changing to a lower ratio than the one you have actually selected. Editted, I misread your posting, you said just before release. There is a plastic bleed block called a peak torque limiter because it actually slows the release of the clutch and resumption of turbo boost, its intended to protect the drive train from traffic light grand prix starts, the tiny orifice could have become blocked by a particle which would explain all of your symptoms, its a cheap and easy repair to have done before you accept the labour charge of replacing the DMF and clutch.

If you were of my generation you would never jack a car on the sills unless there was absolutely no other option, the sickening crunch and shower of flakey crusty oxidised crud that was once called metal remains with you for life. Every VAG car I have owned has already had the sill bottoms destroyed by trolley jacks with the seams split, rolled over & rusting before I got my hands on it, even a slotted rubber puck does not protect unless it has been machined with a stepped surface. But there is no real choice for the jack if you want to also use an axle stand.

A warm engine, tickover downhill & then part throttle in 2nd & 3rd gear for 1/4 mile................ You will probably be OK especially if what you saw was remaining oil pouring out & not draining from the undertray. Hopefully the smoke was oil on the exhaust. Did the engine sound tappetty while running? If not then you certainly had some oil circulation. I expect you will need a new undertray as well as the sump, you might be really lucky and find that it was the level sensor that was damaged & not the sump

Its definitely a lot safer, the problem is finding somewhere to jack and somewhere to place the axle stand if like me (mild OCD) you dont want to jack up on the sill, but that is the case whether you jack up on one side or both.

Modern oil pumps are superb compared to the days of X/flow Fords etc but on the other hand modren oils are very thin resulting in on the face of it crazy measures like not monitoring under 1500 rpm which does actually make sense when you think about it. A change to the thinner oil might actually be a quick and crude method of diagnosing the issue if it makes any change, if the problem gets worse the Sepulchraves suggestion of bearing wear (or a knackered pump) is most likely, if it improves but is still present then it could be a blocked strainer.

More likely to be a pick up pipe/strainer problem given the symptoms, worn main bearings are not going to lose pressure dramatically under acceleration after gentle braking. Definitely check that the correct filter is fitted, try replacing the oil pressure switch and then inspect/replace the oil pump paying particular attention to the pick up pipe & gauze strainer.

When I notice that the camera image is blurry I just wipe my finger over the lens when I leave the car or before getting in, its a tiny spec of grime and I certainly would not pollute the planet with a wet wipe. As for a washer jet, even a Karcher will not remove road dirt from windows without using a sponge or cloth, how well could you see out of your windscreen if you used the washers without the wipers?

No the BCM can be programmed so that key operation does the same as remote, it might be that it has to be the same, I no longer have a MK2 to check but I think that I deactivated the global opening (all doors unlocked plus windows wound down) because I was finding the windows open after cleaning the appartments (bending over with keys in pocket) but could still use the feature when desired on a hot day by manually using the key, I definitely have done that on the Yeti. I used VCDS to make the changes. Using the key manually will operate the electronic systems.

I use 2 jacks & stands for stability (sloping drive) but to worry about overstressing the structure? You would have to carry a bootfull of caravan levelling blocks and stop everytime you come near a single lump in the road and place one for the other wheel to drive over.

No, I get where you are coming from, I have sight deficiency and its particularly noticable when night driving, the headlights on the video do look excellent and but for your bad reporting it would be something I could aspire to, however I get very dazzled by oncoming headlights, it really is a problem for me and the old badly maintained cars are suprisingly the minority of the offenders, its the LED and Xenon lamps that are the majority and by far the worst. I could not drive your car at night, firstly through empathy for the oncoming drivers but also because their flashing would dazzle me, I have to ask again can they not be used in the traditional manner? If not then they should be withdrawn IMO. No its not being unreasonable to expect your vehicle to do what its claimed to do but perhaps, in hindsight, its not wise to be seduced by the expectation of a vehicle taking care of the tasks that for the present an attentive driver is far more capable of doing and the victims are not just the purchaser but every oncoming motorist.

Cant be done I would be delighted to be proved wrong on this one and would do it like a shot. I programmed mine to display in KMS as I live in France, if its only kms that cannot have a larger display ignore the above and accept my apologies.

Was that on dip or main beam? If the latter and the system is supposed to dip automatically or adapt the matrix do you have the facility to manually dip if the system doesn't? I feel sorry for the oncoming drivers in that video clip but realise it was the garage and not you driving. I understand that you have paid a lot (more than 95% of my vehicles have ever cost) for a feature that doesn't work but do you really want to reject a car because you have to manually dip the headlights? Surely you would do that for pedestrians anyway? Would a refund of the money you paid for the feature which is not fit for the purpose not be an acceptable outcome? Your vehicle would appear to be fit for its purpose, its the gimmicks that aren't, I totally understand when you have to pay for said gimmicks although for £1600 I will continue with old school, -setting my lights according to the situation ahead of me.

I wonder if TPS have that facility? I will ask next time.

Having changed a clutch master cylinder recently I reckon the white plastic clip which attaches the ball end of the cylinder pushrod may not be properly clipped into the pedal, its a pig of a job to do, and would give the sound and feel that you describe, it may even have popped out. If its a pulsing proportional to engine speed then definitely clutch release bearing or maybe the Sachs pressure plate fingers letting go.

AKA incontinence or prostate wipe! Its when after having used the wash wipe facility the nozzle dribbles liquid on the windscreen 20 seconds later, the teardrop wipe happens after a delay to mop up the mess, essential for us OCD sufferers!

What did you do to clear the fault code for the side airbag? - It will not have been related to your door controller and usually requires the fault attending to (it may well be an intermittent bad contact on the underseat connector) and the code removing with VCDS. For the intermittent comms with the door controller you need to look at the wires within the door loop gaiter, 10 - 1 that is where your fault lies and I bet the drivers side has already been repaired if the car has previous owners, it would be worth checking that it has not been bodged.